Folks, I am interested in suggestions for a non-greasy rust inhibitor for my wood working machinery. I'm very well aware of BOE Shield and Fluid Film. Both are excellent in the right context, I use them extensively on trailer parts, tractor parts etc. The problem with them is that they are so thick. I actually use my table saw quite a bit and am not fond of cleaning 1/8 inch of butter off of it prior to use. I started using WD40 but it's the opposite, seems to disappear after a week or less. I hear rumor that Johnson paste wax may work, can anyone confirm? Any other suggestion? Thanks in advance.
Non Greasy rust inhibitor
- Thread starter jhendric
- Start date
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
renaissance wax is what some museums use I believe.
CGarage
Well-known member
Amsoil MP HD spray.
I use the Johnson paste wax on ALL cast iron in my shop - do NOT use car wax, most have silicone. The first time you get a screwed up finish you'll know better next time...
My PM66 has the long table extension, I added an overarm dust collector (still need more improvements for better dust control) - the overarm makes a great "ridge pole" for one of these
I put a couple 100W bulbs in clamp fixtures UNDER the table area, keeps the metal surfaces above dew point - works really well. Sorry, no pics with the cover on. Those covers come in several sizes, got 'em in a couple different places and they work well... Steve
My PM66 has the long table extension, I added an overarm dust collector (still need more improvements for better dust control) - the overarm makes a great "ridge pole" for one of these
I put a couple 100W bulbs in clamp fixtures UNDER the table area, keeps the metal surfaces above dew point - works really well. Sorry, no pics with the cover on. Those covers come in several sizes, got 'em in a couple different places and they work well... Steve
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seber
Well-known member
I also use paste wax. In addition I use it to protect my custom made knives. Here in the jungle it does and excellent job.
bob15
Well-known member
Use this:
or this
or this
rlitman
Well-known member
Fluid Film isn't so thick when you spray it on a rag and rub it in in WARM weather. In the cold, it's thicker than axle grease. But even so, I wouldn't put it on woodworking machines. The Johnson or Butcher's wax advice above is spot on.
The least greasy rust preventative treatment I've used is Eezox, but I can't say I've tried it on my cast iron tabletops.
The least greasy rust preventative treatment I've used is Eezox, but I can't say I've tried it on my cast iron tabletops.
Lee Valley sells special waxes for exactly this purpose. Not even terribly expensive. However, I bet any old carnauba car wax or ceramic protectant would likely have similar results.
I think Lee Valley's product is called "tool wax" or "conservator's wax", or something like that. They have two different tins with different names, same product inside (they aren't disguising this, I recall reading it in the description).
Edit: I didn't see BukitCase's comment my first skim through. Makes sense that some car waxes could have ingredients that don't play nice with some finishes. I presume a pure carnauba wax would be ok?
I think Lee Valley's product is called "tool wax" or "conservator's wax", or something like that. They have two different tins with different names, same product inside (they aren't disguising this, I recall reading it in the description).
Edit: I didn't see BukitCase's comment my first skim through. Makes sense that some car waxes could have ingredients that don't play nice with some finishes. I presume a pure carnauba wax would be ok?
RTM
Well-known member
I would go with Johnson's Paste Wax, or some other simple wax. I put mine on with grey or maroon scotch-brite pads, whatever is handy. I think pure Carnauba would be too hard, beeswax too sticky.
If you are doing long term storage, something a bit more robust like Boe-Shield might be in order, but paste wax after each use will be good for a month or more in reasonable weather conditions. If its just shy of raining in your garage due to humidity, you might need to step up.
If you put on paste wax, a quick wipe with paint thinner will remove it, in case you want to use your TS as an assembly area for finished work.
Avoid anything with silicone or petroleum products, as mentioned above, to avoid finishing problems.
If you are doing long term storage, something a bit more robust like Boe-Shield might be in order, but paste wax after each use will be good for a month or more in reasonable weather conditions. If its just shy of raining in your garage due to humidity, you might need to step up.
If you put on paste wax, a quick wipe with paint thinner will remove it, in case you want to use your TS as an assembly area for finished work.
Avoid anything with silicone or petroleum products, as mentioned above, to avoid finishing problems.
My shop is a converted pole barn, I built trusses in place and removed interior poles before pouring the slab - The tin roof was replaced with CDX (NOT 'Overly ****** Board), tar paper and 3-tab to match the house. (Added bonus - I now have to open the doors and look outside to know if it's raining) 
It's essentially unheated and is (so far) uninsulated. My "anti-rust" battle consists of the Johnson's on all cast iron surfaces, breathable dust covers, and the clamp lights I mentioned earlier - jointer(s) , a cast iron router table, milling machine, band saw(s) ALL get clamp lamps with mostly 100 watt (rough service grade) incandescents, some powered by speed controls (since it doesn't take a LOT to keep above dew point on a localized area) - long tables get TWO lamps, placed approximately on thirds.
All nicer/more delicate accessories reside in a dead 30 cu. ft. upright freezer, with an "outhouse" lamp socket in the bottom (another speed control takes the 100 watts down to about 30, keeps the inside temp around 75 in winter.)
NOTHING ever rusts in that (added a small vent on top)
Humidity isn't that low in this part of Oregon, but so far the worst I've seen is uncovering the PM66 after about 6 months of non-use, and finding 1 or 2 fingerprint size minor rust spots, easily buffed out with gray scotchbrite.
I attribute those results to the combination of the lamps keeping surfaces ABOVE dew point so they don't condense, a BREATHABLE cover to let any small vapors ESCAPE, and of course the wax.
After the first minor rust I made sure to do TWO coats of wax; problem has NOT happened a second time... Steve
Edit - Sorry Jrad, missed your Q - "
Johnson paste wax INGREDIENTS: Deodorized Naptha, Carnauba
Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Paraffin"
It's essentially unheated and is (so far) uninsulated. My "anti-rust" battle consists of the Johnson's on all cast iron surfaces, breathable dust covers, and the clamp lights I mentioned earlier - jointer(s) , a cast iron router table, milling machine, band saw(s) ALL get clamp lamps with mostly 100 watt (rough service grade) incandescents, some powered by speed controls (since it doesn't take a LOT to keep above dew point on a localized area) - long tables get TWO lamps, placed approximately on thirds.
All nicer/more delicate accessories reside in a dead 30 cu. ft. upright freezer, with an "outhouse" lamp socket in the bottom (another speed control takes the 100 watts down to about 30, keeps the inside temp around 75 in winter.)
NOTHING ever rusts in that (added a small vent on top)
Humidity isn't that low in this part of Oregon, but so far the worst I've seen is uncovering the PM66 after about 6 months of non-use, and finding 1 or 2 fingerprint size minor rust spots, easily buffed out with gray scotchbrite.
I attribute those results to the combination of the lamps keeping surfaces ABOVE dew point so they don't condense, a BREATHABLE cover to let any small vapors ESCAPE, and of course the wax.
After the first minor rust I made sure to do TWO coats of wax; problem has NOT happened a second time... Steve
Edit - Sorry Jrad, missed your Q - "
Johnson paste wax INGREDIENTS: Deodorized Naptha, Carnauba
Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Paraffin"
Last edited:
rlitman
Well-known member
RTM
Well-known member
True, but the distillates evaporate quickly.
Better clarity would have been “avoid petroleum products, or anything with silicone.”
the paste wax had naphtha in the old days, which flashed off quite quickly, compared to say paint thinner. Not sure what’s in it now.
I’ve seen guys slap old motor oil on a lathe. Not much different than cutting oil I guess.
Better clarity would have been “avoid petroleum products, or anything with silicone.”
the paste wax had naphtha in the old days, which flashed off quite quickly, compared to say paint thinner. Not sure what’s in it now.
I’ve seen guys slap old motor oil on a lathe. Not much different than cutting oil I guess.
bwringer
Well-known member
FWIW, I can't stand using Fluid Film even on stuff like wheel hubs. The stuff absolutely reeks of melted sheep.
Anyhoo, Evapo-Rust makes a water-based rust inhibitor spray called "Rust-Block" that seems promising and not greasy. I haven't tried it, but Evapo-Rust itself works as advertised, so I'd bet this stuff is pretty dang good.
www.evapo-rust.com
Anyhoo, Evapo-Rust makes a water-based rust inhibitor spray called "Rust-Block" that seems promising and not greasy. I haven't tried it, but Evapo-Rust itself works as advertised, so I'd bet this stuff is pretty dang good.
Evapo-Rust® Is The Super Safe Rust Remover - Stop Rust Today!
Evapo-Rust® - Super Safe Rust Removal is our priority. Evapo-Rust® is safe on skin, biodegradable, and easy to use. Just soak, rinse, and reuse!
www.evapo-rust.com
RTM
Well-known member
I have a spray bottle on the bench. Nothing negative so far. Use it after a Simple Green or Evaporust bath.
rlitman
Well-known member
LOL, my wife calls Fluid Film "sheep ****". I kinda like the smell. To each his own.