Old corded drill restoration?

[camit34]

Found this at the thrift store and wanted to see about doing a restoration on it. It still works great but looks bad. Just want to give it a "looks" restoration I guess but want to check out the insides and make sure it will work for many more years to come.

Any advise will be greatly appreciated since this will be my first. Even some help with model / year identification.

 

[doan]

Looks like all aluminum body. You can clean it up with fine steel wool

OR

Hit it with course sand paper to knock the anodization off, and use finer and finer sandpaper/scotch pads to get the level of shine you want.

I love old metal power tools.

 

[bonneyman]

So long as it runs OK, I'd recommend against opening up the case. Let a sleeping dog lie.
Many times you run into things that require parts that are NLA.

 

[Filson]

So long as it runs OK, I'd recommend against opening up the case. Let a sleeping dog lie.
Many times you run into things that require parts that are NLA.

Agreed.

Shine her up and let her do what she was born to do. If it ever breaks down on you, than go ahead with the full resto.

 

[7th Kahuna]

So long as it runs OK, I'd recommend against opening up the case. Let a sleeping dog lie.
Many times you run into things that require parts that are NLA.

I would disagree with this. While taking everything to pieces is probably more than is required, I would recommend opening it up and doing a quick visual inspection of the wiring and checking the lubrication. I just picked up an old Porter Cable belt sander. Turned out it was in serious need of a new cord and the heavy grease they had used at manufacturing had taken on a consistency of bee's wax. There is no point in buying an old tool if you aren't prepared to do basic maintenance.

I just picked up a similar old Craftsman drill and will be doing the same thing. I don't know that I will even be keeping it but I want to make sure it is safe and prepared for another few years of service.

As far as polishing the body, I have contemplated doing it, think it would look really cool, but have never taken one that far. I will typically remove splattered paint, excess grease, and so forth but that's about it.

Good luck.

 

[7th Kahuna]

I'm not sure how old it is. There is currently one listed on eBay as having been from the 1940's with the serial number 5710. Yours is 5818. I'm not sure I believe that however. Based upon the tag I would think 1960's but that is just a wild guess. The part number, beginning with '315.' identifies it as having been made by Diehl Manufacturing Co. for Sears. The following details were copied from vintagemachinery.org.


Diehl Manufacturing Co. was a maker of electric motors and motor-powered products. They were a supplier of handheld electric drills and bench grinders to Sears, with Sears model-number prefix 315. At some point they became the Diehl Division of Singer Co., for whom Diehl was a longtime motor supplier.

In 1988 the Motor Products Division of Diehl was acquired by Japanese power tool maker Ryobi, Ltd., becoming the basis of Ryobi's new U.S. operations, Ryobi Motor Products Corp.; Ryobi took over supply of products to Sears Craftsman, retaining the 315 manufacturer code.

 

[camit34]

Thanks for the all the info. Much appreciated!

Yeah, saw that one on eBay and really don't think 40's is correct but who knows... Also, that price, really?

Anyway...Thanks again!

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Nevr dull cotton wadding (found with automotive detailing supplies) will put a shine on that aluminum.
I'd open it up and check it out (wiring and lubrication).

 

[DenisG]

If it doesn't have a 3-prong cord, I'd put one on and make sure that the ground is attached inside the body of the drill.

 

[acdeucey]

When I see Craftsman "80" or "100", I think 1950s. Checked the 1956 catalog and then 1955. This is from the '55 catalog:

Note: I guessed that the model number is 7781. If so, this is your drill.

Of course, the drill in the catalog picture doesn't have a hand attached. So, maybe not.

Anyway, your drill is in VERY NICE condition. I have purchased a number of these old all-metal tools and many of them have been incredibly dirty. Yours is pristine in comparison.

Nice find. Good luck with your new drill.

Don

PS: The past two days I have been cleaning up a Skil 825 worm-gear saw I bought on Monday. Holy **** is this thing filthy! Good news is, I'm almost done.

 

[7th Kahuna]

Also, that price, really?

Seriously?

I had to go back and look. Didn't check the price the first time. Mine is 1/3 HP and I picked it up for free. Guess I really scored or maybe he meant $19.50. I would value it at $15, in my neighborhood anyhow.

It will be interesting to see what others have to say about polishing it. I am unfamiliar with Nevr dull cotton wadding.

The problem with polishing it of course, is it increases the likelihood of becoming addicted to collecting old tools. Perhaps it's already too late? It is for me.

 

[Hemlock]

+1 on opening to check. I have a similar drill, it had bad insulation on some internal spots. Next to the switch there was a spot in the cast I only needed to tap for the safety ground. Sorry, I didn't take pictures.

 

[acdeucey]

What I forgot to add...

When I get an old tool like this I clean it. I use Goof Off to clean off the grease build-up. I use Goof Off on a rag for the easy-to-reach parts and a Q-Tip for the nooks and crannies.

Next I use steel wool to polish the tool. I don't go crazy, I just try to brighten it up a bit. And, for a drill, I usually wire-wheel the chuck.

Even if the power cord is good, if it isn't grounded, I put on a new one. Like as has been mentioned, if there isn't a ground terminal in the drill, there's always some place you can "rig" one.

Goof Off works great for old caked-on grease. It works even better for the wood residue that's on old saws. Goof Off takes it off easy-peasy. I've done four saws in the last two months, one of which had over 60 years of **** built up on it. It's lookin' good now.

Oh, and about that Skil 825... That sumbitch uses oil! So, mucho oil residue and 50-plus years of wood stain makes for an adventure. Be glad you've got that drill.

Don

IMPORTANT: Do not use Goof Off on plastic. Do not use Goof Off on painted areas, like, for instance, the ID Tag. Like if you have a cool OLD Craftsman Long-C power tool and hit the label with Goof Off, the label could get "goofed up." Good-bye Long-C. OUCH!

 

[rick carpenter]

An old post by Kirbot at http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91019&highlight=kirbot covers this, but I think he’s long gone from the GJ. BreeStephany has done some impressive restos on Skilsaws at http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245574. If I were you I'd look her work over and maybe she'd answer some questions if you have any.

 

[bareass172]

Do yourself a favor and don't polish aluminum with steel wool. I know that people say to do it and you'll be fine, but in reality you'll embed tiny steel fragments into the aluminum and give it a chance to rust. Not to knock those who recommend this, but I've seen guys do this exact thing with motorcycle parts and ruin them. I use a scotchbrite pad to remove any heavy oxidation or **** on it, and then chase that with Nev-R-Dull wadding (Eagle One product). Nev-R-Dull is incredible at removing stuff that you think won't come off with regular polish.

Nice drill! Always love seeing the oldies come back around.

 

[Bigplum]

Whatever you do to it , make sure you replace the cable and pay attention to the earthing, metal body drills and old cables mix very well .

 

[Fretters]

Whatever you do to it , make sure you replace the cable and pay attention to the earthing, metal body drills and old cables mix very well .

That's what I'd suggest too. As a matter of course I replace the cable, regardless of whether it appears okay or not. Old cable can break down in no end of non obvious ways, and verifying it has a good earth is a must with these tools. I'll merrily use metal bodied tools all day, but only once I know their wiring is up to spec. and safe.

Do yourself a favor and don't polish aluminum with steel wool. I know that people say to do it and you'll be fine, but in reality you'll embed tiny steel fragments into the aluminum and give it a chance to rust. Not to knock those who recommend this, but I've seen guys do this exact thing with motorcycle parts and ruin them.

What he said. It can be awfully disconcerting when you see aluminium apparently rusting. A green, (or whatever colour packs they come in locally), plastic/nylon pan scourer. It won't damage the surface in any way, you won't get particles embedding in the casing and you won't be worrying what part of the internals the fragments of wire wool have made it into. It's amazing just how much is shed when using wire wool. Even on steel, I only use it as a last ditch method for that simple fact. It's good stuff, but the minute fragments of wire go everywhere. Scrub something which is already clean with wire wool over a piece of paper, and you'll see just how bad it is for that when you inspect the paper.

 

[gungatim]

I would definitely take it apart. I have done several old buffers, saws, etc. and invariably the grease in them around the gears, etc. is hardened up. Clean the insides up and use fresh grease, usually add a new grounded cord (computer cords work nice), and blow out/clean up the motor, lots of smelly old dust and bugs usually come out...then buff, buff, buff til you can see yourself in it! My favorite reason to own these old gem's is the nice mirror polish you get over the newer plastic junk!

 

[camit34]

Fantastic advice. Really appreciate all the comments. I'll post up in progress pix and questions as I move through it's restoration.

 

[zcbauer89]

This will be a fun project to keep up with. I would re do all the wiring in the unit, before even using it. Might not be necessary but that's what I would do to insure many years of safe use. Those drills were pretty indestructible. I wonder who made them?