Old Compressor Information

[Gr8whthunter76]

Just wondering if anyone can help in identifying this compressor. It's a classic farmer fix up I know, homemade tank, motor mount and compressor mount. Dang solid though surprisingly. I took the pressure switch off for now and it is just hotwired while I wait on my new switch. Was actually able to find a NOS switch that matched the old one perfectly so that was cool. The old pressure switch said 1938. Now I know that is just the year on the switch and doesn't correlate to the compressor, but just judging from the motor size and only 1hp and the build of the compressor, has to be an early compressor. It runs very well after I did a lot of cleaning, brushes, commutator, new cord, made a air filter for it and such. Builds 60 PSI, but I had to change my undies afterwards as, well just wasn't sure what the tank would do and I am dumb enough not to do a water test. Figure when it is my time it is my time so up to 60 psi we went. Here was the issue though, it wouldn't restart after it hit 60 PSI. Now I know it is supposed to have a unloader on it, but that wasn't on the pressure switch and I can't for the life of me find where the unloader is at on it. The compressor has absolutely no markings on it at all. I have search high and low. Just kind of wondering where the unloader should be or if I can just put one in somehow on that pipe from the compressor to the tank, would also need a check valve then though. Thanks Much and I can't wait to explore this site more!!!!!

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

Looks Curtiss, possibly Brunner.


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[MacMcMacmac]

This is a Quincy. Looks like an A3. The date on the switch is probably indicative of the age of the entire unit.

Is that not an inline poppet style check valve in the discharge line?

 

[Gr8whthunter76]

Is that what the coupler looking thing is at the top of the pipe? I know the one is just a union, but couldn't figure out what that top piece is. Would still need an unloader though wouldn't it?

 

[Gr8whthunter76]

I'm guessing whatever the heck those two things are on top of the cylinder must have something to do with being unloaders if that truly is a poppet valve. They didn't look like they came out though or anyway to clean. I don't wanna take the head off cause I am sure knowing my luck I'll wreck the gasket, then have to make a new one etc etc. Can of worms. Going to have to do some wrenching after and see if they come out or not.

 

[Rangie]

I'm guessing whatever the heck those two things are on top of the cylinder must have something to do with being unloaders

Those are the valves. Unloaders have pressure feeds to lift the inlet valve so that it doesnt pump.

Alec.

 

[Gr8whthunter76]

Well dang it, this thing is going to be more trouble then it's worth I think. They must have just never ran it over a certain amount of pressure so that it could start each time cause there is no unloader on it at all. I suppose I could figure something out to help unload some of the pressure, just hate to dump a **** ton of money into it. I did see NAPA has a unloader check valve so maybe that is the answer. Like a dumb dumb last night I bought a cold weather relief needle valve thinking that was the answer..........not thinking that it stays open until 25 PSI then closes. Well that is fine, but it won't reopen then until you hit less than 25 PSI between compressor and tank so that is absolutely worthless waste of money.

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

You may be mistaken about needing an unloader. The check valve in the outlet pipe is supposed to keep the pressure in the tank from coming back to the pump. Something that old was for putting air in tires on bicycles and such. It was never intended to make more than maybe thirty pounds pressure, so as long as the check valve in the outlet pipe is working, that big bad (wonderful) electric motor will easily overcome the resistance of the pump, and off you go. Having said that, if the very old check valve doesn’t work anymore you can install a modern valve in the tank where the line goes in. Also there’s this thing I found for sale, don’t know how or if it works. Please don’t give up, and keep us posted.


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[Stillgottimefor1]

The big electric motor there is called a Phase Induction motor, has a mechanically operated switch internal to the motor. It starts on primary (very powerful) start winding and then procedes to the run winding. Look that up so you know how they work and then clean and free-up and lubricate the transfer mechanism shown in the last photo . That big motor should easily start and run that little pump.
Cleaning/sanding the contact in the area of the rear area of the motor at the contact switches maybe will fix it. The small rods running front-to-rear must move freely so the centrifugal switch will work correctly.

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[Gr8whthunter76]

The big electric motor there is called a Phase Induction motor, has a mechanically operated switch internal to the motor. It starts on primary (very powerful) start winding and then procedes to the run winding. Look that up so you know how they work and then clean and free-up and lubricate the transfer mechanism shown in the last photo . That big motor should easily start and run that little pump.
Cleaning/sanding the contact in the area of the rear area of the motor at the contact switches maybe will fix it. The small rods running front-to-rear must move freely so the centrifugal switch will work correctly.

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That makes sense! I cleaned that mechanism and the first time it tripped over I about jumped out my skin, so that is working good. That fixed the tremendous sparking issue at first. The low pressure part sounds feasible too. I'll keep plugging away at it. Cant give up I'm invested in it now lol. Thanks for the info I'll keep this updated as I progress!