Weird Tolkienish Figure
Well-known member
Anyone else paranoid that for whatever reason their torque wrench is out of calibration and you'll break something? It's making my OCD go crazy. 
OCD paranoia with torque wrenches
- Thread starter Weird Tolkienish Figure
- Start date
GirchyGirchy
Well-known member
No, but I paid the money for nice ones. If you're that worried use beam style.
gdocktor3
Well-known member
No. I think with experience you'll know when too much is too much. I have multiple brands and styles so when I feel too much is too much, I'll grab one of the others to compare. If your torque specs are 45 ft lbs, use a wrench that maxes out at 50 ft lbs vs one that maxes out at 150 ft lbs. Its easier to determine if you're over torquing with a smaller 3/8" torque wrench vs a huge 18" long 1/2" wrench.
pajibson
Well-known member
You can always have them calibrated
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APEowner
Well-known member
No, I send mine out to be calibrated on a regular basis just like I do with pressure gauges, multi-meters and oscilloscopes. I have certified weights for load cell and scale calibration so those I can calibrate myself.
sberry
Banned
Not really, use one so rarely dont even think about it. Never had one calibrated. In fact had a small engine in with a problem, put a wrench on the head and said,,, whoa. It was great someone used a torque wrench but read the spec wrong and doesn't have the feel to realize something is wrong.
I think the last one I used was on bottom end rod bolts and heads somewhere but its been a while.
I think the last one I used was on bottom end rod bolts and heads somewhere but its been a while.
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lakeroadster
Well-known member
Anyone else paranoid that for whatever reason their torque wrench is out of calibration and you'll break something? It's making my OCD go crazy.
Buy two, use one to confirm the other is working correctly.
You down with OCD... yeah you know me...
In The Doghouse
Well-known member
Buy two, use one to confirm the other is working correctly.
You down with OCD... yeah you know me...
I was thinking this. If you connect them together set at the same torque setting they should click at the same time. True?
kd3pc
Well-known member
Whilst OCD, I gave up years ago trying to keep up. Tight is tight, in most cases.
I was lucky in my recent coursework to go through SnapOn Torqure training, and brought in my almost 50 year old craftsman beam style torque wrench to compare to the latest SnapOn gear. It was within a pound on every lab test - between 45 and 150ft/lbs, as long as you read the scale properly and held it steady.
The more interesting part of the training is the role that fasteners, sealants/locks and threads and nuts and washers have in the process. Elastic phase and stretch are great to see.
YMMV
I was lucky in my recent coursework to go through SnapOn Torqure training, and brought in my almost 50 year old craftsman beam style torque wrench to compare to the latest SnapOn gear. It was within a pound on every lab test - between 45 and 150ft/lbs, as long as you read the scale properly and held it steady.
The more interesting part of the training is the role that fasteners, sealants/locks and threads and nuts and washers have in the process. Elastic phase and stretch are great to see.
YMMV
e36jon
Well-known member
Seconding what kd3pc said above, the torque wrench is only part of the process. The whole point of a torque wrench is to achieve the desired tension in the fastener, and the amount of noise due to other factors that end up contributing to the final result swamp any calibration issues typically.
That probably does nothing to lessen the OCD issue, but just wanted to put it out there. I have a similar issue: If it has a gauge I become fixated on the reading. Typically, for me, that means missing the bigger picture. It's why I gave up riding my bicycle with a heart rate monitor or a speedo, as those both kept me from enjoying (much less being present for) the experience.
That probably does nothing to lessen the OCD issue, but just wanted to put it out there. I have a similar issue: If it has a gauge I become fixated on the reading. Typically, for me, that means missing the bigger picture. It's why I gave up riding my bicycle with a heart rate monitor or a speedo, as those both kept me from enjoying (much less being present for) the experience.
sberry
Banned
This is why they came up with dry torque figures. With so many monkeys in the barrel with little or no training (see them with impacts at tire stores all the time and its obvious and they aint paid to care) they had to try a more universal approach and dumb it down.
John Deere tech training has a manual right up front for fasteners, it should be a must read before someone is allowed to get a wrench.
I have a manual from Snap for an old wrench and engineers of old understodd this very well and it says plain and simple,,,, all torque values are for clean lightly lubed threads. Doesn't say never seize either but lightly lubed and it is light oil or motor oil thinned a bit with kero,,, very similar to a modern penetrating spray with is really about the idea for bolts and nuts. We never have stuck or seized and really lube every bolt we install.
I got something in had cane back from a repair place, not only the wrong bolts in it but dirty and dry and it simply came apart.
Had concrete truck place in, wondered why the wheels were coming loose? Every bolt dry and rusty and I asked why. The genius says,,, well if we oil them they may come loose,,,, I had to ask,, why are you here,,, he says,, we wondering why the bolts are loosening. He cant grasp that they stopped turning but were not tight.
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Know Wosad
Banned
- Joined
- May 15, 2016
- Messages
- 811
I use beams on everything but hotrod stuff. Then I use my buddies Snap he uses at his engine shop.It turns out the beam is actually "close enough"(3-5 lbs at 50 lb level).........but that depends who you ask.
Most grub monkeys don't even clean up threads before they break out their $60/week super calibrated wrenches so doing clean work with the beam is likely as, or maybe more, spot on.
Most grub monkeys don't even clean up threads before they break out their $60/week super calibrated wrenches so doing clean work with the beam is likely as, or maybe more, spot on.
sberry
Banned
I saw a test on the net or TV, it was for electricians. Out of 10 1 was spot on at 25#, some were as low as 10 and they have absolutely no feel. I think maybe the lack of engine work today is a contributing factor, when I was a kid it was almost daily and had enough experience to get some comparison to what 25 or 30 or 85 felt like.
I checked a set of wheels I did the other day, juiced and ran on with an air gun. 18 or them within 5% 2 within 10, one high and one low.
I checked a set of wheels I did the other day, juiced and ran on with an air gun. 18 or them within 5% 2 within 10, one high and one low.
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sberry
Banned
I used to get a head gasket in on occasion and even got a "rebuilt" motor from a jobber with fancy dishwasher but they would have head gasket problems and it was from dipsticks that either didn't know or care that they bolts would be installed dirty and dry, don't know if the guy used a wrench o meter or not.
I know a few good mechanics learned without school, someone taught them. I am not academic so if I left it up to self study would read the interesting parts but on occasion its obvious someone has never been thru a trade school class. I can sit thru a lecture, more than doing or perfecting I can get the idea and the classes helped as much later as they did at the time.
My welding instructor qualified due to the fact he had some trade experience but his gig was small engines and I remember saying,,,, that aint whats wrong with it and it wont ever fail in this case cause the oil wasn't changed, he knew then a lot of people wasted a lot of time worrying about engine oil.
It certainly helped keep an eye on things and helped as things went wrong with the engine. They used to have PVC issues, people run wrong thermostats and ****** tune ups, clogged air and fouled plugs. Remember when there was a mystry part in them and it was part of a tune up to replace, maybe had we been more in tune would have solved problems earlier before an engine gunked??
There are a few problematic cases, I got bit once somewhat but it was really a matter of more thorough than often and should have been paying attn. But many good running engines of today could run well in to the 50K range with very little problem.
I know a few good mechanics learned without school, someone taught them. I am not academic so if I left it up to self study would read the interesting parts but on occasion its obvious someone has never been thru a trade school class. I can sit thru a lecture, more than doing or perfecting I can get the idea and the classes helped as much later as they did at the time.
My welding instructor qualified due to the fact he had some trade experience but his gig was small engines and I remember saying,,,, that aint whats wrong with it and it wont ever fail in this case cause the oil wasn't changed, he knew then a lot of people wasted a lot of time worrying about engine oil.
It certainly helped keep an eye on things and helped as things went wrong with the engine. They used to have PVC issues, people run wrong thermostats and ****** tune ups, clogged air and fouled plugs. Remember when there was a mystry part in them and it was part of a tune up to replace, maybe had we been more in tune would have solved problems earlier before an engine gunked??
There are a few problematic cases, I got bit once somewhat but it was really a matter of more thorough than often and should have been paying attn. But many good running engines of today could run well in to the 50K range with very little problem.
bmwpowere36m3
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2012
- Messages
- 1,125
Send it out yearly for calibration or if dropped. Buy a torque comparator and setup it up near your box and check the wrench before every use.
Or learn how to tighten hardware without a torque wrench.... problem solved.
Or learn how to tighten hardware without a torque wrench.... problem solved.
sberry
Banned
Some that use some and need adding becomes a real matter of how long does one want to leave a filter in service? I have added about 2 qts of oil to my service truck in near 10 yrs now and the same for my crane truck except it gets a gallon or 2 a year. My dozer has about 10 on it and I bought 20 gallon on sale. I got a tractor we usually do 1 a year, on the 2nd now and uses the same oil, got filters and they will get it.
I never stop to change oil anymore, it will get it when the unit may come in for other service work. I got a 2014 in now and was due, my Dad usually stops by the dealer for a special but doesn't get tires done and last time they let 20# out.
I had it in, this time I will do oil cause its here and if it lands in for a second rotation and hasn't been done will replace the Valvo 5/20 synth I found on the shelf I must have scored on super sale.
I was getting a coffee here as it drains.
I never stop to change oil anymore, it will get it when the unit may come in for other service work. I got a 2014 in now and was due, my Dad usually stops by the dealer for a special but doesn't get tires done and last time they let 20# out.
I had it in, this time I will do oil cause its here and if it lands in for a second rotation and hasn't been done will replace the Valvo 5/20 synth I found on the shelf I must have scored on super sale.
I was getting a coffee here as it drains.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My ocd caused me to purchase a beam style...
Finky198
Well-known member
The feel is the biggest part something you just have to learn in time.... I use my HF Clicker's most of the time, but I have the Digital adapter and a Good Beam style just in case I need more accuracy ...
This is a cheap way to test wrenches. You're not going to create a catasrophe if the TW is within 10% or so (clean/lubrication is 15-20% variance).
And you should be able to SANITY check with a beam. The reasons for not using a beam (bulk, visibility) don't apple to the bench.
Just don't confuse a sanity check with a calibration. And be generallly careful under 20NM, esp when working with alloy or castings.
Alot of damage can be done with a 300mm TW that isworking like a breaker bar, on say m6 valve cover bolts
Superbec
Well-known member
Anyone else paranoid that for whatever reason their torque wrench is out of calibration and you'll break something? It's making my OCD go crazy.
I just destroyed a cheapo I had for spark plugs ... damn thing was accurate but it didn't actually click every time !!!
(I threw it across the shop a few months back and found it a few days ago doing some winter cleaning)
I would cheap out at condoms before I cheap out at torque wrenches !!!
It can ruin your day/week even month !
I can do it by hand for lower torque and a wrench length that I'm used to , but above 100 nm it's all guess work
SMKS
Well-known member
If you're that worried then buy a digital torque adapter and use that to check your torque wrenches.
I bought one and it's an interesting little tool. Turns out all my torque wrenches are still pretty darn accurate, including my 8-year-old HF torque wrench.
I bought one and it's an interesting little tool. Turns out all my torque wrenches are still pretty darn accurate, including my 8-year-old HF torque wrench.