Notching?

[Eddie A.]

If I'm going to build a workbench with 4x4 legs with 2x4 framing, what's the point of notching the 4x4's? Is it strictly cosmetic? How does it affect the strength of the workbench?

 

[TN_GARAGE]

There are lots of ways to make wood joints. The easiest is the **** joint. Notching isn't too terribly difficult either and YES...it can create a stronger joint (not that it's really needed). Notching also allows your support boards to be flush.

You might consider marrying some 2x4s to give your table the benefits of 4x4 legs, but with out the notching (you simply cut one of the 2x4s a bit shorter to create the notch)

Hope I'm making sense.

 

[wn34]

I would say that notching the 4X4 legs to accept 2X4 rails would add quite a bit of strength as opposed to simply lag bolting the 2X4's into place. Interlocking joints always add strength and as a plus they look much cleaner. Did you plan on using a circular saw and chisel or another technique?

 

[Plump]

You'll get a lot of strength from the workbench top (add a shelf beneath for even more). A quick link to some joinery techniques:

http://www.diyonline.com/servlet/GIB_BaseT/diylib_article.html?session.docid=1242

 

[Eddie A.]

Well, I only own a circular saw, so I'll likely use the circular saw/chisel technique. Although I've read a few posts on here that say it's a pain to do it that way. I'm new to woodworking in general so it'll be interesting to see how it turns out.

Another question: Before I considered notching I was planning on using lag screws to tie the framing to the legs? If I notch the legs are lag screws gonna be too much? I was thinking 3" or 4" lag screws and 3" exterior screws for everything else? What are yall's thoughts?

 

[creativecars]

Notching places wood on wood. Wood is fairly strong in compression, without notching the bench is only as strong as the screws or bolts holding it together. Notching is done so all the downward forces are not held up by just screws or bolts joining them, but by wood on wood contact. Also the better the fit of the notches, the stronger the unit as a whole. I would notch and use carriage bolts with washers on the back side. Strong and looks nicer too.

 

[1320stang]

Well, I only own a circular saw, so I'll likely use the circular saw/chisel technique. Although I've read a few posts on here that say it's a pain to do it that way. I'm new to woodworking in general so it'll be interesting to see how it turns out.

Another question: Before I considered notching I was planning on using lag screws to tie the framing to the legs? If I notch the legs are lag screws gonna be too much? I was thinking 3" or 4" lag screws and 3" exterior screws for everything else? What are yall's thoughts?

Eddie, adjust the depth of the saw to 1.5" and cut across 3 1/2" down from the top, then adjust it full depth and cross cut it 1 1/2" in, then drive a chisel down and you'll likely end up with a good lap for the joint. Because the 4x4 will hold the 2x4, I'd say lags aren't necessary.

You could drive some 3" drywall screes from the back side, or get some carriage bolts to drive thru for it to look nicer. Back the heads with fender washers for a nice detail.

 

[nehog]

I always notch mine, using an eight inch skill worm drive and a sawzall. Much stronger and more stable when notched. I also double the front edge, one 2x4 on the notch outside, and one inside just bolted on (since there isn't enough space for a notch there). A couple of pieces of scrap between the two and that makes the front edge very stable and strong.

I use old steel computer flooring for my bench tops now, but in the past I always used 2x6 or 2x8s, with a layer of ply on top for a smooth surface. Makes the top strong.

 

[Kevin54]

Notching will keep it from racking if your joints are tight.