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Newbie here, with new garage

BowtieNut

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Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
Hello all. Just wanted to start out by saying, wow, what an excellent site! I wish I would have found this months ago. I can't beleive all the knowledge/info here. I've been spending alot of my summer working on my new garage, so I thought I might as well post some info about it here. I'm actually in the middle-to-end stages of it now.

It is 28' wide by 48' deep with 10' walls. It is divided into 2 rooms, one being a 28' wide x 34' deep "shop" area in front, and in the back is a 28w x 14d storage/dirty area. All 2x6 walls, with one row of concrete block around the bottom (3 rows on the left side where the ground is a little higher), and manufactured roof trusses. Outside is vinyl siding, and aluminum soffit & fascia (to match the house). The front has two 10w x 8h overhead steel insulated doors into the shop area. In the right wall, way towards the back, there is a 9x8 door into the storage area, and in the back wall, way towards the left, is an 8x7 door into the storage area. The left wall has a 3' people door into the shop area, and the dividing wall has a people door from the shop area to the storage area. Oh, and it will have in-floor hydronic radiant heat with a natural gas boiler. That all sounds kinda confusing, but hopefully I explained it okay.

I have a friend who's a contractor who helped me with the shell, and I'll finish everything else myself. As it stands right now, the exterior is pretty much done, and the interior is maybe half done. All the wiring for outlets & lights are roughed in, and the the ceiling is sheetrocked, cuz I wanted that done before the garage doors went in. I'm not sure if it will be fully insulated and/or heated by this winter, but hopefully before too long. Right now I'm working on insulating the walls with R19 fiberglass, and then I'll blow cellulose in 12" deep above the ceiling. For electrical, I have 200 amp service to the house, so I ran 100 amps out to the garage, which I finished last week. I threw a few early pics up on my geocities site, and you can see them here if you want. http://www.geocities.com/dlhanson.rm/Garage.html
Doesn't look like too much yet though. Towards the end I got pretty lazy about taking pics, so they're outdated by a couple months. I'll have to get some updated ones up soon.

I'm sure I'm probably forgetting some important details, but that's all I can think of for now. Any questions, suggestions, advice, or (constructive) critisizm are welcome.
 
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BowtieNut

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Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
Here's the most recent pic I have. Like I said, a little out of date, but it's all I have for now.
 

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BowtieNut

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Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
Oh, and I do CAD for a living, so I threw together a quick drawing to try to better show the layout. The X's & O's in the middle are just where all the fluorescent & regular lights are going to be.
 

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lip277

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Joined
Jun 13, 2005
Messages
51
Location
Seattle
Looks good.

Question - Why not a single door in the front instead of two smaller doors? (Just curious - I have always favored a single double wide door...)
 
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BowtieNut

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Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
In my previous garage I had a single 16x8 door, and it was just too flimsy. When the wind would really blow against it, it would flex a little, and air would blow into the garage. It wasn't terrible, but here in MN I have to use the heat 5-6 months out of the year, so it adds up. Granted, that 16x8 was about the cheapest insulated door I could buy, so I'm sure that didn't help either. But this time I thought I'd try the two smaller doors instead to see if it helps. And I got FAR better quality doors, so hopefully that will help too.
 

DaveL.

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Joined
May 26, 2005
Messages
337
Location
Pennsylvania,HBG area
That will be a nice shop for you. I was looking at your building pictures and was curious,is that foundation just a slab or did you use a footer?
Welcome!!

Dave
 
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BowtieNut

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Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
MacTexas said:
How many Bowties do you have to put in your new garage?

Currently 5.
-'89 S-10 Blazer (2wd, black, 2dr, EFI 383 V-8, lowered a little)
-'85 S-10 Blazer (4wd, black, 2dr, EFI 350 V-8)
-'99 Tahoe (4wd, 4dr, stock)
-'97 S-10 pickup (2wd ext cab, stock)
-'77 Blazer (4wd lifted, 35" tires, just for playing)

-'01 Bonneville (wife's)
 
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BowtieNut

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Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
DaveL. said:
That will be a nice shop for you. I was looking at your building pictures and was curious,is that foundation just a slab or did you use a footer?
Welcome!!

Dave

Yeah, just a slab. Not sure how it goes elsewhere, but around here it only needs footings if it's attached to the house I guess. So it's just a 4" slab in the middle, and goes to 8" thick for 12" around the perimeter, with 2 rows of rebar around the thicker 8" part.

Also, I don't know if it's mandatory, but highly recommended with the in floor heat, but I also put 2" thick Type 250 foam insulation under the entire slab, and wrapping around the sides to the top of the blocks. Then we wrapped the side foam with aluminum to match the fascia, so the pretty pink insulation doesn't show.
 
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BowtieNut

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Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
spud said:

Yeah, there's a half-moon shaped window in the top of the person door. All I wanted was some way to tell from the house if I left the lights on or not. Obviously this is just my opinion, but I think the light they provide, is not worth the heat they lose or the increased security risk. I know, by buying good quality windows, and placing them up high, those two things can be minimized, but I still decided they weren't worth the extra money. In my last workshop garage (half this size) I had two 2x3 windows, and they really didn't provide enough light to be useful. I still had to turn on all the lights if I was working out there during the day.
 

Kuhlryde

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Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
103
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Just curious....what exactly will the floor heating do? Just keep the floor from becoming ice? What will that do to your electric bill?
 
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