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Nissan Lube Techs?

r0meyrome

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Feb 17, 2009
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I know there was a oil filter wrench thread a couple of weeks ago and have completely read through all the threads but just wondering are there any Nissan Lube Techs here that can fill me in with a little information on the tools ill need for this job. Im familiar with BMW more thus this is a new scene for me to step in. I was thinking like the other thread mentioned.

-End Cup Style Sockets with a 3/8 drive.
-Strap Wrench

_Thanks
 
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Spookrider

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Eaton, Indiana
Oil change is a oil change on most car. Don't what creed or race it is. You have one or two drain plug 13mm thru 19mm and a filter. Filter can be old school tin cup or cartridge style that require a special tool get off IE Saturn 2.2 Eco-Tech Pur. 15436 filter.
Here a good place to find most special oil tools>
http://www.asttool.com/front_page.php
 

daveblank

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All splash shield bolts will be 10mm. Drain plugs will be 14mm. For most of the Nissans a pair of adjustable filter pliers will do you fine.
 
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r0meyrome

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Hey Dave! I was meaning to ask you....(Knowing your the matco dealer)...could i get student discount from trucks or do I have to go through the website?
 

Spookrider

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D** splash sheilds :bigun2:

Some of the design they come up with for us tech to do a simple multi time maint. on stuff is nut. They put so much in design but, they forget to think how easy to do reg. maint. on this POS of theirs.
TO me Saturn hit on the head on oil change when it come to the 2.2 Eco-Tech. 5qt and Pur. 15436 filter and a cheap sp. socket.
 

daveblank

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Hey Dave! I was meaning to ask you....(Knowing your the matco dealer)...could i get student discount from trucks or do I have to go through the website?

Only through Matco. I've seen it quite a few times where the price you pay is less than my cost.
 

66HertzClone

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Be careful using a 12 pnt socket on that stupid piece of plastic. A 6 pnt 3/8 socket is best and will never chew up a corner of one of the flats on the hex nut of the cover. There are several sockets made just for this purpose.

Anybody remember the first edition of the Infinit Q45, there was an under engine panel that started at the grill and went back as far as the fender and door seams. Many 6mm bolt that screwed into nuts welded to brackets or into the frame of the car. After a long winter up here in the northeast, many of the bolts would snap off when trying to remove them. The cover was required since there was no grill opening, it ducted the air allowing the cooling system to work. No panel, the car would overheat.

Several difficult to access oil filters on Nissans too. The first 300ZX was a nightmare, from above, unseen, beneath the right side exhaust manifold that was burning your forearm. How about the 4 cyl. pickups, where nearly the only way was to lift the truck and go thru the wheel well above the tire. Be careful not to hit thr battery terminal on the alternator that is clocked just in the right position. Our the vehicle my wife had two of, the Sentra with the 2.0 liter motor. The filter was on an adapter located behind the cylinder head on the right side of the engine. No access from beneath, and from above, hardly even then.
 

autoace

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Maine,USA
D** splash sheilds :bigun2:

Some of the design they come up with for us tech to do a simple multi time maint. on stuff is nut. They put so much in design but, they forget to think how easy to do reg. maint. on this POS of theirs.
TO me Saturn hit on the head on oil change when it come to the 2.2 Eco-Tech. 5qt and Pur. 15436 filter and a cheap sp. socket.

Everything is there for a reason, most of the time they are destroyed by quick lube places because they are in too much of a hurry to properly remove and install the shield. On alot of cars they are there for good reason, some to protect from road salt etc.(rusty oil pans) and others are there for noise reduction, some Audis will make a howling noise, when going down the road without it. No offense to you personally, but most quick lubes are a menace to automobiles, I won't list the nightmares from these places but there are many.
 

idubvdub

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Jan 25, 2008
Messages
187
I think I might have created the post your referring to. So far been working I think it's now, my 3rd week. I've found Matco's 3 JAW OIL FILTER WRENCH, to be total ****. It just will not bite. however http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2125&select=&page=5
last on page has worked like butter.

I'd recommend that style.
& I'd recommend a jaw type wrench.
Also get a dual foot air chuck.
If you have vehicles w/ spare tires under the car.
So you can inflate and check the tire pressure w/o dropping the tire.
Finally got mine in the mail today after borrowing one from another tech
when I needed it.
Cup type wait and see what size you need and if you even need it.
I've found at least for toyota's that I don't have enough space in most vehicles to be
able to use a strap wrench efficiently enough.
my 2 cents
 
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Zeroek

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Jan 19, 2008
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Indiana
When I worked QL I always had my own band style wrenches, plier style, had a few cups, basic hand tools. Screwdrivers, 3/8" drive ratchet with a few 6" extensions with socket set. Wrenches. The eco tec socket. I usually had a 3/8" drive impact for taking off skidplates. Did a terrible amount of trailblazers so 13mm for skidplate. Air chuck and gauge. I hated working in QL but I've graduated from that **** and now I have my own bays.
 

vssjim

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As long as you keep records show proper materials were used and scedules followed they can not void warrenties
 

daveblank

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Anybody remember the first edition of the Infiniti Q45, there was an under engine panel that started at the grill and went back as far as the fender and door seams. Many 6mm bolt that screwed into nuts welded to brackets or into the frame of the car. After a long winter up here in the northeast, many of the bolts would snap off when trying to remove them. The cover was required since there was no grill opening, it ducted the air allowing the cooling system to work. No panel, the car would overheat.

The first 300ZX was a nightmare, from above, unseen, beneath the right side exhaust manifold that was burning your forearm. How about the 4 cyl. pickups, where nearly the only way was to lift the truck and go thru the wheel well above the tire. Be careful not to hit thr battery terminal on the alternator that is clocked just in the right position. Our the vehicle my wife had two of, the Sentra with the 2.0 liter motor. The filter was on an adapter located behind the cylinder head on the right side of the engine. No access from beneath, and from above, hardly even then.


I have drilled & tapped many of the bolts that were rusted & broke. It was also not uncommon for a customer to bottom out the car & break them off.

Just the same as the early 300 was the Pathfinders, v6 trucks, & Infiniti M30. a kevlar heat sleeve will stop the burn. For me the 4 cyl trucks & 2.0 motors never posed a problem. The biggest thing with the 2.0 motor was the oil catch when the filter was removed. Many techs would not clean it up, they left the oul there & then the car would come in with an "oil leak".

I always loved the design of the Infiniti J. Hot oil would run on the rh rack boot. over time it would cause the boot to fail prematurely. a simple shield would have solved the problem.
 
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r0meyrome

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Thanks guys for the help but it seems that theyre gonna be providing me the tools and a toolbox at work! Thanks though!!
 

daveblank

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Thanks guys for the help but it seems that theyre gonna be providing me the tools and a toolbox at work! Thanks though!!


This will be the best advice I can ever give you. Do a full inventory of the tools on your 1st day! Keep a copy for you & give a copy to the service manager. Both of you need to sign it. This is for your protection. If you do this they cannot say that you lost something or, are taking their tools if you bought your own. Document everything that you can about their tools.
 
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r0meyrome

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Alright thanks dave. Good advice never thought about it that far but definitely a good idea!
 
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