newbie looking for aprox electrical costs ?$$$

[t500hps]

I've finally decided to build a pole-barn/garage and have been an avid contributor on several boating forums.....I just knew I'd find one for garages!!!!

I've talked to several companies about building a 30 x 50, 14 ft walls, (2) 12 x 12 doors with 4/12 roof. What I want is corrugated metal but my neighborhood is likely going to require vinyl siding and shingles. I have estimates either way but there is an aprox $10K price difference . I have also collected concrete prices and feel I have a good handle on what that will cost......but what about electrical?????

My company uses an electrician but he usually only does commercial. He will help me do the garage and guessed $6-7K to wire it....really???? I'm looking to come out of my 200A at the house aprox 100 ft to a 100A in the garage. Run 110's all around the 3 walls with a number of flouresent lights and probably a 220A for a welder. Can anyone give me an educated guess to what this should cost me?

 

[green.bubbly]

I can't help you with the electrical costs but I would like to warn you about the concrete. Make sure when you are getting estimates that they include the labor, concrete and the rebar/mesh and wood. Good luck.

 

[t500hps]

I can't help you with the electrical costs but I would like to warn you about the concrete. Make sure when you are getting estimates that they include the labor, concrete and the rebar/mesh and wood. Good luck.

Thanks, the guys that will likely do the work have done a number of additions/projects for my business (nearly 1MM over 15 years)....I expect they won't try to screw me over on a little garage floor job. The electricians we use simply don't do residential and although they will likely do the work, they couldn't give me a decent guess.

 

[oleguy]

12-2 romex is 80-100 250'roll.so with panel and breakers,feeder from 200 amp panel to gar,conduit,boxes,fixtures and the rest 10k.

 

[bczygan]

I've finally decided to build a pole-barn/garage and have been an avid contributor on several boating forums.....I just knew I'd find one for garages!!!!

I've talked to several companies about building a 30 x 50, 14 ft walls, (2) 12 x 12 doors with 4/12 roof. What I want is corrugated metal but my neighborhood is likely going to require vinyl siding and shingles.

Do you have a homeowners association that requires this?

I have estimates either way but there is an aprox $10K price difference . I have also collected concrete prices and feel I have a good handle on what that will cost......but what about electrical?????

My company uses an electrician but he usually only does commercial. He will help me do the garage and guessed $6-7K to wire it....really???? I'm looking to come out of my 200A at the house aprox 100 ft to a 100A in the garage. Run 110's all around the 3 walls with a number of flouresent lights and probably a 220A for a welder. Can anyone give me an educated guess to what this should cost me?

An educated guess isn't worth anything. You need an itemized bid from at least 3 qualified contractors, based on an exact description of the work to be done. This description should specify exactly the quantity and quality of materials including brand names and model numbers. It should include all the associated work and include all permits, taxes and insurance. Each bid should be completely itemized and include the contractors overhead and profit. Only then can you adjust each bid to come up with a comparison that is apples to apples. This will also ensure you have included all the items necessary to complete ALL the needed work. This process will give you a useful number. Everything else is a wild assed guess and pretty worthless. Get your electrician to do this for a preliminary idea, but get 2 more to keep him honest.

.............................................

 

[mrb]

dont start building and then bring in the electrician later. everyone needs to be on the project from the beginning, and someone has to make sure the ufer ground is done and inspected before concrete is poured.

have the contractors pull the permits. dont go get an owner builder permit then hire contractors to do the work.

check licenses and insurance of anyone you hire

 

[Climber]

I don't want to start lesson "How to become General Contractor".
Here are some suggestions:
1. Reconsider about 12' height doors. If you want to bring box truck you stuck. By adding 2' (total 14') you don't have any restrictions what to bring inside. Any think legal on road can fit in.
2. Don't go 100 Amp . Get 200 Amp. Here is why: you are welding, fan is working, lights are on, compressor kicks in ... You are already over 100 Amp.
3. If you are in cold weather area: Think about putting radiant heat into slab.

Draw the plan, make copies. Use one of the copy to draw ALL your electical layout: wires, outlets, compressor wiring, 220V outlets, Switches for lights (i'd go for 4 light zone switches) etc. etc. ...

Rough, I'd say you are looking into $1,500- $2,000 for material, 20-30 man/hour labor (usually $50/hour), Check if your local code allows you to do electrician work. It not too complex.

Please do your self favor, follow simple rule:
Payment:
!!! Never ever pay ANY THINK upfront. No deposit, no "I need $1,000 for material". NOTHING UPFRONT!!! I've seen contractor ruin material and walk away with deposit.
Contract:
!!! Every think in writing. No assumptions. Down to simple details like " 3 rolls on each side of "Ice&Water" shield from Lowes Item # 865-86756."
Legality:
Every think up to code. Your town inspector is on your side. The contractors will be gone. Your building will stay with you
Personal:
Any one comes onto your property must be interviewed. First and Last name, Address (No PO Box), driver license #. If you have kids, make sure not to bring any *** offenders. You can check in local Police Department.
Insurance:
ALL Contractors insurance MUST be checked with insurance agency NOT just
- do you have insurance?
- yes I do
- OK come and work.
You NEED to call to insurance agent and enplane your project and verify you are fully covered.
Were is few details about insurances you need to consider:
1. General Liability - protects you and your property from accidental damages by contractor. For example his truck ruin your driveway.
2. Product Liability - protects you from damages caused by his/her work. For example: Roof collapse in 6 months and fall on top of your Ferrari.
3. Workers Comp - protects personal injuries for workers. For example: roofer fall from roof, broke neck. His wife drugging your S to court for medical bills.

I wrote "I don't want to start lesson ... " SORRY

Good luck
Keep us posted.
PICTURES PLEASE

 

[t500hps]

I don't want to start lesson "How to become General Contractor".
Here are some suggestions:
1. Reconsider about 12' height doors. If you want to bring box truck you stuck. By adding 2' (total 14') you don't have any restrictions what to bring inside. Any think legal on road can fit in.
2. Don't go 100 Amp . Get 200 Amp. Here is why: you are welding, fan is working, lights are on, compressor kicks in ... You are already over 100 Amp.
3. If you are in cold weather area: Think about putting radiant heat into slab.

Draw the plan, make copies. Use one of the copy to draw ALL your electical layout: wires, outlets, compressor wiring, 220V outlets, Switches for lights (i'd go for 4 light zone switches) etc. etc. ...

Rough, I'd say you are looking into $1,500- $2,000 for material, 20-30 man/hour labor (usually $50/hour), Check if your local code allows you to do electrician work. It not too complex.

Please do your self favor, follow simple rule:
Payment:
!!! Never ever pay ANY THINK upfront. No deposit, no "I need $1,000 for material". NOTHING UPFRONT!!! I've seen contractor ruin material and walk away with deposit.
Contract:
!!! Every think in writing. No assumptions. Down to simple details like " 3 rolls on each side of "Ice&Water" shield from Lowes Item # 865-86756."
Legality:
Every think up to code. Your town inspector is on your side. The contractors will be gone. Your building will stay with you
Personal:
Any one comes onto your property must be interviewed. First and Last name, Address (No PO Box), driver license #. If you have kids, make sure not to bring any *** offenders. You can check in local Police Department.
Insurance:
ALL Contractors insurance MUST be checked with insurance agency NOT just
- do you have insurance?
- yes I do
- OK come and work.
You NEED to call to insurance agent and enplane your project and verify you are fully covered.
Were is few details about insurances you need to consider:
1. General Liability - protects you and your property from accidental damages by contractor. For example his truck ruin your driveway.
2. Product Liability - protects you from damages caused by his/her work. For example: Roof collapse in 6 months and fall on top of your Ferrari.
3. Workers Comp - protects personal injuries for workers. For example: roofer fall from roof, broke neck. His wife drugging your S to court for medical bills.

I wrote "I don't want to start lesson ... " SORRY

Good luck
Keep us posted.
PICTURES PLEASE

No issue here with the lessons.....I'm not interested in being a GC, just trying to calculate a budget for the entire garage. Thanks for the estimate on material costs...that's really what I was looking for. I don't plan on doing much of any of this myself. Luckily I know alot of people and tend to lend a helping hand whenever my skills apply.......I believe I can get a few of the items done with help from skilled professionals but not everything. A licensed electrician who has worked for my company for years will do the work, I'll dig the trench and climb into the rafters as his "lacky" on a couple saturdays til were done.

A buddy who's a GC is slow and wants to quote a stick built garage vs a pole barn as I've planned. I'll give him a shot but expect it will cost more.

If the numbers are where I want them I'm ready to break ground immediately......Pics of the project are a given!!!

 

[D.J.]

My opinion is go with your buddies idea about stick built. Pole barn then you will want to box in between poles. Way to thick on walls for regular wall insulation and metal will sweat. Vapor barrier problems with the sweating walls, etc.

 

[danski0224]

An educated guess isn't worth anything. You need an itemized bid from at least 3 qualified contractors, based on an exact description of the work to be done. This description should specify exactly the quantity and quality of materials including brand names and model numbers. It should include all the associated work and include all permits, taxes and insurance. Each bid should be completely itemized and include the contractors overhead and profit. Only then can you adjust each bid to come up with a comparison that is apples to apples. This will also ensure you have included all the items necessary to complete ALL the needed work. This process will give you a useful number. Everything else is a wild assed guess and pretty worthless. Get your electrician to do this for a preliminary idea, but get 2 more to keep him honest.

You gotta be kidding on the O&P, right?

Itemized bid with names and model numbers?

Who is paying for the time to do this?

The OP needs to submit a drawing that has the specifications/schedule for the job, with allowable substitutions.

Bidding needs to be done per drawing and per specs, substitutions called out.

That will provide your apples to apples comparison.

Detailed proposals need to be paid for by the client.

The person that submits a napkin drawing to 3 contractors, asks for a price and then chosses the lowest price based on a 3 line item bid gets whatever is coming.

The only way I would ever provide O&P is if the job is cost plus.




To the OP:

The guy stating $1500 to $2000 to rough in a 30 x 50 building is way off, unless he gets his stuff for free... or he is figuring a panel, 1 light and 1 outlet. Your $6k to $7k number to finish is much more reasonable... depending on what you want- which we know 0 about.

Just the 4 wires for a 100A subpanel in my garage, which is less than 50' away in conduit, will be >$400.00.

A quick estimate would be ~$900 for the panel only if it is <50' away plus $100 an opening (switch, light and outlet) counted separately, 15A circuit. I would add 20% for a 20A run.

Worth what you paid for it. All areas are different.


Deposits and payment schedules are a normal thing. There is no way I would start a big job without a deposit and payment schedule.

No payment:No work.

No Work:No Payment

Simple.

Considering that in many States, the material becomes the property of the owner once it is delivered (not just installed), you are paying for it.

Certificates of insurance are sent by the agency to the person requesting it. Job location is normally needed. The person doing the work will not have this document. It comes from the insurance agent.

Sole Proprietors are exempt from WC in some States.

Release of Lien from suppliers is always a good thing. If the concrete guy didn't pay the supplier, they come looking for you.

 

[t500hps]

I appreciate the help guys, I'm only looking for rough estimates. I thought maybe someone had built something similar recently and could offer some ensite. I'm a consumer of machinery and services in my business (I spend well over $100K a year with an electrician, 8mm in machines in just the last 5 years). The point is I understand getting things in writing to protect myself. This build is likely going to be a "buddy" deal where some friends I've helped over the years help me complete certain parts of this project.
I've been told a 120 ft run from the house panel box to the garage, roughly 12 8ft tube lights, numerous outlets around the 3 walls and a 220 outlet for a welder will likely run $3-4 in MATERIALS....labor might be a simple as a few beers and pizza while we work.

As for payments/bank draws....I'm simply writing the checks. If my builder buddy (who used to live next door to me) stick builds it he will likely have me pay the suppliers direct then hand him a "wad" of bills to cover him and his crew when we're done.

 

[ddawg16]

The electrical is something I would do myself.....I'm thinking maybe $1k for material.....

To give you an idea.....I upgraded the panel on my house from 60A to 200A....I had a total of about $300 into it....but I did all the work myself....

 

[gabedad]

I would say less

for example in mass & it's always pricey in new england

My estimate

Job #1 breakdown

Furnish and install all material, labor, electric permit, and inspection for the upgrade of the existing electric service from 100 amp to 200 amp including new 200 amp main breaker panel, meter socket, grounding, service mast wiring, mast support, relabel of panel, and re-installation of the existing breakers into the new electric panel.

Material and labor for service upgrade...$1490.00

( please note this does not include any fees charged by power company for permanent connections to new wiring we install)



Job #2 Breakdown

Furnish and install 100 amp underground piping, fittings including expansion couplings, caution tape, 100 amp wiring, 2 pole 100 amp breaker in main panel, re-install the 100 amp panel we removed from the main house, 1 circuit breaker installed in panel, new gfi outlet installed in new barn as required by code for convenience outlet, permit and inspections as needed by electrical inspector, 2 inch underground pvc piping and fittings for pipe sleeve for low voltage wiring, 2 dedicated cat 5 wires, 1 dedicated RG-6 wire thru 2 inch pipe, and termination box in the new barn for these wires as needed.

Material and labor job #2...$1360.00

( please note trenching and backfill by others and also excavator will be responsible for sand needed in the botton of the trench.)

Since you are not doing job #1 you are looking at 1360 plus figure $100 an outlet -even at 20-30 outlets that's 2-3 grand so you are probably talking less than 5k

I would get some estimates and have a rough ide of how and where you want /need outlets

I would get some estimates

 

[Climber]

I just got pricing for you:
200Amp Panel
breakers:
1x 30 Amp
1x 50 Amp
10x 15A
5X 20A

30 boxes
20x 15A outlets, w/1,000 ft 14-2 wire
10x 20A outlets, w/ 200 ft 12-2 wire
2x 30A receptacle, outlet, box, plate (for compressor) + 100 ft 10-2 wire
2x 50A receptacle, outlet, box, plate (for welder) (sorry no wire in stock)
10x florescent lights 48" long, w/ 250 ft 14-3 wire
10 switches
Sub total $841.82, see attachment of actual quote.
Add to about $4.00 per foot for 2/0 wire in sch 40 conduit (about $400)
So total about $1,300 add another $200 for shits-and-giggles I forgot.
Total for parts you are looking $1,500, as I posted before.
This price is before contractor will get you into overpriced unnecesaries and before contractor rip you off.

 

[t500hps]

I just got pricing for you:
200Amp Panel
breakers:
1x 30 Amp
1x 50 Amp
10x 15A
5X 20A

30 boxes
20x 15A outlets, w/1,000 ft 14-2 wire
10x 20A outlets, w/ 200 ft 12-2 wire
2x 30A receptacle, outlet, box, plate (for compressor) + 100 ft 10-2 wire
2x 50A receptacle, outlet, box, plate (for welder) (sorry no wire in stock)
10x florescent lights 48" long, w/ 250 ft 14-3 wire
10 switches
Sub total $841.82, see attachment of actual quote.
Add to about $4.00 per foot for 2/0 wire in sch 40 conduit (about $400)
So total about $1,300 add another $200 for shits-and-giggles I forgot.
Total for parts you are looking $1,500, as I posted before.
This price is before contractor will get you into overpriced unnecesaries and before contractor rip you off.

WOW....thanks for the information, that was way more than I was hoping to learn from you guys.

I have the builder coming by tomorrow for a site inspection and after this weekend I have a couple changes for him.......like 6 more feet, higher pitch roof, and how do we deal with a larger "fall" front to back than I anticipated. This information confirms what I was told by a local guy so now I feel like I've got a good idea what to budget for ($2,500 in parts cause I will find a couple extras I "need")

 

[hidollartoys]

Might be to late, but I would estimate the electrical to be in the $4500 to $6000 range (material and labor) depending on the quality of fixtures and other variables.

 

[Kevin54]

This might not be much help, but I just paid to have a 13' x 24' kitchen completely rewired including a subpanel in the basement. To pull out all of the old wiring, add in 11 recessed lights 6 switches, something like 12 outlets, new 220 run for the stove, all materials and labor came to like $3500.
If you are just going to run Romex your price will vary quite a bit from running #12 wire in conduit. Running conduit, you are going to have the conduit, boxes, connectors which will add up over just Romex and boxes.
Any idea which way you are going to go?