Newbie outlet info needed

[thdewey]

On each outlet string I plan on first using a GFCI and then 3 standard outlets downstream. All on 12/2 nomex with 20 amp breakers.

Do I have to use 20 amp outlets for each outlet in the string?

 

[porschedude996TT]

No, you can use 15amp duplex or single receptacles. I have two 20amp electrical receptacle circuits in my shop with 12 15amp duplex receptacles. Think of the breaker as protecting the wire...

 

[Stuart in MN]

You are allowed to use 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit, as long as there is more than one outlet. And, since a standard duplex receptacle has two outlets you're more than covered.

 

[ddawg16]

Or put it this way.....

20 A breaker? 12-2 nomex
15 A breaker? 14-2 or larger nomex

The key is that you size the breaker to prevent any damage downline.

A 20A outlet has the one blade turned 90 deg....

You 'could' have 20 outlets connected to that one 20A breaker.....as long as the total load stays under 20A, your fine.

A big no no? 20A breaker with 14-2 wire.

 

[Scotto]

I have a question on the use of a GFCI in the garage. Would it kick a lot when you're under a lot of load? Is it really needed in a place like a garage?

I'm just asking because I just wired up 2 circuits with 12/2 on 20 amps breakers. I have some spare 20 amp GFCI's, so I was considering putting them in upstream.

 

[Mike83]

GFCIs should only trip when there is a ground fault. It detects amps out and amps back in. If those differ by a certain amount, then the circuit is interrupted. So if you have current leaking off the power tool into your body down to the puddle of water your standing in, it should trip.

Edit: Also, I think GFCIs are code for garages. At least I have them - my garage gets a lot of water in it and I run cords to the front yard as well.

 

[Scotto]

GFCIs should only trip when there is a ground fault. It detects amps out and amps back in. If those differ by a certain amount, then the circuit is interrupted. So if you have current leaking off the power tool into your body down to the puddle of water your standing in, it should trip.

Edit: Also, I think GFCIs are code for garages. At least I have them - my garage gets a lot of water in it and I run cords to the front yard as well.

Good to know. I'll def put them in because they're just laying around. Thanks.

 

[Mike83]

No problem. I actually got shocked in the basement because I wasn't using a GFI. I had water coming into my crawlspace area and I was trying to get the water out with my shop vac (the wettest, muddiest crappiest job since I bought my house). In the process of plugging and unplugging lights, the vacuum, etc I touched the prongs of a cord with my wet hand as I plugged it into an extension cord. I felt a weird tingling in my hand and up my arm when I realized what was happening. No harm done but a GFI would have tripped. Good thing I wasn't in the water. I now have a portable GFI outlet that I can plug in anywhere I might need one. $12 insurance.

 

[sharkytm]

FWIR, you can't use GFCI's on a circuit where you'll be using fluorescent lights.

 

[nadogail]

There are a few times when a GFCI is not a good idea. The one example I can think of is for a self defrosting refrigerator. As I recall from my training; the maximum allowable leakage current in the heater for a self defrosting refrigerator is greater than the trip current for a GFCI.

For this reason, both the refrigerator and freezer in my garage are not protected by a GFCI. Their receptacles (outlets) are behind the cabinets where they will not accidently be used for a tool.

The bench outlets are GFCI protected.

 

[larry4406]

My understanding is that the standard 15A outlets (the ones that are less than $1 each and have the parallel slots) are rated 15A via the stab connects but 20A if you use the screw terminals, at least mine are. I investigated this when I was building houses and all kitchen appliance circuits had to be 20A - the electricians used the terminals here and the stabs everywhere else in the house.

 

[rinker1]

FWIR, you can't use GFCI's on a circuit where you'll be using fluorescent lights.

Do the GFCI constantly trip with fluorescent's?

 

[Mike83]

There are a few times when a GFCI is not a good idea. The one example I can think of is for a self defrosting refrigerator. As I recall from my training; the maximum allowable leakage current in the heater for a self defrosting refrigerator is greater than the trip current for a GFCI.

For this reason, both the refrigerator and freezer in my garage are not protected by a GFCI. Their receptacles (outlets) are behind the cabinets where they will not accidently be used for a tool.

The bench outlets are GFCI protected.

Good advice. I am sure many a freezer or fridge full of food has been ruined due to GFIs.

 

[sharkytm]

Do the GFCI constantly trip with fluorescent's?

Yeah, some people have problems, others do not.

 

[tfi racing]

My understanding is that the standard 15A outlets (the ones that are less than $1 each and have the parallel slots) are rated 15A via the stab connects but 20A if you use the screw terminals, at least mine are. I investigated this when I was building houses and all kitchen appliance circuits had to be 20A - the electricians used the terminals here and the stabs everywhere else in the house.

First I ever heard of that.Sounds more like a lazy electrician to me,only hacks backstab receptacles!

 

[mrb]

First I ever heard of that.Sounds more like a lazy electrician to me,only hacks backstab receptacles!

many years ago there was a change (dont remember if it was NEC or UL) but the backstab holes were made to only accept #14 wire.

Me, I prefer to spend a few more bucks on industrial grade recpetacles where you stick the wire in a hole on the back and tighten the screw on the side and it clamps down on the wire.

 

[Scotto]

many years ago there was a change (dont remember if it was NEC or UL) but the backstab holes were made to only accept #14 wire.

Me, I prefer to spend a few more bucks on industrial grade recpetacles where you stick the wire in a hole on the back and tighten the screw on the side and it clamps down on the wire.

I don't think it was TOO long ago, because I just changed all my outlets in my house to white ones (house was built in '91). The 15A receptacles could accept #12 or #14 wire in the backholes.

Those industrial grade receptacles sound nice. You must have to go to a electric supply co for them because they don't have them at HD/Lowes.

 

[mrb]

I don't think it was TOO long ago, because I just changed all my outlets in my house to white ones (house was built in '91). The 15A receptacles could accept #12 or #14 wire in the backholes.

Those industrial grade receptacles sound nice. You must have to go to a electric supply co for them because they don't have them at HD/Lowes.

actually HD and Lowes do have them but theyre like $6 ea. There will be another source for them for garage enthusiasts for around $3.50 soon

 

[Charles (in GA)]

My understanding is that the standard 15A outlets (the ones that are less than $1 each and have the parallel slots) are rated 15A via the stab connects but 20A if you use the screw terminals, at least mine are. I investigated this when I was building houses and all kitchen appliance circuits had to be 20A - the electricians used the terminals here and the stabs everywhere else in the house.

You mean the push in wire connectors on the back of the real cheap receptacles? Throw those things away. The NEC only allows 14 gauge wire, max to be used in the push ins.

Best receptacles to use are Leviton Pro Grade, or a comparable Cooper/Eagle or Hubbell, all of which will have holes in the back you put wire in, and tighten screws down to clamp the wires between serrated plates in the receptacles. Very good quality. Leviton even has a nylon face plate version, distinguishable by its absolutely flat face around the slots. Look thru the slots on any of these I mention, and you will see the innards of a 20 amp rated receptacle even in the 15 amp only version.

Charles

 

[mrb]

You mean the push in wire connectors on the back of the real cheap receptacles? Throw those things away. The NEC only allows 14 gauge wire, max to be used in the push ins.

Best receptacles to use are Leviton Pro Grade, or a comparable Cooper/Eagle or Hubbell, all of which will have holes in the back you put wire in, and tighten screws down to clamp the wires between serrated plates in the receptacles. Very good quality. Leviton even has a nylon face plate version, distinguishable by its absolutely flat face around the slots. Look thru the slots on any of these I mention, and you will see the innards of a 20 amp rated receptacle even in the 15 amp only version.

Charles

I really like the leviton ones. 5362 is the p/n I think. I go through alot of those in our portable power distribution boxes.

 

[racefab57]

Ive got a gfci in the garage and some times it trips when Im using my T.I.G. welder welding Alum. Drives me nuts,some one told me to hook a grn. wire to the machine and grn. it to my grn rod by the garage.?? What do you think??? DR.