Notching and hole saw power sources

[E12-535iTurbo]

New question: Lately I've been doing a bit of notching and I'm also preparing to start a roll cage built which will include a lot of notching. However it seems like my current equipment is struggling to keep up with the low rev high torque required for hole saws. Two days ago a smoked the motor on my 220v mill and in the past I've been on the edge with my handheld cord-drills.

I'm currently researching the options and came to the conclusion that ideally I should buy a handheld power drill capable of precise low rev control and the possibility to be mounted in a collomn.

-rev control as hole saws are quite sensitive to the right rpms to last a long time.
-handheld as that gives me freedom in operation location and because most tube notchers use this as a general power source.
-Mountable in a collomn for deep penetrating cuts in a larger flat surface.

So.....What have you guys been using for notching/hole saws? What's your vision?

Regards,
Jan

 

[Dubbydoo]

heres the setup i've been using to notch the tube going on my exo cage
it gets the job done and its fairly cheap I use lenox hole saws and i just let it rip full speed and it cuts right through no problems
http://www.eastwood.com/pipe-notcher-holds-up-to-2-dia-round-tubing.html
http://www.dewalt.com/tools/drills-12-vsr-drills-dwd210g.aspx

 

[theoldwizard1]

Buy some better hole saws ! See if you can find one with carbide bits.

Make sure you get a 1/2" drill with TRIPLE gear reduction. You want torque not speed !

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

Buy some better hole saws ! See if you can find one with carbide bits.

Make sure you get a 1/2" drill with TRIPLE gear reduction. You want torque not speed !

Got an example of such a drill?

 

[1grnlwn]

Got an example of such a drill?

I believe any drill that max RPM is 1200 RPM would be triple reduction. Typical 120v electric motor3600 RPM.

 

[bullnerd]

Carbide tipped? Seems to me they wouldnt like the interupted cut?

There is a guy on the OFN that has been using the Harbor Fright 1/2" drill will great success for a while.

 

[APEowner]

Two days ago a smoked the motor on my 220v mill

I've made hundreds of holes with hole saws in my mill. Anytime I need to make a hole larger than an inch or so in a plate that's thin enough to use a hole saw I start with one and then clean up with a boring bar.

When I notch tubing I usually setup my tubing notcher in my drill press and I've never had a problem there either.

Rather than looking for a specialized tool just for the tubing notching I'd be looking at upgrading my other shop equipment or possibly the hole saws themselves.

 

[motobilt]

I have used many different hand drills for notching tube. I have killed a few along the way also.

This drill keeps the RPM down and does a nice job handling the torque. 550 RPM
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1...u=100072312&ci_kw=&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969

 

[ilovevocs]

We used to use allot of Milwaukee HD Drills but the quality has went down hill. We have switched to Metabo BE75-16.

http://www.metabo.us/Product-catalog-handheld-powertools.23980+M532b045229b.0.html

 

[brawls43]

I've done 4 cages with just a Black and Decker 7A, 1/2" drill. I think its 800 rpm max. I use Woodward Fabs WFN6 tube notcher. Found it for a discount through Summit Racing 5 years ago. I found it more sturdy then the bent steel style notchers. Just use Lennox or Blu Mol hole saws, with cutting oil.

Only tip would be get deep enough hole saws to cut all the way in one cut, depending on the angle. I hate having to stop and cut away part, to come back and finish a cut.

 

[astroracer]

Here is a link to a thread I posted years ago. I use a Milwaukee 1/2" drill for the notching. I have been using it for years. Couldn't tell you how many it has done...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4860

 

[Hpozzuoli]

Here's what I use for cutting holes in steel. It's a dewalt dw130. It's 450rpm and a 1/2 chuck. It's variable speed. It's a heavy sucker, but nothing stops it.

 

[ilovevocs]

Here is a link to a thread I posted years ago. I use a Milwaukee 1/2" drill for the notching. I have been using it for years. Couldn't tell you how many it has done...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4860

According to my rep Milwaukee was acquired by another company a few years back and took the rest of their manufacturing over seas. From my experience they are not the tools they used to be. I still have a few of the old ones and they have and continue to be tanks.

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

Thanks guys! Lots of usefull information! Yet another step in the right direction to build my first cage

 

[theoldwizard1]

Got an example of such a drill (triple gear reduction) ?

Dewalt DW245 (refurb on eBay for $115)

Some of the Milwaukee D-handle drills


I bought a Craftsman Professional several years ago. Discontinued, but it has enormous torque !

 

[McLean]

I've used a handful of drills with my JD2 Notchmaster, but my favorite is my Milwaukee M18 Drill. I just put it on the low speed setting and let 'r rip! I've also tried a Milwaukee Magnum (1/2", I think) and a massive old school steel cased beast- both are scary. Eventually, the drill will hang up and take you for a ride and I'd rather have something lighter and w/ less power flying towards my face. The M18 has never struggled even when I'm leaning into it.

I have fantasies about finding something with a heavy duty clutch or air motor, but haven't really done the research or wanted to pony up the big bucks yet.

As for Hole Saws, I've had pretty good luck with most bi-metal holes saws except Rigid (discontinued now, I think). I usually get dozens of cuts out of any given hole saw. McMaster is usually my source, but it doesnt really matter

 

[theoldwizard1]

As for Hole Saws, I've had pretty good luck with most bi-metal holes saws except Rigid (discontinued now, I think).

Ridgid went to a different supplier a couple of years ago. Of course I have a complete set of the old ones !

 

[rsanter]

What mill do you have that a hole saw killed the motor?
I have used my lathe and my mill for tube notching for years.
I use hole saws when I have to but prefer it use a shell mill or a large end mill if I have the right size

Sounds like you need a better motor for the mill anyway


Bob

 

[Graham08]

I'm using a 1/2" Milwaukee drill with a Baileigh TN-250 notcher. I think the max RPM on the drill is 550 RPM. I've never had a problem with it. I do some tricky stuff in my mill with some 3/4" shank hole saw arbors I made.

I wish JMR would start selling their deep fine tooth hole saws again, but I think that ship has sailed.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[zkling]

I use a OLD (metal case) milwaukee 1/2" corded with my home built notcher. But most of what I am doing is <1.5" and honestly majority is <1", .120" wall at the most. Lenox hole saws. Cutting fluid and don't push it. Don't seem to have many issues.

What type of notcher and hole saws are you using?

Back when I was younger and dumber I tried to put a hole saw in a drill press and clap the tube to the table. Yea it did a number on the drill press spindle. The notching jigs use either bushings or a roller type bearing to limit the force to axial only. Holesaw notching is a brutal operation.

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

What mill do you have that a hole saw killed the motor?
I have used my lathe and my mill for tube notching for years.
I use hole saws when I have to but prefer it use a shell mill or a large end mill if I have the right size

Sounds like you need a better motor for the mill anyway

Bob

I guess I was getting a bit bored with the process and pushed on the drill to hard. Normally electric engines have a thermoswitch and atleast a good functioning fuse. I've a chinese made small table mill. 220V 600Watt brush motor. It just got too warm as the hole saw blocked multiple times. I was going through a 6mm plate with 44mm diameter hole saw. I did use cutting fluid and the prescribed 200 rpm with a bi-metal drill bit.

I've ordered a new motor and will install a thermo switch.

It's just learning money and I've learned a lot again.

What type of notcher and hole saws are you using?

The notching jigs use either bushings or a roller type bearing to limit the force to axial only. Holesaw notching is a brutal operation.

Bi-metal hole saws. The quality of these are just fine. I'll have to look what brand they are but this can be different then you're used too as I'm located in Europe. I don't have a tube notcher just yet. Most of these 'special' tools I'll be making myself as in the Netherlands we don't have many brands/options available. The ones that are for sale are mostly imported and very expensive. For example:
http://www.25crmo4.com/25crmo4_NE/Gereedschappen_NL.htm#radius
See the second one of that page? That's a pretty basic notcher. Converted to USD it's 457.34$ That's just rediculous! Tube benders, profile benders it's all very expensive and with very little availability. There are not so many DIY's over here so the market is also quite small.

Most tools I'm making myself or I'm upgrading cheaper chinese tools. For example: I've bought a belt saw. It did not cut straight because of bad tolerances in the guide. So I made a new guide for it. I've just recently remodeled the work bench and partially built my own steel drawer cabinet. Yesterday I've been working on high adjustable, moveable axle stands to be able to be flexible in the restoration of my car in my small garage. Next small project is a profile bender. A model similar to the Harbor Freight one is about 350-400 euro's here. I hope to built it for less then 10 using scrap. The list keeps going but I'm having fun on a budget I can afford.

 

[afirover]

you could try this

TFI-55FTRM - Firetube Boiler Tube Rolling Motor
Ever since the departure of the Chicago Pnuematic 200 RPM motor the Industry has been looking for a quality, durable, high torque motor for firetube boiler tube rolling. We feel that we have found just that motor in the TFI-55FTRM. This product is manufactured in Germany by a company that has been in the motor business since 1919. Their products are time proven and durable.

This powerful 16 AMP (1,800W) motor has two changeable gear ratios and variable speed adjustment in each. This allows the operator to customize the motor's power and RPM to his particular application. The adjustable torque control feature allows the operator to preset the motor overload shutoff at a value that would prevent "over-rolling" for his particular application.


Specifications
Rated Voltage 110 VAC
Rated Power Input 1,800 W
Frequency 40-60 Hz
Load Speed 1st Gear 60-140 RPM
2nd Gear 200-470 RPM
Weight 14 lbs.
Protection Class II


more info here and its on sale HAHAHA
http://www.tfiinc.com/sale.htm

 

[dr_clyde]

My tube notching setup consists of an on size roughing endmill in the horizontal spindle of my Cincinnati mill.

If you have a mill, why not utilize it? The spindle is designed to take loads way better than a drill press. Get yourself a couple of roughing mills, make a v block jaw for the static jaw of the vise and go to town.

I have never liked the hole saw notchers. When I've used them, I used a Milwaukee M18 cordless drill. It works OK for on center notches.

Dress a grinding wheel on a big *** pedestal with a radius to tune up the notches if necessary.

 

[Crusarius]

I have tried an end mill several times before. I always get much better results with a hole saw.

how are you guys that use end mills doing it? I tried plunge cutting straight down through and I also tried feeding the tube into the side of the end mill. Maybe my cutter is just to aggressive but it likes to tear the steel more than cut it.

I used brand new end mills when I was experimenting.

 

[Bobf]

I went the "el cheapo" route with a HF notcher chucked in my very old Rockwell 15" DP. I did use quality hole saws and a cheap mini mister w/water based cutting fluid.
I did all the cuts in 1 3/4" .120 DOM for our 8 pt cage in our coupe wo ruining a hole saw or the motor on the drill press. I was going to use the mill but I had better access with the small table on the DP.