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NextGen Boiler

analog

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Joined
Nov 27, 2017
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21
Location
Central Oregon
I'm in the process of building a 24'x42' detached shop. I finally got my electrical rough-in inspection passed and have started on insulation. The plan for heat was always in-floor radiant and up until recently I was undecided on the boiler setup. We put 1/2" pex tubes in the slab.

I don't have natural gas at our house, so electric was my choice.

After a bunch of research, I found the NextGen boiler (http://www.nextgenboiler.com/) which appeared to be just what I was after. Simple setup with a minimal of plumbing required. It has the boiler, expansion tank, pump and controller all built into the unit with just electrical connections and in/out plumbing to connect to the pex manifold.

I installed it and fired it last weekend and thought I'd post here the results as well as use this thread to update on how it is working. Here is a picture of the unit as it is currently installed, with a very low-tech "thermostat" (just two wires connected) until I get my smarthome system running.

h9qdEZ3.jpg


Having never installed a radiant system before, I cannot compare the difficulty of this to a fully manual setup. The NextGen was very simple. The installation manual was lacking in details, but for the most part it seemed intuitive what I needed to do. I left two ports in my connection for temp/pressure gauges if I want them in the future. The control panel built in has temp/pressure already.

Once everything was plumbed and installed, the hardest part of the whole project was actually getting the thing up and running. The manual suggested I use distilled water, so I was unclear how to get 10 gallons of distilled water purchased at the grocery store into the system. I had an old basement sump pump which I put into 5-gallon bucket, filled it with the distilled water and made a custom hose with female on each end to connect to the drain valve. This pumped the water in just fine, but wasn't capable of pressurizing the system beyond about 7psi. The manual said 7 psi was the minimum for it to even turn on, and suggested 12-15 psi. So, I dragged a hose out from the house and use it to put the last bit in and get up to 15 psi which also aided in getting the last of the air out through the auto-bleed valve at the top of the boiler.

I did have one problem upon initial turn on, and that is the pump was seized. The date plate showed a build in 2015, so this thing has been sitting on a shelf for a while, and the pump had seized. Upon manually rotating it back and forth, I was able to get it to break loose and it seems no worse for wear.

I'm very happy that it is functioning as expected and the temp probe I have down in the slab is reporting around 72* after a good 48 hours of operation. Until I have my insulation done, I have the output temp set at the lowest (85*). So far so good with this unit and I'll be happy to provide an update as I use it and work through dialing it in.
 

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analog

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Nov 27, 2017
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Location
Central Oregon
This boiler worked perfectly through last winter. I finished my insulation and was surprised how comfortable the shop was in our high desert cold. I've just recently fired it back up for this winter and all it took was turning it back on, and waiting a day for the slab to come up to temp. So far, this boiler setup is working perfectly. No fuss at all.
 

kenneyginter

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Nov 4, 2019
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I am very handy but i have never attempted anything like this before. I am curious about a couple things.

- what size unit did you get? and how is the energy consumption? what do you normally keep the water temp at? and whats the air temp?
- what kind of thermostat were you able to hook up? anything automated like a nest?
- i know the unit has a summer mode, did u utilize that? how loud is the pump? (i am considering install in inside my home)
- did you mix in any Ethylene Glycol? w/ or without Corrosion Inhibitor?
 
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analog

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Nov 27, 2017
Messages
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Location
Central Oregon
I got the 8KW unit. I ran a bunch of calcs for heatloss to come to that number. I used a calculator similar to this one: https://www.builditsolar.com/References/Calculators/HeatLoss/HeatLoss.htm

I can't remember if that was the specific one I used, but it was very detailed like that to get an accurate picture of the BTU's I needed.

My electric bill definitely went up, but I haven't tracked the exact amount. I have the output water temp at 120*. I change the air temp as needed from about 55* when I'm not planning to use the shop to 70* when I know I'll be out there for a weekend working. It takes some time to respond, so you have to think ahead with radiant. I'm sure there is more optimization that could be done with my settings, but I have other things I'd rather work on, and it just works, so I leave it alone.

It requires a simple dry-contact type thermostat, so you can use many different options. I don't know if the Nest is dry-contact capable. I use a Zwave smart relay integrated with my smart home system. It's a bit of a cobbled mess because of incompatibility problems with the smart relay and Home Seer (smart home software), but that's not the boiler's fault.

Summer mode is just turning the unit off. You leave the breakers on, and just press the power button on the control panel for a few seconds and it shuts off with a small LED blinking to indicate summer mode. It cycles the pump every so often to keep it lubricated and running. You can hear a slight hum when the pump is running, but it is very quiet. I don't think you'd have any problem running it in your house.

I'm running straight water in it right now, but am considering a glycol mix in the future. Either is compatible with the boiler.

One thing I forgot to mention in my original post is that you'll need an adapter for the pipe outlets. Since this a European designed unit, it comes with a G Thread outlet. That's not so common in the states, so I used adapters to get to NPT:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJY4GYN/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

kenneyginter

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this information is super helpful. i think im going to take the plunge and dive in. could i lean on you if i have any questions once i get started? obviously it would be a while before i get the unit but i would love to be in touch. hoping i wont have to bug you but its nice to know i have some guidance in the back pocket if needed.
 
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analog

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Nov 27, 2017
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Central Oregon
Feel free to post to this thread, and I'll chime in if I'm around. Sometimes I go a week or two without logging onto the forums if I'm traveling or busy.
 

kenneyginter

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Nov 4, 2019
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what did you end up doing with the neutral wire for this install? i haven't received my unit yet but it looks like its not required according to the manual? am i correct?
 
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analog

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Nov 27, 2017
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Central Oregon
The heating element runs on a 240VAC circuit and requires no neutral just the two hots and a ground. The circulating pump, however, runs on a separate 120VAC circuit and requires a netural. I wired up a pigtail with a standard plug for the pump and plugged it into a nearby outlet.
 

fitter30

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Jun 23, 2019
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Peace Valley,mo
Boiler panel have a expansion tank and a pump output relay? Could use a step down transformer 240-120vac to run the pump. Design temps on radiate heating systems normally run water temp 5-10* over space temp with max temp 85*. Only use glycol made for boiler systems at 30%. Do not use automotive they don't contain the same inhibitors.
 
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analog

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Central Oregon
It definitely has a built-in expansion tank, but I'm not sure about a pump output relay. I remember reading something about being able to add an external pump, but I just use the internal pump. Thanks for the info on the temp setting. I'll turn it down a bit and see how it does.
 

lively1

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May 21, 2008
Messages
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I would really be curious on cost to operate. I am still waiting to pull the trigger on a boiler and have been debating between electric or propane. I will have to set a propane tank if I go that route. My shop is alittle bigger than yours 36x56 with 14’ walls and scissor trusses, but is not off by too much for comparison.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rotortuner

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Jan 12, 2014
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74
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Western WA
If you guys are comparing cost of electric to propane, NG etc. I found this helpful.
http://chestergas.com/CostComparison

In my area with electricity at 11 Cents kWh and propane around 1.50/gal. Made it a no brainer to go with propane. I bit of a investment in tank and plumbing but will pay off in a couple years.
 
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Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
If you guys are comparing cost of electric to propane, NG etc. I found this helpful.
http://chestergas.com/CostComparison

In my area with electricity at 11 Cents kWh and propane around 1.50/gal. Made it a no brainer to go with propane. I bit of a investment in tank and plumbing but will pay off in a couple years.

Your break even point with a 90% efficient boiler is propane at 2.60$. Your 1.50 price is very cheap. I hope that includes delivery and tank rental.
 

Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
It definitely has a built-in expansion tank, but I'm not sure about a pump output relay. I remember reading something about being able to add an external pump, but I just use the internal pump. Thanks for the info on the temp setting. I'll turn it down a bit and see how it does.

That black tank inside, the contact tank with the elements. Are you calling that thing an expansion tank? Or is it separate and bigger?
 
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road_king

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Dec 17, 2018
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77
Location
Eastern USA
In regards to initial fill and pressurizing a closed loop system, this works very well.

Axiom MF200 Hydronic System Feeder

mf200-1.jpg
 

rotortuner

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Jan 12, 2014
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Location
Western WA
Your break even point with a 90% efficient boiler is propane at 2.60$. Your 1.50 price is very cheap. I hope that includes delivery and tank rental.

My cost of electricity puts 100000 BTUs at about $3. Last propane fill I paid 1.76 a gallon with tax and delivery. I own my tank. That puts my cost off 100000 BTUs via propane at $2. So it’s like 2/3 the cost here.

The big difference on price for me was owning the tank. If I was bound to a lease they would be charging me about 2.20/gal.
 
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analog

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Central Oregon
That black tank inside, the contact tank with the elements. Are you calling that thing an expansion tank? Or is it separate and bigger?

No, that black "tank" you can see is the boiler part. There's also an expansion tank built in to the unit behind that. You can't see it from the front.
 
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analog

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Location
Central Oregon
A five-winters update on this. This boiler has just plain worked with no fuss and that was the whole point. This winter we've had some uncommonly cold multiple day spells in the single/below zero temps. I noticed the boiler not quite keeping up and running constantly all day with the shop temp slowly going down. I recently installed power monitoring in my electrical panel and noticed it was not pulling the fully rated watts except for maybe the first 15-30 minutes of run-time. That's when I adjusted the water temp, which was set to 85*, up to 95*. That made the boiler kick in all elements for a much longer portion of its run-time. We are experiencing yet another cold snap this week, and with the slightly higher water temp, it is having no problem keeping up. I am still extremely pleased with this unit.
 

jacksayle

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Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Messages
1
Location
Moline, IL
A five-winters update on this. This boiler has just plain worked with no fuss and that was the whole point. This winter we've had some uncommonly cold multiple day spells in the single/below zero temps. I noticed the boiler not quite keeping up and running constantly all day with the shop temp slowly going down. I recently installed power monitoring in my electrical panel and noticed it was not pulling the fully rated watts except for maybe the first 15-30 minutes of run-time. That's when I adjusted the water temp, which was set to 85*, up to 95*. That made the boiler kick in all elements for a much longer portion of its run-time. We are experiencing yet another cold snap this week, and with the slightly higher water temp, it is having no problem keeping up. I am still extremely pleased with this unit.
I'm so glad I found your post. I have been piecing together the parts I thought I'd need to heat my new garage. The final part was a used 12kw Nextgen boiler I found on marketplace. The previous owner had swithed to natural gas to save money. Anyway, thanks to your post, I was able to verify that this boiler already contains nearly all the components I was going to cobble together from scratch, AND that it has been working fine for years. Thanks, Analog
 
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