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oil changes and other wrenching

KEH

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Jan 31, 2010
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Got some minor but very important wrenching done--changing oil. Made me think of all the different oil change scenarios I've done on my vehicles. Don't remember how the oil was changed on the 1940 Ford i learned to drive in, Daddy got someone to do it since he couldn't see well due to World War I injuries. I cgange some oil in the 1953 Ford OHV 6 cylinder, it had the new type spin on filter on the side of the motor. The car companies had a lot to say about how this was a better system because there were oil lines going from the cartridge thye filter housings to the motor and they might break and leak the oil out, but I think a main reason was that it was cheaper to manufacture the spin on housing and make the car owners pay for the more expensive filters.

As time went on, oil changes became more difficult as cars were built smaller and closer to the ground. Fast forward to the early 1990s and a 4 cylinder Mazda, DOHC. The oil filter was on the back of the cross mounted engine. I had to run it up on ramps and go under the car, reach up to the oil filter, and have oil run down my arm. We have had a few Camry 4 cylinders. The 1985 and 1991 models were great to change oil in. Raise the hood, the filter was on the front of the motor easy to get to, oil filter faced down so oil didn't run down your arm. Drain plug easily accesed. The later 2000 and 2005 models have the oil filter facing down at the front of the motor so that I'm back to having the oil run down my arm. None of the Camrys have the oil filter in a place where I can get to tghem with a strap wrench, so I have had to buy the little cup type wrenches that fit in the end of the filter. Thats ok, but once the filter was on too tight from a dealership oil change and I had to go buy a wrench with the collapsing arms tha clamp tightly on the filter, and I thought I wasn't going to get it off.

Now having complained about the Japanese cars, I changed the oil in my 1972
Ford f 350, 360 motor. Oil filter is easy and any kind of wrench could be used in case of problems, but the drain plug is behind a frame member. It takes a 7/8 wrench. A socket won't go in place. Probably a extra shallow socket would. Had to go in from the front over the cross member with a combination wrench. Fortunately plug wasn't too tight. Could have used a long style ratcheting wrench.

Had altenator on the Ford rebuilt. Cost $45, all new parts inside. Old case bead blasted, looks like new. New voltage regulator installed, $16. Not too bad a job but 3 hands would have been briefly useful.

KEH
 
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porschedude996TT

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I don't think that there is anyone doing human maintenance factors in the automotive world. The powerplant engineers never talk to the chassis engineers except for the hardpoint connections and a few basic tid-bits of information. They need to model the whole automobile and maintain it for 60,000 miles.
 

Scout Driver

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The 4 cylinder Chevy Celebrities we used to drive had a cartridge style filter that was inside the oil pan. Turning what appeared to be an oil plug actually turned a big cover that released the filter and 99% of the oil all at one time. We were tempted to buy a cheap kidde-pool to use as a drain pan.

Scott
 

Old Donn

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Easiest was an old 72 Pinto 2000cc 4 banger. The drain plug and filter were accessible from under the hood. Barely got my hands dirty. The worst was my daughter's Pontiac Sunfire. Filter was on the firewall side of the engine, accessible only from underneath, the exhaust pipe expansion joint was right in the way. Filter had to be loosened and the area cleaned by the Braile system and oil went everywhere when the filter seal was broken. A good little car, but a PITA to service.
 

cheap bastard

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No one is responsible for engineering ease of labor in the auto industry. Buildability at 45 second cycle times is all they consider along with cost savings--at any expense. When repair or maintenance procedures can be performed in some way, it's approved. The industry is my work and I see it every day.
 

Chadro

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Makes me glad the only oil changes I do at work are on big trucks, almost always a breeze. You just have to be more careful with 10 gallons of oil shooting at you.
 

impulse922

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SA, TX
New cars are made to be worked on. Sure there are always going to be 30 minute bolts on every job, but for engine bays to be cramped like they are these days and still be "doable" is a miracle in itself.

Older cars just always had the space or lack of clutter, so it wasn't as bad, but nowadays, its a little different.
 

Steve from Socal

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Actually I have mentioned this before; Mercedes has promoted using vacuum extraction via the dip stick for many years and the filters are all serviceable from the top. I have cars that take both spin on and canister filters, the canisters are easy to change and I don't even spill a drop of oil.

Steve
 

Kev442

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Access to the vehicle is why I continue to do oil changes. 20 years ago I refused to do the Pinto or ******, total BS oil changes. Moved into Chev Celebritys with the V6 and they were pretty easy. Now doing Chrysler vans and the easiest ever. Having done 135 and counting on these vans, easy matters!
 

egdede

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Fast forward to the early 1990s and a 4 cylinder Mazda, DOHC. The oil filter was on the back of the cross mounted engine. I had to run it up on ramps and go under the car, reach up to the oil filter, and have oil run down my arm.
KEH


Mine was 1996 626. I loved that car, the dash vents swung side-to-side.
 

Dust

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I have to say my favorite cars to do service work on are the PT Cruisers. Drain plug and filter are right next to each other, the plugs are fairly easy to change (Even though the intake has to come off, a ten minute job), and everything else is pretty accessible. I'd hate to have to do any major work to them, though.

Some of the worst are the 4x4 Liberties or Nitros. The front diff is right underneath the filter, and there's about 3/4 inches of swing. Even worse if it's the factory filter, which I think was installed by a retired Detroit Lions linebacker.
 

alamerang

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Worst car was the mid 90s GM small cars like the Cavalier. As it was said above, the filter was in the back of the engine and the exhaust ran right under the filter. As soon as you took it off, a little dribble would fall on the pipe without fail. When I worked as a grease monkey at Pep Boys back then I would just tell customers that their car was going to smoke a bit and explain it to them before I even took the car in so they didn't freak out that their car was smoking when they left.

Easiest car is my 06 Wrangler 4.0. Filter is easily accessible from the top and I don't even have to jack the thing up to get under it to drain the oil.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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Running about 600 miles a week for that last 15 years and being a cheap SOB = I do lot oil changes A LOT.
One of the reasons I like my Nissan's (had / have a bunch) is they have always been easy to work on - stuff is placed where it makes sense and is reasonably easy to work on. Even the new little Cube being as low / small as it is, just needs to be run up onto a block of wood for an extra couple inches to do a quick oil change...I did buy the exact right oil filter "socket" for it, though since the filter is too small for any strap type wrench's -- I think it's the same filter that's on my lawnmower.......
 

DARKSCOPE001

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Ive only changed the oil in 3 cars (multiple times in each but only 3 diff cars) Worst car was probably my dads sx4. First off that car is a PITA to jack. There is not really a big beefed up structure to jack from like on my car and my girlfriends malibu. So I joined a forum and found the proper jacking procedures. You jack the car from the controle arms at the underside of the struts, Well I get under there and first off my little jack barely fit under there and gave me enough room to stroke the handle. Ontop of that the jack pad and the bottom of the strut are THE SAME SIZE! so the entire time I was worried it was going to slip. got the car up and on stands. put my xl ratchet on the drain bolt and push thinking its going to be easy. NOTHING! push more switch the ratchet to the other size so that im pulling down at me. NOTHING. GROAN, then finaly I wack the ratchet with my hand and send the ratchet and socket acrost he garage with no luck of losening the bolt. My dad who cannot bend down to see what im doing or help me asks me if I want to just put the car down and we will take it to an oil change place. I told him no because this is how it F-ing got this way in the first place and the car is already up in the air so we are halfway through the battle. also he uses full synthetic so for me to do the oil change I saved him about 30 bucks and got him a way better filter (puralator pure one vs. penzoil non descript) Finaly with one last idea I took my xl ratchet and held the head on the bolt with my hand and bump the handle with my palm and finaly moves. Filter was barely on. but it wasnt to bad with the cup style wrench. But I was draining the oil into the pan. let it drip out over dinner and made sure it was all in the pan. Came back (from a great dinner my dad made me) and oil ws all over the ground WTF! mop up the old oil. Put the drain bolt back in install filter and fill her up. But man that car is hairy to jack. 99 Malibu ls drain bolt is easy enough but the filter is kind of a pita. 99 Elauntra is a EASY Filter is on the front of the engine more or less under the front bumper and its low and when it comes off oil doesent drip down and get all over componients and stuff. Sorry for the word wall guys

LATER
Sean Scott :beer:
 

rrudd2

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Chrysler must factor basic maintenance into it's design...

Oil changes on our 97 Plymouth Grand Voyager and my daughter's 04 Dodge Neon are quick, easy and relatively clean. On both vehicles, the drain plug and the filter are easy to access. The filters hang straight down and don't splash or leak on to any part of the undercarriage.

My Mark VIII's on the other hand.... I'd like to punch the contortionist that designed the location of the oil filter. On top of needing a 2nd elbow in my forearm, I get an oil bath with every filter change. Motorcraft actually came out with a shorter filter to fit up into place without scratching the heck out of it it on various hose clamps and the k-member while trying to get it in place.
 

z28snksknr

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Turnersville, NJ
Great thread. Never thought about all the situations that I've dealt with over the years of changing friend's oil.

Easiest I've ever some across (I'm not as lucky as some her) is my Camaro. Vertical filter, right next to the oil pan. I can do it without getting a drop of oil on me or anywhere else, and I'm done in <10 min usually.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
My F150s since 2001 are all a PITA to change, so I let the dealer do it. Screw it - they have clean up the mess. Cars are not built so much to service - take a walk through a Ford dealer service dept and notice that for any real engine work -especially a truck- the body will be in the air on a lift and the chassis sitting on the ground. That's also the easiest way to service a Mustang - drop the front subframe unit and lift the body off. I'll change/service my old cars - somebody else can work on the new ones. Pay up front for a 100K+ 6 yr warranty, trade soon after the warranty expires.
 
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lilredex

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The car companies had a lot to say about how this was a better system because there were oil lines going from the cartridge thye filter housings to the motor and they might break and leak the oil out, but I think a main reason was that it was cheaper to manufacture the spin on housing and make the car owners pay for the more expensive filters.

KEH

That ain't quite the whole story, those piped up filters remotely mounted are "bypass" type filters......they only catch part of the oil. Those block mounted types are "full flow". Chrysler had a full flow filter on their flathead six.........but it was rarer than hen's teeth.

Was looking for my copy of that old PM ad flogging toilet paper refills.........seems to be hiding. Anyone remember those? I actually saw a couple, working around cars in the fifties.
 
OP
K

KEH

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I remember seeing the toilet paper refils advertised, they didn't last long, never saw one used.

KEH
 

Arne73

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Mar 20, 2010
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2.0T HHR SS and 2.4 HHR-
Easy access to the drain, cartridge filter right in the middle of the top of the bay-easy. A little low but easy.

My biggest oil change nightmare was the first time I did my 85 Subaru GL wagon. I drained the ATF by mistake, was at work and had the wife bring me some. Then when I tried to get the ENGINE OIL drain plug out it was stuck. Gave up and took it back to the dealer where I bought it. I can still picture the mechanic hanging on that plug trying to get it off- crush gasket jammed in the threads.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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This thread reminded me: I worked for an on-site maint. company for a short time just after I got out of the military. My crew once did an airport rental-car fleet. There where 6 of us and a mgr. guy that got us started, then left for most of the job. Imagine doing about 250 oil changes in about 6 hours......First guy runs down the line of cars dropping drain pans in front of each car. 2nd guy was the expert contortionist who could put the pan under and remove the filter on ANY car they had in the fleet without jacking it up. 3rd guy crept along the line in his van matching up and installing new filters (half of them probably wrong - if it screwed on, it got used) The rest of us drained / refilled 'em. Not one car was warmed up, but we did start each one and check for leaks when we where done.....the poor quality of that companies work was a big factor for me switching jobs.....
 

TireTracks

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Yakima,Washington.
The filter on my truck is right ontop of the passenger exaust. Not looking forward to doing it after i put headers on.

mabey i should get a oil filter relocater.
 

wafrederick

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Holton,Mi
There is a special socket for the 2.2 ecotecs,a 1 1/4 socket in 3/8 drive.I have one of these since my Grandma Rose has a saturn with the 2.2 Ecotec.Worst domestic vehicles to work on are Fords!Ford has this explanation:If there is a hard way to do things we have have it.Ford does everything the hard way.Most engineers from the car companies need to visit shops to see what Mechanics like me go through.Volkswagons are one of the worst import cars to work on and are basically a glorified Audi.Audi is a glorified Volkswagon.Audi and Volkswagon are owned by the same company using the same parts.Had to find an oil leak on a Volkswagon once,took the front end apart to find this leak.I have been told taking off the radatior support front bumper is the easiest way to get to the front of the engine of a Volkswagon
 

blarf

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I drove RWD Volvos for a while. On the 240s, the oil filter sticks out of the block at a 90 degree angle. It's right behind the alternator, which, on the turbos, is rather large. I learned pretty quickly to disconnect the battery when doing an oil change. The 700/900 turbos weren't quite as bad as the alternator was up top on the other side of the engine, and the later 700s had an angled adapter, but you still had to be careful to avoid getting oil all over the motor mounts. Come to think of it, a lot of things on those Volvos were difficult to R&R, but the cars were very forgiving of mistakes.

The older Camrys weren't so bad, except that the super conveniently placed oil filter was right above the exhaust manifold. Sure you're not dripping oil all over yourself, but you're getting one of the hotter components on your engine all nice and oily.

I moved on to a newish BMW last year, and have been utterly shocked at how much easier a lot of the maintenance is. Fewer things are press fit resulting in installation being quite a bit easier. The quick disconnect fittings on the coolant hoses are neat, but the o-rings aren't available separately and there's lots of plastic (on the plus side, the hoses are way cheaper than the ones for the turbo Volvos). The oil filer is up top and of the cartridge variety, but I've yet to do an oil change on it because the local dealer will do one for roughly the retail cost of oil. The amount of rubber and plastic keeping this car together makes me very, very nervous... but so far it feels like it was designed to be maintained by a human and not a contortionist.

Hell even the gasket on the oil filter housing looks easier to deal with. Volvo: ~36mm socket (try finding one of those at Sears...) + a couple o-rings that are a bear to keep in place. BMW: take off a few engine accessories, lots of small bolts, and a gasket that fits into a groove nicely.

The one that always made my head hurt was the 1st gen Taurus. Apparently both metric and SAE fasteners were used on the transmission. Ouch.
 
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tyreguy25

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I have owned several modern fwd cars and oil changes are often an adventure. I have also owned pickups and SUVs and I have to say that my easiest vehicle to change it on was my 1997 Chevy 1500 V6, and the worst was my current DD a 2001 Kia Sephia. The Fram 6607 (or other applicable filter) is right under the intake manifold on the back of the motor which always causes several four letter words and several skinned knuckles. My 1998 Contour SVT had one of the easiest filters to access being right on the front of the motor above the subframe rail. It was easy until I lowered it too far to be jacked up and too low to drive on my ramps. My 1997 Cavalier with the manual transaxle was much easier than my buddy's 1995 with the automatic. There is more space with the manual.

The point is that the engineers are overpaid idiots and the mechanics are the fools that get f*d over by their negligence.
 

jay50

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That ain't quite the whole story, those piped up filters remotely mounted are "bypass" type filters......they only catch part of the oil. Those block mounted types are "full flow". Chrysler had a full flow filter on their flathead six.........but it was rarer than hen's teeth.

Was looking for my copy of that old PM ad flogging toilet paper refills.........seems to be hiding. Anyone remember those? I actually saw a couple, working around cars in the fifties.

That's right; those external tapped in oil filters were tapped into an external oil line. IIRC, they were aftermarket, not factory. Only partially filtered.
Again, IIRC, the first full flow oil filter was used in mid 50's by Chevy.
 

moparmuscle88

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Westminster, MD
chrysler LA small blocks (318, 340, 360) all all easy to do. especially the truck engines, which have the filter directly to the block instead of the car/ passenger vehicle 90* adapter

done it on many other cars, but they are by far the easiest
 

tjmonsen5

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Crystal Lake IL
My 87 BMW 3 series is really easy. Drain plug and oil filter are right there, easy to get to.
My girlfriends Saturn ION is even easier. Easy drain plug and has the cartridge filter on top of the engine. Just need my big socket and an extension. The vacuum lines are curved around to fit the extension. Its pretty nice.
My dads Audi A8 isnt too bad, but requires taking offf the skid plate and all that junk,
 

haggis

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Mar 29, 2008
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Boise, ID
I do quite a few oil changes for friends and neighbors, but the best and worst cars are the ones I own.

The easiest is my 2005 GTO, the oil filter is vertical and easy to get to. Skid plate bolt and oil drain plug are both 13mm.

The worst car I have encountered is my Wife's 2002 Jetta. You first have to remove the plastic shroud under the bumper, which is held on with torx screws.

The filter is on the front of the engine, tangled in a loving embrace with a power steering line and an AC line. You have to try and squeeze the filter out between the lines whilst trying not to drop it on yourself as the oil pisses out all over your mits.
 

lilredex

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That's right; those external tapped in oil filters were tapped into an external oil line. IIRC, they were aftermarket, not factory. Only partially filtered.
Again, IIRC, the first full flow oil filter was used in mid 50's by Chevy.

These are the ones I was referring to, and was how they came from the factory.

Hosted on Fotki

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As far as those F/F fliters go, I don't know what GM was up to. The ones I saw were on 1946-48 Chrysler and Dodge (U.S. Made)

The T.P. ad. from PM 12-51

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Jeff

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Sonova Beach
My 2010 Tacoma has the oil filter mounted up top so changing it is a breeze. Best design I've seen ever.

I switched out my drain plug with a Fumoto oil drain valve. Just flip a lever and your oil drains. No wrenching! Don't be confused with the crappy oil drain valves from Fram. Fumoto is the real deal from Japan.
 

filtered

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Berks Co. PA
I have a 98 Nissan Frontier that is a complete pain in the *** to change the oil in. You can't see the filter. You can barely touch it from the top. From the bottom you have to remove the skid plate and stick your arm up there to feel for it. Trick is only hand tighten the filters. Over tighten that thing are you'll never get it off. Now my 94 Suzuki Samurai is a breeze. Filter is right there on the drivers side of the engine. The only thing it drips on is the front axle tube, not a big deal at all. I'm just glad I don't have to jack either of them up.

I was looking at a filter relocator for my Frontier. Are there any issues with relocators I should be aware of?
 
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