Occupancy Motion Sensor Switch with ALWAYS ON Option!

[outdoorspace]

I just installed a few occupancy sensor switches around my house and I've been really pleased with how well they work and how much convenience they provide. I decided that it would be nice to have one in my garage, but the only problem is that I cannot find a setting on my switch that will allow me to bypass the occupancy sensor and keep the lights on until I manually turn them off! For the most part I'm usually just in and out of my garage in a few minutes. But when I'm working on a car or doing something else that would keep me outa sight long enough for the occupancy sensor to timeout, the lights would then turn of leaving me in the dark!

The model I have is a Leviton IPS02. I also checked out another model they had a Home Depot made by Lutron which will allow you to manually turn the lights OFF and keep them off for a certain amount of time, but it won't let you turn them ON and keep them ON. Go figure

So I'm wondering if anyone knows of an occupancy sensor that has a MANUAL ON/MANUAL OFF mode, or even an AUTO ON/MANUAL OFF mode. All I can find are ones that allow for AUTO ON/OFF MANUAL ON/AUTO OFF. I can't believe they wouldn't just make this an option. I know I could just wire a separate switch but seriously it doesn't make any sense when this is something so simple that could easily be incorporated into these already expensive occupancy switches!

 

[CNGsaves]

Brainstorm . . . . wire it as 3-way switch to bypass Occupancy Sensor when you're in shop ???

Just my .02 idea.

 

[outdoorspace]

You must have missed the part where I said "I know I could just wire a separate switch" lol

Just doesn't make any sense to cut up my wall so I can switch out my j-box to allow for two switches. If there isn't another model that allows for this type of setting then I'll just simply scratch the whole idea.

 

[404]

You must have missed the part where I said "I know I could just wire a separate switch" lol

Just doesn't make any sense to cut up my wall so I can switch out my j-box to allow for two switches. If there isn't another model that allows for this type of setting then I'll just simply scratch the whole idea.

Well I was going to post the same thing as CNG as I did not see that either. Maybe more paragraph breaks?

 

[cybrdyke]

Your situation is unique. And large manufacturers like Leviton and Lutron make their products for the masses. An Occ Sensor that had a "auto on/manual off" function would defeat the purpose of the sensor.
Most state laws, driven mostly by California, Nevada, and Texas laws, are requiring the new sensors to be "manual on" and "auto off". This is called a vacancy sensor. The thinking is that it's smarter to have someone turn the lights on and a sensor to turn them off. Why? Because if the sensor turned the lights on, it would do it every time, while a human may decide that they dont need the lights on (windows, etc) and leave them off.

But, there are sensors that have manual on/manual off overrides, like the one mentioned below.

 

[rlev11]

Leviton PR150-1LW 500W, have one similar to this in my second floor for the last 10 years or so, works great. About $17.00 on amazon

 

[ripperd]

Why turn all your lights on for the occupancy sensor? I just use the occupancy sensor on 2 bare bulbs for those quick run ins. If I'm working in the garage I flip the switch to turn on the rest of the lighting. I don't even notice the two bare bulbs turning off when the sensor can't see me and times out.

 

[purplezr2]

Why turn all your lights on for the occupancy sensor? I just use the occupancy sensor on 2 bare bulbs for those quick run ins. If I'm working in the garage I flip the switch to turn on the rest of the lighting. I don't even notice the two bare bulbs turning off when the sensor can't see me and times out.

This is what I plan to have, one that is just set for 5 minutes for when you walk in and grab an item.

 

[Trey T]

I think it's cheaper and performs better with a home automation system. Here's my recommendation:

1. Get a controller Veralite or Vera 3 (Z-Wave technology) $130-$160
2. Get a Z-Wave on/off switch $40
3. Get a motion sensor $40

That simple setup will do whatever you want and a lot more (security and energy saving). I have the Vera 3 controller w/ two GE switches and one GE outlet. You can control everything inside and outside of your home. Home automation system used to cost $10k for a simple setup but now you can control your exterior lights for about $200.

 

[black00lightning]

I've seen switches that if they stay, you can flip it off for couple of seconds and it will stay on permanently.

 

[outdoorspace]

Leviton PR150-1LW 500W, have one similar to this in my second floor for the last 10 years or so, works great. About $17.00 on amazon

WOW the only person who could read and give a logical response! I can't believe my lack of "paragraph breaks" didn't hang you up.

That switch will work PERFECT and that's EXACTLY what I was looking for. THANK YOU!

Well I was going to post the same thing as CNG as I did not see that either. Maybe more paragraph breaks?

Paragraph breaks really? What kinda school did you go to? Did they only teach you to read parts of a document and not the whole thing unless there are enough paragraph breaks? Man I bet people love it when you sign contracts for important things.

I think it's cheaper and performs better with a home automation system. Here's my recommendation:

1. Get a controller Veralite or Vera 3 (Z-Wave technology) $130-$160
2. Get a Z-Wave on/off switch $40
3. Get a motion sensor $40

That simple setup will do whatever you want and a lot more (security and energy saving). I have the Vera 3 controller w/ two GE switches and one GE outlet. You can control everything inside and outside of your home. Home automation system used to cost $10k for a simple setup but now you can control your exterior lights for about $200.

WTF bro are you serious? I already have a home automation system but that doesn't have ANYTHING to do with what I'm asking! Besides, who the hell recommends over $200 in products when there is a simple $17 solution?

 

[ripperd]

WOW the only person who could read and give a logical response! I can't believe my lack of "paragraph breaks" didn't hang you up.

You didn't really specify what your lighting setup was. If you only have a couple of bulbs then yeah, that's probably the right solution. But if you have a bunch of florescent fixtures like most of us it is really wasteful and not great for the ballasts to be flipping them all on every time you pop into the garage for a second. That was the basis of my recommendation of a separate circuit. But to each their own I guess.

 

[jabin]

Leviton PR150-1LW 500W, have one similar to this in my second floor for the last 10 years or so, works great. About $17.00 on amazon

I've had this switch in my mud room for several years with one light fixture on it. It works great, and of course, you can adjust the duration of time ON.

 

[404]

WOW the only person who could read and give a logical response! I can't believe my lack of "paragraph breaks" didn't hang you up.

Paragraph breaks really? What kinda school did you go to? Did they only teach you to read parts of a document and not the whole thing unless there are enough paragraph breaks? Man I bet people love it when you sign contracts for important things.

Ha ha ha. I went to a little engineering school on a river they call "Charles" for some reason.. groups of people row these really long pointed boats on it, why I don't know.

The school is so obscure you have probably never heard of it so I will not bore you with the name.

All I got from there was two big pieces of paper bound in thick red covers.

Contracts I read. I use a straight edge or ruler to uncover each line as I am about to read it. Internet posts? well free advice is worth what you pay for it.

 

[Trey T]

Sir, I don't even know how much you spent on your motion sensor switch. You did say "expensive". If you have a home automation system, why aren't you using it to its potential?

If you don't like people's suggestion, just move on. There's no reason to be ******* about it.

.... I know I could just wire a separate switch but seriously it doesn't make any sense when this is something so simple that could easily be incorporated into these already expensive occupancy switches!

...

...
WTF bro are you serious? I already have a home automation system but that doesn't have ANYTHING to do with what I'm asking! Besides, who the hell recommends over $200 in products when there is a simple $17 solution?

 

[Kevin C]

Ha ha ha. I went to a little engineering school on a river they call "Charles" for some reason.. groups of people row these really long pointed boats on it, why I don't know.

I went to an engineering school thats on the Merrimack (they had really low tuition) and didn't miss the part where the OP mentions a bypass switch. We had crew, but tended to only care about hockey.

OP... I know it can be frustrating; but its really common that people do a quick reply without taking the time read the question.

 

[Blk88GT]

Good thread, I have a need for exactly the same thing. Thanks for posting!

 

[wgasa84]

While this may not work for your needs (already found it on amazon), it could for someone else.

I put one of these in line with the wall switch because my wife would constantly leave the garage lights on when she would do laundry (laundry in the garage).

So most of the time the lights are turned on and off via the wall switch, but should she forget to shut the lights off, they go off in 10 minutes. It has a really wide field of view.

 

[farphle]

Leviton PR150-1LW 500W, have one similar to this in my second floor for the last 10 years or so, works great. About $17.00 on amazon

I have this switch (or one VERY similar) in my bathroom and it's perfect. It even let me set how dark it has to be before the light will automatically turn on. Too much light from window, light doesn't turn on. Want to turn the light on and leave it on, slide the switch over. Easy.

 

[404]

I went to an engineering school thats on the Merrimack (they had really low tuition) and didn't miss the part where the OP mentions a bypass switch. We had crew, but tended to only care about hockey.

OP... I know it can be frustrating; but its really common that people do a quick reply without taking the time read the question.

Well obviously you read better than I do.. I salute you.

Maybe the OP is training to take over Milacrons job or at least be
an indistinguishable interchange.

Anyway, I am glad this all worked out like it did. I learned a lot about the OP.

Regards,
404

 

[outdoorspace]

You didn't really specify what your lighting setup was. If you only have a couple of bulbs then yeah, that's probably the right solution. But if you have a bunch of florescent fixtures like most of us it is really wasteful and not great for the ballasts to be flipping them all on every time you pop into the garage for a second. That was the basis of my recommendation of a separate circuit. But to each their own I guess.

Yes I have 6 T8 fixtures total in the garage. But your post doesn't really make much sense as you say you recommend a separate switch because "it's wasteful and not great for the ballasts to be flipping them all on every time you pop into the garage for a second" but how does having a separate switch make it any better than having a motion switch that has the ability to act like a normal switch? I still need to see when I'm in the garage whether I turn them on manually or the motion sensor does it for me! Only difference is that now I will have the ability to KEEP THEM ON if I need to. If a ballast fails in one of the fixtures then oh well, time for a new ballast/fixture. I've been using the same fixture/ballast for well over two years now and they're still working great. If one dies I just replace the whole thing. Not a big deal.

Sir, I don't even know how much you spent on your motion sensor switch. You did say "expensive". If you have a home automation system, why aren't you using it to its potential?

If you don't like people's suggestion, just move on. There's no reason to be ******* about it.

I am using it to it's potential, almost everything in my house is controllable by my smartphone. But once again this has NOTHING to do with my original question. I'm not looking to turn on my garage lights with my cell phone, I'm looking for something that will turn them on automatically when I walk in for random things, but then I need to be able to force them to stay on for times when I am going to be in there for extended periods of time but might not be in sight of the motion sensor long enough to keep the lights on. I really don't know why that is so hard to understand. You'd think for being on a forum that is dedicated to "Garages" that people would be a little more understanding but I guess maybe most of you guys just use your garage to park your cars and that's it.

For the record, I've got no problem with peoples stupid responses, I've got no problem scrolling past them and moving onto the next comment. It's when people don't READ what was posted but then wanna play it off like it was someone else's fault making stupid comments like "use more paragraph breaks" that's annoying. Then I've got no problem being an *******!

Well obviously you read better than I do.. I salute you.

Maybe the OP is training to take over Milacrons job or at least be
an indistinguishable interchange.

Anyway, I am glad this all worked out like it did. I learned a lot about the OP.

Regards,
404

You can be a smart *** all you want. If you wanna look at it like that then I'm sure others have learned a lot about you as well. Like taking your advice with a grain of salt since clearly you don't like to read peoples threads that you respond to then get **** hurt when they call you out on it.

 

[hammlm]

Man, and Damn. Usually this kind of bellyaching and ****-slinging doesn't permeate the Electrical Forum. Everyone have cocktail and the next thing you're about to type that has to do with proving your point or winning an argument ---- DON'T!

Let's keep this forum the way it's always been; high and tight.

 

[Cmreschke]

Does your motion sensor have a switch position labeled test? If so turn it to that and see if that helps you out, sometimes the test position if available acts as a bypass to the sensor.

 

[outdoorspace]

Does your motion sensor have a switch position labeled test? If so turn it to that and see if that helps you out, sometimes the test position if available acts as a bypass to the sensor.

Yeah I seen a couple of styles that had something similar like what you're talking about on the Leviton website.

For example, this model ODS0D

You can see that it has an OFF, AUTO, ON which would allow you to do what I'm looking to do, however these settings are only available when you have the wall plate removed.

I just went ahead and ordered up the PR150 that rlev11 mentioned.

That was exactly what I was looking for, I can't think of anything else that would have worked out better.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[Cmreschke]

That's good.

 

[ripperd]

Yes I have 6 T8 fixtures total in the garage. But your post doesn't really make much sense as you say you recommend a separate switch because "it's wasteful and not great for the ballasts to be flipping them all on every time you pop into the garage for a second" but how does having a separate switch make it any better than having a motion switch that has the ability to act like a normal switch?

You apparently didn't read my first post. I covered that. Many of us started out with just the 2 or 3 bare bulbs that the house came with. I left those alone, and put those on the occupancy sensor. Then I wired my 9 T8's totally separate on a separate switch so I could run them independently when I was working in the garage.

 

[outdoorspace]

You apparently didn't read my first post. I covered that. Many of us started out with just the 2 or 3 bare bulbs that the house came with. I left those alone, and put those on the occupancy sensor. Then I wired my 9 T8's totally separate on a separate switch so I could run them independently when I was working in the garage.

Yeah that's cool I see what you're saying. I got rid of those "2 or 3 bare bulbs" and just wired in 6 T8 shop lights. When I go in my garage I want ALL my lights on. I can't stand those single incandescent bulbs they put in the garages. It's about as good as relying on the light that comes inside the garage door opener

 

[FordsnFishin]

Might check your currently installed switch for settings. Some can be turned up to where they will last for around 1/2 hour before they shut off. Might be enough for you while your in the shop.