OH Door Brush Seals

[BoydS]

I've heard that a brush seal is the best way to go for an overhead door and would like to hear from anyone that has them installed. The good, the bad and the ugly ... opinions please..? I have 4 OH steel coiled doors that I would like to seal. The top of the doors is the area needing the seal (header or lintel area). I have visited both Memtech and Sealeze websites and reviewed their products and both seem to have what I need. I'm just looking for some feedback if you have installed these types of seal on your doors and what you think about them.

Thanks...

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The real cure is to use a door that is too tall for the opening, and mount the roll six inches to a foot above where it normally would be. This puts the gap between the door header and the door, at a minimum and that gap never changes. With the door installed where yours (and mine) are installed, the gap gets larger as the door goes down, and gets smaller as it goes up.

I too need a seal, but really don't think a brush seal is the hot ticket. I thought about fabricating some sort of spring loaded door that closes just as the door reaches bottom.

One alternative someone posted some time back is this.................

http://www.bnd.com.au/content/?action=getfile&id=330

Which is from this company in Australia.

http://www.bnd.com.au/

Charles

 

[bluesman2a]

I have the brush-type seal. When I got my door I didn't understand the gap at the top would be such an issue. Otherwise I would have ordered it as Charles mentioned (I have room to put in a 12'door on a 10' opening).

I'll also agree with Charles, I find the brush-type to be much less than acceptable.

 

[Blown71X]

This is a sore subject with me, for some stupid reason when I built my shop I felt I needed a big door in the front, 18x10 That is a whole `nuther story
It has just been a complete disaster trying to get it sealed up to what I feel is acceptable and so far only most attempts have been short term patches at best.
Initially it was ok when first installed...Then the temperature changed...You could throw a cat thru the gap at the top in the winter (expansion, contraction on inside/outside temps) well multiple trys from the original installer proved futile, finally called another company and they suggested Brush seals, I thought "OK" in theory this might work, and in all fairness it did help.
However as they have aged the last couple of years, the effectiveness has diminished a bunch. We have had a rather cold last 90 days and I have the electric bills to prove it.
I`m still trying to figure out a better idea as this is just a complete pain in the ***, The amount of bowing on this door with temperature changes is incredible and while one`s first thought is to pull it in tighter this time of year, the minute it warms up an opposite problem crops up, it goes the other way and catches at the header and won`t open (not a good thing with a jack shaft opener) Looking back now that big of door was a HUGE mistake, While it has it`s moments, they are few enough that the justification for it can`t be made and modifying for two smaller doors just isn`t feasible without completely tearing off that end of the building.

Rick

 

[BoydS]

The reason I stated the brush type is because the door mfg I bought them from suggested that, although they didn't tell me there would be an issue with sealing prior to the sell. My fault, because I didn't do my homework. Another reason is because thats what on the OH coiled doors at the job site I'm working on. The temps get to -40C, but the doors also have a hood over the drum. My concern is not as much weather, but birds as I'm in SE Texas. With spring coming upon us fast these critters will be looking for a place to build their nest and I see these gaps as an opportunity for them to enter my shop.

Originally posted by Charles (in GA)
The real cure is to use a door that is too tall for the opening, and mount the roll six inches to a foot above where it normally would be. This puts the gap between the door header and the door, at a minimum and that gap never changes. With the door installed where yours (and mine) are installed, the gap gets larger as the door goes down, and gets smaller as it goes up.

I too need a seal, but really don't think a brush seal is the hot ticket. I thought about fabricating some sort of spring loaded door that closes just as the door reaches bottom.

Too late for that as the doors are installed. I'll have to think a bit more about the idea of something spring loaded. It may work well though.

Originally posted by bluesman2a
I have the brush-type seal. When I got my door I didn't understand the gap at the top would be such an issue. Otherwise I would have ordered it as Charles mentioned (I have room to put in a 12'door on a 10' opening).

I'll also agree with Charles, I find the brush-type to be much less than acceptable.

What material are your brushes made of, nylon..?

Originally posted by Blown71X
However as they have aged the last couple of years, the effectiveness has diminished a bunch. We have had a rather cold last 90 days and I have the electric bills to prove it.

Are you saying that after only 2 years the brush seals have lost their effectiveness..? What material are those brushes...?

Thanks....

 

[bluesman2a]

What material are your brushes made of, nylon..?

The brushes are made of a synthetic "hair"... You know the kind of "hairy" stuff the UPS semi's have along their wheel wells?

 

[nissan_crawler]

It seems to me that the door panels need to be stiffened up if they're flexing that much. I have a 16' door, and have no issues with a rubber seal working year round in temps ranging from 0-100+. The door never moves.

Edit: How are your door panels made? Open back, steel wrapped? Braces on every panel?

 

[atvmech]

i have rubber external seals.....seals like a national

if you didnt get that....go to hell....

 

[Charles (in GA)]

It seems to me that the door panels need to be stiffened up if they're flexing that much. I have a 16' door, and have no issues with a rubber seal working year round in temps ranging from 0-100+. The door never moves.

Edit: How are your door panels made? Open back, steel wrapped? Braces on every panel?

I think he has a sheet type roll up door, not a sectional garage door.

Charles

 

[nissan_crawler]

I think he has a sheet type roll up door, not a sectional garage door.

Charles

DOH! I completely missed the coiled part, thanks. This makes sense then. I thought it was a sectional door sagging.

 

[Lravey]

I have the Sealeze brush seals on my two 10x10 corrugated rollup doors. I had large gaps at the top and the corrugation made for lots of air coming thru the sides. I talked to several Maintenance Managers at the chemical plants and refineries my company contracts with and this was the overwhelming recommendation. I just looked up the name of the guy I worked with at Sealeze. His name is Doug Baltz. When I descibed my situation, he was good enough to recommend some products & send samples to help me determine exactly what I needed. I wanted longevity so I bought the industrial version. I am very happy with the results. (My climate is same as yours. Just go east on I-10 until you hit Florida and you are at my house.)