Oak Flooring, Oil Poly, Uh Oh...

[tmcquinn]

Ok, this has a very tenuous connection to the garage but nothing is happening out there until I finish this! I hope it's an acceptable topic here. I've gotten more good advice here with less fighting than I get in most forums.

I decided to refinish some oak floors. The sanding turned into one of those things where you just had to decide if you wanted to spend a solid year on imperfections no one would ever see. I finally told myself I was finished. Still, I had that fear of the unknown when it came to putting down the oil based polyurethane. Yesterday I sacked up and went for it. I was warned about stirring the poly and told to do it carefully by hand, being careful to not get any bubbles in it. It took a long time to make the last of the globs disappear. But, and this is the part where I came down with a major case of the *******, I only stirred up one gallon. Somehow I convinced myself that the coverage suggested on the can was closer to reality than marketing fantasy. Past a certain point it became clear that I was going to run out. I don't know, maybe I put it on too thick.

I did the best I could to stop where 2 pieces of flooring came together, given the situation. As you can see, my best was not great here. This is the first of 3 coats. I won't be back there for 2 days. When I pick up where I left off what do you think is my best chance of blending in the new finish with what I did yesterday? Or am I going on about nothing?

 

[mishkaya]

From memory back when I made a similar mistake, you will be able to see the transition, but it is likely no one else will. Mine is totally invisible twenty years later, if that is any consolation.

 

[manwithtools]

If it's the first of three coats, I think you'll be fine. A little sanding between coats will obscure any transition line. Just be sure on the next two coats not to break at the same point.

 

[Bluedodge]

Good looking floor!

Put one coat on the bare portion of the floor, edging up against the already finished portion. Let the whole thing dry, then put on your second coat all at once (not half at a time). Same with the third.

Like mishkaya said, only you will be able to see the line after you're done, and then only if you look for it.

 

[tmcquinn]

Thanks, all. This floor was installed in 1954, 2 years before I was born. With the sanding it got to the point where I just declared the remaining imperfections to be character. Maybe that's what I need to do with the finish.

And yeah, it will be lightly sanded between coats and the 2nd & 3rd coats will be done all at once!

 

[musgofasta]

If going to do 3 coats, I would reverse and go against the grain in that room to blend that edge between applications.

Sand and smooth for the 3rd coat back with the grain.

I just finished 3 coats of waterbased on Oak Floor last month.

 

[jake00]

My career is hardwood, next time tape off a board, you’ll never see the break

 

[tmcquinn]

My career is hardwood, next time tape off a board, you’ll never see the break

Amen to that. I was struggling to keep a wet edge, move my poly around without spilling it, and keep my fresh air hose out of the finish. By the time it was obvious that I would run out I felt like I was juggling chainsaws and wasn't thinking 100% clearly.

I'm thinking I will take some 220 and just take the gloss off of the last inch of the finished edge when I coat the bare floor. I've already proven I can't cut a line with what I'm using and I'm thinking maybe it will blend in a little better that way.

 

[Bretny]

This and many other reasons is why i used toungue oil. You can recoat one section and not even notice a few days later. Also scratches are not in the finish as the finish is soaked into the wood.

 

[MoonRise]

My career is hardwood, next time tape off a board, you’ll never see the break

This would be the best way to hide a transition between the application layers/coats.

Too late to do that now though.

And if you read the label instructions, it will usually say something like 'recoat within 8 hours or after 24 hours' (* the actual numbers depend on the specific product being used).

That is because the poly cures first from a solvent evaporation and then from a chemical reaction of the resins.

If you apply more product while still 'wet' (solvent still in the layer), no problem. And no real 'witness line' between the coats, because you pretty much just have one coat there.

If you apply after the solvent evaporates and after the stated 'cure' time, you are mostly OK as far as the coating goes. But you WILL end up with a 'witness line' between the different coats to at least some extent.

If you put on more product (another coat or more product on the bare wood which will HAVE to overlap the existing product to at least some extent) and you don't apply the product within the stated application times, you can have BadResults. Don't do this.

IMHO, the 'best' way to finish putting that first coat of poly on the floor would have been to go and get another gallon or two of poly as soon as you realized that you needed more. As long as you could have continued with the new gallon within the 'apply within *** hours of the first coat', chemically it would have all been just ONE coat. You would have had a little bit of a seam/hump where the two coats overlapped, but you would just sand it down a bit when you did the between coats sanding step.

Too late for that now.

Step #1 - get MORE product than you think you will need (or have someone who can go get more product while you keep working).

Step #2 - RTFM and see when the coat-recoat times are for the SPECIFIC product you are using. Make sure to follow those directions.

Step #3 - RTFM and see when the directions say to do the 'lightly sand between coats' step. When you get to THAT time window, then lightly sand the existing poly that you put down (you MUST do this step, as it sure sounds like you will be outside of the 'recoat within *** hours' timeframe and you will need to do this step to get the two different applications of poly to physically bond to one another).

Clean the dust well.

RTFM about the fire hazards from the poly sanding dust!!!!!! I set a sander on fire because 'dry' poly is still chemically reacting internally and produces heat that builds up within the dust collection canister of the sander.

Step #4 - apply a layer of poly on the bare wood and overlap it onto the scuff sanded bit of your first application of poly.

RTFM as to when the coat-recoat times are and make SURE that you follow the directions. Remember that you have TWO different times to deal with because you have two different applications of poly in your 'first' layer.

Once you are OK and in an acceptable timeframe with the curing/drying time of your two first coats, then do the scuff sanding on the entire floor (read above about the fire hazard of sanding poly!!! ) and then apply a single continuous second coat on the entire floor. Let 'dry' according to the directions (within *** hours or after zzz hours), then scuff sand and clean the dust and apply the third coat.

This and many other reasons is why i used toungue oil. You can recoat one section and not even notice a few days later. Also scratches are not in the finish as the finish is soaked into the wood.

Not many folks use toungue oil anymore.

Most would use "tung oil".

And not many folks use tung oil on a wood floor, as the protection that a polyurethane floor varnish has is WAAAAY more than multiple coats of tung oil.

 

[tmcquinn]

Yeah, that makes me even more pissed at myself. I had another gallon there. I was afraid of losing my 'wet edge' if I took another hour to stir it up and get it ready. What you say makes sense, I might have been better off taking the hour and finishing coat 1. But there's no going back in time.

I'll be careful with the dust. I believe it said that if the second coat was within 8 hours it didn't need to be scuffed. After 8, wait 24 and sand lightly. 8 was never in the cards for this project.

 

[Showkey]

That last two homes I used hard wax oil finish:
Offers a great look.........
No dust, bubbles problems or concerns.........
Zero fumes........short dry time.
Can be retouch at anytime and spot finish repair or renewal is undectectable ........
Not as durable as poly finishes..........but a much richer look.

Article on the topic......Hard-Wax Oil or Polyurethane? Which Hardwood Finish Is Best?

http://duchateau.com/blog/hardwoodf...or-polyurethane-which-hardwood-finish-is-best

Over the years I used oil and water poly finishes with success but never happy with the constraints of repairs or renewal........then the poly gloss or matte issues.
Would never go back to any version of poly finishes.

The hard wax oil finish is NOT a cheap but the product goes a long way.
Application is a little like waxing a car.......products is wiped on witha lamb wool pad, absorbed into the wood and then buffered witha bonnet on a random orbit sander.
In living room has not been touched with 5 years of use.
Kitchen area high use and wear and tear...... I buff a new light coat every year that takes less than a hour to apply 400 sqft. Prep is scotch brite pad on a hand random orbit.

Last project was 5” 1/4 sawn white oak

 

[tmcquinn]

I'm back at the project today and I'm pretty pleased with what I'm seeing. Don't get me wrong, like everything I've ever done, I'm certain I could do it better the 2nd time. (This is my last.) I'll try to report back after all 3 coats are on. I appreciate every one of you taking time to help, thanks.

 

[rlitman]

If going to do 3 coats, I would reverse and go against the grain in that room to blend that edge between applications.

Sand and smooth for the 3rd coat back with the grain.

I just finished 3 coats of waterbased on Oak Floor last month.

What? ALWAYS wipe with the grain. Any time you wipe across the grain, you'll have to sand heavily to fix it.

My career is hardwood, next time tape off a board, you’ll never see the break

Best advice here, though a little late.

If you have a scraper, you could probably scrape back the poly on that half board, but I think that with this being the first coat, nobody but the person applying it will notice this little mistake.

 

[tmcquinn]

What? ALWAYS wipe with the grain. Any time you wipe across the grain, you'll have to sand heavily to fix it.



Best advice here, though a little late.

If you have a scraper, you could probably scrape back the poly on that half board, but I think that with this being the first coat, nobody but the person applying it will notice this little mistake.

One bedroom had the grain running across the threshold. I really wanted to tape it off on a board edge, do the one room, and see how it came out. But, sigh, the internet... I would've needed to tape off the finished side to continue and that is either fine for a short time with painter's tape or guaranteed to ruin the new poly, depending on what you read. If there ever comes a day when everyone on the internet agrees on anything I will know end days are here. I just had to make a decision and I decided to do it all at once, though that obviously led me to here.

I'm going to sand down the partial board a little and get that bare floor coated. Whatever happens, happens.

If I could divorce myself from some irrational need to do a job that my father (who built the place) would approve of, I would probably come to the conclusion that what I'm doing will exceed what the market will pay for and is good enough for this neighborhood.

 

[rlitman]

One bedroom had the grain running across the threshold....

I'm going to sand down the partial board a little and get that bare floor coated. Whatever happens, happens...

Yeah, that happens. If you're putting a transition threshold over it, then you can just stop at the doorway. If not, then you did it just right.

Be careful on the sanding. Wood sands quickly, poly, ESPECIALLY gummy fresh poly, does not. You can end up excavating wood next to barely scratched poly (like what happens when you sand around a glue line).

If it were me, I'd pull out my cabinet scraper, and scrape the poly off to the line, followed by a quick sand by hand with a block.

...
If I could divorce myself from some irrational need to do a job that my father (who built the place) would approve of, I would probably come to the conclusion that what I'm doing will exceed what the market will pay for and is good enough for this neighborhood.

You'll be fine. You've got the basics down solid. From that picture, it looks like it will turn out GREAT.

 

[benwah]

Out of curiosity which brush are you using?

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[tmcquinn]

With a brush I could've cut a decent line. But I have back issues so I'm using one of these with long handle.

This isn't the same brand but it looks very similar.

 

[tmcquinn]

I intended to wait another day (weak lungs) but I couldn't do it. It filled in fine. I didn't stay long enough to get a good photo but you can't even see where I stopped and picked back up. I think 2 more coats and I'll have just what I wanted.

 

[benwah]

Looks great! You'll have better consistancy with the next two coats. Beautiful floor, should last a long time.

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