Old Copper Tee Question

[geotek]

I replaced an old leaking shutoff valve for the hose bib last night. I had wanted to leave the section of pipe between the Tee from the main supply to the valve in place but ended up with a pin hole leak in the pipe and had to unsweat the new valve and remove the old piece of pipe from the valve.

Here is my concern: The tee off the main line is probably as old as the house (70yrs). The tee has holes in the bottom so that you can see that the pipe has been pushed far enough into the tee. Should the hole be soldered closed? It is on the underside of the pipe making that much more difficult. It seems to me that the is a way from water now to get past the shoulder in the fitting, between the pipe and to the hole causing a leak. So far everyting is watertight, but with the age of the pipe i'm a bit nervious. The previous owners really made a mess of the piping so if I dont have to mess with it further I'd be happy.

 

[geotek]

I finally got some photos of the tee. Any suggestions? So far so good, its been sealed for 2 weeks. Probably it'll be ok, but still dont know if theres something more I should do?

 

[Hawk]

With all that corrosion I would remove/replace that tee.

 

[csp]

What's less work, soldering a new tee or cleaning up the flood if it does pop and nobody is there to know about before damage takes place?

 

[Ron Lombardo]

The tee is an old FLAGFLO tee ... the hole was where you were supposed to apply the solder ... that was the theory ... I guess they didnt believe in capillary action 70 years ago ...the tee will be fine if you fill the hole with solder. There was also a version of this tee that came with a small ring of solder in the joint and all you had to do is flux and heat it. If the holes bother you...either fill them with solder or replace the tee.

Ron

 

[geotek]

Ron, Thanks for the info. Thats what I needed to know.

I'll probably look into replacing the tee, but dont have the time right now. I'll have to drain down the system again. and there are no drain points lower in the line so i'll be fighting the water sucking up the heat from the tourch.

 

[JakeKohl]

Ron, Thanks for the info. Thats what I needed to know.

I'll probably look into replacing the tee, but dont have the time right now. I'll have to drain down the system again. and there are no drain points lower in the line so i'll be fighting the water sucking up the heat from the tourch.

Cut the lines, cram some bread in the lines to block the water dribble, solder your stuff together, remove the screen/aerator from a sink faucet (or use an outside hose spigot if you have one downstream = ideal). Turn the water on and watch the bread pop out.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Bread is the old trick and it works, they also sell what looks like a large pill that is made to do the same thing, it disolves once the water is turned back on.

 

[rlitman]

Actually the large "pill" is broken down by heat. You push it in about 6-10" away from the solder joint. Do your soldering, then move the torch over to where the pill is, and it melts. Then turn the water on. Because of this, it's less likely to clog something downstream than the bread method.

There is also the swet-jet plug tool. It's an expanding rubber plug on the end of a foot long tool. You put the tool through a ball valve, shove the plug down the pipe, and seal the pipe up. Solder the valve, pull the tool back through the full-port valve, and close the valve to work on the other side.

Also, there are systems to freeze a plug in the pipe, but this isn't something you should have to resort to.

 

[geotek]

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I think i'll try to cut out the valve on two sides and reheat the new connection and get a new tee and make new connections. I like the idea of the pill to block the trickle of water. Does anyone know if they sell it at Home Depot?

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

You may have to do a search in your area for who carries the brand but here they are.

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat7/dissolvable.php

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If its not leaking, what is there to worry with? I'll bet most of that corrosion is from acid flux and just needs to be cleaned off. I would not worry with it.

Charles

 

[KenC]

What Charles said! I've never seen corrosion on the outside of a fitting cause a problem. Inside, 'nother story.

If the look of it bothers you, just clean it up with a brass bristle brush and chemical of your choice. Lots of things will help remove the stuff and let you see the condition of the underlying metal.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

That metal hanger you have there next to the tee is no good. Steel on copper is a no-no .

As far as the leak, keep an eye on it, but if its not leaking I wouldnt worry about it . Unless it really bothers you , and shuting down the system is no big deal.

It doesnt look like a tough replair if you get the water drained and 100% stopped. All you need is piece of pipe, a repair coupling or 2 if you want , and a new tee .

The jet sweat tool like mentioned about is a great tool, alittle pricey but its realy is easy to use. Just make sure when putting it through the ball valve, test fit to make sure the "jet sweat slides through with out snagging. You need what they call a full port ball valve.

G/luck

 

[Super Scout]

You could fix it if you really want, but I bet it will never give you a problem. It may even last longer than a new fitting. The hole is meant to be there.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

You could fix it if you really want, but I bet it will never give you a problem. It may even last longer than a new fitting. The hole is meant to be there.

What he said.

But if you must replace it MR. Munk. Use some gator bites or shark bites what ever they are called where you buy them. Easy to do no worrying about water in the lines.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

What he said.

But if you must replace it MR. Munk. Use some gator bites or shark bites what ever they are called where you buy them. Easy to do no worrying about water in the lines.

I think the tee he has now will last longer then a shark bite...