NG line size

[engnerdan]

One more question for the night, what size gas line would I need for a 50,000BTU heater that is about 75-100' from my house (thats the total pipe length) and there is about another 30' of steel pipe in the house that leads from the gas meter (so this is a low pressure connection). The pipe in my basement (where I would tape into) is 3/4 and 1/2 black steel (I could tape into either).

Thanks,
Dan

 

[V-10 Killer]

Here, you'll find this useful.
http://www.propane-generators.com/natural-gas-chart.htm
Just remember to calculate with the furnaces BTU demand, not output.
Natural gas only runs at around 7" of H2O pressure, so going too small on piping is a killer. From what I ran into with mine, I think you'd be ok with 3/4" back to the garage. I had about 150' from the meter to the garage furnace (90,000 BTU input) and needed to upgrade to 1" pipe.

 

[Ron Lombardo]

Based on my tables 100' with a .5" WC pressure drop 50,000 BTU's is the max ...I would go to 3/4 minimum. TRACPIPE sells a flexible gas line that can be burried and another for std installtion. Makes the job easy.

Ron

 

[V-10 Killer]

I checked with a local HVAC installer about the direct burial stuff when I was getting ready to dig the trench. The price was a little more but probably would have been worth it. I got sticker shock over the end fittings that went with them ($70 each), and went with black iron instead. Plus, they would only sell me a 240' (I think) roll, which was twice what I needed. But like I said, it probably would have been worth it in less headaches to do the Trakpipe stuff instead.

 

[kmishler]

I checked with a local HVAC installer about the direct burial stuff when I was getting ready to dig the trench. The price was a little more but probably would have been worth it. I got sticker shock over the end fittings that went with them ($70 each), and went with black iron instead. Plus, they would only sell me a 240' (I think) roll, which was twice what I needed. But like I said, it probably would have been worth it in less headaches to do the Trakpipe stuff instead.

Hey V-10, I've been thinking of running N.G. to my garages and black iron is definately a DIY project. I figured it would rust really bad under ground. Any thoughts?
How deep did you bury yours?
Thanks,
Kevin

 

[V-10 Killer]

Since doing this, I'm 99% sure that I'll have to abandon the 1" pipe I buried because of it being uncoated, and rust problems. It most likely won't pass new codes. Plus, a lot of inspectors want ALL fittings/connections available so they can be snoop/pressure checked. I'd have to dig up every 20' and expose the unions for him. I buried it with my water lines (42" down in Michigan), but I don't think it needs to be more than 18-24". Learn from other peoples mistakes and spend the money on the right stuff for the job the first time around.

 

[russlaferrera]

What about putting the pipe in pvc ? It's cheap and will stop the corrosion of the gas pipe. Rust is not a problem.

 

[V-10 Killer]

I probably spent ~$210 in black iron from building to building. I could have added another $60-70 or so in PVC (assuming I could figure out how to put the 90's over the 90's effectively at the end). Now you're at the same price as the flexable tubing, but which would be less work?

 

[kenfath]

About thirty years ago I installed a 1.25" buried gas pipe in anticipation of having a swimming pool. The pipe and fittings were epoxy coated. A special thick tape wrapped all joints to protect the cut threads which were no longer epoxy protected. It was a permitted installation. The instructions which came with the permit required the entire length of pipe to be exposed for the inspection. The depth was 24" minimum and it explained the pressure test procedure. It passed inspection!

Black pipe disolves in this area's soil which is why epoxy coated pipe is specified. IF I were to install another gas pipe it would be the direct burial tube type. Buried jointed steel gas pipe belongs in the history books.

 

[larry4406]

Although I ran LP line to my detached garage, I used plastic piping and fittings from http://perfectioncorp.com/. Real simple. The fittings are a unique design whereby you just chamfer and debur the pipe end, and stab it into the fitting - done. No threading, fusing, etc. They make various adapters, tees, anodeless risers, etc. Here in Northern VA all of the natural gas companies use this stuff in the subdivisions for running new services. I happen to make friends with the installation subcontractor who reeled off 200 plus feet for me at no charge (nice!). I am told that the piping is somewhere about a buck a foot. The fittings aren't cheap either, however you can't beat their ease of install. Mine just got inspected this week, so I get to bury it this weekend.

 

[russlaferrera]

I probably spent ~$210 in black iron from building to building. I could have added another $60-70 or so in PVC (assuming I could figure out how to put the 90's over the 90's effectively at the end). Now you're at the same price as the flexable tubing, but which would be less work?

One way is to go 3-4 sizes up at the ends, so the ells fit. Cost is cheap.

 

[wh1-t]

I install LOTS of gas lines (i'm a plumber), and your best options for underground would be copper (yes it's big $$$), or Tracpipe. Tracpipe is just one of the brands out there. Others are Gastite and Wardflex. They are all the same basic principle, but the brass transition fittings are brand specific. Common roll size is 240' for 1/2", but you need 3/4", which you should be able to get in various roll sizes. Check with your local HVAC or plumbing supply houses. I always sleeve Tracpipe anytime I run it underground. I use PVC (2" makes it alot easier than 1.5"), and bury it at least 2' deep. Hope this helps!

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I would encourage everyone to read the thread on "garage gas line" to learn more about underground natural gas piping, and would second the comments about "Perfection" brand PE products. I've used a lot of their stuff and it has all been first rate stuff. The stab couplings are nice because they don't require any special tools.

As far a sleeving gas lines...always try to consider where the sleeve is going to take the gas if there is a leak anywhere in the line outdoors. Sleeves can cause gas to migrate in a way that makes a minor leak into a major problem.

Phil