OK first post and its been asked before.

[whipperr]

I have a 26x26 garage all free spanning. I looked at some threads on how to hoist stuff to the sealing for storage. This is my plan. I have a 20ft 950lb race boat with engine off. I want to store it up off the trailer with two slings and park the car under it for the winter. The problem is the roof is finished. I was seeing some guys spanned 5 or 6 Joyce's but i don't think this will be enough? The garage has engineered trusses and is 10 years old. I was thinking if i can span the whole 26ft with steel tubbing that might be enough. Add a couple of winches one to each span cut a whole for the cable and attach to the slings around the boat front and back then hoist her up out of the way. Does this sound reasonable? I don't want to add down coloms in the garage as its nice having it open. I saw a nifty idea Ill post a pic its small though. I dont no what kind of wieght this would hold at two places but looked good. He mounted a winch right to the top of the roof cap at the top of the truss with a bracket between the truss. If I spaned this 15ft apart would that hold? The wieght would be distabuted over 15ft for the 950lb bar hull. I have acces to the adict thats empty. This is why I want to park inside to! James

 

[whipperr]

Hear the boat I want to take the motor off put it on a stand and hoist the hull off the trailer. Illjust park the trailer out back.

 

[nehog]

First you need an engineer to determine whether the roof structure can hold that load, while holding a typical snow load. I think it snows where you are!

Ever considered a four post lift?

 

[1320stang]

I think you'd be better off building a shop out back. It'll cost you almost as much (or more) to engineer what you're wanting to do.

Don't they have U-stor facilities in Canada?

 

[whipperr]

First you need an engineer to determine whether the roof structure can hold that load, while holding a typical snow load. I think it snows where you are!

Ever considered a four post lift?

Yes I have considered a 4 post lift. I just dont want to have the beems in the center of the garage. I see guys lifting moose and motors up all weigh more than my hull. A moose is over 1000lbs as is a fully dressed V8. Well V8 880 to 950. My hull with the motor off is only 950 also. So if i spanned the garage with two 26ft 6x6 or 4 inch steel one piece outside wall to house wall I thought that might be over kill? I also thought if I went diagnaly from the corner and built a steel box frame up there it would distribute the weight. My dad said i could just span 15ft over the joyses in two spots and that would hold thousands of pound being 2x6 constructed? I thought this would be simple untill i started reading some other posts about people tinking even haning 500lbs was a lot!

 

[whipperr]

I think you'd be better off building a shop out back. It'll cost you almost as much (or more) to engineer what you're wanting to do.

Don't they have U-stor facilities in Canada?

I have a shop out back but not big enough. Its -30 to -40 all winter. They want 200min a month to store a boat with out heat. I would have to heat it also. The boat is very expensive over 50 grand made with kevlar over 100mph. I dont want to cause any structural damage freezing the hull. I have a 22ft radiant heater in the garage and maintain 70deg all winter in there. Its a buitifull garage all finished inside every inch. The roof is even spackeled. Nothing against enaneers i work with them every day. Mechanical. I can do this myself. For cheep!! I just was wondering what the best way to do this was. I can see needing an enganeers aproval for under 1000lbs? The roof in the garage must weigh more than 4000lbs. I may have to have one post maybe. If I run off the corner of the garage thats like 3 post and have one post out 10ft from the wall 15ft from the back of the garage that way I could lift a car in there. So maybe thats the best bet. That way it has nothing to do with trusses. Just two bearing walls and a 10x10. Run two 6x6,s across the floor to the 10x10. A third 6x6 in the middel hook up two winches and lift.

 

[drmoonshine]

I like the idea someone mention of using a four post lift. That way it's nothing structural and you don't need build or rent something else.

 

[rustedgoat]

In my garage the previous owner built two gantry frames out 2" black pipe and bolted them to the ceiling joists. The weight was on the floor, the ceiling just stabilized it. Nothing more than straight pipe and some 90 deg fittings. He used it to pull engines and lift car bodies. Maybe 2 a-frames made out of steel will give you the clearance under the boat once its up to park.

 

[Photo]

whipper,

It would be a little easier to advise you if we could also have some pics of the inside of your garage.

Also, what is the interior height to your ceiling?

You may be able to add a couple of 2x6's on the flat lagged (not screwed) into the 2 or 3 joists below the ceiling and mount your winches or whatever you wish to use to these plates. This way, you can finish the 2x6's nicely to match the rest of your garage (paint white to blend in, or dark to contrast).

You may want 3 lifting points (2 on the transom and 1 on the bow) where you can attach to the boat to lift it up. If you can split up the load like this, you may only have ~ 300 lbs at each point. (hopefully not kg as we're both in Canada).

Are you ABSOLUTELY SURE the boat only weighs 900 lbs? Have you actually weight it? You may want to unload everything until it is the way you wish to store it, then go out and have it weighed.

Another question comes to mind: will your boat fit over or under the door when the door opens? Is there a door opener in the way?

I believe you should be able to store this boat out of the weather depending upon all the correct answers to the above questions.

Lane

 

[whipperr]

Photo yes I mesured the bow area thats much shallower than the stern and the doors will open above it. The highest point is the wind deflector. The garage is 12ft high and with the car under there will be 3ft from the keel to the roof of the 300SRT8. I know lots of guys that drag these hulls and am sure about the weight. Call it 1000 if I dont take out the life jackets and stuff. The race weight is 1450 I took it over a scale with the trailer once and knowing the trailer weight it all worked out.

I guess i could just make a 4 poster out of steel tubing on wheels. In the summer months wheel it out into the back 40. Make the post in two sections pined to collaps to get it out of there. Ill try and get some pics.

 

[Photo]

whispperr,

If your boat is so light, why is it on a tandem trailer? They look to be 3500 lb axles to me for a trailer weight rating of 7000 lbs. That's a pretty light load for that trailer.

How close to the back wall do you want to store the boat? Will the transom be right up against the wall? If so, you should be able to transfer the bulk of the weight to the wall instead of the ceiling. Can you bolt plates to the wall in this case and use them to pick up the transom? If this is possible, you may be able to hang only the bow from the ceiling (which should be much lighter than the stern).

Do your trusses run from side to side in your garage, or from front to back (over doors to the back wall)? This will also make a difference. If they run front to back, you will be carrying the weight near the ends of the trusses/joists which will be much easier on them.

Let us know what you decide.

Lane

 

[Photo]

Okay, after going to the Allison Boat website, I guess I'll have to believe you!

SS-2000 Weight: 750 - 800 lbs.

XS-2003 Weight: 940 - 980 lbs.

That thing must FLY when you put the hammer down!

Lane

 

[whipperr]

Okay, after going to the Allison Boat website, I guess I'll have to believe you!

SS-2000 Weight: 750 - 800 lbs.

XS-2003 Weight: 940 - 980 lbs.

That thing must FLY when you put the hammer down!

Lane

104MPH. I was just about to post the web site for you. Then i saw your post. Anyway I was just talking to my dad who is a pretty smart cookie. We really like that idea of useing the back wall. The only problem that we figured we have an answer for is the radeant heater sticks out about a 11/2 feet from the wall. I already planed on a deflector plate for the back of the hull to redirect the heat. So that leaves the span. I figured if i put a 1/2 inch sheet of plywood right up to the framed wall ontop of the joyses and ran a 10ft 8x8 nailed to the plywood 3ft from the wall then the stern wieght is taken car of? 3ft from the wall straight up pull should be OK just for the stern wieght ya think? Then for the bow run a 3inch black pipe up threw the garage roof to flush with the Foyses there. The joyses run lengthways front to back. I can weld a large ring ontop of the standing pipe to run another 3inch pipe over to the side wall of the garage resting ontop of the wall. For lateral suport I can just screw pipe braces over the pipe into joyces all along. The span for the bow would be about 12ft but the suport would be the wall and the upright. Ill then run two winches one for each end. The bow on a sling and stern with pullies to run two lines one to each stern eye that Darris the owner of Allison boats said would hole just fine. Once up Ill have chane to hooks to take the load off the winches.

How that sound?