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Newbie with a mill

32rules

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Sep 28, 2009
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79
I bought an old bridgeport mill about 6 months ago.
I have never operate one before.
My machining skills are limited to a shop class project on a lathe in 1975.
This is my first project on the mill since figuring out how to operate it.
It's not much, but I was proud.







Its a clamp for my mill vice to mark position to make multiple pieces or to remove a piece and get it back in same spot.
It works great.
 
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Trucky

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Apr 26, 2011
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Ahh.. those "first projects". I think mine was (9th grade) brass rivets. Then a bolt, step pin, punches (still need to harden those.. made of O-1 I believe), vise stop, drill gauge, and then.. well a lot of parts :D

Keep at it. It's fun.

I recommend practicing on aluminum. Much more forgiving than even your most basic steel (1018 perhaps).
 
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32rules

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Picture of Mill when I was taking it off the truck



1943 M head round ram
Not the most desirable but only $475 with vice and tooling. Lots of tooling.
 

OccupantRJ

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Nice useful first project. The next step on it is to deburr all the edges to add another level of finish, and to add safety against snagging your skin. A hole can also be drilled and tapped into the side of the vise to bolt on an adjustable stop that will be below the top line of the vise jaws. This often comes in handy when you are milling the top of a part all the way across. I also have a round ram BP at home, a 1948 I think. Mine looks much like yours at the moment as I was prepping for painting it when we moved here.
 

justanengineer

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Nice job thus far. If you ask around your local library, many of the older texts from the 40s-70s had similar basic toolmaking projects in them that will not only expand your capabilities but also give you quite a bit of practice/experience.

Once you get a few machine tools not having basic tools is no longer a valid excuse....personally, I look for reasons to make my own tools at times.
 

bobadame

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Nice work on the stop. If you are doing multiple parts, your work will be more accurate if you clamp the stop to the back (stationary) jaw. The front jaw has a bit of clearance which causes it to not repeat back to exactly the same spot each time it is closed.
 
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32rules

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Thanks for the tips. All costructive critsism is welcome
I learned a lot on this little project
Small stuff like being accurate and what happens when
Your just a little off. How to size for a press fit. How terribly
Inaccurate a drill bit is

As far as the looks of my mill, its not as bad as the pictures
Its in real good shape with little backlash but previous
Owner didnt prep it properly for paint and the newer
Paint is flaking. Im having to much fun to fix that plus it
Looks like it could be a major chore to do
 

Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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Urbana, Ohio
Thanks for the tips. All costructive critsism is welcome
I learned a lot on this little project
Small stuff like being accurate and what happens when
Your just a little off. How to size for a press fit. How terribly
Inaccurate a drill bit is

As far as the looks of my mill, its not as bad as the pictures
Its in real good shape with little backlash but previous
Owner didnt prep it properly for paint and the newer
Paint is flaking. Im having to much fun to fix that plus it
Looks like it could be a major chore to do

You'll have more fun than you realize with machining parts. If you want, you can contact me anytime either by PM or even by cell and I'll help you out all I can with any questions you have. For a starter mill, you have a good one and it will serve you well. Also make sure you go to YouTube and check out the many videos of Mr. Pete or Tubelcain. He goes by both. He has probably a hundred videos on machining. Keep a notepad and just jot down some note in it of different things on machining so you can reference back to your notes from time to time. I've ran mills and lathes all my life and right up to retirement, I had a couple of notebooks full of notes. I left those with a guy I was mentoring to become a machinist.

One thing you will absolutely need is a set of drill bits, and a set of reamers. When making pressfit holes for dowel pins, you cannot trust a drill bit to do it. Reamers are a must. Shop around on CL or FleaBay and see if you can find the large Huot boxes that have your Letter, Number, and Fractional sizes all in one. Then over time you can fill the spaces with drills and reamers (you'll need two boxes, one for drills, one for reamers) Pick yourself up a Kennedy Machinist toolbox, either a 7 drawer or 11 drawer, and keep your cutters organized in it. When it comes to end mills, if you are careful with what you are cutting as far as materials, feeds and speeds, you can get by with cheaper end mills. Go to the website of Enco, MSC direct, and sign up for their catalogs. Both send out a large catalog, but then you also get weekly specials and monthly flyers on their sales.

Then you will need to learn about "backlash". This is very important, especially with a mill as old as yours. And again, Tubelcain mentions this in his videos and explains it very well. You also need to know the difference between "climb cutting" and "conventional cutting". And again....Tubelcain.

You will need a good Dial Indicator. It is essential that you have one for squaring up your vise on the mill table and for also "Tramming" your head in. Tramming is where the head of the mill is exactly perpendicular to the mill table in both the "X" & "Y" axis. Before you make any more chips, "tramming the head" and "squaring the vise" are the two most important things you have to do.

I could go on for hours, and learning to machine, you will not learn in hours. To be a good machinist takes months to learn, to become an expert machinist takes a lifetime, and even at that, no one person knows it all. I've ran machines for 35 years and in talking to other machinist, I always pick up another tip or two.

If you are going to be drilling and tapping, when it comes to taps, and you need to purchase some, buy 2 flute spiral pointed gun taps. You will have better luck with these than you will if you buy 4 flute bottom taps or something along those lines.

And since you have a mill now, you will also find the need for materials. If you have any scrap dealers around your area, start shopping. Also places like TSC carries some Hot Rolled, Cold rolled, and aluminum. Avoid your Hot Rolled if you can. You can identify it by it having a scale to it.
 
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383 240z

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Tubelcain vids are pretty good, something like 300+ of them!! He is a retired shop teacher he explains things in a pretty good straight forward manner. For a few videos of actual work being done and some instruction, look for vids from Keith Fenner, turn wright machine works. Keith
 

LXCam

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Excellent points Kevin. I had formal engine machining training over 30 years ago and as a hobby and even a living do a ton of basic milland lathe work still. And I by no means consider myself a machinist even though I can whittle a pretty decent part. Keep on practicing OP, the gratification factor of making a exacting part is worth all the effort.
 

Hephaestus29

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Mar 13, 2011
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Indianapolis
Congrats on the Bridgeport, been looking for one myself. Times 2 on Tubalcain "His screen name is mrpete222 on youtube" & Keith Fenner has good videos also.

What kind of crane are you using to lift the bridgeport ?
 
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32rules

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Buddy of mine owns an lp gas company and it is the
Truck they use to deliver 500 and 1000 gallon tanks
To homes and business. It was slick, never broke a sweat
Picking it up or delivering it. And it was free,well i had to
Buy breakfast

Ive watched a lot of tublicans videos. I was really green
When i bought i and learned a lot from those videos

Also thanks for all the volunteer help
 

Kevin54

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Buddy of mine owns an lp gas company and it is the
Truck they use to deliver 500 and 1000 gallon tanks
To homes and business. It was slick, never broke a sweat
Picking it up or delivering it. And it was free,well i had to
Buy breakfast


Ive watched a lot of tublicans videos. I was really green
When i bought i and learned a lot from those videos

Also thanks for all the volunteer help

You got off cheap with just breakfast. How far did you have to manually move it after it was set down on the floor? And how did you move it after it was set down?

And get after that vise with some WD-40 and some red Scotch-Brite pads. If the mill itself has grease that is caked on, get after it with the same thing....WD and Scotch-Brite. Then get some paint on it. It's way more enjoyable to run a machine that is spotless clean than it is to run a grimy machine. They may both cut the same, but a clean machine just seems to make it go better. :thumbup:
 

BigMike782

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Cool project and a cool thread!

It would be neat to see more high school shop projects.I still have my mower blade balancer,drill gauge and set of parallels.I also have a machinists hammer I made with the help of my Grandpa,he was a machinist at the brake division of Bendix, retired as a brake engineer and always had a lathe at home.
 
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32rules

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Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
79
The mill doesnt have any grease caked on it. Its just
Paint flaking. I have cleaned the table and vice with scotch
Brite and wd40. Works real good. I also had to run transmission
Fluid through the oilers to clear them out and made an oiler
Out of a grease gun. Im going to paint it this winter and make
Acabinet for the vfd.

I changed my mind on the location after my buddy set it
Where i wanted it. I moved it about 12 feet. I was going to take
Galvanized pipe as rollers but when i lifted it with a crow bar it
Slide several inches so i just slide it using the crow bar. Took
About 30 minutes.
 
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