Not allowed to use cheater pipes, need help finding some long handled breaker bars

[RedneckWelder]

I'm tooling up for work as a heavy equipment mechanic, and found out I'm not allowed to use a cheater pipe, so my beloved 6 ft piece of pipe has to stay home.

Consequently, I need some long handled breaker bars (among other ****). One of the mechanics I work under has a nice long 1" drive bar but I don't like borrowing tools and I need my own anyway. I haven't seen any markings on it while using it though so I don't know who made it.

Unfortunately doesn't seem like any of the common tool companies wants make anything much longer than a 2 ft bar. Got any suggestions for something of decent quality? I'd like a good 1/2" bar and a good 1" drive bar (we can skip 3/4 for now), I'd like the 1" drive bar to be at least 36-40" long (and longer would be better) and I'd like the 1/2" drive bar to be at least 30+

 

[Zeke]

Weld the cheater pipe to a breaker bar and tell them it isn't a cheater anymore. It's custom tool. I think only aircraft mechanics can't have 'custom' tools.

 

[davethorik]

Snap On SN36
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=674897&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[bcradio]

3/4" drive 40" bar -- Titan

 

[RedneckWelder]

Weld the cheater pipe to a breaker bar and tell them it isn't a cheater anymore. It's custom tool. I think only aircraft mechanics can't have 'custom' tools.

Our safety guys don't smile upon that idea. Nobody in the shop cares if I use a cheater pipe but the safety dudes ding me...even though I've never, ever, had a problem with a cheater pipe (if anything it's saved me from smashing my hand against the piece of equipment in question by moving my hand well away from it, plus not to mention greatly reducing the force required to pop the bolt loose)

 

[RedneckWelder]

Snap On SN36
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=674897&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

3/4" drive 40" bar -- Titan

Thanks guys that really helps. I'll pick up a Titan soon and a Snap On when I get my student discount thing started.

 

[Wakefield]

I guess you know about the SN 36 ,it had a thread on here some months ago. I think its drive square is replaceable.
Wright's got a 42"(?) Railroad ratchet and a 30" "bull bar" in one inch

 

[WildwoodChuck]

MIT sold at shady shops 1" drive 42" long about 50 bucks. I have the 3/4" version

 

[unslow1]

This what I've been using. Looks like it might be the same manufacturer as the Titan.


http://www.ruralking.com/grip-tools...5&cadevice=c&gclid=CImlwLSQm78CFa4WMgoddG8AYw

 

[ttpete]

You could take a 1" sliding T handle and remove the bar, then replace it with a piece of 4130 as long as you want. You could even have it hard chromed to match the rest of the tool. Who's to know?

 

[sparky5982]

My go-to "breaker bar" is a Wright 6400. It can't be stopped. For even more balls, they make it in a 42" one piece version, in both 3/4 and 1" drive.

 

[RedneckWelder]

My go-to "breaker bar" is a Wright 6400. It can't be stopped. For even more balls, they make it in a 42" one piece version, in both 3/4 and 1" drive.

I may get one of these instead of a breaker bar for the 1" version. I am a HUGE fan of Wright tools but couldn't find any long breaker bars from them, guess they like ratchets instead...

 

[shampoop]

Our safety guys don't smile upon that idea. Nobody in the shop cares if I use a cheater pipe but the safety dudes ding me...even though I've never, ever, had a problem with a cheater pipe (if anything it's saved me from smashing my hand against the piece of equipment in question by moving my hand well away from it, plus not to mention greatly reducing the force required to pop the bolt loose)

That's what safety in the workplace is all about

Rules that make a passerby feel good. It doesn't matter if those rules actually put you in MUCH MORE danger as long as someone in an office feels good about the rule. If it sounds good on the surface that's all that matters. Lets not discuss whether or not it actually works.

 

[ladrones]

I would not be able to get rid of my fiberglass cheater.

 

[mrborohachi]

is there a soft grip handle version of the SO SN36 ?

 

[RedneckWelder]

Is a torque multiplier out of the question?

Never used one or even seen one, what's the lowdown? I doubt our safety guys would have a problem with them though.

That's what safety in the workplace is all about

Rules that make a passerby feel good. It doesn't matter if those rules actually put you in MUCH MORE danger as long as someone in an office feels good about the rule. If it sounds good on the surface that's all that matters. Lets not discuss whether or not it actually works.

While my co. is usually pretty good about safety requirements being sensible sometimes it does get a little "out there" IMHO but I'm not the one that makes the rules...I understand "why" they ban cheater pipes (to prevent the sketchier ones) but a good thick 6 ft long pipe is not one that's going to slip.

 

[JWILL]

Swench wrench! No seriously though I'm in the same boat here at the mine. No custom or modified tools of any kind. We have the Titan 3/4 drive 40 inch bar and its a decent bar.

 

[CZ_Greatwrench]

Get the detachable Snap On breaker bar head and make a long handle for it using bar stock or structural steel tube. Drill and tap into the bar stock or tube and put a bolt in thru the hole on the detachable head for where the spring button on a regular Snap On handle is.

Don't know how well this would work on 1" Dr but it works well on the 3/4" drive heads.

 

[Wakefield]

Get the detachable Snap On breaker bar head and make a long handle for it using bar stock or structural steel tube. Drill and tap into the bar stock or tube and put a bolt in thru the hole on the detachable head for where the spring button on a regular Snap On handle is.

Don't know how well this would work on 1" Dr but it works well on the 3/4" drive heads.

Would doing something like that with the head/drive for the one inch Wright Bull Bar work? Is that thing stronger than the breaker bar flex head? I think the Bull Bar head is available as a repair part. Does not have flex but is like a slider piece for a T bar handle but sturdier. (Compare the Wright bull bars to their slider handle sisters in the same drive size.)

(look at Wright Tool 8441 , Wright Tool 8444)

 

[James_B]

Never used one or even seen one, what's the lowdown? I doubt our safety guys would have a problem with them though.

I have an unbranded William Tools 11601 Torque Multiplier (identical to their 11603 model except it doesn't come with the blow moulded case). Cost me CAD$70 when it went on special.

It's pretty simple technology ... 4:1 ratio planetary gear set between a 1/2" square drive socket and a 3/4" drive. Put a 1/2" ratchet or breaker into the 1/2" socket, brace the reaction bar against something solid, and the 3/4" drive has 3.3 times the torque of the input ... 300 N-M in = 1000 N-M out.

As long as you can brace the reaction bar, then a 2 foot breaker bar and the torque multiplier is the equivalent to a 6 and a half foot long breaker bar. Mine has a rated upper limit of 1000 N-M (737.6 ft lb), but higher limit versions are available. The reaction bar has a quick release and an "L" shaped reaction bar is also available for different bracing options.



With a cheap 2 foot breaker bar, and the reaction bar braced against some wood, it was a gentle one hand operation to undo the 360 ft-lbs torqued 32mm axle nut on my Land Rover.

They'll also work fine (within about 5% accuracy) to torque up bolts past the capabilities of a standard torque wrench.

 

[CZ_Greatwrench]

Would doing something like that with the head/drive for the one inch Wright Bull Bar work? Is that thing stronger than the breaker bar flex head? I think the Bull Bar head is available as a repair part. Does not have flex but is like a slider piece for a T bar handle but sturdier. (Compare the Wright bull bars to their slider handle sisters in the same drive size.)

(look at Wright Tool 8441 , Wright Tool 8444)

It would work yes. But depends on the employer's pickiness about unmodified tools. Since the Snap On flex and ratchet heads are detachable... you're technically not modifying the tool itself (depending on employer). I looked at Wright's website. They list a 1"drive T handle repair kit (just the head), I would go that route instead of buying a new tool to destroy it and void the warranty.
Really depends on the employer's rules. If none of the tool can be "modified" what I would do is get a high quality head like the Wright and take it to either a machine shop or custom tool shop and have a handle made, as long as you want. Then...it shouldn't be "modified" technically, it's a custom machined tool!

 

[CZ_Greatwrench]

If this is a new job, just go with one of the suggested 40-42" bars depending your age and other physical factors and expected torque specs your expecting. A younger guy can easily break 500 ft lbs with a 42 after building some muscle memory. I wouldn't worry too much about a 6 ft bar until you're getting over 600 ft lbs. Plus, you might end up using air tools instead. I'd hold out on a custom 6 footer until you've seen what the job demands.

Torque multipliers are awesome to have! But not always handy depending on position of the fastener and usually not handy when working by yourself.

 

[619DioFan]

I have the titan tools 3/4 '' drive by 40 '' and one inch drive by 40'' breaker bars. very happy with them.

 

[Olafur]

What is the purpose of 2 foot 1" T bar if not to put a pipe on it?
I am not kidding - alone it is about as useful as a bottle jack without a handle.

 

[RedneckWelder]

What is the purpose of 2 foot 1" T bar if not to put a pipe on it?
I am not kidding - alone it is about as useful as a bottle jack without a handle.

While I agree, I'm not the one that makes the rules or the tools. I guess the purpose of the short bar is to fit neatly into the case which the set comes in vs. being actually useful by itself.

 

[Olafur]

While I agree, I'm not the one that makes the rules or the tools. I guess the purpose of the short bar is to fit neatly into the case which the set comes in vs. being actually useful by itself.

Yes, and I guess it is to complicated for the safety personnel to take this into consideration.
Probably nothing to do but bite the bullet and buy some long bars.

 

[Skyline]

Keep in mind that even a 1/2 drive air impact will break loose over 1,000 FT lbs. And tighten to about 800, (assuming a good quality gun). A 3/4 gun is probably also needed for heavy equipment, and maybe even 1".

Even with monster air guns, torque multipliers will be needed for really heavy duty stuff.

What do you expect to be working on?

 

[nicksnothereman]

I'm tooling up for work as a heavy equipment mechanic, and found out I'm not allowed to use a cheater pipe, so my beloved 6 ft piece of pipe has to stay home.

Consequently, I need some long handled breaker bars (among other ****). One of the mechanics I work under has a nice long 1" drive bar but I don't like borrowing tools and I need my own anyway. I haven't seen any markings on it while using it though so I don't know who made it.

Unfortunately doesn't seem like any of the common tool companies wants make anything much longer than a 2 ft bar. Got any suggestions for something of decent quality? I'd like a good 1/2" bar and a good 1" drive bar (we can skip 3/4 for now), I'd like the 1" drive bar to be at least 36-40" long (and longer would be better) and I'd like the 1/2" drive bar to be at least 30+

Get slugging wrenches (if they allow them). They probably allow impact wrenches so...yeah...you could always use one of those demonic devices.

It depends on what they allow and what you can do (i.e. weld), I always has a half assed solution for everything. I don't own a welder but I got the visualization down pat. If they allow one-piece pipe including welds then you got a lot of options if you can weld. Though shouldn't be using cheater/hand tools if you can use 3/4 impact or above even if that's you're preference.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I try to use air impacts as much as possible but it's not always an option...one needs a good solid long bar at hand sometimes. I do have a used 2135TIMAX on the way from Ebay (hopefully it will get here today so I can have it Monday) and when I get some money I've got my eyes on the Earthquake 3/4 and 1" guns at Harbor Freight and some Sunex sockets to match them.

What do you expect to be working on?

Anything and everything Caterpillar makes plus some other brands that the dealer chain sells, and then some oddball stuff occasionally.

 

[carterbeauford]

Snap On SN36
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=674897&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Mac triangle handle will flex less in my experience.

 

[claymont]

I've the smaller version of this wrench which serves me well. This is a pretty decent price for this.

SNAP-ON-X-4-X4-1-OUTPUT-DRIVE-TORQUE-MULTIPLIER-1000-FT-LBS

 

[ecotec]

There are lots of options of 40" 3/4" drive breaker bars on amazon (Titan, Tekton, Wilmar, GreatNeck, Nieko, Grip…).

 

[James_B]

Even with monster air guns, torque multipliers will be needed for really heavy duty stuff.

When I was first inquiring about torque multipliers, an aircraft engineer buddy of mine told me that they use 16:1 gear ratio/12:1 torque ratio multipliers to torque the nut on turbo-prop propellers to 2200 ft lbs.

 

[ClineWrench]

You might take a look at Williams which is the industrial line of Snap-on tools. Their breaker bar is a beast and their torque multipliers are something awesome.

Used together, I don't know what you would be faced with that would be undefeated by such a combination.

 

[gdh33]

I know you asked about long breaker bars, but there are a lot of options for high torque removal of fasteners and precisely torqueing them back on. We have most of what was mentioned at our facility and I have used it all at different times for different situations. Slug wrenches, long breaker bars, multipliers, impacts (electric and air) and hydraulic torque wrenches (HyTorc), our 3/4" torque wrench is good to 600 ft/lbs with multiplier 4:1 that is 2400 ft/lbs. anything more we use the HyTorc.

From a safety standpoint, use the proper tool for the job, if none exist look harder/ask, then if you can't find any (there are tons of tools out there, look at all the specialty tooling) modify or make the tool.

 

[ephotrod]

Buy a good piece of pipe paint it yellow or red and slap a logo on it and in nice script write mechanical advantage tool.
Josh

 

[PugetDude]

Have a friend stamp CRAFTSMAN on a piece of heavy wall pipe, paint it red, slip a rubber handle over one end and then sell it to you for a buck... It's a purchased tool, complete with bill of sale...

 

[Tejaas]

Not allowed to use cheater pipes, need help finding some long handled breaker...

Weld the cheater pipe to a breaker bar and tell them it isn't a cheater anymore. It's custom tool. I think only aircraft mechanics can't have 'custom' tools.

Haha!
Granted, I speak of DOD Rotorcraft in a non-military maintenance environment...

Off the top of my head, the platform I wrench on requires no less than 30 custom/locally manufactured tools!

Boeing even provides the machine shop specs to produce them in the technical manuals. Everyone is expected to manufacture their own tools and then owner mark them, and incorporate them into their foam shadowing/toolbox inventory.

Everything from simple to extravagant:

-Shaved down/extreme thinwall/ported sockets

- "Hockey sticks" (an angled dipstick used to determine hot/cold intermediate/tail rotor gearbox grease levels)

- Combination wrenches that are shaved/angled/broached to accept torque wrench drives in inaccessible areas (Tail Rotor Head Mounting Studs)

- Main rotor head bearing cup retainer wrenches

- Slide hammers

- Input-output seal/sump extractors

- PC link restaking jigs.

Cheater bars of various lengths included!

The only time I've seen a cheater bar discouraged is when someone utilizes the detachable handle we use on our bird to manually pump the utility hydraulics for APU start procedures as a cheater bar, or when they use it as a field-expedient pushrod to load and seat 2.75" Hydra rockets into the pods. (Some D-Bag always either warps the handle so it won't fit the utility manifold attachment, or they tear the rocket motor foil seals technically causing the munition to be unusable)

Thread idea... "Show us the custom/manufactured tools required to do your job"




~Tejaas~

 

[catsteve]

That's what safety in the workplace is all about

Rules that make a passerby feel good. It doesn't matter if those rules actually put you in MUCH MORE danger as long as someone in an office feels good about the rule. If it sounds good on the surface that's all that matters. Lets not discuss whether or not it actually works.

there was a bloke killed here recently after being hit with a cheater.

" Maintenance work on the suspension strut of a haul truck was being
undertaken and a torque wrench was used to undo a bolt. An extension bar was used on the wrench. This was inconsistent with the procedure and resulted in the wrench being over tensioned. It released and struck the employee."

No point being killed at work. Rest in peace.

 

[Jrican]

there was a bloke killed here recently after being hit with a cheater.

" Maintenance work on the suspension strut of a haul truck was being
undertaken and a torque wrench was used to undo a bolt. An extension bar was used on the wrench. This was inconsistent with the procedure and resulted in the wrench being over tensioned. It released and struck the employee."

No point being killed at work. Rest in peace.

Problem was the torque wrench not the cheeter bar.