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Nice upgrades in my tiny garage

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Thruxton

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
767
Location
Virginia
I've been using my lift for a while now (same as yours- Bendpak MD-6XP) for lifting my 928 (and my wife's Civic) and other things, like a log splitter I have been working on, and I have definitely decided to install it in the floor as you and others have done.

Could you give me some details on your floor install? Specifically I would like to know how thick the walls and floor of the recess are, and how you tied the recess into the slab. Any other tips would be much appreciated. I got some ideas from Jack Olsen's thread but I haven't completely figured out how to do this yet.

I particularly like the way you use a 3/4 cover, will definitely copy that and its use as a work table. And I liked Jack's idea about raising the cover to the ceiling when you use the lift as a lift. Have you implemented that?

Jack also brought up the idea of a trench in the concrete for the hydraulic line. I have a disconnect on mine which I find a lot more convenient, as sometimes I want to roll the pump out of the way. When I put the lift in the recess I will add an elbow to make the disconnect easier to use, right now it's not a problem.

And I'll chime in with the others- those Lista cabs look great! Really like your shop, and of course P-cars are a plus!
 
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Vvmvbb

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2011
Messages
743
Location
CT
Looks great!! :thumbup:
Maybe I missed it, what are the sq. ft dimensions?

11'2" x 20'

I've been using my lift for a while now (same as yours- Bendpak MD-6XP) for lifting my 928 (and my wife's Civic) and other things, like a log splitter I have been working on, and I have definitely decided to install it in the floor as you and others have done.

Could you give me some details on your floor install? Specifically I would like to know how thick the walls and floor of the recess are, and how you tied the recess into the slab. Any other tips would be much appreciated. I got some ideas from Jack Olsen's thread but I haven't completely figured out how to do this yet.

I particularly like the way you use a 3/4 cover, will definitely copy that and its use as a work table. And I liked Jack's idea about raising the cover to the ceiling when you use the lift as a lift. Have you implemented that?

Jack also brought up the idea of a trench in the concrete for the hydraulic line. I have a disconnect on mine which I find a lot more convenient, as sometimes I want to roll the pump out of the way. When I put the lift in the recess I will add an elbow to make the disconnect easier to use, right now it's not a problem.

And I'll chime in with the others- those Lista cabs look great! Really like your shop, and of course P-cars are a plus!

Ok, here is the form we used:

62343e03.jpg


Note that we repoured on top of the existing slab to clean it up and level it. It's about 3" thk. in the front, and about 5" thk in the rear.
Outer dimensions of the form are 44" x 84". I'd go 42"w next time (wish it were narrower - straddling the pit with the cars is harder than I thought it would be).
So the side walls are something like 3" ~ 4" thk.
The plywood cover sits on the form and was 48" x 88" for the 2" lip all around.
The base is > 6", rebar.
We decided not to run the rebar up through the walls into the main slab (long story...).
The form depth is 7.5" (2x8s). That's important for two reasons.
One is it's the height of a cement block. To get the lift into the pit, we built two bridges of blocks, covered them with some 1/2 ply from the slab forms, and rolled the lift onto it. Then levered up the lift with breaker bars, removed the blocks, and lowered gently. Dangerous, and the last inch or two was anything but gentle.
Two is the lift with the risers installed is 7.5" tall, so the risers support the ply (rubber blocks removed, though I intend to cut down the risers at some point so I can leave the rubber blocks on...).
I'd definitely bury the hydraulic line. Put your disconnect at the pump. If you bury it, the fitting won't go around an elbow of 2" ID pipe, so use a T-Y and 45 deg. elbow. Take real care to align the hole with the whole on the lift.
I did not yet implement Jack's lifter for the plywood cover. As much as I like the idea, I am not sure I want that up there while I am working...
 
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rick carpenter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,767
Location
Huntsville, East Texas
That round flo light with the magnifying glass that you ended up putting in on the pegboard trim, how do you like it there? I have one that I'm gonna put on my bench wall but maybe with a base that hinges out horizontally from the wall so a little more room to move it around. But if it works for you like you have it, maybe it will work for me too.
 
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Vvmvbb

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2011
Messages
743
Location
CT
That round flo light with the magnifying glass that you ended up putting in on the pegboard trim, how do you like it there? I have one that I'm gonna put on my bench wall but maybe with a base that hinges out horizontally from the wall so a little more room to move it around. But if it works for you like you have it, maybe it will work for me too.

It's perfect there. I really didn't want it mounted to that bench. But, it turned out to be a bit of a pain. It's mounted to a 2x4 that i put there that runs between two studs, and the plan was to just screw the mounting clamp/base to that. But when you turn it backward like that the leverage is not in your favor so it becomes loose. So I ended up drilling the clamp/base and using a lag screw and a couple of Simson Strong Tie screws, which naturally did the trick. I have another one of these in my Lab in the basement screwed traditionally to the back edge of the bench, and that works perfectly too.

ee7b0447d77ae1be069bdd9963787c99.jpg
 
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