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No locking NEMA 50A 250V plug or receptacle?

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alfredeneuman

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LXCam,

The plug that's shown is an old non-NEMA configuration, for replacement purposes only.
It should not be used in a new installation.
 

rlitman

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Sure they do, trade name is a bayonet style or if you really want to drop some cash get a sleeve and pin. Let me see if I can find you the part number.

Here's what it looks like. But you'll find these are rated 120/240, typical of the L14-50 style but in twist lock form.

http://images.fruitridgetools.com/Images/L7765-C-EA-NOBOX-2.JPG

That's a "California Standard" plug. There are all sorts of "CS" plugs in 50A configurations. They were an industry standard before NEMA, so the NEMA 50A locking plugs were never adopted.

Male Inlet Amps Voltage Poles/Wire
CS6370 50A 125V 2 Pole, 3 Wire
CS6369 50A 125/250V 3 Pole, 4 Wire
CS8269 50A 250V 2 Pole, 3 Wire
CS8469 50A 480V 2 Pole, 3 Wire
CS8369 50A 250V 3 Pole, 4 Wire
CS8169 50A 480V 3 Pole, 4 Wire

Twist_Lock_50AMPOUTLET.jpg
 
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Strouty

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I thought the idea was things were supposed to be hard wired at that amperage? I would use an appliance style plug they rarely pull apart by accident.
 

rlitman

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I thought the idea was things were supposed to be hard wired at that amperage? I would use an appliance style plug they rarely pull apart by accident.

California standard plugs were designed for the movie industry. High loads for temporary movable lighting for example. Also used in mining (for smaller stuff), and I use them daily in a data center.
 

Strouty

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California standard plugs were designed for the movie industry. High loads for temporary movable lighting for example. Also used in mining (for smaller stuff), and I use them daily in a data center.

If they are standard, why so many configurations?

Stupidity took over on that one, I did not read all the voltages.
 

alfredeneuman

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That particular plug linked to was rated at 250Volt DC and 600Volts AC.
The original goal for NEMA was to provide a standard and get rid of the dual ratings, and eliminate the problem of plugging in equipment to the wrong voltage.
None of the configurations used today are dual rating.

EDIT: I took the line that said:
"Here's what it looks like. But you'll find these are rated 120/240, typical of the L14-50 style but in twist lock form."
......and took it literally. I added that to it between "these" and "are",and it made more sense.

Sorry for being :tard:
 
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Norcal

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Isn't it obvious? Look at his signature picture. Beaker wasn't getting enough juice at 30 amps so he's going to try 50!

:lol_hitti

So use 200 or 400A pin and sleeve devices.:lol: :lol_hitti :evil:



The prices would make anyone choke though.
 

LXCam

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LXCam,

The plug that's shown is an old non-NEMA configuration, for replacement purposes only.
It should not be used in a new installation.

You do realize that the CS6369 50A 125/250V 3 Pole, 4 Wire is the standard for temporary power distribution boxes. OP asked for a twist lock 50amp unit. All those configurations meet UL acceptance standards, so I'd luv to hear why they can't be used.
 
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bczygan

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You do realize that the CS6369 50A 125/250V 3 Pole, 4 Wire is the standard for temporary power distribution boxes. OP asked for a twist lock 50amp unit. All those configurations meet UL acceptance standards, so I'd luv to hear why they can't be used.

Yes,
I'm looking for a standard I can use for a welder or other higher amp machine.

But I'm looking for pricing closer to big box stores.

The NEMA 30A 250V locking outlet and plug at Lowes were each about $20.

Anything close to that? Also looking for a solution that does not have a shell sticking out of the wall.

Bill

And yes, I'm rigging something up for Tampa/Beeker...

Electric_chair.jpg
 
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alfredeneuman

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You do realize that the CS6369 50A 125/250V 3 Pole, 4 Wire is the standard for temporary power distribution boxes. OP asked for a twist lock 50amp unit. All those configurations meet UL acceptance standards, so I'd luv to hear why they can't be used.

Yes, I realize that. As a matter of fact I own a couple of them.

I already answered your question in post #8, but I'll repeat myself.

"That particular plug linked to was rated at 250Volt DC and 600Volts AC.
The original goal for NEMA was to provide a standard and get rid of the dual ratings, and eliminate the problem of plugging in equipment to the wrong voltage.
None of the configurations used today are dual rating."

125/250 is not a dual rating because it is derived from a single system, unlike 600V AC and 250V DC.

http://image.frompo.com/c807c463202e92b851570d53601fa9aa
 
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sberry

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Bill. I have spun off over the years but finding myself now always trying to fit closer to standard. A common welder uses a 6-50-P, that's what comes on them. Not that other stuff wouldn't work but why make it queer.
 

sberry

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I assume this is your own garage. Run a wire you need to a 4x4 box, Det 25 ft of 1/2 flesx and some connectors, buy a recept the right rating as you get a new piece if it comes factory cord, like a water heater some of it can be hard wired, in your garage the panel is local for a means of disconnect.
I use simple off the shelf. I really don't own anything I use that would overload a 10 wire.
 

sberry

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Evn Kirk the railer builder who I believe uses a 252 wont overheat a 10. Some of the real 250 class feeders required an 8 which is why a commercial cord is number 8. All the rest of the equipment comes with a number 12,, same cord on the 200 mig as a Stickmate.
Code was a pusher to work on the MVP, because it left the cord and end up to the installer, now its all plug and play. Not left to the end user to determine size they way most dedicated equipment is above 50A circuits etc.
This is a generalization of course.
The small welder only needs a 14 cord but comes 12 due to the fact we can now use a circuit to 50A, machine has a double pole switch to completely disconnect it, thermal following that to protect incoming wire and smaller components after that. Think Christmas lights and power strips.
 

sberry

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I can assure Bill he wont burn the joint down with a buzzer or small feeder on a piece of 10 Romex. Things are even safer than ever due to reduced loads. Circuits used to see buzzers now see half that from feeders and many specs remain the same while the voltage has went up 20. The number 10 feeding your buzzer now sees closer to 40A than 45. If you have a DC model the math is even better, maye as low as 38 with a 1/8 lo hi.
About the same as a 250 feeder running all it can be 035/c25.
 

sberry

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I saw a guy build an asphalt tanker from a power pole in the backyard with a 12 romex to a buzzer he wheeled out when he wanted to work on it.
 

offroadsteve

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I've always wondered why the 50 amp 120/240V twist-locks were different compared to basically everything else... thanks for the info all. I learned my new thing today.

To the OP - No, I've never seen anything that could be classified as "affordable" for locking plugs / receptacles above 30 amps. And that said, I consider the $25-$30 they charge for 30 amps stuff to be highway robbery, but that's the price.

You should see some of the stuff we use here at work... everything from 30 amp, 125 volt all the way to 4160 volts at 400 amps.... talk about crazy!
 

knobby

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Lucky for the OP that he is in the Detroit area if he were to check CL there are plenty of 50A and up pin and sleeve connectors for near scrap value.
I recently acquired 2 pair of 600V 50A NOS connectors complete with 2 back boxes for $50.
 

sberry

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I am sure a guy could find a deal if he looked hard enough but I believe this is for a common home garage, there really isn't any reason to spin off from standard.
 
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