Got some minor but very important wrenching done--changing oil. Made me think of all the different oil change scenarios I've done on my vehicles. Don't remember how the oil was changed on the 1940 Ford i learned to drive in, Daddy got someone to do it since he couldn't see well due to World War I injuries. I cgange some oil in the 1953 Ford OHV 6 cylinder, it had the new type spin on filter on the side of the motor. The car companies had a lot to say about how this was a better system because there were oil lines going from the cartridge thye filter housings to the motor and they might break and leak the oil out, but I think a main reason was that it was cheaper to manufacture the spin on housing and make the car owners pay for the more expensive filters.
As time went on, oil changes became more difficult as cars were built smaller and closer to the ground. Fast forward to the early 1990s and a 4 cylinder Mazda, DOHC. The oil filter was on the back of the cross mounted engine. I had to run it up on ramps and go under the car, reach up to the oil filter, and have oil run down my arm. We have had a few Camry 4 cylinders. The 1985 and 1991 models were great to change oil in. Raise the hood, the filter was on the front of the motor easy to get to, oil filter faced down so oil didn't run down your arm. Drain plug easily accesed. The later 2000 and 2005 models have the oil filter facing down at the front of the motor so that I'm back to having the oil run down my arm. None of the Camrys have the oil filter in a place where I can get to tghem with a strap wrench, so I have had to buy the little cup type wrenches that fit in the end of the filter. Thats ok, but once the filter was on too tight from a dealership oil change and I had to go buy a wrench with the collapsing arms tha clamp tightly on the filter, and I thought I wasn't going to get it off.
Now having complained about the Japanese cars, I changed the oil in my 1972
Ford f 350, 360 motor. Oil filter is easy and any kind of wrench could be used in case of problems, but the drain plug is behind a frame member. It takes a 7/8 wrench. A socket won't go in place. Probably a extra shallow socket would. Had to go in from the front over the cross member with a combination wrench. Fortunately plug wasn't too tight. Could have used a long style ratcheting wrench.
Had altenator on the Ford rebuilt. Cost $45, all new parts inside. Old case bead blasted, looks like new. New voltage regulator installed, $16. Not too bad a job but 3 hands would have been briefly useful.
KEH
As time went on, oil changes became more difficult as cars were built smaller and closer to the ground. Fast forward to the early 1990s and a 4 cylinder Mazda, DOHC. The oil filter was on the back of the cross mounted engine. I had to run it up on ramps and go under the car, reach up to the oil filter, and have oil run down my arm. We have had a few Camry 4 cylinders. The 1985 and 1991 models were great to change oil in. Raise the hood, the filter was on the front of the motor easy to get to, oil filter faced down so oil didn't run down your arm. Drain plug easily accesed. The later 2000 and 2005 models have the oil filter facing down at the front of the motor so that I'm back to having the oil run down my arm. None of the Camrys have the oil filter in a place where I can get to tghem with a strap wrench, so I have had to buy the little cup type wrenches that fit in the end of the filter. Thats ok, but once the filter was on too tight from a dealership oil change and I had to go buy a wrench with the collapsing arms tha clamp tightly on the filter, and I thought I wasn't going to get it off.
Now having complained about the Japanese cars, I changed the oil in my 1972
Ford f 350, 360 motor. Oil filter is easy and any kind of wrench could be used in case of problems, but the drain plug is behind a frame member. It takes a 7/8 wrench. A socket won't go in place. Probably a extra shallow socket would. Had to go in from the front over the cross member with a combination wrench. Fortunately plug wasn't too tight. Could have used a long style ratcheting wrench.
Had altenator on the Ford rebuilt. Cost $45, all new parts inside. Old case bead blasted, looks like new. New voltage regulator installed, $16. Not too bad a job but 3 hands would have been briefly useful.
KEH
