Non-contact voltage testers

[Coach James]

I tried the search feature, etc. and the most recent thread was almost 4 years ago. I got a NCVT along with some other stuff recently from a friend selling a batch of stuff. This one is a Southwire, still in the package. I finally tried it tonight and was not impressed. It was inconsistent at showing outlets being live or not. Sometimes it would give different response to the same outlet.

Is it normal for all NCVT's to do this, this one is just defective or are other brands much better?

Coach

 

[bonneyman]

I haven't had very many NCV testers but most stand-alone versions I've seen are about the same. They are not bad, never had false readings with mine, and thinking the next multimeter I get I'll make sure has the NCV feature.

 

[englishsam]

Have a standalone fluke one and it never gives a dodgy reading.

 

[Rabid Badger]

If you put fresh batteries in it and it can't reliably tell if an outlet is live it's defective.

 

[victor252]

I found this video very informative. It's important to know the limitations of our equipment.

 

[unslow1]

I found this video very informative. It's important to know the limitations of our equipment.

Thanks for sharing the video. I didn't know about the water affecting it.

To the OP: I have a few of these including a couple of the Southwire. I've never really noticed much difference between them.

 

[jayrush13]

Probably just a defective tester. I an electrician by trade and only use fluke non contact testers. Also you need to know it's limitations and never use it if safety is a factor. I mainly use mine for troubleshooting and preliminary tests.

 

[bmxr4life87]

My Klein clamp meter has a NCV feature which is kinda nice for me doing field work but I'm not an electrician per se

 

[DFB]

I actually have two of the pen type testers, One I bought ages ago from Radio Shack of all places when they weren't all that common for most people. At the time I had a house with a lot of old 2 wire circuits. My first time ever using or seeing one I had borrowed from an shop electrician at work had to be over 30 years ago now

More recently I bought a Uni Trend NCVT during a phase of purchasing some of that brand's test equipment like DMM's.

The Uni trend in all respects looks so similar name certain branded ones. They both work fine but I do think the RS one is a bit more sensitive when responding

 

[WVBrady]

Probably just a defective tester. I an electrician by trade and only use fluke non contact testers. Also you need to know it's limitations and never use it if safety is a factor. I mainly use mine for troubleshooting and preliminary tests.

Please read #5 and watch the video.

 

[WVBrady]

I found this video very informative. It's important to know the limitations of our equipment.

Here is a video that shows how the detector works.

https://www.electricalknowledge.com/electricians-tools/how-does-a-non-contact-voltage-tester-work/

 

[theoldwizard1]

Funniest thing. I bought my son an outlet polarity/ground tester and a NCVT when he got his first house. A few months later, he called and want to know if I had another one because his buddy, an apprentice electrician, said it wasn't working. I went over with mine to find out that they did not know you had to squeeze the pocket clip to turn it on !

 

[frankush]

Normal? I hate to say it, but most of them are junk. I use one everyday. I probably tossed more than most folks. The only one I buy these days are made buy Santronics. The made the Fluke branded version when they were still made in the US. Those were decent. The chinese made Flukes shouldn't have the Fluke name. I also haven't had any luck with Kleins.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPZ06QQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Even these don't last forever. I usually pick them up 3 at a time so if I toss one, I have another on hand. Last time I purchased they were still USA. They get goofy every so often, but generally clear up. Most get pitched because of rough handling or leaky batteries.

 

[engineer2]

I use the Greenlee GT-16 with adjustable sensitivity, and like it.
(putting flak jacket on) Had the Fluke and didn't like it. Very inconsistent and the manual didn't explain why the light would rapidly blink sometimes (not the same as the self-test). Maybe I had a bad one.

BTW, never trust you life with these. The will show the presence of voltage but may not always show the absence. I always grab the bare wires to make sure, LOL.

 

[klassenl]

We call them death sticks at our shop

 

[kngelv]

We call them death sticks at our shop

Same.

James

 

[BQuicksilver]

I've had 3.

Favorite: Greenlee
Current One: Fluke - decent
Avoid: Klein - lots of odd readings

 

[rlitman]

I've had 3.

Favorite: Greenlee
Current One: Fluke - decent
Avoid: Klein - lots of odd readings

I've had both Fluke and Klein, and both worked equally well for me, though I prefer my Klein. ALL of these will give a phantom reading when jolted. If they don't, they're dead. It's just the nature of how they work.

As for what I prefer, I like one where I can tell when it's on and the battery is good. My Fluke had no indication of this. Still, I don't inherently trust any of these. Always test them on known power with every use.

 

[BMack37]

I've had 3.

Favorite: Greenlee
Current One: Fluke - decent
Avoid: Klein - lots of odd readings

Agreed, the Klein is garbage. I have a Southwire Dual Range NCV and as long as you understand it's limitations, and after hundreds of times using it, it's NEVER been wrong. I still call it the death stick, always confirm with a DMM if you're going to touch a circuit.

I'm a Fluke fanboy but the Southwire has been soo good that I haven't bought the Fluke.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Agreed, the Klein is garbage. I have a Southwire Dual Range NCV and as long as you understand it's limitations, and after hundreds of times using it, it's NEVER been wrong. I still call it the death stick, always confirm with a DMM if you're going to touch a circuit.

I'm a Fluke fanboy but the Southwire has been soo good that I haven't bought the Fluke.

Timing is everything . . .

I pulled my Klein from the bag yesterday while checking my attic fan wiring. It had condensation in the "nose" and the batteries were dead. I put new batteries in and it wasn't sensing power anywhere.

I"m in the market for a replacement so I'll check out the Southwire . . .

Cheers

Jim

 

[bmwrd0]

I have a couple Kleins, they work well for me. One exception is that I own an older house with lots of funky remodel wiring (110 YO house, not uncommon) so I do get a lot of ghost voltage readings. They are cheap enough that I keep one in my truck and one in my tool tote. I would avoid anything Southwire, I never got a good feeling from that stuff.

 

[jayrush13]

Please read #5 and watch the video.

I read that and watched the video. I use mine like I said for troubleshooting. If it is a circuit that someone is going to work on a solenoid powered tester like a knopp tester or wiggy is the only thing that should be used to verify.

I have used one of these daily for over 15 years probably went through 30-50 of them. Fluke is the ones I use. I may try the santronics one next since that old style fluke is one of my favorites they don't make anymore. The most important part of these is to know their limitations and use accordingly.

 

[BMack37]

I have a couple Kleins, they work well for me. One exception is that I own an older house with lots of funky remodel wiring (110 YO house, not uncommon) so I do get a lot of ghost voltage readings. They are cheap enough that I keep one in my truck and one in my tool tote. I would avoid anything Southwire, I never got a good feeling from that stuff.

Both companies get their test equipment made by companies based in China. What makes you think Klein is better despite you getting false readings with your Klein and never trying the Southwire?

 

[jayrush13]

Agreed, the Klein is garbage. I have a Southwire Dual Range NCV and as long as you understand it's limitations, and after hundreds of times using it, it's NEVER been wrong. I still call it the death stick, always confirm with a DMM if you're going to touch a circuit.

I'm a Fluke fanboy but the Southwire has been soo good that I haven't bought the Fluke.

Using a multimeter to confirm is just as bad as using a non contact tester. You should use a solenoid powered tester like a knopp or wiggy. Since they use the voltage off the circuit to get their power they are way less likely to give you false readings.

 

[rlitman]

Using a multimeter to confirm is just as bad as using a non contact tester. You should use a solenoid powered tester like a knopp or wiggy. Since they use the voltage off the circuit to get their power they are way less likely to give you false readings.

They can also blow up in your face, and do not carry Cat IV ratings for this reason.

 

[Robinson1]

I've been using a Southwire for a couple years. It replaced a Klein that went missing and the Klein replaced a Gardner Bender that someone gave me. They all work within their limitations. Nice for checking things after energizing a circuit. Also useful for trouble shooting various things. I dont trust them to confirm power is off and this coming from someone who has NEVER had a false "no power" reading. That being said they have a bad habit of picking up phantom voltage and can read hot when the circuit is in fact dead. Especially the for lights wired on 3 and 4 way switches.

 

[theoldwizard1]

One exception is that I own an older house with lots of funky remodel wiring (110 YO house, not uncommon) so I do get a lot of ghost voltage readings.

What you need is a meter with a low impedance setting, less than 1KΩ maybe even 500Ω. I know they exist, but I can not give you a reference. (You can't have "ghost voltage" when your pulling at least a couple hundred milliamps !)

 

[rlitman]

What you need is a meter with a low impedance setting, less than 1KΩ maybe even 500Ω. I know they exist, but I can not give you a reference. (You can't have "ghost voltage" when your pulling at least a couple hundred milliamps !)

Those resistance numbers are not realistic, but low impedance meters do exist. I'd suggest any decent analog meter, and would use my old Simpson.

 

[Rabid Badger]

The Fluke 117 has a Low-Z mode and non-contact voltage detection. It's a great meter to have around for general electrical work.

 

[toplessHO]

Southwire is a low end product
Buy a good one like a fluke or Klein.
Always test on known hot source(safely of course)
before testing on what youre working on.

I believe I used one of the first to be manufactured.
It was 1973 and was given this one as a Beta test version
made by a company in Miami called TIF industries.
It was about the size of a cigarette pack with a wand that protruded
out which had a V shaped end. The wire was to be placed in the V.
I tried it on an 120v outlet and it couldnt pick up the hot from the outlet face.
Todays models can. This was very useful for the work I was doing,troubleshooting golf course irrigation systems.
I could grab a handful of wires in the ditch(usually all were red) and find the wire I needed because it was hot.
TIF also made some good instruments and later saw one that utility workers used for high voltage work that was stick mounted.

 

[64merc]

I love them, but I always use 2 different models (for redundancy), and try to test them on a known live circuit first. I have a GB brand and a Sperry.

 

[Steve_P]

I have the Fluke. I actually just bought a new one as the crappy OE batteries leaked and ruined my first one which has sat a few yrs. I also always use a DMM to verify. I'm not an electrician but have worked in industrial settings for 30 yrs and a DMM is their standard for verification. I don't recall ever seeing anything else used.

 

[Hendoje]

I use a fluke, pretty reliable but would never put all my faith in it. We use a modiewark at work to check anything from 240v to 22kv.

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[Tonyuk]

I remember buying one years ago when i was going to wire some new lights in the house.

I switched off the supply to the lights on the 1st floor (So i thought), tested with the tool, seemed good to i started to cut into the wire. It was live, got a shock, binned it.

Haven't trusted them since.

I like the screwdriver testers though.

 

[Stephenw]

I have the Fluke 1AC-A1-II. It works very well.

The rule to verify that a circuit is de-energized applies to all test equipment, from a non-contact tester, to a multimeter...

First test a known energized circuit, then test the circuit you will be working on, and then test a known energized circuit again.

Controlling stored energy, a.k.a. lockout/tagout. Professionals are required to be trained.

 

[justanengineer]

I bought a Southwire on sale for ~$10 IIRC and it gave both false positives and false negatives frequently enough that I tossed it and spent a bit more for a Klein with good results.


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[mc4life27]

I tried the search feature, etc. and the most recent thread was almost 4 years ago. I got a NCVT along with some other stuff recently from a friend selling a batch of stuff. This one is a Southwire, still in the package. I finally tried it tonight and was not impressed. It was inconsistent at showing outlets being live or not. Sometimes it would give different response to the same outlet.



Is it normal for all NCVT's to do this, this one is just defective or are other brands much better?



Coach

I have used all kinds of different ones from fluke to southwire to Klein to huskey ro greenlee to sperry and I think they all ****. I don’t trust them at all. My favorite lately has been the Klein et-40. It’s a little volt meter that works with dc and ac it’s small and does the job and always keep one with me. I also have other meters but I use this one to get the job started


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