Nut 1/2-13, capacity ?

[nm2]

I have a part to lift with an eye bolt 1/2-13
I know that this eye bolt`s capacity is 2400lbs with security factor 5:1

This Eye Bolt will be fixed with normal nut 1/2-13

I would like to know a capacity for this Nut, as this photo :

What is a lift capacity for a nut 1/2-13 ?

 

[nehog]

What grade is the nut? Nuts, like bolts have grades.

 

[spy604]

it all depends on the grade of the nut. I would use a grade 5 or better in a lifting application, which would be fine for lifting 2400lb

 

[nm2]

What grade is the nut? Nuts, like bolts have grades.

Is probably a cheapest (2 or 5)...

 

[sberry]

A cheapest is a 2, a 5 is what you want and is common, cost about a quarter.

 

[nm2]

it all depends on the grade of the nut. I would use a grade 5 or better in a lifting application, which would be fine for lifting 2400lb

To be sure, Maybe Grade 2, but it hide inside a square tubing and I can't change because is solded inside of this tubing !

Does this 2400 Lbs is a break point rupture ?
or
Does 2400 lbs include a safety load 5:1 ?
or
Does I have to divise 2400 / 5 = 480 ?

Thanks

 

[spy604]

2400 is certainly the lifting capacity, after the safety factor. get a grade 5 nut. i wouldnt trust a grade 2 nut for anything, especially in a lifting application

 

[MoonRise]

The 'strength' difference between a Grade2 and a Grade8 fastener is approximately 1:2, so the Grade8 fastener is approximately twice as 'strong' as the Grade2 fastener.

On a 1/2-13 fastener, that 2400 lb load rating already includes the 5:1 Safety Factor.

Use a Grade5 or Grade8 nut to go with the 1/2-13 lift eye to maintain the 2400 lb load rating and the 5:1 Safety Factor. IMNSHO.

 

[nm2]

2400 is certainly the lifting capacity, after the safety factor. get a grade 5 nut. i wouldnt trust a grade 2 nut for anything, especially in a lifting application

Note that I'm french, so sorry for the repetiton of my sentences !


I will try you explain you that I want do, but I'm worried, I would not get my trailer on a toe:

In my garage I want lift my domestic trailer(500 lbs as a next photo), nearest of my roof (10 ft), and I want use a EyeBolt fixed on Hide Nut inside tubing !

Note :
- that this Eyebolt is fixed to position balanced weight !
- that this trailer will be deposited on a rack !
- the time it is suspended is less than two minutes
- I use my trailer one or two times by year


A reason is that I want park my car under this rack !

(My Beam, trolley Beam and Hoist are limited to 1/2 TON by ingeener)

What do you think about this ?

Maybe that you have another solution to store my trailer and park my car inside my garage !

Thanks

 

[rlitman]

I'd be more worried about the square tubing.
Anybody remember this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyatt_Regency_walkway_collapse

 

[j p smith]

I would like to see you think about lifting from more that 1 place, better balance and you would spread around the weight. Also what are you pulling from to lift the trailer up? In addition I am not sure where you are attaching the eye bolt would be rated for the weight of the trailer as a lift point. Jeff

 

[nm2]

I would like to see you think about lifting from more that 1 place, better balance and you would spread around the weight. Also what are you pulling from to lift the trailer up? In addition I am not sure where you are attaching the eye bolt would be rated for the weight of the trailer as a lift point. Jeff

Right, but if I use 2, 3 or 4 EyeBolt to lift my trailer, I know that a balance weight will be better, but would impossible to lift near of my ceiling if I use adapted cable as next photo:

 

[nm2]

I'd be more worried about the square tubing.
Anybody remember this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyatt_Regency_walkway_collapse

My size tube is 1 1/2" x 3" x 1/8", and nut is solded inside this tube !

 

[nm2]

Also what are you pulling from to lift the trailer up?

With a Electric Cable hoist, on trolley beam, all kit is limited to 1/2 TON by ingeener !

In addition I am not sure where you are attaching the eye bolt would be rated for the weight of the trailer as a lift point. Jeff

I tried to lift at 1 feet from a floor, and a balancing is perfect !
But I could try at 10 feet today! But I prefer to take your advice here on the forum before ...
A trailser's weight exact is 430lbs...

 

[G_P]

My size tube is 1 1/2" x 3" x 1/8", and nut is solded inside this tube !

Drill a hole all the way through the tube so the threads come out the top. Then use a grade 8 nut and a large washer to secure the eye.

Sent via carrier pigeon.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If you put the nut inside the tube, you only have the strength of one wall of the tube. If as G_P suggests you pass the eye bolt shank all the way thru the tube and put the nut on the other side, you have somewhat more strength.

If you put the nut inside the tube, I would consider a large nut such as a "flanged nut" which is usually much harder steel and has a lot more surface area.

How do you intend to get the nut inside the tubing? Is it near the end of the tubing where you can slide it in? If you plan on leaving the eyebolt in place, you really won't need to weld it in place. Welding tends to disturb the heat treat of the metal of the nut. If you weld it, do just enough to hole it securely and no more.

I would go to a business that specializes in fasteners and hardware and tell them that you want a nut with a large flange or larger diameter and of a grade 8 steel. I suspect your weak link here is the wall of the tubing and not the nut. The larger the nut the more surface area it has on the inside of the tube and the less likely it is to pull through the tubing wall.

Charles

 

[Exceller8]

If it were me I'd go with a grade 5 or 8 and be done with it.

 

[rsanter]

If you want more than one point, drill holes through the tube 3 to 6 inches on either side of the existing hole.
Go all the way through the tube and use a nut and washer on the back side
Your balance will remain the same.
Connect eyelets with a short piece of chain

This will give you 2 pick points and you won't loose much height

Bob

 

[nm2]

If you want more than one point, drill holes through the tube 3 to 6 inches on either side of the existing hole.
Go all the way through the tube and use a nut and washer on the back side
Your balance will remain the same.
Connect eyelets with a short piece of chain
This will give you 2 pick points and you won't loose much height
Bob

Thanks,
I'll think about your ideas! with your method, my tongue will be retractable !

But about other hint to drill through a tube on a center, it is impossible, because a tongue is under this posision, and removable and (draggable) slidable !

I include a draw about this tubing when I build my trailer last year !
Maybe that a FlatBar that I added was a good idea !

 

[rlitman]

If it were me I'd go with a grade 5 or 8 and be done with it.

And you know that is the answer, how?

Read this:
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm#10
"Nut thickness standards have been drawn up on the basis that the bolt will always sustain tensile fracture before the nut will strip."

Then this:
http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/proofloadtensile.htm
1/2 - 13 Grade 2 Proof Strength 7800lbs (min tensile 10500lbs)

The forged eye bolt is mild steel, keep the nut the same. Grade 2. GALVANIZED. I expect you will leave this on the trailer, and corrosion is much more of a concern than tensile failure of the nut or bolt.

As I said above, the nut and bolt are not your problem. 1/2" was a good size to select. But you need to be concerned with the attachment point. Not the nut.

 

[Richard D]

I bet it's fine. An engineer will argue with you all day but I'd just try it, lift it 6" and leave it there a while. If it breaks it won't have far to fall. If it doesn't break, then go for it, just stay out from under it.

 

[nm2]

And you know that is the answer, how?

I'm sure that my NUT is not garde 2, but maybe 5 or 8 !

Nut thickness standards have been drawn up on the basis that the bolt will always sustain tensile fracture before the nut will strip."

I found another nut that I bought in same time that I made my trailer and a thickness is 15/32".

I expect you will leave this on the trailer, and corrosion is much more of a concern than tensile failure of the nut or bolt.

My trailer will be always on my garage, so no problem for corrosion !

As I said above, the nut and bolt are not your problem. 1/2" was a good size to select. But you need to be concerned with the attachment point. Not the nut.

Probably that I will use two points throught a tubing, and use a long flat bar 3/4 on top, and two big washer 1/8. No need EyeBolt, I will bent a rod 5/8 and weld on long flatbar, as photo: