No leak plumbing

[akerswater]

Ez-duzit
That leak lock work gr8,do u use it dry on threads or thread tape with a light coat of leak lock compound? I know everyone has there own methods and products they really swear by. I have had gr8 success with thread tape and Oateys great white joint compound. I picked this tip up in one of my plumbing mechanical magazines. I see the leak lock at supply house may have to try it. thnx akers

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[akerswater]

Toes
Most of are work is outdoors, we specialize in water service replacement and side sewer repair. The red brass fittings i'm referring to are basic 90s,45s, tee's etc. As of jan. 1st these are all going lead free, and have been noticing the lead free is much harder. Not sure where to stop when tightening, with the lead they're more pliable and softer. The real test is how will this material hold up when temperatures drop and the molicules condense, will they split as they are not as pliable? I'm use to standard torque methods with the leaded fittings but haven't quite found my spot with the new lead free products. Many manufacturers are working on this but are not clear as they are changing the alloys in there products to accomidate these new laws and requirements. The ford, mueller and Ay mcdonald pack joint compression fittings haven't posed any problems for us.
thnx akers
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[ez-duzit]

water--always use Leak Lock by itself.

 

[Doozer75]

Ever use Loctite PST pipe sealant?
I have never had this stuff leak.

Yes I love RectorSeal 5 but even occasionally
I have had it leak. The Loctite PST is expensive
but it is really wonderful stuff. If I was plumbing
something where if I did have a leak, and that
would mean taking a ton of stuff apart to replace
the leaky fitting, then I would use PST for sure.
I think they make Loctite 567 which is the same
thing, but it is gasoline compatible.

--Doozer

 

[akerswater]

I'll try that leak lock for sure, sounds like a winner. We use tons of brass fittings annually "literally" and thats alot of connections, so far my methods been wrking gr8.
thnx guys akers

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[littletoes]

I've used "Real-Tuff" for years. Try it if you can, without teflon. You'll find you don't need teflon anymore, except for the rare occasions when dealing with torn threads. Experience will teach you how tight things need to be.

Funny thing, I find more people over-tightening things more often than under tightening them. Find a leak, what do you do? You give it another turn....take a 6" or 8" butterfly valve for example, even with 3/4" bolts, they only tighten to about 26 foot pounds.

Anything more than that, and you crush the body of valve, and it will leak. Especially with glycol.
I called Milwaukee Valve Corp. years ago and asked them what to torque the bolts too, the engineer told me whatever the bolt size demands....I then asked him "really? So, about 200 lbs or so?" He then said "Oh GOSH NO!". Ever since that day, they now include bolt/torque specs with the larger valves. Awesome....I got through to somebody.
For years I've been writing McDonald Miller about their flow switches that come with 1" pipe threads.....ever notice how they won't fit through a 1" pipe thread???? How are you supposed to attach them through a 1" thread-o-let?? Or a saddle fitting? Ya' can't. Now they make 'em slimmer and they will slide in.

Write letters guys....eventually folks will read them.

Think about it, that's nothing.

Here's a link to what I use. Yes, it has teflon in it, but it doesn't effect thread engagement like tape-folks use way too much tape. It works better than any Rector Seal product I've ever used, including #5, the yellow stuff or the black stuff.
Lock-Tight is exactly what its listed as. It was designed for use in refrigeration piping, due to the vibration that may shake flare fittings apart. Talk to experienced "frige-fitters", they'll warn you against using it. Nuff said?

http://www.oatey.com/products/thread-sealants/pipe-thread-sealants/real-tuff

 

[Jazz]

has anyone used the push on style valves and fitting for water service. I am doing some bathroom work currently and I'm likely going to use brased fitting since I have PEX with copper connections for the valves. Anyone prefer the push on stuff (Sharkbite)?

 

[littletoes]

I've used them, but they are so expensive per fitting, I'd say it might be cheaper to go with pex itself, or wirsbo. I've only used the brass fittings though. Years and years ago there was a huge lawsuit due to the plastic pex fittings failing (cracking and breaking).

The sharkbite fittings are expensive, but (even with my limited experience with them), they do work.

There is a lawsuit in Vegas over wirsbo;
http://www.lasvegassun.com/news/2009/feb/23/plumbing-problems-may-continue-grow/

 

[akerswater]

Toes
Hey thnx for both those links, the oateys "real tuff" has been wrking for you, with no problems? Yes i am familiar with a drip from time to time, and the easy solution is to tighten more. Your absolutely correct on the fact that most people crank it tighter,but thats not the solution. I cant begin to tell you how many repairs we do and find the fittings split as a result of "way overtightening" or in other words bottoming out the threads. When overtightening people don't understand what actually takes place with the molicules in the alloys. it puts extra stress on that fitting and give it alittle time, drop in tempurature and it fails. As temperatures drop the alloys condense actually tightening more and they stretch beyond there maximum capacity. I've found when purchasing our fittings its always a good idea especially with import fittings to check the collars on the female side for proper thickness. You'll find the cheap ones especially those made in Indonesia and many chinese ones very thin. Its basic math that these will eventually fail even with proper torque not to mention alittle overtorque. I've also found problems with the machine thread on american Nibco fittings aswell. If the fitting bottoms out and its not tight there a problem with the threads overcut. I remember bringing back a brass fitting and the supply house looked at me as though i was crazy. It happens all the time, never rule out that machinist are human to. A quick dry fit of parts will tell this.

thnx again Toes akers


Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[arms1970]

If you guys have something that works for you, great. All I can say is that I've been doing my own plumbing for 30 years now, and all I use is the thick pink teflon tape, 2-3 wraps. No dope, nothing else. Never had a leak at a threaded joint. This includes completely replumbing our old log house, our tenant house, two barns, my shop, and all the underground piping in between.

By the way, I use the same technique on all NPT joints, including pneumatic, gasoline, and vacuum. Never had a leak.

Try that on 2225PSI