Old 1/3 Hp Dunlap electric motor

[killahog]

I am almost finished with refurbishing a 12" 1940 Walker Turner Band saw the issue I have now is the Motor, it worked briefly when I first tried it but since then I removed it and when I plugged it in on the bench it spin up and started smoking. I know nothing about the inner workings of electric motors and I would like to reuse this one as the old saw is 100% American made and I really dont want to put a Harbor freight motor on it. So what are my options

 

[Aceman]

Drop it off at an electric motor shop and have them take a look at it.

 

[TractorJeff]

That looks like the old SEARs motors that were popular in the late 50's/early 60's. There is a START Capacitor in the base. Blow the cobwebs out of the motor, plug it in to see if you can spin the shaft to get it to run. If it don't, then off to the motor shop! If you still have one locally?

 

[billarch1960]

If you plugged it in and it started smoking, you may have burned out the start windings that are much smaller wires in a split phase motor. You would have to check the continuity between the two start winding conductors. The yellow ones that you reverse to change rotation. You might be better getting anew motor. I have spent about 8 hours rebuilding one because parts are almost impossible to get.

 

[oddjobbob]

Hey killahog, did you get that Dunlap motor to work? I have just about the identical motor but branded as Sears, and 1/2 hp.

Would like to know how it turned out.

Thanks for any reply.
Sincerely,
ojb

 

[exmaxima1]

That looks like the old SEARs motors that were popular in the late 50's/early 60's. There is a START Capacitor in the base. Blow the cobwebs out of the motor, plug it in to see if you can spin the shaft to get it to run. If it don't, then off to the motor shop! If you still have one locally?

Not in that model. It's a Split-Phase motor, not Capacitor Start

 

[TractorJeff]

Not in that model. It's a Split-Phase motor, not Capacitor Start

YEP! Your right!
I only looked at the physical view!
Didn't read the nameplate closely.
My Bad!

 

[yeldogt]

Those old Dunlap motors do have BB -- strange bearing. You have to make sure you use the correct lube. My grandfather ran everything in his shop off those things ... if they sit the BB stick and the shaft will not turn ... have to spin them first. Not a huge amount of starting force in the motor ....

After he died I got all his old tools -- none were worth really using ... except a small drill press that I liked for small work. I could not bring myself to toss them out -- at various times I ran across other tools with those motors .. all of them were stiff or stuck. Always figured my grandfather used the wrong grease ..nope.. just they way they are. Modern moly stuff does solve the problem

 

[FrankLee]

A two year old thread, but I just finished a refurb on this Dec '49 Dunlap 115.7269 a few minutes ago. This is the same model as the OP's motor. The original paint isn't perfect, but the original bearings cleaned up nicely! This will be reinstalled on a Craftsman 100 drill press when that's done.

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[pancho400cid]

Looks great! Neat old motor.

 

[yeldogt]

Think it's big enough for the 100 ?


Can't remember if any of mine are the duel shaft ... ?? My memory was you flipped the base -- so the switch was correct to the way you wanted to use.

All of mine are the 1/3 hp ....

 

[FrankLee]

Think it's big enough for the 100 ?


Can't remember if any of mine are the duel shaft ... ?? My memory was you flipped the base -- so the switch was correct to the way you wanted to use.

All of mine are the 1/3 hp ....

Yes, I think 1/3 hp is plenty on these machines.

Yes, I did flip the base so the switch is on the right when the motor is mounted. Another benefit is that ON is up and OFF is down. That seems more appropriate.