Newbie here...Garage Design Feedback!

[Awitte58]

Hello everyone! It has been a while. We've finally settled into a long-term home and I am building my first garage!
We got a quote a few years ago and finally have saved enough(hopefully) to build it.

Goal: Complete construction by Thanksgiving 2024. I am wanting to get this design finalized by Thanksgiving 2023. The image is from the quote I had done.
Does anyone on here do drawings/renderings? (unsure if people are allowed to offer up their services...maybe message me?)
I am able bodied and have some self-employed friends in concrete, electrical and the carpentry trades, so I may GC this project.
I would need drawings for permitting with my city so I would need help drafting this up. I am also a nerd and would like to create a material list.
Has anyone used Upwork before?

Below I have laid out my description of what I want and *sprinkled* in some thoughts/questions(in bold) I'd appreciate your feedback on! TIA
I am a construction rookie, so PLEASE correct/educate me on the correct terminology. I learned my terms from Google. lol

Primary Use: Woodshop / Hobby Shop.
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin USA

Details:
The South and North walls 30' wide. The East and West walls 28' deep.

Foundation / garage floor is to be poured concrete. Unsure how to spec/describe this any further.

10' from the concrete floor to the bottom of the ceiling joist / rafter ties. Are ceiling joists the same thing as rafter ties?
Walls are to be 2”x4” construction with 16” O.C.

Hip Style roof with 4/12 pitch. The Ridge Beam is not to exceed 15' in height(city restriction).
Ceiling Joists / Rafter ties and Collar ties are to be spaced 4’ on center. Is that the correct spacing?
12" overhang on all 4 sides.
Do you need both rafter ties and collar ties for a structure like this? I have no idea what static/dynamic load requirements would be for this...
Can you span 28' without needing a center wall or posts? Are 2x10s or 2x12s able to accomplish that or do we need an LVL beam or similar?

30 year dimensional shingle roof.
Aluminum soffit, fascia, door, and window trim.
5" seamless aluminum gutters with 4" downspouts.

Two 10' wide x 8' tall garage doors. One on the South Wall and one on the North Wall. The East-most side of the garage doors is to be 4' from the East wall.
I am picturing the most common insulated garage doors with tracks and motors. Anyone have links to alternatives that don't require mounting tracks? I would prefer not to lose the headroom from the door tracks if possible but price will weigh in on that decision.

One 36" man door is to be on the East Wall. The door is to be oriented as shown in the reference image and is to be placed 18’ from the South wall.
Two 24” wide x 36” tall double hung windows are to be placed on the South wall. Located 16' and 20' from the East wall, respectively.

A 100 amp ‘Square D’ style electrical panel(~ 26” tall x 14.25” wide x 4” deep) is to be placed on the North wall approximately 2’ from the East Wall. Trenching of ~50' to home is needed.

I plan to have the 100amp panel installed, but I will handle installing all other circuits.
I plan to have the structure completed to the point of being waterproof and I will insulate the ceilings and walls.
I think drywall with the electrical in the walls rather than conduit mounted to the walls will be nicer. I know conduit can be easily changed... Any thoughts on drywall vs OSB?

Heating/Cooling:
Can I get away with a ductless mini-split system for this size of space? I know some mini-splits can heat down to -13F.
Anyone on here able to help with a calculation(or link me to their preferred website)?
I'd prefer one head unit on the wall and one outdoor unit.

Concrete shall fill between the garage and home. From the South wall to the North wall. We are not doing the patio off of the back of the garage.
The concrete driveway shall start 14' from the West wall and connect to the existing driveway. Similar to the reference drawing it will extend ~13’ out from the South wall and then curve towards the existing driveway.

 

[duneslider]

Will the city let you build that close to your existing house? Every city is different but that is too close in my city.

You may want to find out what your city requires for drawings, I am guessing you will need engineer stamped drawings for this. You may want to start finding an engineer as that can be tough. Drawings are easy to do.

You also may not be able to get away with 2x4's, most places are wanting to see 2x6's nowadays, even in garages. Your city should have a website with their requirements listed. Or a visit to the building department might be needed. Many are good to help with homeowners doing it themselves.

 

[Stuart in MN]

You said 28' in your description but the drawing shows 24'. In any case, typical construction would use trusses instead of rafters and rafter ties, and there should be no issue with clear span on either dimension.

 

[CraigStu]

Our garage is 28deep x32wide. Standard trusses span the 28 no problem. Unless you absolutely have to have that style roof, standard trusses will be much less expensive. The front wall w/ the two doors may be a problem. Not sure of code for your area but you have 30ft minus 8ft minus 16ft which leaves just 6ft for the three wall sections which may not be enough. BTW can you go back and make your drawing and description match. Garage door sizes, 28 vs 24 depth, windows on the south wall that is already filled w/ garage doors, etc.

 

[rancherbill]

Can you span 28' without needing a center wall or posts? easy peasy

Are 2x10s or 2x12s able to accomplish that or do we need an LVL beam or similar? Buy prebuilt trusses

I am picturing the most common insulated garage doors with tracks and motors. Anyone have links to alternatives that don't require mounting tracks? I would prefer not to lose the headroom from the door tracks if possible but price will weigh in on that decision. You can order a high lift track package to have the door go higher with a wall mounted door opener.

I think drywall with the electrical in the walls rather than conduit mounted to the walls will be nicer. I know conduit can be easily changed... Any thoughts on drywall vs OSB? I like drywall it looks nice and it is brighter - you cannot have too much light.

Heating/Cooling:
Can I get away with a ductless mini-split system for this size of space? I know some mini-splits can heat down to -13F.
You have to do a heat loss calculation for sizing. It is not hard you just put in your dimensions and it is done. Get 2x6 walls because you will save the money back on material from savings buying a bigger heater and air conditioner.

 

[Awitte58]

Will the city let you build that close to your existing house? Every city is different but that is too close in my city.

You may want to find out what your city requires for drawings, I am guessing you will need engineer stamped drawings for this. You may want to start finding an engineer as that can be tough. Drawings are easy to do.

You also may not be able to get away with 2x4's, most places are wanting to see 2x6's nowadays, even in garages. Your city should have a website with their requirements listed. Or a visit to the building department might be needed. Many are good to help with homeowners doing it themselves.

Yes they will allow that setback from the house. The drawing is an image from a quote from a local garage builder. My neighbor has the exact garage in the image. I had them quote me that just to get an idea on ballpark cost. That is why the drawing doesn't match my description. I don't have the ability to edit the drawing and I don't want to waste their time doing revisions until I know exactly what I want.

Our garage is 28deep x32wide. Standard trusses span the 28 no problem. Unless you absolutely have to have that style roof, standard trusses will be much less expensive. The front wall w/ the two doors may be a problem. Not sure of code for your area but you have 30ft minus 8ft minus 16ft which leaves just 6ft for the three wall sections which may not be enough. BTW can you go back and make your drawing and description match. Garage door sizes, 28 vs 24 depth, windows on the south wall that is already filled w/ garage doors, etc.

We have a height restriction in our area. The peak cannot exceed the peak of our house. My house is a ranch with 15' peak.
The hip style roof is what our home construction has. I am unsure if there is a restriction on the style of roof. I hope not! lol

thanks all for the feedback. I am definitely researching the high lift track products.

 

[ddurrett896]

Any reason you are doing a hip roof instead of a gable? A building that size will give you pretty minimal attic storage with a hip.

Make the garage doors 8' tall instead of 7'...can't even get a lift golf cart in a 7' door. I would also flip the 8' wide and 16' wide doors. That little bit of driveway on the left makes for a tight turn into the 8' door.

On the south wall, instead of running a header for each garage door, I'd run a 30' long LVL that connects to the W and E wall.

Last is there no way to tie into your home? Nice to be able to go between the house and garage without going outside.