notching a stud

[MerlinsBeard]

I'm framing some stud corners for my shed (for drywall) and I'm trying to minimize the cutouts. I have a partial occlusion of the stud path from a hex nut from a concrete anchor. You can see the rectangle I need to remove marked with an 'X'. This is a practice run on some stud scrap before I attempt it on the stud itself.

What's some ideas to try to cut out this notch in the wood relatively cleanly. I don't have much in the way of woodworking tools, e.g. don't have router, drill press, die grinder. Looking to see if there's some way I can cut this out with some combination of hand drill, pull saw, chisel, other?

My chisels are cheap Irwin Marples that are recently bought but haven't been through a premium sharpening process. My initial attempts with the chisel in isolation appear to have difficulty removing material. I make dents in the wood but am not able to dig in to it effectively. I'm thinking that I can put tape on a drill bit for the depth I need and punch out a bunch of holes and then chisel out the leftovers.

Any recommendations?

 

[firebirdparts]

I’m a wood chisel man myself.

 

[woodscaper]

Spade bit. Cheap and effective.

 

[mike93lx]

Polish plane.

Set your circ saw to max depth, hold back the guard and get after it.

Or grab a chainsaw. A small notch in a stuf for a shed won't really matter. Just knock it out and then sharpen your chisels

 

[Jeff C]

I’ve always seen framers just cut a “V” shaped notch to clear the anchor bolt. Should be able to do it real quick with either a circular saw or a sawzall.

 

[Adaylate]

Guys, he doesn't have any power tools available...
Use your pull saw and do like Jeff C said cut a V and it will clear your bolt just fine.
Good Luck!

 

[Supa Dexta]

A hacksaw would work for that small task.

 

[MerlinsBeard]

I do have circular saw and jigsaw, though not experienced to make clean notch cuts. I'm ok with making simple cross cuts all the way through studs, but making partial cuts only to a certain width of the wood, not so much. I think I got a plan though based on feedback here.

 

[duneslider]

You are way over thinking this. Its rough framing, not fine wood working. Jigsaw the sucker out and who cares if it is clean or not.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Kerf it with a skil saw set to depth then clean up with hammer and chisel. If you are not comfortable with that hand saw it.

 

[Mick56]

Drill a hole up into the stud right where it's needed

 

[Bucko]

Since you do not have tons of experience and you have a jigsaw is what I would use. Make your 2 straight cuts and then just shave a little off one side until you can turn your blade, then clean up where you turned after the chunk is clear. A scroll blade will help with the turn but a regular blade will help keep your curs straight.
Let the saw do the work and use good blades. Putting excessive force and dull blades will result in slanted cuts in thick wood.

 

[danfromsyr]

do this but smaller notch.

 

[brownbagg]

no dont do it, cut the anchor off and redrill and epoxy

 

[The Cobbler]

pro framers hack out the studs and don't care about what it looks like. as long as you can still nail it.
don't make this harder than it needs to be. cut out a notch with your jig saw & sleep well at night knowing you did it yourself.
No need to do as this poster says IMO

no dont do it, cut the anchor off and redrill and epoxy

 

[brownbagg]

the studs are load bearing so by notching the stud , tou are weaking the structural

 

[mike93lx]

the studs are load bearing so by notching the stud , tou are weaking the structural

He's putting nailers in for drywall. I hope they aren't structural

 

[yeldogt]

That's a perfect tool for your Jig Saw -- cut the two sides in and notch out the middle -- speed and bite depending on the blade.

Most people grab for power tools when sometimes a hand tool is the ticket .... learning how to use a simple coping saw (for this job) and many others will make you a better handyman.

It's often easier to make a few cut with hand tool vs getting out power tools or trips back and forth to the shop. One of my places has a B&B fence/ wall that is 100's of feet long. It's easier for me to go out with some simple hand tools and cut the cedar replacement boards.

I have very nice hand tools that were/ are expensive -- you can get some basic ones for not a lot of money. Everyone should have one of the Japanese saws (pull) .. simple crosscut.

 

[MerlinsBeard]

the studs are load bearing so by notching the stud , tou are weaking the structural

The Amish built shed just has one stud in the corner with some ties across the bottom sills connecting the walls together with several anchors into the slab. I didn't specify that I was intending to drywall so those corners weren't framed out and didn't realize till after the fact.

I'm taking the existing corner studs and making california corners to support drywall and trying to max insulation since I plan to condition the space. But to get the studs to fit in the proper location, I have to notch out for the anchor nuts. I presume that if the shed was delivered without those corners, any structural integrity issues with adding two additional studs with slight notching should be minimal.

I'm still trying to minimize the notching which is just along the bottom sill, though I'm considering adding some 90 degree 2x4" strong tie brackets to anchor things a little bit more to the top and bottom sills. I know there's a wide variety of approaches with varying levels of acceptance, and I tend to go overboard at the cost of time, but it's just four corners to frame, and it's a learning experience.

 

[dcg9381]

I use this.

 

[The Cobbler]

the studs are load bearing so by notching the stud , tou are weaking the structural

how are they load bearing?

 

[mike93lx]

The Amish built shed just has one stud in the corner with some ties across the bottom sills connecting the walls together with several anchors into the slab. I didn't specify that I was intending to drywall so those corners weren't framed out and didn't realize till after the fact.

I'm taking the existing corner studs and making california corners to support drywall and trying to max insulation since I plan to condition the space. But to get the studs to fit in the proper location, I have to notch out for the anchor nuts. I presume that if the shed was delivered without those corners, any structural integrity issues with adding two additional studs with slight notching should be minimal.

I'm still trying to minimize the notching which is just along the bottom sill, though I'm considering adding some 90 degree 2x4" strong tie brackets to anchor things a little bit more to the top and bottom sills. I know there's a wide variety of approaches with varying levels of acceptance, and I tend to go overboard at the cost of time, but it's just four corners to frame, and it's a learning experience.

As it is just backing, it doesn't even need to be continuous, nor go to the floor since you can fasten to the other stud in the corner Shorten the stud and your problem goes away