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Odd (not even) length Block Wall

Crazy68Dart

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To maximize available sq footage by zoning, would it be best to stick with an even length wall like 36' or could I go to 37'? I realize there may be some material waste. Will be footer/block/stick construction.

Thanks!
 
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Crazy68Dart

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I am just thinking to maximize my allowed space. If it is significantly more cost I will just stay with 36'x28' instead of 37'x28'. I am allowed 1200 sq ft, and have a 10x14 shed. I want to keep the shed to keep all the lawn equipment and other yard stuff, gasoline, etc. out of the garage.
 

Strouty

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Could you make one end of garage with an overhang? Take away the shed to get the bigger garage, then later add some outdoor storage under the overhang that is slightly enclosed.
 

larry_g

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36 is a good number for building, it is 8 sheets of ply, 12 pieces of 3' metal, and 18 two footers. That extra foot is just more than lost materials it is the labor to cut and fit all the pieces in that extra foot. I personally would not do it.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Strouty

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Larry has posed some very good points. How tall can you go? If you can make it high enough, you could have the trusses designed so you have a usable loft area for storage or office.
 

Kevin54

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I also in the camp for going with 36' instead of 37'. It just makes things so much easier as far as your cuts, less waste, and so on. My son built his garage at 25' instead of 24', and things were just a pain in the *** when figuring materials, and the scrap. Your trusses will have to be custom made at a higher dollar amount. And for no more than the extra foot did, it wasn't worth the hassle.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I'd got with 36x28 and keep the shed but I'd go just a bit more and max out the 1200 sqft rule.

36x28=1008
10x14= 140
total = 1148


max sq ft 1200
total above 1148
extra 52

You have basically 52 sqft left over. On the backside of your build add a small 6x8 bump out. It'll give you the perfect place for the air compressor, water heater or a folding cherry picker. You can make the entrance from inside (closet/utilty room) or outside (shed). Edit: Where you planning on adding a bathroom ? Perfect place for it with out losing actual garage floor space.

Somebody double check my math, as we should be at 1196 total with the 6x8 bump out, 36x28 shop and 10x14 shed.
 
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Strouty

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There you go, do the bump out, then make the roof even the entire width (or length) and pour a concrete pad there. Instant covered storage.
 

NUTTSGT

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There you go, do the bump out, then make the roof even the entire width (or length) and pour a concrete pad there. Instant covered storage.

See this is what's great about the GJ, I make some decent advice and then get one upped with a better modification to my advice. Awesome.

:beer:
 

rslaback

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A good mason can do 37' just fine. There isn't actually going to be any waste. The mason is going to run the 37' with 27.5 blocks per course and make up the other 4" by increasing the headjoint spacing. Masonry isn't all perfect dimensions to remove the need to cut block, the mason adjusts the headjoints and bedjoints to make the block fit the space.

If you were talking about waste in the wood products I wouldn't worry about it too much. Smaller pieces have a habit of being used somewhere. At most I'd say you'd have $150 or so of extra scrap cost, even if you just throw away any cutoffs.
 
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Crazy68Dart

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I've thought about a bump out too or possibly making a portion 30' then cutting it back in to 28'. But, seems like that would complicate the roofline. Garage is going to be eve entry 1 10x8 and 1 16x8 overhead door.

Thanks for the ideas guys.
 
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Crazy68Dart

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Also, zoning looks at the overall "footprint" for the sq footage. So, I was going to add a porch, but that is added to sq footage, so I am not doing a covered porch right now.

I am limited to 18' max and am going to use every bit of that. Plan is 10' walls, probably 22-24 ft of attic truss and the 10x8 scissor truss for the lift.
 

NUTTSGT

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If you can't do a porch, just make a small bump out on the the back or side. Depending what side you put it on, would dictate which roof to follow. If it's on the eave side, bring the roof line down to cover it. If it's on the gable end, just bring a tall roof line out. That might also give you some extra "second floor/loft" storage.

You do want you want my friend, your money/your shop. My suggestion is just to take full advantage of the size limit they put on your property. As a reference, I added a shed on to the back of my garage by closing in a back corner. I believe it's 5x9 and if you organize it, you can put a ton inside.

Footprint as started


Almost full and you can barely see the log splitter behind the red trailer.
 
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