Oil Filter Wrench Comparison

[The Critic]

So, I want to purchase a new set of oil filter wrenches since I currently have a band type wrench that I hate.

I have been considering one of these wrenches:

https://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-63600.aspx

However, someone said that a claw type is much better:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=11539&group_ID=1534&store=&dir=catalog

What do you guys think? Which of those would you pick? Or am I better off with a nylon socket/cap style wrench?

In addition to purchasing one of those wrenches, I am also considering the purchase of a pliers type wrench for those locations where I cannot use a cap style wrench. Do you folks think having both types (cap and pliers) is a good investment?

Thanks!

 

[krusty the clown]

i don't know......i hate oil changes because the oil comes out too fast

 

[The Critic]

i don't know......i hate oil changes because the oil comes out too fast

Me too...that's why I avoid oil changes whenever possible.

 

[Joe H]

I have used both and I can tell you that IMO the second one that you posted *****. It works great at first but then eventually it wears out and wont grip the filters very well at all. I have two of the first style you posted (a big one and a small one) and they have worked great for me. I believe mine were made by Lisle and I have never had any issues with them.

 

[sr20det]

This is my "go-to" tool..

http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/212_-_12_inch_Oil_Filter_Plier_P20C5.cfm

If I cannot use that tool because of the filter position, I use a metal cap wrench.

but if your selections are the only 2 to pick from, I would pick the first style.

 

[Old Donn]

Don't know about the top one, but that claw in the 2nd picture isn't worth the time it takes to talk about it. I use the cap style. You'll need more than one, not all filter cans are the same, but they work 99% of the time.

 

[tonydanzah]

that channellock version is where its at

 

[krusty the clown]

actually the VIM style is much better than the channellock's

 

[rsanter]

if you have the access, the filter pliers are the ones I grab first.
whatever you buy, you will want a set of the pliers
however some vehicles are too cramped to get the pliers to work. my truck for instance will not allow me to use them.
I change my own oil, so every time I have been able to reach up and break the filter loose with my hand

bob

 

[tonydanzah]

actually the VIM style is much better than the channellock's

without pics, your a liar

 

[Joe H]

I like my blue point filter pliers.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1535&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[petty4243]

i use some of most already mentioned, plus a few of the cup styles, seem some work awsome in certain locations and worthless in others

 

[Joelfke]

I believe it is MAC that makes a claw type style but it has three round "arms" instead of flat ones. Saved my **** when nothing else worked and the tech next to me helped me out

of course now i cant find it...

EDIT! aha! matco has it. Part#: MST4568 Price: $13.80
http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/mst4568_thumb.jpg

 

[bigsteve1969]

i don't know......i hate oil changes because the oil comes out too fast

hammer + punch on filter... also look into a fomoto drain valve. used on alot of 7.3's i see

 

[bindernut]

I have that Snap On one. It works fine on the cummins in my Dodge!

 

[Tim Cowan]

I have the Lisle on the top picture and it works great on my 2008 Cummings diesel, other type band wrenches won't get it done. Still wear a old shirt; the oil is black and usually splatters.

 

[bigsteve1969]

it works great on my 2008 Cummings diesel, .

Cummins diesel

 

[Joe H]

Cummins diesel

Grammar police on patrol.

 

[Tim Cowan]

I added the the "g" for good, great Dodge truck engine. I also have a 1995 model Dodge diesel that the band wrench will work on without too much trouble. I won't mess up any more, I'll just say it is a Dodge Diesel.....

 

[Shadowdog500]

I never used the top one but I will say that the bottom one ***** so bad that I took it back after the first use.

What band wrench do you have? I really like the band wrench with the handle that can swivel up or down, which are the Red handle in middle, and black handle to left. They are both available at Sears.

The strap wrench is OK, and the sockets **** in most applications, but are the only thing I found to remove the filter in some applications like an Onan generator.

Chris

 

[bigsteve1969]

Grammar police on patrol.

haha its just one of those things i cant stand... really dont know why i mean it really gets to me when there like "my cummings puts down blah blah blah horsepower" and i just wanna slap them. kinda like those guys that buy there drag cars from someone and takes there word for whats been done to it.....yet they brag like they've shed blood to get it running.

 

[Tim Cowan]

Another oil change observation on the Dodge Cummins Diesel. On my 95 Ram 3500, Dually, the oil stays brown to light brown at change time, but the newer 2008 Ram HD 2500 oil is blacker than pitch just after changing. I use Shell Rotella Oil in both trucks. I wonder why the new engine has such black oil? Anyone know a reason for this?

 

[ron350]

Hello Critic what vehicle are you going to be using the filter wrench on.

I have used this filter wrench for years and it works well in tight places K-D 2029.
http://www.kd-tools.com/2029.htm

K-D has the 2380 for smaller oil filters.

 

[bigsteve1969]

Another oil change observation on the Dodge Cummins Diesel. On my 95 Ram 3500, Dually, the oil stays brown to light brown at change time, but the newer 2008 Ram HD 2500 oil is blacker than pitch just after changing. I use Shell Rotella Oil in both trucks. I wonder why the new engine has such black oil? Anyone know a reason for this?

oil picks up stuff.... you have a clean engine if its light brown. my 7.3 is the same way its only light brown at 5k miles. on the newer diesels with say common rail injection multiple fuel injection events occur causing more soot to build up. the oil "scrubs" this off. also the newer CJ-4 diesel oil is made to do this to keep emissions down. 95 has a 12 valve in it. Old school diesel im really surprised to hear you say its light brown, usually those have oil pitch black after 10 miles

 

[Tim Cowan]

While we are on the topic of oil changes; I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 3500 dually and a 2008 Ram 2500 HD, both diesels. The 95 model keeps a light brown oil until change time. The 2008 Ram with 15,000 miles keeps very black motor oil. It is black as printer's ink soon after changing. I use Shell Rotella oil in both trucks. Anyone know the reason for such black oil on the newer truck engine?

 

[Shadowdog500]

While we are on the topic of oil changes; I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 3500 dually and a 2008 Ram 2500 HD, both diesels. The 95 model keeps a light brown oil until change time. The 2008 Ram with 15,000 miles keeps very black motor oil. It is black as printer's ink soon after changing. I use Shell Rotella oil in both trucks. Anyone know the reason for such black oil on the newer truck engine?

I'm wondering why your 95 isn't making the oil black. I've owned several diesels, and the oil is usually blacker than black by the oil change.

Chris

 

[mikevango]

haha its just one of those things i cant stand... really dont know why i mean it really gets to me when there like "my cummings puts down blah blah blah horsepower" and i just wanna slap them. kinda like those guys that buy there drag cars from someone and takes there word for whats been done to it.....yet they brag like they've shed blood to get it running.

Irony right here boy!!!! You talking about spelling cummins wrong and you spell their "there". Haha


Oh yea, think I'm going to get the channelock oil filter pliers.

 

[J.P.]

We have just about every one of the above filters on our farm, and they all have their benefits and drawbacks.

Channellock Plier type: Those are nice but can really chew up a filter. I know an old filter is garbage but I've found myself wondering a time or two if I was going to get the filter off having it in such a twisted mess. No slippage once you have hold though.

Claw type: depending on the fit, can work really well or just slip around the end of the filter.

Cup type: easy go get on the filter, can be a pain in the *** to get off though.

Cloth strap type: too much slippage for my taste.

KD metal handle strap type: These are probably the best and most versatile IMO. You can get a set of these pretty reasonable and they grab the filter nicely. For our really big hydraulic filters and such, the 1/2" drive KD Ron350 shows above work pretty well.

 

[r0meyrome]

im a lube tech for nissan and the first one saved me more than a handfull of times on older nissan models. especially on the 4 cylinder frontiers of the past...

 

[Red Green]

I have the first one pictured and it seems to work very good.

 

[The Critic]

Thanks guys.

I'll be using it on a Nissan VQ35DE and an older Saturn (same filter as a Toyota V6).

I intend to pick-up a few different types of wrenches so that I can be prepared in the event that I need to service another person's car.

Therefore, I think I'll go with the wrench in the first picture, as well as a pliers type wrench as well? Is the general consensus that if I purchase the first wrench, there is no need to buy a box of size-specific cap wrenches?

 

[camaross]

I give this HF tool a Pass. It is far more superior than the Craftsman one. The smart design enables it to provide maximum grip no matter how big the diameter of the oil filter is. Plus, this tool does not feel cheap like other HF tools. Try one to believe.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99629

Thanks guys.

I'll be using it on a Nissan VQ35DE and an older Saturn (same filter as a Toyota V6).

I intend to pick-up a few different types of wrenches so that I can be prepared in the event that I need to service another person's car.

Therefore, I think I'll go with the wrench in the first picture, as well as a pliers type wrench as well? Is the general consensus that if I purchase the first wrench, there is no need to buy a box of size-specific cap wrenches?

 

[Shadowdog500]

Is the general consensus that if I purchase the first wrench, there is no need to buy a box of size-specific cap wrenches?

I only use the cap wrenches on applications that I cant use anything else, like an Onan generator. They would probably be the last ones I would get, but that is just me.

Chris

 

[nate379]

I have a C Man version of that. Same exact thing other than it was $10 cheaper.

I used to be a grease monkey as a 2nd job and that is what I used. Worked on 99.9% of the cars I did.

I like my blue point filter pliers.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1535&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[pmohr]

I give this HF tool a Pass. It is far more superior than the Craftsman one. The smart design enables it to provide maximum grip no matter how big the diameter of the oil filter is. Plus, this tool does not feel cheap like other HF tools. Try one to believe.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99629

I've tried that one, had it as a backup to my 'real' one. Broke on the first use, rivets holding the two plates together just snapped apart.

Personally I've had nothing but good experiences with the second one listed in the first post, it works great for everything from the massive filters on some diesels to the tiny filters on the VQ/VG/KA/SR/etc engines. Every single person in the shop has one and it's the 'go-to' tool for oil changes. $13 at Sears, $24 from the SO truck.

In the few occasions it can't reach the filter, some oil filter pliers will do the job.

 

[toolfreak]

If you are changing oil on automotive, get the cup style that is specific for that vehicle. As far as oil filter pliers, I hate them. THey don't work that well and if you pull a filter off in the field without having the exact same filter then you're screwed. I say that because the company I work for gets different brands of filters and even though they are suppose to cross, sometimes they don't. If you put a hole in the filter with the channellocks then the machine is completely down and you are in deep sh*t.

 

[mikevango]

I've tried that one, had it as a backup to my 'real' one. Broke on the first use, rivets holding the two plates together just snapped apart.

Personally I've had nothing but good experiences with the second one listed in the first post, it works great for everything from the massive filters on some diesels to the tiny filters on the VQ/VG/KA/SR/etc engines. Every single person in the shop has one and it's the 'go-to' tool for oil changes. $13 at Sears, $24 from the SO truck.

In the few occasions it can't reach the filter, some oil filter pliers will do the job.

just checked out your links. the blue point is more $ and is china. the craftsman is usa!!! might have to get one. i have been using the cup style that always gets stuck on the filter.

 

[j-easy]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94119

I use these and they work really well.

 

[M900]

Irony right here boy!!!! You talking about spelling cummins wrong and you spell their "there". Haha


Oh yea, think I'm going to get the channelock oil filter pliers.

He also typed "there" instead of "they're"...
He also didnt capitalize a few things, etc.
You cant even call him out correctly!




I change my own oil so the filter isnt cranked on too tight. I use a strap wrench or one of the second picture. They both work great.


My version of the second picture has plasti-dip on the teeth (I suppose is what theyre called.) for better traction. I made sure to not buy one that felt wobbly, loose or just crappy.

 

[nw2571]

While we are on the topic of oil changes; I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 3500 dually and a 2008 Ram 2500 HD, both diesels. The 95 model keeps a light brown oil until change time. The 2008 Ram with 15,000 miles keeps very black motor oil. It is black as printer's ink soon after changing. I use Shell Rotella oil in both trucks. Anyone know the reason for such black oil on the newer truck engine?

The black is likely from soot (combustion by-products) in the oil. Starting in 2007 the diesels have to regenerate their diesel particulate filters (DPF) using additional injection events. The by-products of spraying fuel on cylinder walls instead of in the piston bowl is soot loading of the oil, and also fuel dilluting the oil. Newer oil, CI-4 for instance, have additional detergents and hold the soot in suspension. As long as you aren't going over the recommended change intervals you'll be ok.

Back on topic... I have one of the second wrenches the OP talked about and can't stand it. I prefer the metal band wrenches or the cap type.