Old Craftman Drill Press Hums on start

[Lbrewer42]

New to the forum - found on google while trying to find out about fixing a floor model drill press. I wanted to get this thing working correctly - finally - after getting it from my Grandfather. Literally since the 70s it has been humming on start and the chuck needs to be spun by hand to make it go.

Pics included of everything below:

Specs: Craftsman - model plate on base reads, "103.24820"

Motor specs:
No ID as to motor manufacturer
Model Number: 5KC45ER573S
HP 1/2
RPM: 1725 (1 is upside down)
V 115
CY: 60
A: 7.7
Code: K BAS3
PC 328K
Rise 70 degrees C CONT
Thermal Protection

Starting cap is hard to read.
Motor Starting Capacitor:
Drill Press Capacitor:
General Electric
35F565AD1
K8792824CD-6
1.5130 (5 is questionable)
16 V(?) AC ?CPS
1886450

I can find NOTHING online about the cap to replace it using the info I have. or motor after hours of searching. The result is this post hoping the forum experts can help.

I did do some browsing before making this thread and found I need to check the internal switch, which I will do hopefully soon. But I still would like to know about which cap to get to replace this one.

Thanks for any help

 

[lafester]

Personally I would get another motor for it but I know someone will chime in with capacitor info. Most of the small HP GE motors I have found have issues while the Craftsman ones seem to go forever. Probably because the GE's were taken from beat appliances back in the day.

 

[FrankLee]

New to the forum - found on google while trying to find out about fixing a floor model drill press. I wanted to get this thing working correctly - finally - after getting it from my Grandfather. Literally since the 70s it has been humming on start and the chuck needs to be spun by hand to make it go.

Pics included of everything below:

Specs: Craftsman - model plate on base reads, "103.24820"

Motor specs:
No ID as to motor manufacturer
Model Number: 5KC45ER573S
HP 1/2
RPM: 1725 (1 is upside down)
V 115
CY: 60
A: 7.7
Code: K BAS3
PC 328K
Rise 70 degrees C CONT
Thermal Protection

Starting cap is hard to read.
Motor Starting Capacitor:
Drill Press Capacitor:
General Electric
35F565AD1
K8792824CD-6
1.5130 (5 is questionable)
16 V(?) AC ?CPS
1886450

I can find NOTHING online about the cap to replace it using the info I have. or motor after hours of searching. The result is this post hoping the forum experts can help.

I did do some browsing before making this thread and found I need to check the internal switch, which I will do hopefully soon. But I still would like to know about which cap to get to replace this one.

Thanks for any help

I've replaced only two start capacitors, so I'm not an expert by any means.

I believe start caps are "sized" by micro-farads, or MFD values and volts, VAC value.

To me, your cap numbers look like 116-130 MFD and 160 VAC.

I recently replaced a sardine can shaped start capacitor on an old Craftsman motor. I called a local motor repair shop who helped me with the replacement specs.
The old capacitor was 124-155 MFD and 125 VAC.
I replaced it with a cylinder shaped NTE Electronics 124-149 MFD, 110/125 VAC capacitor I found on Amazon.

 

[jacked_72]

This one should work. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173458374641

 

[Lbrewer42]

I want to thank all of you for your help on this. Yiou guys are great!

 

[exmaxima1]

Personally I would get another motor for it but I know someone will chime in with capacitor info. Most of the small HP GE motors I have found have issues while the Craftsman ones seem to go forever.

+1
Get a new motor. Not worth fixing an old sleeve bearing motor (I'm guessing) when decent motors abound for less than $40. Plus I am adverse to motors with automatic thermal switches on machinery: they could cutout and restart without notice and are a safety issue.

 

[Lbrewer42]

@exmaxima - No fun in that

I enjoy tearing apart old motors and fixing them. But I appreciate the suggestion.

 

[jdoe213]

+1
Get a new motor. Not worth fixing an old sleeve bearing motor (I'm guessing) when decent motors abound for less than $40. Plus I am adverse to motors with automatic thermal switches on machinery: they could cutout and restart without notice and are a safety issue.

Where can I find a motor for less than $40.00?

 

[1foxracing]

Where can I find a motor for less than $40.00?

Craigslist & Facebook Marketplace, just search "electric motor"
Also search "drill press" & "bench grinder"
I've purchased several old time belt drive bench grinders with nice electric motors for $20 or less.

Here is a brand new Baldor for $30 close to me.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/484183395324629
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44336064_2018392101552324_2203760793458049024_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=d054d97f9051104e80b36de20bc9559d&oe=5C586DC4

 

[exmaxima1]

Here is a brand new Baldor for $30 close to me.

Damn, that is a deal...

1/4hp is kinda small for a drill press, but probably as powerful as a modern Craftsman "Develops 3/4 Horsepower" drill press.

In the Milwaukee area, there are several nice 1/2hp motors for $20 each:

https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/d/electric-motors-2-baldor-1-2/6696199436.html

 

[Cameronl]

Damn, that is a deal...

1/4hp is kinda small for a drill press, but probably as powerful as a modern Craftsman "Develops 3/4 Horsepower" drill press.

In the Milwaukee area, there are several nice 1/2hp motors for $20 each:

https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/d/electric-motors-2-baldor-1-2/6696199436.html

I find that motors are cheaper or even free when they are still attached to table saws people couldn't get rid of. CL is lousy with 80s and 90s era saws that are sold cheap or given away. Keep the motor and give the saws away (or just scrap them if they're nothing special).

 

[lafester]

Better off looking for Craftsman tube lathes. Easy to part out and keep the motor and at least they are the correct rpm.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[bmwrd0]

Replace the cap and that motor is fine. If you have any trouble finding a correct cap or are not sure about it, go to any appliance parts store and they will have what you are looking for. Most AC repair parts places will also have them. With the size of that drill, 1/2 is plenty of HP, and you know that it is sized correctly and the speed is right.

 

[ProGun3400]

Sounds like a capacitor. Not sure where you're (I see home) located but Grainger is another option for a start cap. You can bring it in to your local Grainger branch & they should be able to supply you with a new equivalent?

 

[12vx2]

From the picture of the cap, I would suspect the inertia switch contacts are the likely problem.

 

[12vx2]

My experience has been that unless the cap has visible failure damage, the contacts and switch need cleaning. A non functioning switch has the same symptoms as a bad cap.
Google how to test a capacitor and test it out to verify it is the cap, otherwise you will spend time replacing the cap and have the same issue.
I have repaired and/or many motors that had been thought to have a bad capacitor.
All they needed was to get the switch functioning.