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Oak or Poplar siding

LB62

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Oct 31, 2012
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NE PA
Im looking at board & batten siding on my new garage. Went by the lumber mill and they have 1"x8" oak and poplar siding. Has anyone used oak or poplar siding? Any issues or concerns I should look at?
 
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bob15

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Dec 8, 2011
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Northeasten, CT
Price will probably be quite a bit more than pine.

Not really sure if there is any difference between poplar oak as far as siding goes. Oak is a harder wood, but most people use pine which is softer than poplar. Not sure if one is more resistive to insects.

bob
 

Bondo

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Dec 22, 2007
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Greenfield, Maine
Ayuh,.... I wouldn't use either of those species,...
They Both Rot so quickly, especially the poplar...

'round here, Hemlock, or Tamarack are the 1st choices...
 

power wagon

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western maine the other alaska
oak a lot more expensive then popular, pine or cedar is more comman up here. oak and poplar when use with a high moisture containt needs to be very dry if not will split and warp, plus you have the shrinkage
 
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LB62

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Location
NE PA
I could buy 1"x8"x8'
Oak $5.07 ea
Poplar $4.53 ea

Thanks, I'm going to check around for cedar and pine
 

davej77

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Dec 6, 2012
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Do more research. I have read in multiple places that oak and poplar should not be used outside. And both are pricey. I'm not an expert, but there's a reason most people use pine or cedar.

I am adding some wood siding (105 drop siding) to the front of my house right now. I'm using pressure-treated southern yellow pine (I'm on the Gulf Coast). It much be primed with oil-based paint on all sides and coated with two layers of vinyl paint. I believe pine holds paint better than cedar, as cedar contains so much natural resin.

But again, do a lot homework before buy expensive wood that turns out to be the wrong thing. One thing I do know is that you need to go to a good lumberyard for the best siding materials. And even then, walk out to the shed and inspect the lumber yourself. Don't accept just what's easily available at big box stores.
 

bacpacker

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Sep 21, 2011
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East Tn
Popular was used around here for many years both as siding and as logs. There are still houses, barns, and out buildings around that are well over 100 years old using popular.

It CAN NOT be used where it will touch the ground or remain wet for extended periods. It will rot in those situations, but suspended on a 4-6" foundation and using gutters to control the water, it will last a long time.
 

tyjoja

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albany ore
for that price you could get hardy plank in 12 feet. cement siding would last you much better than anything listed above.
 

BigMike782

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Bacpacker is on the money.There is a building in our township that was built before the civil war and it has poplar siding....that's what they had and it is still in pretty fair shape.
When I was a kid a neighbor built a barn and used verticle rough sawn oak.Think about how many open bed equipment trailers have oak floors.....most of those probably have a good coating of motor oil or hydraulic fluid but just the same....
 

PWC Repair

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Arkansas
I don't know guys.....there are a lot of 75+ year old oak barns still standing all around my area. A couple years ago mine was torn down for the antique large oak boards and most of the wood was still in nice shape just past the weathered surface. You just need to spray some linseed oil heavily around the bottom to fend off bugs and rot.
 

bacpacker

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East Tn
LB check around some local saw mills. You should be able to get oak or popular for less than $2.00/1000bf. Rough sawn of course. Even so planning it shouldn't cost $2-3 more.
 

AZ Pete

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Central Arizona
White Oak would be suitable, Red Oak...probably not. White Oak is much more rot resistant, and weather tight due to its cellular structure (used in barrel making). Red Oak is preferred for furniture making...not external use. At least that was the story in my Wood Technology class in 1970...

I would opt for Hardy planks though...much better and you won't have to paint it nearly as often.
 

Kevin54

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Urbana, Ohio
You can't get cedar instead of oak or poplar? My $.02 on it, I wouldn't use poplar. Too soft of a wood and can easily rot. If those are your only two choices, I'd lean towards the oak.
 
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pop pop

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Virginia
Way back in the day.....Poplar was the choice for wagons and barns. It is light and does not rot. Oak was the choice for strength...framing, etc. Pine (original pine that is not available today) would hold up and not rot as well and was used anywhere. Today, not so much. Cedar is now the siding of choice (wood) as it naturally is treated to resist rot and insects except boring bees. They unfortunately love cedar siding. For price today cement board and vinyl have most of the market.
 
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LB62

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NE PA
LB check around some local saw mills. You should be able to get oak or popular for less than $2.00/1000bf. Rough sawn of course. Even so planning it shouldn't cost $2-3 more.

I can get it for:
Oak 1"x8"x8' for $5.07 each .63 cents a BF
1"x8"x12' for $7.60
Poplar 1"x8"x8' for $4.53 each .56 cents BF
1"x8"x12' for $6.80 each

To do my 28'x40' would be around $900.00
 

5lima30

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Mountains of Western NC
I used 1x12 rough sawn kiln dried white pine that I got from a local lumber mill for my garage. It worked out great I paid .70 a board ft. Kiln dried Poplar runs about 1.30 a board ft around here. Most of the old barns and out buildings around here are sided with poplar. Many of these boards are 14"-20" wide and are 80-100 yrs old. BTW, these old wide barn boards are very valuable!
 

c_mccann

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Oak is gonna cup and tweak when exposed to moisture. Poplar is better, but redwood, synthetic or Cedar is the best..
 

p_mori7

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Montreal, QC., Canada
I used rough sawn Hemlock on mine. Milled to overlap and look like reverse board/batten. Each plank is 1" x 8" x 10', and my cost was $6 each including the milling.

See pics in my build thread link in my sig below.
 

Mandres

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For $5 per board Hardi plank is the best choice imo. No rot, no twisting/cupping/warping, no scraping/painting every few years, no fire risk. It comes pre-primed or you can get it pre-painted.

Neither oak nor poplar is the best choice for siding. If you're set on real wood then use cedar.
 

rockchucker

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Seattle WA
Only Cedar if you go with real wood. Pine is good but not as resistant to rotting.


If you use Cedar I would protect it with Penofin. Great product.

http://www.penofin.com/

I use the Blue for Fences and Decks. Marine Grade for the Handrails that see more direct weather. To re apply all you do is clean the surface with a hose (brush for heavy deposits) then wait to dry and reapply. Application is with a sprayer, rag, brush or any other way you can think of.

If you replace it all then go with a stain as opposed to painting. I hate i when people paint over beautiful natural Cedar.

Just my 2¢
 

willymakeit

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Location
Springfield Mo.
White oak for exterior,used in barrels,boats and on barns sine time began. Poplar will fall a part quickly. Red oak has a higher sugar content and will rot quickly.
If you use oak ,spend more time sealing the end grain. Put under a microscope it looks like thousands of little straws.
 
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