Newbie Question About Cutting Metal

[7th Kahuna]

Two weeks ago I answered a craigslist ad for a Logan metal lathe. The seller was selling off his father's tools and was just days away from turning over the house to a new owner. He was clearly in over his head, having had no interest in tools himself. Long story short, I ended up going back to give him a hand getting it organized. His 'thank you' came in the form of a 1970's era Everett 10" Chop Saw. The saw had apparently been stored in a plywood crate since at least 1982 and is in near new condition. We both figured if I had a metal lathe, I was going to need a way to cut the stock.

So here are the specs:

Wheel Capacity: 10" wheel • Dry Reinforced Wheels
Motor: 3 HP Special Hi-Torque • Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled • 1 or 3 Phase
Spindle Bearings: Precision sealed ball bearings. Lubricated for life.
Arbor Shaft: 5/8" arbor
Drive: Dual (Raw edge sure grip “V” belts with steel sheaves)
Safety Guards: Cutoff wheel and guards exceed safety code requirements.
Improved spark arrestors to deflect sparks.
Stop: Adjustable down stop limits depth of chop stroke.
Shipping Weight: Machines: 65-280 lbs.

Product # Description Price
100120 10" MIT 3HP 115 Volt 1Ø
100121 10" MIT 3HP 230 Volt 1Ø

I haven't looked to see how it is wired yet, just know it is the 3HP version.

Anyhow, I was looking at ads today and came across the more common horizontal band saw. Can someone explain to me why I would want one over the other? Seems like the chop saw would take up less space and with the 3HP motor cut through most things I would throw at it. I'm thinking maybe its a heat issue but I have no idea.

I had never heard of Everett but it looks like a really nice, well made saw, ... and we got the garage organized and packed with a few hours to spare.

Good deal all round.

 

[Kevin54]

I think that deserves a YOU ****!!!!!

That sounds like an industrial chop saw. And I am taking it that you did get the lathe?

Post up some pics!!!!

 

[yaidunno]

A band saw will usually be a bit more accurate when setup properly. The chop saw is good for thinner parts and tubing, but its not desirable for solid stock, say a 4" diameter chunk of steel. On the other hand, tube can be aggressive on a band saw blade, especially if the feed is set to fast. They both have their place, but if i had to choose one or the other, i'd be a nice band saw.

You'll also probably get tired of the smoke and mess the chop saw will make if your using it for many cuts.

 

[toolman1967]

That is a NICE saw!!!

A Band Saw will cut larger thicker material with less heat and sparks. It will also cut straighter than the chop saw.

I use the chop saw for quick cuts on smaller stock and angle iron. I use the Band Saw for precise cuts and on all the thick or dimensionally large stock.

Quick answer.....

Tim the Toolman

 

[Jack Olsen]

That's a $900 abrasive cut-off saw. So you got a great deal.

But still, it's an abrasive cut-off saw. That means more of a mess. I'm sure there are some applications where it's the perfect tool. In your shoes, I'd sell it and buy the types of metal-cutting saws you're going to use more often. For me, that would be a dry-cut cut-off saw, a portaband, and maybe a horizontal band saw. But again, it depends on what kind of cutting you plan on doing.

 

[7th Kahuna]

I think that deserves a YOU ****!!!!!

That sounds like an industrial chop saw. And I am taking it that you did get the lathe?

Post up some pics!!!!

Hey Kevin,

Yes I did end up with the lathe. It is a 1949 Logan Model 845-A 10" Screw Cutting Turret Lathe with upgraded production collet attachment and add-on production tail stock assembly. It also has a Phase III quick change tool post and probably a bunch of other things I have no idea what are. I took wood shop in high school. I have no idea what I have gotten myself into here.

At somewhere north of 1000 lbs it was a fun move and I didn't think to take any pictures as I tore it apart. I definitely need to take some now and will post them next week. I have temporarily reassembled it pending a complete tear down and thorough cleaning.

It wasn't the model lathe I went to see. He said it was a model year 1955 11" lathe. What caught my attention however was he said his father, a machinist, had had it since it was new, at first in their Seattle basement and later in his SoCal garage. Knowing nothing about lathes myself, buying a lathe with such a known history made sense. I'm not sure if that story is true however, as the 1949 date doesn't make sense. The son eventually admitted he wasn't sure either (after I had paid for it ). I suspect his father acquired this lathe in the late 90's as there is a receipt for a replacement user's guide and a bunch of parts. In either case, he would have known what he was buying and I have to trust in that. All I know first hand is that the ways look really clean directly in front of the head stock so whomever has used it over the years appears to have known what they were doing.

If it turns out to be the wrong lathe for me, or I find a deal on that 11" lathe I was looking for in the first place, I have no doubt that I will be able to get my money out of this first one.

At present I see one missing (gear) tooth, a broken hinge bracket on the head stock cover, and a mickey mouse replacement for the carriage lock. All easily replaceable items. Thank goodness for YouTube's mrpete222. He is a former metal shop teacher with a youtube channel. With his help I pretty much knew what I was in for when I started to disassemble everything. My only uh-oh moment was when I realized I had no idea how to remove the two belts that drove the head stock. Ended up cutting them figuring new belts were going to be less expensive than a trailer rental. Turned out they needed to be replaced anyhow. The whole thing fit into my Expedition in two trips, including the HEAVY steel cabinet.

So the best I can do for now are pictures from the seller's ad.

Does anybody recognize the item with the Morse taper in the above photo? I am wondering if that was part of the lathe. I couldn't find it anywhere.

And the saw for the curious (from the manufacturer's website):

Mine of course came with fewer safety stickers.

 

[7th Kahuna]

Thanks everyone. That helps.

That's a $900 abrasive cut-off saw. So you got a great deal.

But still, it's an abrasive cut-off saw. That means more of a mess. I'm sure there are some applications where it's the perfect tool. In your shoes, I'd sell it and buy the types of metal-cutting saws you're going to use more often. For me, that would be a dry-cut cut-off saw, a portaband, and maybe a horizontal band saw. But again, it depends on what kind of cutting you plan on doing.

Thanks for the insight Jack. I like those portabands. They are small but would probably serve my purposes. I am not sure what the difference is between a dry-cut cut-off saw and what I've got here. More homework to do. I'm guessing if these are that dusty, that probably answers the question as to why it didn't get much use in that Seattle basement.

 

[yaidunno]

Mystery item is a tapping head, more commonly used on a drill press.

 

[7th Kahuna]

Mystery item is a tapping head, more commonly used on a drill press.

Thanks yaidunno. I found the three jaw chuck near where the photo was taken. Left me wondering what had already gone (two weeks of garage sales before I got there) and what I may simply not have recognized.

 

[Richard D]

I am not sure what the difference is between a dry-cut cut-off saw and what I've got here.

Uses a carbide tipped blade like a Skill saw, instead of an abrasive wheel.

Jack's advise is right on the money. I hate my abrasive saw, it's only really good for quick and dirty, rough cuts. I use the portaband and vertical/horizontal bandsaws almost exclusively.