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Newbee with a Wilton 450S...

Asmoday

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Aug 30, 2010
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This is my first post on this forum..:)

I have been lurking here for a while since I wanted to pick up a vise for a new reloading bench. I mainly will be using the vise to torque barrels so I wanted to find something stout. I always lean towards old vintage tools and so the quest was on...LOL. I finally located a manufacture date 9-78 Wilton 450S over the weekend locally and since I was building the new bench all weekend I did not start the dis-assembly till today.

I'm happy with my find and have already sourced a new set of steel jaws as well as the swivel base assembly from an online vendor back east...:thumbup:

Now...first off I am really **** when it come to my projects...:lol_hitti. I want to restore the vise to pristine condition since it will be used solely for precision weapon building applications on the reloading bench and it's inside the house in a nice office. I fly helicopters for a living so have available the following in the maintenance facility...media blaster, sand blaster and hot tank.

I have been pondering the above methods to remove the light rust and paint as well as Electrolysis Rust Removal. The vise is not in too bad off shape but it has been used over the years pretty well. Here is the vise apart today...
Wilton450S.jpg


So...my first question is what seems to be the best overall method for a vise in the condition such as mine? I like the idea of the Electrolysis method and have read up quite a bit on it with reference to effectiveness and the possibility of brittleness which I understand can be eliminated if the items are put in an oven for a couple of hours although I'm not sure at what temp. I do need to remove quite a bit of grease and gunk as well.

I want to finish it in black gloss with white lettering...

Is the flash rust after Electrolysis Rust Removal an issue? Do I need to spray with some type of rust inhibitor right away before I bake it? After which I would paint.

mjozefow did a vise in black with white raised lettering which is exactly what I want to do so maybe he can educate me on the primer and clear coat he used with the hammer tone black on his Charles Parker vise restoration...:drool: or what clear coats and primer out of a can would be compatible with the hammer tone black.

Thanks...!
 
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mjozefow

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Did you see the link in my sig?

I used Rustoleum primer, hammertone, and clear. All are available at Menards or Home Depot or Lowes.

I'm glad you liked my Parker resto!

PS- I prefer sandblasting vs other methods. Just protect any sliding or threaded parts and clean thoroughly.
 
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Asmoday

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Aug 30, 2010
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I did see the link ....:) But I thought I read that you used auto primer. Sorry..my mistake. Yes...I have read many of your threads and they are great!

I was under the impression that sandblasting removes a bit of material and I don't want to soften the lettering.

Did you do anything about the flash rust or did you just wipe it down and primer it? We tend to wipe heli components down with MEK then shoot them with primer or paint..etc.

That Parker resto is really nice!
 

Davefr

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Jan 7, 2010
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I just restored a Wilton vise. Here's my process:

1. Dunk every piece part in a 5 gallon pail of Berryman B-9 Chem Dip for a few hours.
2. Rinse
3. Power brush every piece part. (grinder w/course wire brush or maybe a die grinder w/brush)
4. Clean with prep sol. and prime as soon as the prep sol is dry so surface rust won't set in. Mask the areas you don't want painted and then spray with your choice of paint.
5. On the jaws, screw, handle, cylinder, etc I spray them with a light coat of clear lacquer.
 
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Asmoday

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Aug 30, 2010
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6
Davefr thanks for the info..! Do you have a paint brand recommendation for the clear lacquer?
 

autopts71045

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Apr 19, 2010
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I think if you have 10 responses, you will have 10 different ways to meet the end. I've got a 5000 rpm HD hand grinder. I put on a double 8" fine brass wire wheel and gently remove whatever loose paint and grit that there is. I give it a bath in Brake Clean and once I know its clean, I paint it. Thats it.
 
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mjozefow

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Davefr thanks for the info..! Do you have a paint brand recommendation for the clear lacquer?

I like rustoleum brand. It might not be the best, but it is easy to find and apply, with great results.

As much as I like to over complicate things, it is a hunk of cast iron, not a chopper. You will be fine if you take care to do things logically.

Sandblasting will only remove lettering and such if you blast the sh** out of the vise. I turn the pressure down and do only what is needed. You need a good base for paint, not really a perfect shine.

PS- Take the back cap off that thing before doing anything else. Drive the pins equally towards the center and it will slide out.
 
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Asmoday

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Aug 30, 2010
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6
I've used the POR-15 products quite a bit. Their Marine Clean stuff is the bomb for cleaning fuel tanks that have had bad fuel sit for a long time and it does not hurt paint...Great stuff...:thumbup:
 
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