Oiling Tools

[ChunkyLover53]

Hello everyone,

I don't live in a very humid climate, but I have noticed that a slight surface rust will appear on hammer heads, pliers, and even sockets after enough time.

I recently purchased a new set of impact sockets that I am going to try to maintain well (along with all my tools). I noticed that they arrived and were a little oily. Are we supposed to keep a light coat applied to our tools to help with rust prevention? If so what kind of oil is good to use? I sort of feel like WD-40 wouldn't be the best choice and would lean towards something more like 3 in 1 or another oil. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[BMoscato]

I use CLP on tools that are vulnerable to corrosion and WD40 and Scotchbrite or a wire brush to clean light surface areas.

 

[JeepYJ]

For tools I’m not going to be using again for awhile I will wipe down with a rag with some motor oil on it. Seems to work well enough and keeps them looking nice.

 

[Kscardsfan]

Get a can of CLP from your local gun shop, sporting goods store, etc and keep it and a red shop rag around and wipe your tools down with it from time to time.

 

[sweet victory]

I have been using CorrosionX CLP for firearms the last few years. I live close to the ocean and non of my snap on pliers or impact sockets show any sign of corrosion. I use it very sparingly and apply with a coffee filter.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

What is "CLP"?

 

[sweet victory]

What is "CLP"?

Acronym that stands for Clean, Lubricate, and Preserve. So you can use CorrosionX CLP to clean, lubricate, and preserve your firearms/tools.


For actual firearm applications, I prefer dedicated cleaners and lubricants/preservatives over an all in one type product.

 

[Kscardsfan]

Acronym that stands for Clean, Lubricate, and Preserve. So you can use CorrosionX CLP to clean, lubricate, and preserve your firearms/tools.


For actual firearm applications, I prefer dedicated cleaners and lubricants/preservatives over an all in one type product.

depends what gun and what part of the season. The middle of duck season, it gets hosed down with CLP to keep things going. End of the year, detail stripped and cleaned to be stored for a while. Wood stocks get oiled with tung or another appropriate finishing oil. Although I’m looking hard at using Renaissance Wax on some of my older stuff moving forward.

 

[Tools4Me]

I use my finger to wipe a light coating of wheel bearing grease on any tools that are going to be sitting unused for a while. Then I gently wipe off any visible grease with a shop rag. Over time that shop rag becomes damp feeling with the excess grease it has accumulated. I use that greasy rag to wipe down any bare metal tools that are used more regularly.

I find, once a tool has a thin layer of grease worked into the surface of the metal it's usually okay for a year or more as long as I wear gloves whenever I use the tool. I usually wear $1 a pair polyurethane dipped nylon gloves when working in my shop. If I don't wear gloves, I usually need to give the bare steel tools I use a quick wipe down with my greasy rag after each use before putting them away. If I don't, I will often end up with a light dusting of rust wherever my hands touched the tool.

If I do find a tool has some surface rust after a time, I polish it up real quickly with a 6" fine bristled wire wheel turning at about 600rpm. It quickly removes the surface rust without polishing the metal surface.

After the original bare metal ages a bit and darkens it won't rust on you nearly as easily, so you can be a lot more relaxed with the rust prevention techniques.

For any tools like thread taps or thread dies (that aren't already coated with an oil based thread cutting oil), I use a small pump oiler to squirt some 30W oil onto a toothbrush. I then use the oiled toothbrush to quickly coat the tap or die with oil before putting it away. People that do more machining or have larger shops that use water based cooling lubricant probably care for their machining tools a different way. Sometimes if I'm feeling more lazy, I will lay a bunch of tools out on a piece of cardboard, hit them all with spray lithium grease, and then wipe of the excess before putting them away.

For any tools that are going to be primarily used on or around bare wood, I wipe them down periodically with Johnson's paste wax so the bare wood I'm working with doesn't become contaminated with grease prior to a finish being applied. It's usually the better solution for things like hammers, steel framing squares, table saw tops, wood saw blades, etc.

 

[demarpaint]

For tools I’m not going to be using again for awhile I will wipe down with a rag with some motor oil on it. Seems to work well enough and keeps them looking nice.

That works for me too. I collect in a small container left over oil from the bottom of fresh oil jugs when I do an oil change, and fill an oiler with it. I give my tools a wipe down with clean oil when I'm done using the tools. No tool rust problems here on the south shore of Long Island.