Oil burner....the home heating kind

[Glacial_Speed]

Any oil burner techs out there? I need some opinions.

I'm currently using a Weil Mclain WTGO-3 boiler with a QB-180 burner. Last weekend the Suntec a2va7116 oil pump kicked the bucket after 15 or so years (don't know exactly how old the boiler is, bought the house with it installed).

I originally thought it was the ignition transformer, so that got replaced. It turns out that the oil pump was not putting anything out to the nozzle, while I was checking the bleeder for oil flow, which was fine (lesson learned). I also replaced the nozzle and the tank oil filter.

Anyway, after searching around I'm seeing the QB-180 is not held in high regard, however I've had pretty good luck with it for the past ten years. The primary relay is a Honeywell 4184D which isn't made anymore, but seems to be working fine (date code from 1997?). The motor is a marathon unit and has never given me any trouble. There was a solenoid valve that I took out of the path while troubleshooting, but forgot to unhook from power and it smoked/melted, but the boiler seems to be working fine without it. I replaced the electrodes (which are simple to install, but kind of a ***** they cost $35 online, more locally).

I was wondering how long do burners last, since it's the type of item that will cost $700 when you need it, and $350 if you don't. I've replaced most of the items on it (nozzle, electrodes, electrode wires, oil line from pump to nozzle, oil pump, ignition transformer)..... but it might be nice to have a backup.

It's old school technology, but the last time I had it checked it was running at 85%.

I'm getting a tuneup from someone with some testing tools because I could only guess at the pump pressure on the new unit. I did adjust it so there wasn't any soot from the chimney, but it needs to be better dialed in that that.

So, should I get a backup burner (like a beckett B8811) or will it just be money wasted for a box sitting unused on the shelf?

I do plan on getting rid of the tankless water heater and getting an indirect water heater, but I don't think it will affect the burner one way or another. I'll need to put in another zone for the indirect water heater, but I'm not sure if I'm going to ditch the Aquastat (8124A) or not.

And since I didn't post this in the "show your motor" thread


EDIT: When I tried to open the door it seemed to be stuck, and I didn't want to force it, is it common for boiler doors to get stuck or hung up on the door blanket?

 

[Dagny]

Just get a motor and keep it on a shelf everything else is new. Also pick up a coupling from motor to pump.

 

[Jackfre]

I would exp ct that the cast iron sections are the same as from '97. Look at what is on the current 3sections. Also, the gas utility offers some pretty aggressive rebates for conversions to nat'l gas, if it is available. It would be worth looking at what is available before doing anything. You are correct to get the unit tuned up. Get it thoroughly cleaned at the same time. I've spent a lot of time with combustion Analyzers on oil equipment and getting the unit to burn so you cannot see smoke is no indication of how cleanly it is actually burning.

 

[nh_yota]

Both of my parents' houses use oil heat and have Beckett burners that are at least 20 years old at this point. Beckett is the most common oil burner around here. In my own house I have a boiler with a Midco gas conversion burner that's 12 years old.

 

[nh_yota]

Regarding the age of the boiler - get the serial number and call WM support.

 

[ctfjr]

Even a 20 year old oil burner is fairly modern technology - there hasn't been a whole lot of improvements in them in that period that are going to gain you much, if anything. The new motors (pretty much all) use ball bearings instead of sleeve bearings. It might be worthwhile to change your motor but I wouldn't pull the burner.