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Newbie in Oregon converting pole barn to workshop

Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Portland, Oregon, metro area
Hi there, newbie here.

My zoning is Agricultural, pleasantly few restrictions on anything.

Smallish house, no garage. 8 X 12 building in the back yard with electricity, dried in with sheetrock...was the former owner's children's playhouse. I have an electronics repair bench, most of my spare parts inventory, and a tiny spot for practicing keyboards. It's not enough.

About 300 feet from the house is a pole barn. About 40X50 feet. Dirt floor. Uprights are 6x6. There are a few uprights in the middle, but not many. A 2x4 wall splits it into a 30X40 and 20x40 section. The wall could be removed. Former owners used the larger side for goats and chickens, the smaller size to store lawn implements and do maintenance. There's an elevated 15X15 foot platform - about 18 inches off the dirt - where they stored stuff, but the decking is rotted out, so I don't think it's usable. Educated guess says the structure is 16 feet high at the eaves and 22 feet high at the peak. All aluminum siding and roof. Roof leaks a bit, probably some of those rubber-gasketed screw gaskets have rotted? Currently it has two large sliding doors and a single person-sized door.

I want to convert this to a shop. I've never done anything like this. I am willing to do some of the work, but not sure which parts to take on. I can do wiring of any sort, am relatively handy with framing and plumbing, tolerable at sheetrocking, useless for cabinetry and doors.

What are the big questions I have to answer?

* Pour a concrete floor or replace and expand the wooden deck-style floor? Pros and cons of each?

* What to do for walls? I fear sheetrock would hide leaks until they're too late, is there a way around this? Do I sheetrock inside the existing aluminum siding? Between the dirty interior of the siding and dirt floor, it's incredibly difficult to create enough light inside to do any work...so I'm thinking white-painted sheetrock.

* How much need I know now about expected functions?

--I DIY vehicle maintenance, but only easy stuff - oil changes, door/panel lube, buff/wax. I will never need a lift, but I do want a compressor. I currently have no place to work on cars except on the gravel driveway
--I do not plan to store garden tools here. It's where they are now, but I don't want the smell of gasoline and grass clippings in the shop, so I figure on building a separate storage structure for the riding mower, et al.
--Electronics is still a main activity...a 3x8 bench and about the equiv for parts storage. However, I'm moving from strictly electronics to electronics/acoustics, and will need a big enough space to fabricate prototpyes of large loudspeaker cabinets.
--I need to add basic metal working with brake, press, roll, drill press and similar. Unlikely that I will ever need a lathe or mill.
--Basic woodworking with table saw, router table, maybe jointer but unlikely...primarily for the loudspeakers, but also for DIY home upgrades, etc.
--For working on vehicles, I'm contemplating somehow sealing a corner from the rest of it to avoid vapors throughout the building, but this may be overkill
--Ability to erect temporary paint booth..not for cars, but for the occasional surplus office cabinet, etc, that needs to be re-done.
--Place for a band to practice...may be shared with another function.

It'd be nice to have some form of plumbing in the building, but the septic/leech field is 300 feet away...if I add a bathroom or anything with a drain, I probably need to permit another septic/leech field.

I don't have a budget at this time. If it was $20k, I'd start tomorrow, if it was $100k, I'd ask what can I cut out to reduce the costs.

Thanks!
 
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larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,886
Location
oregon
The first thing I would do is advise you to check the poles. If this building is 25 years old then you could be starting to experience rot below the soil line. I would also suggest that you check out a couple of the roof leaks. If this is truly AL material then the movement of the building could be tearing the material around the screws causing leaks and failure of the roof.

Give us some pictures of the inside structure as well as the size of the purlins.

lg
no neat sig line
 
OP
G
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Portland, Oregon, metro area
The first thing I would do is advise you to check the poles. If this building is 25 years old then you could be starting to experience rot below the soil line. I would also suggest that you check out a couple of the roof leaks. If this is truly AL material then the movement of the building could be tearing the material around the screws causing leaks and failure of the roof.

Give us some pictures of the inside structure as well as the size of the purlins.

lg
no neat sig line

First off, you have a VERY neat sig line, love the Dale Carnegie quote.

But - seriously - 25 years? If that's all the building is good for, then is it even worth considering turning it into a shop? Or, is there a way to replace those uprights in the event that they are rotting?

I admit I've been assuming Al for the siding and roof - is it possible that it's steel?

I'll get those photos as soon as there's enough light to do so.

Purlins aren't visible: they're covered by insulation. I'll see if I can get up there and move insulation aside.

Thanks!
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,886
Location
oregon
Most likely you metal is steel and a integral part of the structure. Even so if not enough screws were use the building moves and tears out the hole under the screw head.

You do not say if the poles are treated and therefore more subject to rot. If an old farmer built it on the cheap then you may have nothing PT in the building. So 25 years may have done in the posts. YOU need to confirm this before you add a bunch of dollars into a building that is on its last legs.

I ask about perlins when I should have said girts. but both should be looked at to confirm in good shape and of sufficient size for the C/C distance they are at.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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OP
G
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Portland, Oregon, metro area
OK, I went out and did more detail work.

Posts are PT. According to land docs, barn was built circa 1993. Looks like PT 6X6 posts. The one swinging door had added 4X4 PT to create a frame and plate for the threshold.

2X6 girts on 27" centers, four high, topped with what appears to be 24" of translucent fiberglass, making the walls 12 feet high. Didn't measure the peak, but probably 20 feet.

Roof purlins appear to be 2X4, 24" OC.

Looking at the roof metal, I'd say it's not aluminum. There are two large Doug Firs dangling above the barn - both will come down before I depend on this being much of a shop. They have dropped many branches over the 9 years we've been here, two of which penetrated that metal roof. If those panels were aluminum, they'd be far more beat up. The siding is clearly too strong to be aluminum.

There's wiring in the building, but it looks awful so I'd rip it out. And there's no live service currently, either. Also present are animal cages, chicken coop, etc, that will come out.

I took photos, will post as soon as I understand this forum's method for doing so.

GBS
 

REKIII

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Messages
102
Location
Wisconsin
Hi There GBS.

Sounds like a neat project. I converted what sounds like a very similar building, except mine was 40x60 and a lot newer.

Here is my thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327425

Some thoughts, Definitely pour a slab. A wood floor will just rot again and gives a great space for critters to live. You can also reinforce the walls to the slab if your posts become bad.
Since you have an ag class building (like mine) you need to be aware of what you hang on the walls and ceiling. Sheetrocking the whole thing will add a TON of weight. I sprayfoamed mine to give it some strength, then painted the upper section white to make sure I didn't want to add some sort of ceiling later. The sprayfoam will also seal the building tight.

Good luck on the shop, it will be worth it.
 
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