Odd Scrap-Metal Item Wanted

[dwall174]

I know this is probably a long shot, But I thought I would throw it out there just incase someone happened to have one of these in their scrap bin.

What I'm looking for is the outer housing from a CV-Joint!

I'm not sure what it came from, But there's a part# inside the housing showing Spicer F2-99-89

I currently have 3 of these & I would like to find another one so I can use them as feet for a grinder stand I'm working on.

The condition of the CV Joint housing is not a issue & it could even be broken or cracked, As long as the pieces are there.

Here's a few more pictures & some dimensions of the ones I have.

Doug

 

[slowtwitch73]

If you don't have any luck, swivel machine pads work the same way and are fairly cheap.

Also, three points of contact will be wobble free always... maybe adjust your design?

 

[dwall174]

Also, three points of contact will be wobble free always... maybe adjust your design?

Yeah I've thought about that, And that's always an option!

I also have several old brake rotors that I could use for the back legs & then just use two of the CV joints for the front. That way it would still will have the built from auto parts look.

Doug

 

[RoninB4]

Using 3 feet will indeed make it wobble-free but lateral pressure while grinding might also make it easier to tip over. I'd suggest 4 feet to be safe. The brake rotor idea may also allow you to stand on one of the rotors so the grinder stand doesn't move away during grinding and be low profile so you don't trip over it. Just a suggestion.

 

[dwall174]

Using 3 feet will indeed make it wobble-free but lateral pressure while grinding might also make it easier to tip over.

Yeah that's what I was thinking also!
Plus the grinder I'll be using is an old 1HP. 3PH. Standard Electrical Tool Co. grinder which probably weighs close to 75lbs. Even with a heavy stand/base it will tend to be top-heavy.
Here's a pic. of the grinder with a 1-2-3 block sitting on the switch box for size comparison.

Another thing to consider is that I'll be using it mainly as a wire-wheel & even more lateral pressure is used during that type of use.


Doug

 

[RoninB4]

Wire wheel will definitely want lateral force to use and with the center of gravity being that high it will do a tip-over or "climb" up the workpiece at you. I would seriously suggest some guards on that. Dressing the grinding wheel will sling abrasive **** all over you if unguarded. Wire wheel can also spit the needles out as they let go, I've been macro-punctured by these now and then and sure wouldn't want one inserted in my face. I once worked at a larger company in the machine shop that had a pedestal grinder a bit larger that had the wire/abrasive set-up like yours. A guy that should have known better was using the wire and it dragged him in, threw the workpiece into his chest, and knocked him out. Myself and the shop painter were nearby, picked him up, and carried him (unconscious) to the plant nurse. My whole point is that a 1 HP motor has enough torque to do some serious damage to you in a heart beat. If it tips over it will climb the wall, chew your body, or launch a workpiece and you won't be able to stop it. Apologies for sounding like the safety police, just don't want to see you becoming the ****** mess the other guy did. I'd strongly suggest bolting that damn thing to the ground, wall, and fabricating some guards for it. Having said that, wish I had one like yours for my shop.

 

[dwall174]

I would seriously suggest some guards on that.

I'm going to be making guards for it that will also have dust ports since it will eventually be connected to a dust collector for metal. That grinder & several others are not even wired up yet! The pics are from me temporary setting them in place to figure out where to place some new circuits I recently added after installing a new sub-panel.

The grinder I need to make the stand for is temporary sitting on a cast-iron stand that belongs to a carbide grinder that's next in-line to be rebuilt. Once finished I plan to put that in-between the other two grinders.

I'd strongly suggest bolting that damn thing to the ground, wall

I've thought about that. But I always seem to be moving things around in the garage to try & gain some extra room.

I probably need to stay away from those on-line auctions.

Doug

 

[bczygan]

Try a pick and pull place or go to a automotive repair shop and check their scrap bins for a CV axle.

Bill

 

[dwall174]

or go to a automotive repair shop and check their scrap bins for a CV axle.

Yeah I haven't tried that yet, But that would be another option.
There are a couple of repair shops near me that specialize in front & rear axles.

Doug

 

[RoninB4]

The pics are from me temporary setting them in place to figure out where to place some new circuits I recently added after installing a new sub-panel.

-Going through that right now too and do the same thing setting location before adding the safety factor. Sorry if I jumped to conclusions, don't know your experience with industrial machinery.

The grinder I need to make the stand for is temporary sitting on a cast-iron stand that belongs to a carbide grinder that's next in-line to be rebuilt.

-I'd certainly like to have that grinder of yours in the shop too, have to use a green wheel in the surface grinder for carbide at the moment.


I've thought about that. But I always seem to be moving things around in the garage to try & gain some extra room.

-Right there with ya. I've got the 800 lb. granite surface plate stand on heavy casters, same with the 400 lb. oak bench and anything else that's a PITA to move or sometimes taking up too much real estate. After 3 years in this house I'm still rearranging to gain extra room too.


I probably need to stay away from those on-line auctions.

Doug[/QUOTE]

-If you discover how to do this I could use some advice on that.

 

[akalian]

How are you going to level it?
You might want to look into something like these.
It's a bit hard to see but they are mounted in a round socket and can adjust for an angle of maybe 10 degrees, and are plenty sturdy and adjustable up and down as well.

.

 

[dwall174]

don't know your experience with industrial machinery.

I worked in several machine shops for about ten years & I've operated various types of industrial machines including a huge radial arm drilling machine, But the main machine I ran was a Bridgeport.

If you discover how to do this I could use some advice on that.

It's sort of ironic, But the effects of "Covid-19" have somewhat slowed my buying of old woodworking & metalworking machinery.

I use to make a run every other month or so down to HGR Industrial Surplus near Cleveland, OH. It's like a gigantic "TOY STORE" for someone like me that likes to rehab old machinery!

Doug

 

[matt_i]

I use to make a run every other month or so down to HGR Industrial Surplus near Cleveland, OH. It's like a gigantic "TOY STORE" for someone like me that likes to rehab old machinery!

I can't do that. Its going to break me financially Too much cool stuff.

 

[RoninB4]

I worked in several machine shops for about ten years & I've operated various types of industrial machines including a huge radial arm drilling machine, But the main machine I ran was a Bridgeport.


It's sort of ironic, But the effects of "Covid-19" have somewhat slowed my buying of old woodworking & metalworking machinery.

I use to make a run every other month or so down to HGR Industrial Surplus near Cleveland, OH. It's like a gigantic "TOY STORE" for someone like me that likes to rehab old machinery!

Doug

-Something we have in common. One of my first jobs in a machine shop was running a large G&L radial drill press. Ran several in making stamping dies, great for non-CNC clearance holes in the die sets. Wish I had a smaller one like Arboga made. Also probably a good thing I'm not within driving distance of HGR, I'm short on available space and money as is.

 

[dwall174]

How are you going to level it?

The area I plan to put the grinder is pretty level already, I would probably just need to raise the front a little bit.

The top of the CV shaft is threaded 3/4"-16, I figured I would just weld a nut onto the end of the legs. Then I could use a thin jam nut to lock the foot in-place.

Doug

 

[dwall174]

Something we have in common. One of my first jobs in a machine shop was running a large G&L radial drill press.

The one in the shop I worked in was used mainly for drilling 3" dia. holes through 4-1/2" X 4-1/2" X 6" long aluminum blocks. The blocks were then used to make bearing housings.

Wish I had a smaller one like Arboga made.

Be careful what you wish for, Sending you a PM.

Doug

 

[foghorn1966]

Or use trailer hitch balls for levelling feet like mentioned in the bench build threads....
O.P. I have to say, that is a great looking conduit install where you have your grinders positioned.

 

[dwall174]

Or use trailer hitch balls for levelling feet like mentioned in the bench build threads...

Thanks for the idea, I may just happen to have a couple of old 1-7/8" balls in the odd parts bin.

O.P. I have to say, that is a great looking conduit install where you have your grinders positioned.

Thanks!
I was pretty happy with the outcome seeing this was my first attempt at actually bending the conduit. On other smaller projects I would just use the pre-bent stuff.

The box above the grinder on the left (last pic) is a DIY 3 phase fuse-box that's fed from my rotary phase converter. It's currently not wired yet, But the grinders will be hard-wired.

Doug