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Now That I Have a Plasma Cutter......

bczygan

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Now that the Chinese Plasma Cutter Group buy has progressed, the next step is going to be setting them up and using them.

Hoping the old hands will chime in and edumacate us newbies....

How to hook them up...

So what can you do with them?

What accessories help.

What protective clothing should you have? Eye protection?

And what is a good setup for using them? I've seen clamps and wire mesh top tables and containers for the dross to fall into. Maybe half a steel drum would make a table/container. I know how I would cut it in half!

Show us your set ups......
 
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bczygan

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First step, get a good air filter/dryer for your compressor. The HF stuff isn't gonna cut it. Motorguard makes a good unit.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GI0H2M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It looks like the cutter comes with it's own water separater.

And people say that putting one near the compressor does less good than first having a length of piping that allows the air to cool, and the water to condense out.

Is that so?

Would it be good to then have a filter, as well as one right at the machine?

Bill
 

Lx460

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This is how I have mine mounted. The reason being if I bring it over a friend's house or loan it out (there's only a couple people on that list) I don't have to worry about bad air. The CUT50F is different but I'm sure something could be done to mount it permanently.
 

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rslaback

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In a previous life I had taught students to use both a handheld and a cnc table.

Rule 1. It is expensive to operate. Torches and saws are cheaper. It should definitely be a tool in your arsenal but it shouldn't be the first one you always grab.

Rule 2. Use a guide. Even if it is just a scrap of material vise gripped down that you run the torch against, you'll have much better results. Freehand cutting usually looks like ****.

Rule 3. Try to get used to holding the torch just above the material with minimal gap. You can usually drag it as well but it is harder on the consumables.

Rule 4. If you go too fast and the torch quits cutting, the gap will fill with dross. This is charcoal like and not metal like so it will be hard to restart the cut. Sometimes it is better to try to start with a new pierce in a different location and go backward to where your cutting stopped.

Rule 5. With a pilot arc torch (which you have purchased) you can burn a deep nasty hole in your leg quite easily. If you pull that damn trigger with the gun resting against your leg you will be in a whale of hurt. Keep your finger off the safety.

Rule 6. Get a tinted faceshield or glasses. The arc is too bright to just look at if you want to be able to see but a full helmet is too dark. I used to use a #5 shield with the students and it worked well to protect them from sparks and be dark enough they could see what was going on. Faceshields are better than glasses as they allow you to be wearing safety glasses underneath for double protection and leaves your eyes still protected when you raise it (as opposed to taking off just glasses).

Rule 7. Ventilation is important. You are essentially burning metal and blowing the leftovers out to create a gap. The smoke is nasty ****. Breathe as little of it as possible.

Rule 8. Don't try to be a manly man. Wear a glove. That **** is hot and you are inches away.
 
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LXCam

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Rule 2 hit home. I can cut a precise straight line with a skill saw, saw zall, grinder ..etc anything along those lines. You put a torch or plasma cutter in my hand and it looks like 3year old blind coke head did the work. I can't free hand to save my life. So using a guide is great advice as was everything else. Good luck with your new toy.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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rule #9 - overhead cutting WILL put hot **** down your neck and in your ear drums no matter how much protection you wear!

<---my avatar pic is me using a big Miller plasma I have at work -- you can just see the guide clamped on, though I do free-hand arcs and short straight cuts -- anything more than 2 inches that should be straight, I get a guide in place.
 
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nine4gmc

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Rule #5 almost put me down permanently. I was using a auto-darkening welding helmet and reached up to lift the helmet after cutting off a piece of metal. I accidentally squeezed the trigger and heard the pop of the torch and quickly pulled away just as it was firing up, had I been a second or two later, it could have pierced my skull. Take this rule very serious or it could be harmful or fatal.

Rule #6 is one I have been exploring ever since. Eastwood makes #5 shaded plasma cutting safety glasses and I have seen some good deals on ebay as well for them, most run $10-20.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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Also, keep other people away and be extra cautious of starting a hole through the middle of a part, especially thicker material. The arc will blast back and blow hot stuff out / up until it burns through. It's not like using a oxy-torch where you can melt through. Plasma give a blast of air that forces the material to go somewhere as soon as it melts -- if not starting on an edge where it can blow down the side, then the flat surface makes it crater and blow out / back. No big deal on thin sheet metal, as it burns through quickly, but thick material takes a bit longer (depending one the power of the machine).
I nearly sent a guy to the hospital when he walked up beside me just as I pulled the trigger on a cut like that and sparks shot out and got him in the eye (Yeah, I know, why was he in the shop without safety glasses? That's for another discussion).
 
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malbojah

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Subscribed to the thread

Can't wait to get my invoice and then get my unit :bounce::thumbup:

I have to plan on how to mount it on my HF welding cart. I already have a Mig on the top shelf, just need to re-drill and move the lower shelf for the plasma cutter
 
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Jason280

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Plasma arc will give you a nasty sunburn, plan accordingly. I had to cut out the centers of HMMV rims a couple weeks back, had my sleeves and glasses on, but had to lean fairly close to the cut...ended up with a decent facial tan around the glasses!
 

sberry

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I disagree with rule 1, one of the reasons they are so popular is that they are super cheap to operate. Its my first option if possible.
 

bobbycos

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I have to plan on how to mount it on my HF welding cart. I already have a Mig on the top shelf, just need to re-drill and move the lower shelf for the plasma cutter

I am going to modify my HF welding cart too. If anyone comes up with any good ideas for theirs, please let us know.

I am going to get the HF cart that I posted a pic of in the old thread, the $50 one
 

nine4gmc

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It will look funny on the mug cart, the plasma cutter is tiny. I'll try to get a pic later, I have a similar mig cart and a cut50, I'll throw on it for you guys to see.
 

FriendOfYours

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Rule #10

Don't get too pissed when it arrives DOA. Posted a couple times about the longevity and overall quality of these units but noone listened. My old job got 7/10 DOA and the others died within a month. They were non pilot version but still
 
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Kev442

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I'm wondering how many people are under juiced in their garage. If you have a 220v compressor, you need to run it at the same time as this cutter. Even if this is a dual voltage cutter, people aren't going to be very happy with it on 110v.

GJ seems to have a bunch of guys who bought three phase equipment that has never been hooked up and it just sits taking up space for years. This could be another one of those situations.
 

nine4gmc

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I only have a 60a feed to my shop, I have six dual 8' fluoros along with several 4' and smaller t12 & t8 shop lights running. My compressor is a 60 gal Campbell housfeld and it runs along with the cut50f on full blast. It's not as much juice as you'd think.

Also, unless they updated the plasma and I missed it, they are only 240v so a person would need a dedicated outlet for a compressor, either 120v or 240v whatever it is, along with a 30a 240v for the plasma cutter.

Also, here is the pic of my plasma on the cart that came with my Hobart 140.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424040695.338925.jpg
 
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metaldad

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Rule #11............ keep your dogs away from the work areas.
Their eyes will get 'flashed' just as easy as yours.
 

MoparTrucks

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I am pretty juiced to get mine as well. I was going to wire a separate outlet on the outside of my shop (its actually under the lean to where I store one of my tractors) for my RV so I could move it up there and have a place to take a dump and have some AC and now I will check out the requirements for the CUT50 and triple use use the outlet for that, a welder and the RV when nothing else is using it.

I don't know about anyone else but at almost 55 I have functioned just fine without a plasma cutter all these years but now that this GJ thing came up I have suddenly found about 5 projects that I could use one on.

For the price of this thing I plan on using mine as a learning tool and then decide if I can justify buying a higher quality rig.
 

Beemer533

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In a previous life I had taught students to use both a handheld and a cnc table.

Rule 1. It is expensive to operate. Torches and saws are cheaper. It should definitely be a tool in your arsenal but it shouldn't be the first one you always grab.

Can I ask why you think it would be expensive to operate compared to other methods? I'm not really seeing what would make a big difference...

All three have "consumables", blades, gas, etc
 

rslaback

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Can I ask why you think it would be expensive to operate compared to other methods? I'm not really seeing what would make a big difference...

All three have "consumables", blades, gas, etc

Consumable life is the main reason. Depending on air quality and technique you can expect between 1 and 3 hours of torch on time per tip and electrode. A cutting torch on the other hand usually runs about 500 or more (but the fuel cost there is higher).

If you look at industries like demolition where both torches and plasmas would work (and plasmas would actually be a bit handier) you'll see that they use almost exclusively torches.

Posting that wasn't to say that running a plasma is super expensive. However, if you're cutting a bunch of box tube to length for a table project it shouldn't be the first tool you reach for.
 

Jure

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rule #9 - overhead cutting WILL put hot **** down your neck and in your ear drums no matter how much protection you wear!

<---my avatar pic is me using a big Miller plasma I have at work -- you can just see the guide clamped on, though I do free-hand arcs and short straight cuts -- anything more than 2 inches that should be straight, I get a guide in place.

lol whole time i was thinking you were using a big angle grinder and cutting something :lol:
 

twertsy

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I've been looking for a way to make an interchangeable bed for my CNC so I could do both routing and cutting with it. Just need a "wet table" setup for plasma. I'm told there is an adapter for the spindle bracket allowing it to hold a torch. Just don't know if this cutter is ideal for the application :dunno:
 

doojus

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Rule #10

Don't get too pissed when it arrives DOA. Posted a couple times about the longevity and overall quality of these units but noone listened. My old job got 7/10 DOA and the others died within a month. They were non pilot version but still

You get what you pay for... Hope everyone in the group buy looks up caveat emptor.
 

srmofo

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I cover all skin, learned my lesson on that the first time out. I wear my welding helmet on grinding mode, a respirator, and ear plugs at a minimum
 

Beemer533

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Consumable life is the main reason. Depending on air quality and technique you can expect between 1 and 3 hours of torch on time per tip and electrode. A cutting torch on the other hand usually runs about 500 or more (but the fuel cost there is higher).

If you look at industries like demolition where both torches and plasmas would work (and plasmas would actually be a bit handier) you'll see that they use almost exclusively torches.

Posting that wasn't to say that running a plasma is super expensive. However, if you're cutting a bunch of box tube to length for a table project it shouldn't be the first tool you reach for.

That makes sense, I assumed something along those lines.. I just understood your comment to be for all types of cuts which didn't make sense to me (as far as it not being the first tool to reach for)

I personally prefer my bandsaws or chop saw for tubes or small, narrow stock, but for larger sheets with something other than straight cuts, I don't think there is a comparison..
 

Beemer533

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I've been looking for a way to make an interchangeable bed for my CNC so I could do both routing and cutting with it. Just need a "wet table" setup for plasma. I'm told there is an adapter for the spindle bracket allowing it to hold a torch. Just don't know if this cutter is ideal for the application :dunno:

I've been looking at this as well to use with the Shapeoko 3 CNC I ordered... I think at the least you need a straight cutter head similar to this one; http://www.ebay.com/itm/P-80-High-F...137?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e9142161

I'm still trying to figure it out, but I will probably have to wait until I have the machine in hand..
 

AnEv942

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Though Im holding off ordering anything until cutter arrives (trying real hard), I have a question regarding anticipated uses. Though it may reveal itself once I have it.

One of the projects I have on hold is to use this little cutter to bevel some plate. Im curious because of the hold off ring on the head. Wondering if say one of the add on wheeled guides that allows angling will work on the AG60F torch. Just trying to see how might drag and hold at consistent angle. All I noted that is currently using one of these small units is nine4gmc- so maybe more of a direct question? `That and just using guides in general with this head? Do you allow for ring when /if making patterning guides? Again this may be revealed whan I can actually see/use it.
 
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Heavy Metal Doctor

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Though Im holding off ordering anything until cutter arrives (trying real hard), I have a question regarding anticipated uses. Though it may reveal itself once I have it.

One of the projects I have on hold is to use this little cutter to bevel some plate. Im curious because of the hold off ring on the head. Wondering if say one of the add on wheeled guides that allows angling will work on the AG60F torch. Just trying to see how might drag and hold at consistent angle. All I noted that is currently using one of these small units is nine4gmc- so maybe more of a direct question? `That and just using guides in general with this head? Do you allow for ring when /if making patterning guides? Again this may be revealed whan I can actually see/use it.

I know I'm not using the same specific machine, but I'd say the principles are the same.
I just use and extended tip (no drag shield), a steady hand, and a straight piece of 1" angle or square tubing from longer cuts. Beware that angled, it's cuts may be different depending on whether you are just knocking the edge off an already cut piece or trying to cut through at the same time.
And yes - do allow for the tip / cup size and burn pattern -- The machine I use is nearly exactly 1" diameter cup, but once the arc burns away some I end up having to hold it about 5/8" back off of what I want to be the finished edge.
 

nine4gmc

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AnE, unfortunately, Idk but am interested in attachments myself. I know I want a circle cutter and angle attachment, maybe others as well.
I've only used mine a few times and those were simple cuts. I have tried unsuccessfully to cut 3/4 plate a couple times and all I did was ruin some consumables in the process. Once I order more, I'll try again but with only a few left, I'm saving them for when I actually need to use it. I have cut 1/4" plate and tubing like butter so it does what I need it to do, just wanted to try it maxed out on the 3/4 for fun. It could simply be my technique since I'm new to this. :dunno:
 

AnEv942

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Huh-Thanks, I wrote a response - hit post, hopefully it landed safely and didnt harm anything wherever it went cause it didnt make it here. Odd

Doc-thanks one of the guides I was looking at was adjustable, setting to cut at an angle, nice and work well for consistent hold off & angle but other than a bit expensive needs material on both sides. Which you actually hit upon-edge cutting. I have need for a nice straight flat angle with minimum cleanup without spending forever with grinder, never had much luck trying with torch.
My hand isnt so steady so Im seeing making some 'aids' will be in order. Im kinda thinking something that will hold torch thats drug against straight edge. Then again not having used one maybe it will less prone to my 'input' than oxy torch. Well see., just getting anxious suppose.


Wow niner I had to look, didnt remember capability toward 3/4", Ill be dipped-its rated 20mm lil better than 25/32", I'd have to see that happen out of this lil shoe box-.
Circle/ arc guide is definitely on the round to it. I dont want all my arcs either folgers 3# or jolly green giant. :). One of things I have picked up on is consumables might need more on hand than I had ordered. Need to relax and use to see what I really need/want...as Im sitting here playing with an old wood seam roller...hmmm
 
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