Ok Armstrong guys, Whatziss thing??

[Lump]

In one of those recent garage sale or flea market finds I posted a week or two ago, the seller was making very attractive prices...getting better and better (per each tool's net cost) as I made the package bigger and bigger. So I threw in several additional interesting pieces, which had not been my original target buys.

One item I did not even recognize, but I bought it anyway because it appears to have an Armstrong logo and number on the side, and the cost had now dropped to well below a $1 per item. At that price, I figured it was worth buying just to find out what it was.
See photo below:

I'm pretty sure this is just one component of some other tool. I have imagined that it must be part of something like a tire-changing tool, or etc. That split pin is pretty sturdy looking, and it seems that this tool has been worked pretty hard. Note its wedge shape...rounded on the top edge, and flat on bottom edge.

Here is a closer picture of the logo and the number. I am not positive whether that number is "N94" or "1194" or maybe even "H94". It's been through a pretty rough life, I think.

Here is a view from the "top" edge (I say "top edge" because I am ASSUMING that the part number and logo would have been put there "right-reading").

 

[wreckercologist]

Morse taper drift.

 

[atari]

Im guessing the murder weapon?

 

[hofferwood]

Morse taper drift.

Spot on!!!
And the roll pin, to stop it from falling thru the grating the (probly drill press) was sittin' on.
Chuck

 

[e3pres]

Morse taper drift.

 

[Lump]

Okay, so I'm dumber than I thought.

I understand what a "drift pin" is, so I assume that this was used like a drift pin, struck by a hammer, and the taper must have been used to wedge something up, or over, or whatever. But I must admit that I don't know how it would be used on a drill press...or around grating?

Sorry guys. This one appears to be out of my circle of understanding...and my circle is pretty small anyway...

 

[slip knot]

used for removing morse tapered drills from drill press or lathes.

 

[porschedude996TT]

Maybe a little better explaination: There is a slot in the arobr that allows the drift into the center of the arbor to make contact with the item being removed on the end of the morse taper. Could be a mill cutter, or a three jaw chuck like the one on end of your drill motor. A couple of taps and the morse taper item pops out of the arbor drive.

 

[hofferwood]

Okay, so I'm dumber than I thought.

I understand what a "drift pin" is, so I assume that this was used like a drift pin, struck by a hammer, and the taper must have been used to wedge something up, or over, or whatever. But I must admit that I don't know how it would be used on a drill press...or around grating?

Sorry guys. This one appears to be out of my circle of understanding...and my circle is pretty small anyway...

Not dumb
Dumb is unwilling to learn!

On the larger drill presses, when you pull down say to drill.
Look on the side, there will be an oblong hole, turn the chuck and another one inside will line up. The top of the morse taper bit,chuck, reamer or whatever will be seen. The drift goes in there to knock out the tool. It will DROP so catch, or raise the table.
Now that I think about it the roll pin might be for stopping a Blast thru( some folks don't know how to TAP). Like BAMM BAMM Rubble

Hope this helps
Chuck

 

[Lump]

Great, guys. NOW I get it!
This tool must be for tools much bigger than my little Craftsman bench-top drill press.

I've never worked with Bridgeports, lathes, or big drill presses, so this is just beyone my scope.

Thanks. I feel much better now.

 

[RbrtAWhyt]

Looks like a prison shank...

 

[wreckercologist]

Here's a few visual aids.

First pic shows the machine I use at work. It's called a frame drill and is the best thing since ice cold beer......

Second pic shows the drift fitted in the socket, but not yet driven through to extract the cutting tool.

Third pic is pretty much explains itself.

Forth pic shows the shank of the cutting tool. The inside of the socket on the machine is an exact copy of this taper. When a cutting tool is inserted into the socket, you usually tap it with something to seat it (I use a ball peen hammer) which makes it a press fit (interference fit). The harder you drive the tool into the socket, the tighter it is held. The ejection tang on the end of the cutting tool is just that and only that.....for ejecting the tool from the socket. The drift is forced against this tang and the tool pops out. Despite what some would think, the tang does not "drive" the cutting tool, friction does that (press fit, remember?) I've used tools with the tang broken off with excellent results, though they are a real pain to get out of the socket.

AFAIK, these are available in sizes 1 through 6. There may be bigger available, but I have not personally seen any. The one pictured here is a #2.

And before one of you guys jumps on me, I only use the ball peen hammer on HSS twist drills, not on any other kind of cutting tool or carbide. That would require a block of wood.

There's your useless Morse taper fact for the day.

 

[Lump]

Here's a few visual aids.

First pic shows the machine I use at work. It's called a frame drill and is the best thing since ice cold beer......

Second pic shows the drift fitted in the socket, but not yet driven through to extract the cutting tool.

Third pic is pretty much explains itself.

Forth pic shows the shank of the cutting tool. The inside of the socket on the machine is an exact copy of this taper. When a cutting tool is inserted into the socket, you usually tap it with something to seat it (I use a pall peen hammer) which makes it a press fit (interference fit). The harder you drive the tool into the socket, the tighter it is held. The ejection tang on the end of the cutting tool is just that and only that.....for ejecting the tool from the socket. The drift is forced against this tang and the tool pops out. Despite what some would think, the tang does not "drive" the cutting tool, friction does that (press fit, remember?) I've used tools with the tang broken off with exellent results, though they are a real pain to get out of the socket.

AFAIK, these are available in sizes 1 through 6. There may be bigger available, but I have not personally seen any. The one pictured here is a #2.

And before one of you guys jumps on me, I only use the ball peen hammer on HSS twist drills, not on any other kind of cutting tool or carbide. That would require a block of wood.

There's your useless Morse taper fact for the day.

Wow, I cannot thank you enough, Wreckercologist! I have never been exposed to this type of equipment, or any type of "taper fit" cutting tools (If it ain't a Jacobs-style or keyless chuck, I've never used it.) Moreover, after someone explained earlier about the "morse taper" chucks...I was wondering why they used a taper fit. But NOW I get it. Thanks to you, I'm a little less ignorant today than I was yesterday. Thanks!