Oil Seal installion
- Thread starter R W
- Start date
bob15
Well-known member
Jim Diesel
Well-known member
Kits, sockets, old seals, or if simply a hub seal that needs to be flush, starting it by hand then with a soft face just tapping it in till flush.
Lots of different ways for lots of different types. For example some i will grease up for instalation, and some will require BlueMax cause the housings are ****.
Lots of different ways for lots of different types. For example some i will grease up for instalation, and some will require BlueMax cause the housings are ****.
Finky198
Well-known member
My usually pick the proper sized brass hammer, and if needed the the proper size bearing press adapter...
As said above.
lube and cleanliness and keeping it straight are the keys to successful installation. On axle seals I personally like using a little black RTV instead of grease as lube. In most case it offer a little extra protection against leak and it eases installation about the same. I have recently seen some seals come pre coated with sealer. I use a drop of oil that’s being used and works perfect in that case to get it started...
Just take your time.
As said above.
lube and cleanliness and keeping it straight are the keys to successful installation. On axle seals I personally like using a little black RTV instead of grease as lube. In most case it offer a little extra protection against leak and it eases installation about the same. I have recently seen some seals come pre coated with sealer. I use a drop of oil that’s being used and works perfect in that case to get it started...
Just take your time.
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Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,..... Carefully,..... with whatever it takes,....
matt_i
Well-known member
I usually machine a pilot from some scrap, just like the mega $ kit pictured above but instead the money is sunk into the lathe and not the tool set. If the part is small enough, I use the arbor press. Otherwise the pilot is going to need a shaft to carefully tap with a hammer.
dalehsc
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Years ago I started saving bearing races, between them & a supply of sockets, I get a great supply of seal drivers. A hammer & I'm good to go.
bwringer
Well-known member
Harbor Freight has a couple of VERY nice seal/bearing install kits with an assortment of aluminum disks. (The aluminum won't damage steel bearing races.) I have the one with the different colors of anodizing, and it's been extremely useful for banging in bearings and seals many times, and I've also used it with my hydraulic press several times.
That said, sometimes the situation calls for different means, especially when there's a shaft in the middle. When installing a crankshaft oil seal on one of my motorcycles, I used a large socket, a long bolt threaded into the crankshaft, and some nuts and washers to push the seal into place. Worked great. You can do the same with many car cranks, camshafts, etc.
I once had to install a large seal into the rear end of a shaft drive motorcycle. A visit to the bLowe's plumbing department with the seal in hand yielded a PVC adapter that fit perfectly, and the seal went right in with a block of wood and a rubber hammer.
Improvise and adapt...
That said, sometimes the situation calls for different means, especially when there's a shaft in the middle. When installing a crankshaft oil seal on one of my motorcycles, I used a large socket, a long bolt threaded into the crankshaft, and some nuts and washers to push the seal into place. Worked great. You can do the same with many car cranks, camshafts, etc.
I once had to install a large seal into the rear end of a shaft drive motorcycle. A visit to the bLowe's plumbing department with the seal in hand yielded a PVC adapter that fit perfectly, and the seal went right in with a block of wood and a rubber hammer.
Improvise and adapt...
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rlitman
Well-known member
I'm in the "whatever it takes" crowd. I can think of two important details.
1) Don't install them dry.
2) If its tight on the OD, try putting it in the freezer first.
1) Don't install them dry.
2) If its tight on the OD, try putting it in the freezer first.
Mick56
Well-known member
I always pack the inside of the seal with grease around the spring. That will keep the spring from popping out while tapping the seal in.
HAP
Well-known member
Good technique. However the likelihood of the spring jumping out increases when you use the seal installer tool. The sudden flat shock will make the spring react and you will never know it happened, especially because "you know you did it right"; followed by leaks.
Wood blocks never fail...
R,
HAP
Wood blocks never fail...
R,
HAP
Quite a bit less expensive than the OTC kit and works great:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/51Pc-Custom-Bushing-Bearing-Seal-Driver-Push-Press-Disc-Tool-Set-18-65mm-NEW-EX/183068308320?hash=item2a9fb8b360:g:WEYAAOSwdTJaatXY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/51Pc-Custom-Bushing-Bearing-Seal-Driver-Push-Press-Disc-Tool-Set-18-65mm-NEW-EX/183068308320?hash=item2a9fb8b360:g:WEYAAOSwdTJaatXY
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engineer2
Well-known member
For a flush seal, a block of wood and either a press or a rubber mallet. Make sure you start it straight. If it's recessed, then you have to be more creative. A socket or an old bearing will work 90% of the time. I have a drawer full of vintage Kent-Moore bushing, seal and bearing drivers. They cover the other 10%.
switchman
Member
grease around the spring is a good idea
bob15
Well-known member
The OTC does goes larger in sizes. And it can be gotten much cheaper than what I listed. i just posted what the kit looks like and a part/item number.
Not sure if I want to have the discs being powder coated, nor being held on with an O-ring like the unknown set. I like the bolt that holds the discs tight with the OTC better (no chance of it falling off).
But, to each your own
SonofnIrishman
Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2014
- Messages
- 10
MAC tools bearing/ seal driver kit for most common open bore, sockets or pipe fittings for installing around a shaft. Amazing how close you can get with a 3" male camlock fitting. Brass punch if it's set deep in the housing. I favor a rubber shot filled deadblow hammer over steel
Usually a block of wood here.
mbshop
Well-known member
on certain seals, one really needs to have a sleeve so that the seal lip is not cut or forced off. many seals do not require sealer of any kind. so it really depends on the
situation. I used all sorts of ways depending on the seal.
situation. I used all sorts of ways depending on the seal.
impactsocket
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2014
- Messages
- 769
What about the Maddox 10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set?
$39.99 + 20% OFF coupon at harbor freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-Piece-Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-63261.html
$39.99 + 20% OFF coupon at harbor freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-Piece-Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-63261.html
I have the unbranded hf version that is in the red case that are annodized different colors. I think they were 19.95 or so when I got them, but they are a pass. I've used them to beat the living snot out of a few things.
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Bad Eye Bill
Well-known member
I came in this thread to say grease on the inner spring. Glad to see I was beaten to it by others.
I use sockets, wooden dowels, abs pipe, whatever will work without destroying the seal.
I use sockets, wooden dowels, abs pipe, whatever will work without destroying the seal.
4x4gearhead
Well-known member
I have a range of bearing race and seal installer sets that i used. I also am one that hoards a bunch of bearing races and old parts for seals, and for pressing things. I have a heavy drawer in my toolbox at work of lots of old parts and pieces that i thought would be handy to have around. And they have been. Some people give me **** about keeping them but most have them have saved mys *** over the years.