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NJ Zoning bulk variance questions

Joelfke

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Mt Holly, NJ
My town allows me to build a garage at max 24' x 36'. I plan to build a 24x24 garage. Problem is the town only allows the structure to have a max height of 13ft. I want 14' sides so the total height would be 18'8" (as per most pole barn companies) so I need a bulk variance. Couple questions, especially pertaining to nj but it might be the same all over. How much did it cost you if you did it. The nice lady at zoning dept is telling me i need at least 600 in escrow and it is always more by the end, she guessed around 2000-3000. Kind of nuts but so is nj. Also, theyre telling me i need to prove hardship in order for the variance to be approved. What the hell does that even mean. Its a hardship that I need to spend 3k on a freaking variance, but I cant put that down.

Has anyone (especially in NJ) dealt with this type of situation? The spacing from side and back yards is fine but the height is the only issue causing me to need a variance.
 
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NorthNjWK

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I don’t have any input for your situation and I wish you the best. NJ ***** with most things under government control. —from Warren County NJ
 

Chuckster in NJ

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You can represent yourself on this "simple" variance. The escrow fees are to pay the town professionals like the engineer and attorney. This is NOT a hardship because you don’t have to have a building this tall and what do you want to use this building for when MOST neighbors don’t have a 18’ tall garage for storage of a car or truck....... Basically it doesn’t conform with what the majority of your neighbors have.
The biggest question is: "What do your neighbors think about this?"..... Because "IF" one neighbor objects to the height of the building (because this will block the sun from their view or some other BS reason) you will NOT get the variance.
Keep in mind you may have impervious coverage issues too along with storm water management issues so be prepared no matter what the height is.

TIP! Answer questions only and DO NOT volunteer anything because once these zoning boards get you going they don’t stop. Roam around your neighborhood and see if any other properties have tall buildings that don’t comply with zoning regulations and get the addresses of the properties.

BTW! Most of the time ALL escrow monies will be gone instantly and expect to get a bill for more fees...... They have a "very creative way" on how to spend this money and account for their time. :mad:
 

James-W

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I understand your situation and it really ***** that things work the way they do. My opinion, and you won't like it, is that unless you have a bunch of money to throw away, just build the structure the largest size they will let you build and move on.

If you try to get a variance, you might succeed, but in my experience it is more likely you will be turned down. If you are turned down you do not get back the money you spent trying to get the variance and you are then stuck with having to only build the structure the size they allowed you to build in the first place.

If you do go ahead and try for the variance, I wish you all the best. If it were me, I would avoid the aggravation and just build the size they will allow. It is hard to fight City Hall and win. Not saying you CAN'T win, just saying it is hard to do. It also usually comes with a hefty price tag.
 
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Joelfke

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You can represent yourself on this "simple" variance. The escrow fees are to pay the town professionals like the engineer and attorney. This is NOT a hardship because you don’t have to have a building this tall and what do you want to use this building for when MOST neighbors don’t have a 18’ tall garage for storage of a car or truck....... Basically it doesn’t conform with what the majority of your neighbors have.
The biggest question is: "What do your neighbors think about this?"..... Because "IF" one neighbor objects to the height of the building (because this will block the sun from their view or some other BS reason) you will NOT get the variance.
Keep in mind you may have impervious coverage issues too along with storm water management issues so be prepared no matter what the height is.

TIP! Answer questions only and DO NOT volunteer anything because once these zoning boards get you going they don’t stop. Roam around your neighborhood and see if any other properties have tall buildings that don’t comply with zoning regulations and get the addresses of the properties.

BTW! Most of the time ALL escrow monies will be gone instantly and expect to get a bill for more fees...... They have a "very creative way" on how to spend this money and account for their time. :mad:

My neighbors all told me they dont have a problem with it. My issue is with the town and I have no idea how strict/PITA they are with this kind of thing. My neighbor behind me has a garage that isnt 18ft like I want mine but is definitely higher than 13. I cant exactly hop the fence and measure though.

As far as your escrow comment. I completely understand, the zoning land use admin told me I have to keep money in the escrow when it is depleted and there is no knowing how much they will charge, so essentially im writing a blank check to the town, which is insane.
 

yeldogt

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Spend $500 dollars -- find a good land use attorney to ask a few questions. What is possible -- what it will cost. Unfortunately, the one I used in NJ has died.

My guess is they will tell you to go back and spend the money it will cost on getting the variance --- on the building to get out of it what you want within the current codes.

Why do you want or need 14' walls?

The escrow will grow -- first review ... any changes -- review again. My town stopped with the 1k .. they hit you for the $2500 that even simple reviews cost. The towns professionals have no desire to cut corners reviewing your information.

Don't even think about soil disturbance permits or water management permits
 

PelicanPines

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Buddy tried to get a variance to raise his roof height. Be wanted to install a lift for his custom rod. Neighbors get notified of requested variances within a certain amount of feet of their property to yours... in my town it's 800 feet. You need to provide certified mail to each resident. There will be a hearing where your neighbors can object to your variance.

All that said... they turned down my buddies variance because the town was afraid, with the taller roof, the garage would run some type of business repairing cars, etc.

That is one primary reason there is a statue stipulating garage roof heights.
 

Chuckster in NJ

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My suggestion is to build what is compliant with the land use ordinance and move on.
You can hire an attorney but they are pricey and don’t guarantee that you will get approved however they know how to get things done.
Basically, The town must justify why they would deny this variation just like you have to justify why you want this non-conforming building...... You have a 50-50 chance of winning and the town has a 100% chance of winning because YOU are paying them for their time.

I have asked for a variance on an addition when I lived in Edison and it was granted without a problem and I represented myself....... I also asked for a variance to subdivide a piece of property that did not have enough street frontage width with and it was denied because it was not a hardship and I paid an attorney $5000 to represent me.
 
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Joelfke

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Spend $500 dollars -- find a good land use attorney to ask a few questions. What is possible -- what it will cost. Unfortunately, the one I used in NJ has died.

My guess is they will tell you to go back and spend the money it will cost on getting the variance --- on the building to get out of it what you want within the current codes.

Why do you want or need 14' walls?

The escrow will grow -- first review ... any changes -- review again. My town stopped with the 1k .. they hit you for the $2500 that even simple reviews cost. The towns professionals have no desire to cut corners reviewing your information.

Don't even think about soil disturbance permits or water management permits

14' walls for A) a lift. I am a mechanic for a living but I have no plans to run any kind of business i'm just tired of doing brake jobs on my own cars on my knees/****.
B) I would at some point like to do a mezzanine and being that im 6'5 i wouldnt have to hunch over with any second story storage
 
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Stuart in MN

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All that matters is what the regulations are in your town, so how it's done anywhere else doesn't have a lot of relevance.

Having said that, this is my advice if you decide to apply for the variance: be prepared.

I had to get a variance for the height of my garage. I made sure I followed every instruction to the letter, and showed up at the variance review board meeting as prepared as I could be, with signatures of neighbors, plans, photos, drawings, and I had a rehearsed and logical explanation for why I wanted to build it higher than normal. I also dressed appropriately for appearing at a meeting at City Hall.

There were a number of other people there the same day seeking variances for various things (fence heights, building setbacks from property lines, etc.), and to a person none of them was very well prepared. Their paperwork was either incorrect or not fully filled out, they weren't able to adequately explain why they should get a variance, and frankly most of them looked like they just got done digging a hole in the dirt.

I happened to be the last person on the agenda, and I sat and watched as every one of the other people had their variance denied. I got up, gave copies of all my documentation to the review board members, explained my case, and my variance was approved. They actually complimented me on how I presented my case.

So again - be prepared.
 
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Joelfke

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All that matters is what the regulations are in your town, so how it's done anywhere else doesn't have a lot of relevance.

Having said that, this is my advice if you decide to apply for the variance: be prepared.

I had to get a variance for the height of my garage. I made sure I followed every instruction to the letter, and showed up at the variance review board meeting as prepared as I could be, with signatures of neighbors, plans, photos, drawings, and I had a rehearsed and logical explanation for why I wanted to build it higher than normal. I also dressed appropriately for appearing at a meeting at City Hall.

There were a number of other people there the same day seeking variances for various things (fence heights, building setbacks from property lines, etc.), and to a person none of them was very well prepared. Their paperwork was either incorrect or not fully filled out, they weren't able to adequately explain why they should get a variance, and frankly most of them looked like they just got done digging a hole in the dirt.

I happened to be the last person on the agenda, and I sat and watched as every one of the other people had their variance denied. I got up, gave copies of all my documentation to the review board members, explained my case, and my variance was approved. They actually complimented me on how I presented my case.

So again - be prepared.

I have no problem shaving and looking professional. I also have no problem having all of my paperwork/neighbors signatures. I even have to have a notice in the paper. My main question is that theyre saying I have to prove a hardship. What did you have to submit? obviously my town is different but I feel like if they ask why I need side height at 14' and I say because I have a classic car and need a lift theyre going to assume im trying to run a business out of it, which I am not.
 

Biff Lungren

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How about 6'5" as a hardship? Bonus points if you can work 'Equity' into your presentation!
 

PelicanPines

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The town also cares about the next owner of your property... you may have no plans of a business but a garage with a lift would be gold in the hands of a future young wrench Turner trying to pay his new mortgage.

I never lived in My Holley but the three towns I did live in would never allow for a building variance so a resident could install a lift.

That said... there are work arounds. Talk to the pole people... see if they have a solution.
 
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Yankeefarmer

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A maximum height of 13 ft only allows for a single story building if the roof has any pitch at all. Make sure that is truly the requirement, and that the height limit in your zoning regulations is not defined in terms of “average height,” which is typically half way between the top of wall and the ridge.
 

Stuart in MN

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As was pointed out, in their eyes a taller garage is a want and not a hardship. In my case, the additional height was mainly so the garage would match my house (it's 110 years old, with a steeply pitched roof.) The fact that it gave me extra headroom inside as well as a good size attic space was a bonus. It also has trim, windows and doors that compliment the house. I think what won them over was they could see the size, shape and appearance of the garage would be a positive contribution to the neighborhood. I told them that I had some old cars and motorcycles, but they weren't particularly concerned about that.

You can tell them you have a classic car you're working on and will need to jack it up, etc. but you may not want to bring up the hoist if you're concerned about what they may think. On the other hand, if you can show them that it will look nice and blend in with your house and the rest of the neighborhood, they'll see value in allowing a variance.

As far as that goes, do you really need a full 14' headroom? Unless you're working on a lifted truck, you can probably get by with less than that. The ceiling height in my garage is a little over 10' and I have a four post lift with a car on it. Granted, it's a low sports car and everything clears with inches to spare, but it can be done.

edit: I just saw that you're 6'5", so that does explain things somewhat. However, I'm 6'1" and my situation works for me.
 
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Joelfke

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As was pointed out, in their eyes a taller garage is a want and not a hardship. In my case, the additional height was mainly so the garage would match my house (it's 110 years old, with a steeply pitched roof.) The fact that it gave me extra headroom inside as well as a good size attic space was a bonus. It also has trim, windows and doors that compliment the house. I think what won them over was they could see the size, shape and appearance of the garage would be a positive contribution to the neighborhood. I told them that I had some old cars and motorcycles, but they weren't particularly concerned about that.

You can tell them you have a classic car you're working on and will need to jack it up, etc. but you may not want to bring up the hoist if you're concerned about what they may think. On the other hand, if you can show them that it will look nice and blend in with your house and the rest of the neighborhood, they'll see value in allowing a variance.

As far as that goes, do you really need a full 14' headroom? Unless you're working on a lifted truck, you can probably get by with less than that. The ceiling height in my garage is a little over 10' and I have a four post lift with a car on it. Granted, it's a low sports car and everything clears with inches to spare, but it can be done.

edit: I just saw that you're 6'5", so that does explain things somewhat. However, I'm 6'1" and my situation works for me.

My original thought was where the lift wasn't i could build a second story and have storage. My wife really liked the idea also. if i go lower I might be able to get a lift in there but no storage, which i guess is not the end of the world but 13' at the peak is going to be tight getting a lift in. Ill have to see what pitches are available. I have a regular cab pickup that would get lifted on the hoist from time to time so its not just cars. ***** being tall, if i were 5'5 I wouldnt have half of the problems i have, plus i could fit in every sportscar and not just a couple :lol_hitti
 

96PSD

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I have a friend that lives in Rancocas and all he wanted to do was put a small garden shed in his backyard. Couldn't believe what he went through to get that approved. It included the color of the building.

Definitely bring up comparable structures in your area to help leverage your cause. I was glad I had no issues building my 40x40 with 48x16 RV bay in East Windsor. The peak sits about 23' tall.
 
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Joelfke

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I have a friend that lives in Rancocas and all he wanted to do was put a small garden shed in his backyard. Couldn't believe what he went through to get that approved. It included the color of the building.

Definitely bring up comparable structures in your area to help leverage your cause. I was glad I had no issues building my 40x40 with 48x16 RV bay in East Windsor. The peak sits about 23' tall.

My dad built a 30x40x14 in monroe twp and didnt have to prove any kind of hardship just had to get all the neighbors OK as it was closer than 10 or 15 feet from the side property line. I dont remember him putting all kinds of money into escrow either.

This town is insane
 

510ebl

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14' walls for A) a lift. I am a mechanic for a living but I have no plans to run any kind of business i'm just tired of doing brake jobs on my own cars on my knees/****.
B) I would at some point like to do a mezzanine and being that im 6'5 i wouldnt have to hunch over with any second story storage

This is probably obvious, but you might not want to bring this up unless asked.
 
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mikegt4

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My original thought was where the lift wasn't i could build a second story and have storage. My wife really liked the idea also. if i go lower I might be able to get a lift in there but no storage, which i guess is not the end of the world but 13' at the peak is going to be tight getting a lift in. Ill have to see what pitches are available. I have a regular cab pickup that would get lifted on the hoist from time to time so its not just cars. ***** being tall, if i were 5'5 I wouldnt have half of the problems i have, plus i could fit in every sportscar and not just a couple :lol_hitti

I understand your pain. I have a friend that I grew up with who is 6'-7" and a car guy, he can't fit in a lot of cars that he would like to own.

Is there a possibility that you could lower the floor a couple of feet below ground level? My garage is built on sloped land with the floor 2' below ground level along the sides. The driveway approach slopes downward (cutting below ground level) to a point about 3' below ground level about 20' feet before the garage doors then slopes back up to meet the floor at the entrance. Drains are position at the lowest point of the driveway and have successfully carried away water even at the most torrential downpours for over 25 years. One side of the driveway has a low retaining wall and the other is just a grass slope. From no rise to a 3' rise at the drain to 2' at the corner of the garage.

My property has slopes, both natural and created by me, your conditions my be different. The way that I built my garage allows for a door in the back which has become it's best feature. On more level ground you could just have a wall at the back. I have a poured stem wall foundation that is about 8-10" above the exterior ground level with a conventional stud wall construction from there up.
 

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Joelfke

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Is there a possibility that you could lower the floor a couple of feet below ground level? My garage is built on sloped land with the floor 2' below ground level along the sides. The driveway approach slopes downward (cutting below ground level) to a point about 3' below ground level about 20' feet before the garage doors then slopes back up to meet the floor at the entrance. Drains are position at the lowest point of the driveway and have successfully carried away water even at the most torrential downpours for over 25 years. One side of the driveway has a low retaining wall and the other is just a grass slope. From no rise to a 3' rise at the drain to 2' at the corner of the garage.

My property has slopes, both natural and created by me, your conditions my be different. The way that I built my garage allows for a door in the back which has become it's best feature. On more level ground you could just have a wall at the back. I have a poured stem wall foundation that is about 8-10" above the exterior ground level with a conventional stud wall construction from there up.

The spot I have to do it is pretty much the most level and also highest spot on the property (which isnt a large property), if i lowered the building I would have all kinds of flooding issue. Plus, looking at the wording of the code it says 13ft from the foundation top to the roof peak. I dont think it matters how high the building is actually sticking out of the ground.
 

driftpin

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My advice (I have worked in Florida as a planner, and am a certified plans examiner):
Access city records for the past year, and see what variances were requested, what the outcome was, and who represented them. Usually there is a firm or professional, and of-course, that could be plural, who have success getting things done in the jurisdiction. If you really-want to pursue the variance, spend the $ for a consultation with that person, or that firm. An ethical land use attorney or APA (American Planning Assoc.) member or AICP member (American Institute of Certified Planners) will have the experience, the knowledge of local ordinances and statutes, and will know the people with whom you will have to contend. They aren't going to be inexpensive, but if that's what you want, they are what I believe to be your best-chance for success.

At the planning & zoning meeting, do not volunteer anything unnecessarily. Actually, when you hire the land use firm/attorney and/or an APA/AICP professional, you probably should sit there, mute, and allow the professional to speak on your behalf. The people you're hiring do this for a living. They are not going to get excited like you might, when someone says something criticizing your hoped-for plan. Be quiet, sit there, let them earn their fee.

Sometimes the people making the decisions don't have a clue. However, your goal is to succeed in the variance application. Pointing-out how-stupid a planning & zoning board member is, or an elected official who is ignorant about your plan for your real property, doesn't share your dream of a lift-equipped shop, says-so, you cannot challenge them. Again, let the professional plead your case.

It's always helpful, and usually required to present a site plan with a sealed survey as the basis for your application, here in southeast Florida. It could also help your application chances if you provide them with some elevations (drawings) of the appearance of the building, and how it matches the architecture already existing on the parcel. Having a 100 year-old Craftsman style cottage w/cedar shake shingles, of modest dimensions, say, 1,500 sq. ft. 'under air,' as-is said, and wanting to build a CBS wall, standing seam seal metal roof for a building of 3,000 sq. ft. probably doesn't have much of a chance to be approved. Make the proposed building the same style, with similar details, give it some curb appeal to the view from the street: similar doors, windows, trim details, colors, and landscaping.

Only asking for one variance may also help you to achieve your desire. Don't look to encroach into a 20 ft side setback to within 5 ft. of the side property line or the rear p/l, while also exceeding the % of size of the parcel's primary use which is allowed, and having a building taller than-allowed, exceeding the permitted plot coverage for impermeable use, and sloping the runoff to the property lines, with no water retention plan. "That dog don't hunt!"

Providing a schedule of landscaping, using native species, and species which are drought-resistant, and xeriscape too, with at-least one elevation view of the building proposed with this flora will help to document your sincere desire to comply/conform with existing statutes/ordinances.

If your parcel is in an 'overlay district,' do whatever you can to fully-comply with the additional requirements found in the ordinances regarding this. Typical overlay districts would be for historic preservation, or certain commercial usages in that type of zoning.

If you read the zoning code, you can discover what the ordinances are to-which you will need to-comply. For instance, say the buffer for notice of a proposed variance is 1,000 ft. The GIS software that the city planners will use to generate the list of RPO's (registered property owners) to be notified is something that you may be able to do on your own, off the property owner's tax rolls. You could take the step of canvassing those people yourself and requesting them to sign a form letter for 'no-objection' for the proposed scope of development. Be aware that people raising objections to your plans don't need to-be from someone owning property within the 1,000 ft. buffer specified in the ordinance. Someone living miles-from your parcel could show-up at the hearing(s) and object to the scope of project. They may-be a city hall political gadfly who is a frequent speaker against any and all variance requests, because after-all, "rules are rules!."

Investigate what people who are going to be making the decisions have as pet-interests. Maybe one of the decision-makers is partial to butterfly gardens, or xeriscape. Look to incorporate those designs in your proposal.

Sometimes the consulting fee with a firm or attorney, planner, architect, or GC may prove to be the best money you can spend, because they can inform you that under the current leadership, you dream plan isn't likely to pass-muster. Sad, but many-times, true. Good luck.
 

Matt M PA

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Mt. Holly height definition:

Great info for the OP. When I built my garage, our TWP used the same definition. I believe in our case, they called is "median height".

Yet, it seems the OP wants the walls higher than the allowable height.

FWIW, my garage was built with trusses that allow for a lift over that bay, but my sidewalls are only 10". I can lift a car on the midsize with that height, and the 4 post goes up into the vaulted part of the ceiling. I can even lift the Excursion if I back it in...although not quite to full height.
 
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laser3kw

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TIP! Answer questions only and DO NOT volunteer anything because once these zoning boards get you going they don’t stop.
example:
Can you tell me what time it is?
answer: yes
do not go any further and tell them it is ** o'clock, how the watch works, that you're synch'd to the national atomic clock, blah, blah, blah

Example 2:
what do you plan on doing that you need such a tall building?
wrong answer: I want to run a business out of there. I plan work and make noise till 2:00am.
FWIW, my garage was built with trusses that allow for a lift over that bay, but my sidewalls are only 10". I can lift a car on the midsize with that height, and the 4 post goes up into the vaulted part of the ceiling. I can even lift the Excursion if I back it in...although not quite to full height.

I did this also. Scissor trusses over lift area, attic trusses over work area - that gives you storage above and the floor is engineered for that use.
 
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Chuckster in NJ

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Mt. Holly height definition:

READ THIS^^^

This zoning code reflects the International Code and is pretty "generous" as far as the height goes........ Unlike some other towns that go to the peak.

SIMPLE! This means the measurement is NOT to the peak. Do your homework and draw this out with the pole barn builder and see what the measurement will be and design trusses for maximum INTERIOR height. (EG: Scissor or Low Profile Trusses)
 
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Joelfke

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READ THIS^^^

This zoning code reflects the International Code and is pretty "generous" as far as the height goes........ Unlike some other towns that go to the peak.

SIMPLE! This means the measurement is NOT to the peak. Do your homework and draw this out with the pole barn builder and see what the measurement will be and design trusses for maximum INTERIOR height. (EG: Scissor or Low Profile Trusses)

This is excellent, I wanted a 14ft side wall and have storage, i guess the storage is out. Talking with a couple pole barn companies they do offer 2:12 pitch and if i make the walls 12ft (making the overall height 14' it would pass the allowable height maximum because of the halfway from truss height to floor. Unless im doing that math wrong.

This would allow for a lift and thus give me the main thing i want.
 

Chuckster in NJ

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I used Pioneer Pole Building and they were very good to deal with because they do everything including the slab....... NO BS games.

Here is what I suggest to do.
1) Get zoning approval FIRST otherwise you are just wasting time.
2) Hire a pole barn builder...... CHECK REFERENCES and insurance certificate.
3) Obtain soils approval...... Easy to do if you are under 5000sf of disturbance.
4) Apply for building permits with the CONTRACTORS name and license #.
5) Call NJ Dig hotline and get a dig number (800)272-1000
6) Grade the area and start building.
7) Call for a footing, slab and final inspections.
8) DO NOT pay in full until you get a final Certificate of Approval.

TIP! DO NOT sign the building permits if you have a contractor doing the work..... TRUST ME on this one!!!

BTW! You will also need sealed plans by a NJ licensed architect for your building permit...... A good builder knows this and will get this done for you. (Of course at an additional fee)
 
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Joelfke

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I used Pioneer Pole Building and they were very good to deal with because they do everything including the slab....... NO BS games.

Here is what I suggest to do.
1) Get zoning approval FIRST otherwise you are just wasting time.
2) Hire a pole barn builder...... CHECK REFERENCES and insurance certificate.
3) Obtain soils approval...... Easy to do if you are under 5000sf of disturbance.
4) Apply for building permits with the CONTRACTORS name and license #.
5) Call NJ Dig hotline and get a dig number (800)272-1000
6) Grade the area and start building.
7) Call for a footing, slab and final inspections.
8) DO NOT pay in full until you get a final Certificate of Approval.

TIP! DO NOT sign the building permits if you have a contractor doing the work..... TRUST ME on this one!!!

BTW! You will also need sealed plans by a NJ licensed architect for your building permit...... A good builder knows this and will get this done for you. (Of course at an additional fee)

Most of the places (including PPB) that i contacted for quotes had prices for sealed plans. Not sure why they have to be sealed but whatever. Some places don't install it, which is a pain so ill have to make sure i get someone who will do everything. Im in the zoning approval stage, hence the questions but I was planning on doing similar to what you suggest. Thank you
 
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egdede

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Dec 20, 2009
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2,098
TIP! DO NOT sign the building permits if you have a contractor doing the work..... TRUST ME on this one!!!

All of his advice was good, but this is worth its weight in gold. And, don't make the last payment until your inspector has signed off on everything.
 

yeldogt

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Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
18,184
My recommendation to spend $500 and find a land use attorney -- was not to hire. Rather -- you ask the hows and the whats. Some attorneys will tell you upfront w/o any payment. Forget it ... or this is possible.

Hardship is ... I had a fire and I want to rebuild and my property/building does not fit into any of the regulations today. I have a pool and the regulations say I need a 6' fence and it can only get here.

Also with proper roof design you can get a lift in the center w/o going above 10' walls
 

Chuckster in NJ

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Jan 26, 2010
Messages
2,311
Location
Hunterdon County NJ
Not sure why they have to be sealed but whatever.

As per NJ UCC the plans must be sealed by a NJ Licensed Architect. The reason is because you are dealing with trusses that are subject to wind and snow loads and there are many types of truss configurations so a qualified "design professional" must do the design and take responsibility for the design...... The NJ seal and license number proves he/she is qualified and in good standing.
The sealed plans are "insurance" (and to your benefit) the design will hold up under severe conditions and your homeowners insurance company relies on the permit process and inspections that the building will be constructed properly to MINIMUM standards.
Once every page of the plans have been sealed, YOU (the owner) cannot make changes to the plans...... Only the architect can make changes.

BTW! You can always move 50 miles west into Pennsylvania and you won’t be required to submit sealed plans. :lol_hitti
 

paredown

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Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
545
Location
Pomona, NY
As per NJ UCC the plans must be sealed by a NJ Licensed Architect. The reason is because you are dealing with trusses that are subject to wind and snow loads and there are many types of truss configurations so a qualified "design professional" must do the design and take responsibility for the design...... The NJ seal and license number proves he/she is qualified and in good standing.
The sealed plans are "insurance" (and to your benefit) the design will hold up under severe conditions and your homeowners insurance company relies on the permit process and inspections that the building will be constructed properly to MINIMUM standards.
Once every page of the plans have been sealed, YOU (the owner) cannot make changes to the plans...... Only the architect can make changes.

BTW! You can always move 50 miles west into Pennsylvania and you won’t be required to submit sealed plans. :lol_hitti
Interesting--in Mew York we can get the truss manufacturers to send their engineered and stamped drawings directly to the building department as an addendum--but as you say, we needed our architect to approve the change in writing from rafters to trusses (modifying original plan).
 

yeldogt

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
18,184
As per NJ UCC the plans must be sealed by a NJ Licensed Architect. The reason is because you are dealing with trusses that are subject to wind and snow loads and there are many types of truss configurations so a qualified "design professional" must do the design and take responsibility for the design...... The NJ seal and license number proves he/she is qualified and in good standing.
The sealed plans are "insurance" (and to your benefit) the design will hold up under severe conditions and your homeowners insurance company relies on the permit process and inspections that the building will be constructed properly to MINIMUM standards.
Once every page of the plans have been sealed, YOU (the owner) cannot make changes to the plans...... Only the architect can make changes.

BTW! You can always move 50 miles west into Pennsylvania and you won’t be required to submit sealed plans. :lol_hitti


Trust me .... Solebury and Buckingham is every bit as bad. I have owned various weekend places along the Delaware for 25 years .... it's impossible.

I love Solebury ... but ... not when you want to build.
 

yeldogt

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Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
18,184
Interesting--in Mew York we can get the truss manufacturers to send their engineered and stamped drawings directly to the building department as an addendum--but as you say, we needed our architect to approve the change in writing from rafters to trusses (modifying original plan).


That's why it's so important to understand what required ... getting the information upfront. People spend all amounts of time and energy when they are going to have to pay someone to do planes anyway.

I told one of my neighbor this when he wanted to add on to the back of his house .. first he designed a "box" that would pass the zoning. But, he was doing all this figuring and layout as an amateur ... get the professionals in early. The added cost in minimal ... especially, if you can find a retired guy in the area.
 
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