Next tool to restore...

[383 240z]

Well I finished my Wilton vise project, I bolted it down to the bench today. I used it a few time today for a few small projects. Nothing heavy, but nice to use a tool I saved.

So now I need another project to complete. Last year I picked up this big older grinder, just for the base.

The round bottom plate of the stand is 1" thick and about 2' in diameter, the stand pipe is 5" in diameter, and pretty thick. Top plate is 1/2" plate.

Today on a whim, I plugged it in, turned it on, and it spun right up, very little to no vibrations, I grabbed a chunk of 3/8" steel and really pushed it into the wheel, it just kept cutting, no noticeable reduction in speed. So now I need to clean it up and put it back in service. I'm missing the wheel guard on the left side, and both tool rests. The plan is to tear down, clean, paint and reassemble. Nothing major. Anybody know what brand it is? From the style I'd say it was from the Art Deco period. However that is just my musings. Here is the best pic I could take of the nameplate on the housing.

I know it's a real long shot, but if there is a left side wheel guard out there for sale, I'd love to know about it. Keith

 

[aquinob]

You can read it on the tag, its a Thor brand grinder. Is that a 7 for a 7 inch? You can see some examples here: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1985&tab=4

 

[nine4gmc]

Definitely a Thor, measure those end caps, I have two sets that idk wtf they came from and they may fit.

 

[383 240z]

Thanks for making that out for me. I'm pretty color blind in those green/grey colors. With it being so stylized I couldn't make it out.

I'm going to try to clean what ever that overspray is that's covering the body. Looks like that old green/grey primer.

I'll try to measure the wheel guards tonight, glass blast them and take some pics. Keith

 

[383 240z]

Is Thor a good brand? Never heard of them before. Any idea on a build date? Keith

 

[lakota]

A quote from attached link that gives THOR history

"Thor was best known for their handheld power tools, which are outside the scope of this website. They qualify for listing here because they made at least one stationary machine, namely a bench grinder that was sold through Montgomery Ward Co. At least some such grinders bore the Speedway label; Speedway Manufacturing Co. of Cicero, IL and La Grange Park, IL. Speedway Mfg Co was a division of Thor Power Tools."

link: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1985

 

[383 240z]

I'll give that link a read when I get out of the shop tonight. Wife wants a new wooden grain box made to store the dog food in. Not a huge fan of woodworking, but I'm good at it and its a good project. Plus you know what they say about a happy wife. Keith

 

[383 240z]

I got the right side wheel guard off, glass bead blasted and some self etching primer. I know I should have the jack stands under a certain old Chevy truck and be working on that instead of playing around with this old grinder.

Took a lot longer to blast this clean than I thought it would. Whatever they used as a paint and primer really worked.

Here is how it mounts to the motor end bells. The diameter is 2 3/4". nine4gmc, any chance those sets you have might work?

Also trolling for ideas how to clean the ID plate in the first post. Then the REAL important question, "What color should I paint it??" Keith

 

[Duct Tape Man]

Is Thor a good brand? Never heard of them before. Any idea on a build date? Keith

I have never owned a Thor grinder, but I have owned a couple other tools by them, both electric power tools and air impact. VERY NICE and industrial quality IMHO. I bet that grinder is the shyt.

Then the REAL important question, "What color should I paint it??"

Someone else on here painted it vintage-styled black crinkle paint, looks sharp.

 

[methomas70]

That black one is sharp.
The old stuff was so nice just to look at.
And on top of it, it was built to last.

 

[383 240z]

Damn you Murphy. I take a little time to work on the grinder tonight after work. The wheel came off easy enough. The inner wheel support not so much. I heated it and tap tap tap it started to move. So I tap tap tap some more and it stops. More heat, more taps, then I heard that stomach churning sound. Crack, ting, ting. Cast iron on concrete. Only problem one 1/2 of it was still on the grinder housing

So I grab the torch again heat the inner wheel support some more, and now that the wheel guard isn't in the way, a few well placed raps with a hammer and a brass drift, it came off the woodruff key and free of the armature.

So I tossed the 2 chunks in the blast cabinet and this is what I ended up with.

At least it fits back together nicely.

Looks like I have myself another brazing job. So much for a simple clean and paint.

I checked the runout on the motor, it was under .002" TIR. I can live with that. Carefully turning the armature, I could feel that the bearings are a little dry and rough. I'll be swapping them out I'm sure.

The switch as I'm sure you all could see from the first pic that at some point the OEM switch was replaced with a standard household 110V light switch. That can't stay. Only question is how will I fix the hole that was cut in the plate? Maybe TIG a small panel in, maybe a plate riveted over the hole?? I'll keep thinking on that for a while.

Not sure when I'll get around to the brazing, at least it won't take as much heat to get this part up to temp. Keith

 

[nine4gmc]

Can you reverse the center panel and have the switch hole repair on back? Maybe whip up a new center panel from sheet metal? Too bad about the casting but I'm sure you will have it looking like new soon, just a lil more work.

 

[Jeeper]

Very cool. Hope you show us pics of the brazing process. I had to look it up to find more about it and found this video:

.

 

[383 240z]

What has got me thinking hard about this job is warping. I'm afraid that if I braze the exposed side, they way I have it clamped, it will warp, pulling the edges upward and pulling the brazed area down.

I'm thinking that if I do the blue line first, to stabilize the smaller part and resist the pull of the passes to follow. Then move to the red line. If I can secure the lowest part of the casting. Right where it meets the table, that will keep the warp to a minimum when I do the long pass, that I colored in grey. Hopefully that and a careful post heat, will keep everything square. Then I can flip it over and repeat the process on the inside.

Jeeper, find my post about fixing the destroyed Wilton vise. I laid out the cast iron brazing process pretty well. Even if some people think I have no idea what I'm doing. Keith

 

[383 240z]

I was a good boy today, and I got all my Honey-do's done, so I decided to spend a little quality time at my welding table and knock out this brazing job I caused myself. I turned it into 6 small jobs. I was able to keep the warping to minimum. I followed the plan I last out in the last post.

I took a bunch of pics. If they aren't that great you can blame it on my taking them while looking through my welding glasses with my iPhone.

This time I was able to use a standard brazing head. Acetylene and oxygen psi were set at about 8 psi, burning in a neutral flame. You will see that the results are much better than they were on my Wilton repair. I ground the edge back on both sides with a carbide burr. Man that air coming out of the tool was COLD today. It's only about 38-40* outside today. I used my big welding gloves to protect me from the cold for the first half of this job. The flame was helping this time, rather than blowing the braze out, all most as fast as I was putting it in. I only used 1 12" rod on the whole job.

Where they are in order.

Here is how I had it clamped for the first pass.

First pass completed flipped it around in my vise, second pass ready to begin.

Close up of first pass completed. I put WAY to much brass in here, that will cost me a lot of grinding later.

Keith

 

[383 240z]

Second pass complete. You can see how much flatter this pass turned out.

It's out of the clamps now. Laying flat on the bench, time for the long pass.

Third pass finished. Very happy with this one.

Keith

 

[383 240z]

Flipped over, ready to do the backside. I had to re-position after I took this one, I flipped it up to make it easier to fuse it.

Here is the set up for the 6th pass, back in my vise. After the short run, I put it back on the bench for the long run, that being the 5th pass.

Last pass complete. I tossed it in some sand for a slow cool down after this.

Keith

 

[383 240z]

Since there was not a lot of mass in this part, it cooled rather quick compared to the vise.
Here is what some time with a carbide burr yielded me.

If i was totally insane, I could slap a little body filler on there, and nobody would ever know it was repaired. However I'm not at that point just yet. Tomorrow I'll toss it back in the blast cabinet clean it up again, and shoot some more of the self etching primer. I thought I was going to have to machine the center bore, but just a few minuets with the burr, and it fit perfectly on the end bell of the motor. Till next time, Keith

 

[Scimonetti]

I know absolutely nothing about brazing, but man that looks like a clean fix. Good to know that exists, and hopefully I won't have to do that anytime soon! Can't wait to see this grinder finished

 

[383 240z]

Shot a little self-etching primer on the repaired wheel guard today. Turned out well. The repair is almost invisible. I hope to work on pulling the end bells tomorrow. Looks like I just need to pull a Woodruff key and an internal snap ring, on each side and the armature will be free of the end bells.

I'm not "hating" the light switch as an on/off switch. I'm thinking maybe a black one would look more correct. Clean up the edges of the hole he hacked. Still not sure on the best approach to clean up the ID tag. The plan is to start with the least damaging process first and work up from there. So I'm thinking paint thinner on a rag first. Last ditch effort will be soda blasting. Would love to know of a place that could restore it, for less than the grinder is worth. Keith

 

[383 240z]

Cant hardly really even see where I fixed it. I should have feathered that inner clamping area better. It would have been really hard to spot then. Keith

 

[BajaBound]

I wish I had more garage space and a lot more skill. I really appreciate what you guys do for old beat down tools that have so much potential left in them. Carry on.

 

[Jeeper]

Wow, that if very cool. Nice work and thanks for posting some pics. I can't tell where the repair is.

 

[Murphy4570]

That. Is. Awesome! Keep up the good work. Your involved repair posts are very interesting and educational.

 

[383 240z]

Can you reverse the center panel and have the switch hole repair on back? Maybe whip up a new center panel from sheet metal? Too bad about the casting but I'm sure you will have it looking like new soon, just a lil more work.

I have an idea. Not sure if I will follow thru with it. But I found a suitable piece of thin stainless steel. I'm about 99% sure it is 409 stainless, should polish up real nice. Then I'm planning on ruining it. I've never tried engine turning before. Might be a new learning experience for me.

BajaBound, Jeeper, and Murphy4570, Thanks guys. It posts like yours that keep me taking photos, posting them and writing the text. I've picked up a few new skills from people on here, and now I'm trying to show some of the things I know how to do. Maybe this will inspire some of the younger guys on here to put down the iPhone and pick up a wrench. Keith

 

[road]

Nice repair.

 

[PFSard]

Just another thanx for the step-by-step. Great job, especially in dealing with that housing mishap.

 

[KamiCrit]

You gotta get it back together now!

 

[383 240z]

Nice repair.

Just another thanx for the step-by-step. Great job, especially in dealing with that housing mishap.

You gotta get it back together now!

Thanks guys. I'll be getting back on that project real soon. I put a furnace in the small shop today, got it all plumbed in and working. Just need to find the top of the workbench. Then I can get back on with this project. Still working up the nerve to risk further damage to the trim tag. I've been soaking the internal snap rings with Kroil every night, hope that makes then come out easier.

After that, I'll be measuring the bearings. Need to get them on order. Keith

 

[yaidunno]

I'll be happy to say whats already been said. Great job on the repair, fixturing, and prep work. Your efforts will surely be rewarded with the finished product. Neat looking grinder you've got there.

 

[383 240z]

I headed out to the shop tonight, fired up the heater and got to work. The snap rings popped right out. No resistance at all. Once they were free, Tap tap tap, first end bell is off!!

The bearing was supposed to stay in the end bell I think. Took a bit of work to push the bearing out of the housing, rather than the shaft thru the bearing.

Inside view of the end bell

Sure am glad this one didn't break. Really don't want to try to braze that back together!! Lot of cast iron in there, I think this one part weighs more than the grinder this one will replace.

Now I must confess, I lied to you all, I said I was going to clean the work bench, otherwise known as the catch all. I didn't. You can start shaming me now.

Didn't expect to find out this was a cap start motor. The run switch, tossed me a curve ball. Had to figure how to get a screwdriver in there to free it.

Keith

 

[383 240z]

While I was wondering what to do with that run switch, I scrubbed the ID tag a bit. This is a wet photo. After it dries it goes back to the first photo I posted of it. It is a high RPM 1/2 HP motor, Thats a plus!!

Got the stater out. Glad I was being careful again. Nothing got damaged.

Quick shot of the Mallory caps. I wonder if this is the same Mallory that makes ignition systems??

Here is the armature. Heavy thing it is!!

These are the bearings I want to replace. Looks like the part number is MRC 204 SFF all though the MRC might be the manufactures name.

Inside shot of the other end bell. Only difference between them is this one, the bosses are drilled and tapped for the run switch.

Outside view of the same end, still bolted to the stand.

Next job is to blast and paint the end bells. Might be able to find time to do that tomorrow. Depends on how I feel after work. Keith

 

[OctoMan]

I love old tools being restored and put back in service! Nice score. I restored an old metal cased Millers Falls 1/2" Drill.

 

[ttpete]

The bearings are 6204, add -2RS to that if you want sealed ones.

 

[gungatim]

IIRC, that mallory is different from the current ignition company. they either split off or a son or brother started the ignition side, can't remember where I read that

 

[classicJackets]

Very cool! The brazing came out excellent. Are you going to rewire to the starter? I'm considering doing that but don't know where to get the right wire (like what's on there now). Only piece on the bench I'll shame you for is not having the Datsun 260z drive sign up!

 

[cowboy73]

You might be able to polish the ID tag with some mag wheel polish. I'd use a microfiber towel and "gently" polish it. You could use a fine paintbrush and some Testor's model pain to fill in the lettering.

 

[383 240z]

The bearings are 6204, add -2RS to that if you want sealed ones.

Thank you! Now I do need to ask, i want the sealed ones right? Just call a bearing supplier and give them the part number. I'm guessing they are a standardized part, Timken SFK ect all use the same part number.

Very cool! The brazing came out excellent. Are you going to rewire to the starter? I'm considering doing that but don't know where to get the right wire (like what's on there now). Only piece on the bench I'll shame you for is not having the Datsun 260z drive sign up!

Thanks on the brazing compliment. I will most likely take the motor to a local motor shop and let him lool at it. If it needs it he can do it. I don't do much AC motor work. Change out the switch was all I was planning. It worked before I took it apart. Why would you do it, just due to the age? Insulation breaking down. Think I should toss new caps in it as well?? The Datsun 260z Drive and Maxda RX-7 Way signs will be put up shortly.

You might be able to polish the ID tag with some mag wheel polish. I'd use a microfiber towel and "gently" polish it. You could use a fine paintbrush and some Testor's model pain to fill in the lettering.

I'll give that a shot. I'm toying with the idea of engine turning a sheet of 409 stainless and making a whole new center panel. Then putting a large toggle switch in with a large red ON light. Then having a pinstriper sign painter buddy of mine go at it. Painting the ID tag info on the panel and pinstripeing the end bells and wheel guards. Would look pretty bad *** in my opinion. He did my big tool chest, a couple of hot rod art pieces for me.

I did manage to sand blast and primer one of the end bells. Going to try to get the other one done real soon. Pics to follow, once they are both done of course. Keith

 

[383 240z]

Got the other end bell sandblasted,

primed, and even got the time to blow some color on it.

I dug through my materials bin and found 2 options for the center panel. First up is the stainless steel. It's 304 with a mill finish.

Then I found this cool textured aluminum sheet.

I'm leaning towards the textured sheet, but I can't engine turn that. The stainless is nice, but I think I'm just going to use plain steel now that I see the color. It's a blue metallic spay can from Rustoleum. The color did not come across correctly in the photos I'll need to get better lighting and take some more pics. Next I need to pick out a switch. Keith

 

[CoopVA]

Looking good! Subscribed...


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