Newbie with questions!

[WannaRace]

Hey all,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I just used a water based epoxy on my floors with a clear coat on top. First time attempting a project such as this and am pretty happy with the results besides the lap marks on the floor! I'm not trying to create a showroom but they kind of bug me anyhow. Is it too late to mitigate this problem?

Also, I'm wondering what I can do about the concrete base around the perimeter of the garage. This varies in height from 8" to 5" and the drywall goes over it and behind it in some areas. It's very inconsistent so I don't feel it's something I could use vinyl cove base with. For the time being, I've epoxied that as well, to match the floor. But I'm not happy with the look.

Thanks for any help!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

I second the pics. Providing them goes a long way to getting helpful advice.

 

[WannaRace]

In the last pic you can see the lap marks on the floor.

The other two pics show that near the garage door, the stem wall is rather tall (8") and protrudes out past the drywall. Then as it goes around to the side, it transitions shorter and under the drywall.

 

[WannaRace]

Pic 2

 

[WannaRace]

Pic 3

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

In the last pic you can see the lap marks on the floor.

The other two pics show that near the garage door, the stem wall is rather tall (8") and protrudes out past the drywall. Then as it goes around to the side, it transitions shorter and under the drywall.

The first two pictures look a little wavy. Is that an issue with how the pictures were taken?

The stem wall being behind the drywall in some spots and then sticking out in front is the result of how the stud walls were laid out on top of the stem walls. You can't really change that. You could use some kind of simple molding to even it all out visually. If you post a few close pictures of exactly what you don't like, suggestions will be given by forum members I'm sure.

As for the lap marks, I think if you screen the entire floor and then recoat using an 18" roller with proper back rolling, you can get rid of them. There are a few videos out there on Youtube that show good backrolling techniques. I do not mean that they actually intend to show how to do it. I mean that if you watch how they do it, you'll get it. Versatile's video (link below) shows it pretty well.

 

[WannaRace]

Oh wow thanks for that! That system looks pretty neat, I like the granite look. Overall, due to just a few trouble spots I don't think it's worth re-coating the entire floor. I thought there might be a spot treatment I could do, but no big deal.

I'm more looking for ideas to cover the stem wall in my particular case. I'll get some better shots of it. The pictures were done as a panorama shot with the iphone, that's why they came out poorly.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If those lap-marks are in the color coat you need to screen the clear, recoat with color, flake again and clear again.

 

[WannaRace]

Here's one trouble spot. The stem wall is 8" tall here, sticks out past the drywall next to the garage door. Then turns the corner and it's tucked under the drywall but starts to come out further as it goes along the wall. Vinyl cove base only comes in maximum 6" height. What are some other ways to cover it?

 

[WannaRace]

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

The issue you're seeing is that the stick framed wall and the stem wall are out of square of each other. That is a hard one to fix without drawing too much attention to the issue. I think the easiest think to do would be to install a simple pine 1" x 4" moulding with the top outside edge rounded over to soften it. Prime and paint. Install with the bottom edge of the molding flush with the top of the concrete. Keep the moulding the same height all the way around the garage.

 

[WannaRace]

Thanks for taking the time to help! I think I could fall back on that idea if nothing else works to cover the stem wall completely. I appreciate it.

Would a hollow piece like this work? Or does anyone know where I can find something like it to make something work? Maybe a little more dramatically hollowed out?

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

Thanks for taking the time to help! I think I could fall back on that idea if nothing else works to cover the stem wall completely. I appreciate it.

Would a hollow piece like this work? Or does anyone know where I can find something like it to make something work? Maybe a little more dramatically hollowed out?

My first inclination was to lead you toward something like that. I have a router table and thought that I might make something out of inexpensive 2x4 or 2x6 material if this were my problem. But after looking at the corners, I realize the cuts might get a little more complicated and the fact is this, since the stem walls are so low to the floor going with something like my first suggestion will hide all the imperfection that anyone will see.

Now, there is a way to cover the stem wall completely using 2x3 or 2x4 lumber. Make a short wall high enough to cover the stem wall. screw the bottom plate to the concrete below and cut various pieces to bridge this to the stick frame wall that sits on the stem wall. You could even screw it to the stem wall. Then cover it with drywall and paint.

Using this method is going to be very difficult if you want to hide the out of squareness. It will require that you make the new wooden stem wall square to the drywall. This will then make it out of square to anything else in the garage.

The problem with covering the stem wall with wood is that wood is prone to mildew and mold. The reason for the concrete stem wall is to keep the wood off the possibly (likely) wet garage floor. Even using green treated lumber, and you should for anything that touches concrete, the green treated lumber will wick water up and hold it inside the wall. Also, this is a lot more work and you likely be unhappy with it.

Personally, I like the stem walls in your garage. You did a very nice job with coating and flaking them. The stick framed wall being out of square with the stem wall is visually less appealing. Placing a thicker moulding about 4"-5" wide on top at the bottom of the drywall will really end up hiding that imperfect transition, be easier to do, and be quicker. If you get some nice 2x6 and have access to use a jointer and router, a very good looking base can be fabricated on the cheap. IF you use unfinished wood, I recommend priming all sides prior to installation and then use a durable enamel paint to top coat, preferably something with at least a satin sheen.