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Old Craftsman hand carry box

yjWrangler

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For sale locally for $45. According to the seller, "Very rare" :rolleyes:

Is this thing worth the $45? Looks pretty cool. I dig it.

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Titanium Steel

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I see these all the time on Ebay these days. For me personally, I think $45 is a bit too high for me, but if you can afford it and want this box, go for it.

But if I was the one buying this tool box, I'd sure be asking a great deal of questions about this tool box, such as the vintage, country of origin and if there is any part of this tool box that is either dented or has any engravings.

However, since I am not the one buying this and ultimately not the one using this, you'll have to ask yourself questions that are relevant to you.
 

Titanium Steel

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YjWrangler: I'd say 1960-1970, based on the images and descriptions I've seen on Ebay. Not sure if these sellers are all telling the truth, but that figure does seem about right.
 

Outlawmws

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The 73 tools catalog has some wood grained tool boxes. If the seller thinks that makes it "rare" he's wrong.. (I saw two of them on the same day, different places, yardsailing a few weeks ago...)
 

geologist

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They show up on ebay from time to time. About 40 shipped, so I think the price has some wiggle room.
 

Stuart in MN

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I'd say 1970s as well, the woodgrain gives it away. It's a decent box but nothing special and certainly not rare.
 

nyrapscalion

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I like it...nice wood grain. My "primary" box is a Craftsman. Although it doesn't have wood grain to it, it was made in 1977, solid as a rock. I was 5 that year...been collecting for a long time. PSYCH! Hand me down from a family member.
I'd pick it up. The junk that sears sells now is a shame. The lid lifting the small top tray is testament to good engineering & forethought. Good buy!
 
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yjWrangler

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Well I went and got it. $40 and the guy threw in a new looking Kobalt impact gun. Smaller box than I expected but oh well.

IMAG0038.jpg


The repaint shall commence soon. Can anybody tell me how to take some of these parts off?

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NUTTSGT

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Neat old box, box and impact for $40, I'd say you did alright.

Those rivets should come out by drilling them from the back side.
 

cj7365

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I wouldn't repaint it, I would roll with it just like it is. but if you do, you can use the old hardware, just re riviot back in place
 

frostys

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That rectangular Craftsman badge is post-1977. I've got a similar box from 1980 or 81 with the same one. Don't know exactly when they went to the next variation.
 

Titanium Steel

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Cj7365: There is a specialized drive size for removing those riviot hard ware out? I've never truly understood how removal of those items had occurred.

But if this box is repainted, you don't want to use a water based primer or paint. I've seen others do this and they end up having to repaint shortly after, especially if the box is in the heat.

An oil based primer and paint is advisable and I think Behr still produces quality American made paint and last I checked I think for a small pail it's $10.
 
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yjWrangler

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But if this box is repainted, you don't want to use a water based primer or paint. I've seen others do this and they end up having to repaint shortly after, especially if the box is in the heat.

An oil based primer and paint is advisable and I think Behr still produces quality American made paint and last I checked I think for a small pail it's $10.

House paint? :headscrat Pass.

I'll be just fine with the repaint, the rivets are all I'm worried about.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Those rivets are driven/hammered over (or whatever you call it) They're not typical pop rivets. I believe they may take a special tool along with a hammer to do. I'd imagine some of the warehouse places like McMaster or Grainger should be able to get them or Ebay. You might even check out Sears parts. While maybe not for that box in persay but they're probably the same as other boxes.
 

Titanium Steel

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YjWrangler: I don't actually own any metal tool boxes, so I am guessing right there.

Nuttsgt: I figured a hammer (likely a dead blow, maybe pauding hammer?) but considering finding live chat on Grainger on a weekend is not possible, so I'll have to wait until Monday to get an answer to what this tool is called.

If anyone knows feel free to provide that information though. Just the name is fine though, as if I were to buy this, it would likely either be from Grainger or Amazon Supply. Maybe Fastenal.
 

luvit

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This isn't the answer you want may want to hear, but i've redone a lot of restoration.
The effort of removing/replacing those rivets may be far greater than a very careful tape-job and using a razor blade on chrome that may have got a little paint on it.
No one would be any wiser.
I;m basing this on the chrome and hardware is looking good in the pics and is not getting re-chromed.
 

pipsters

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I bought that Kobalt impact as my first impact. It's a very good impact, and reasonably strong. It's not cheap junk.
 

Oldndirty

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Got that same box from sears in 1972 but it did not have a craftsman emblem. Finally tossed it this past winter. All rusty,wood grain fell off, one latch not working, but that box had been in the trunk of every car I owned. It made me smile to remember that every tool I owned fit in that box back then and was enough to do most repairs on my cars.
If you paint your box, mask that wood grain real good, any paint or thinners that get under that may lift or wrinkle that vinyl
 
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yjWrangler

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If you paint your box, mask that wood grain real good, any paint or thinners that get under that may lift or wrinkle that vinyl

The drawers are super easy to remove, so if I do paint it, they won't be a problem. The grain on the top isn't in such good shape though. Bummer too, I really like it.
 
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yjWrangler

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This isn't the answer you want may want to hear, but i've redone a lot of restoration.
The effort of removing/replacing those rivets may be far greater than a very careful tape-job and using a razor blade on chrome that may have got a little paint on it.
No one would be any wiser.
I;m basing this on the chrome and hardware is looking good in the pics and is not getting re-chromed.

I was hoping to take them out to make it easier to sand the textured paint off.
 

Outlawmws

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This isn't the answer you want may want to hear, but i've redone a lot of restoration.
The effort of removing/replacing those rivets may be far greater than a very careful tape-job and using a razor blade on chrome that may have got a little paint on it.
No one would be any wiser.
I;m basing this on the chrome and hardware is looking good in the pics and is not getting re-chromed.

This^^^ and mask before sanding and again when ready to paint...

If you are really worried about the sanding, use paint remover.

Basic reason is you are going to have a hard time getting rivets to match AND refitting them installed without damage...
And No neither Lowes nor any other local hardware store is likely to have those...
 

frostys

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Supposedly the rectangular logo was used from 1966-1984 :dunno:

Well, I can only go from my experience. I've got a 65013 box I bought around 1975 with the Crown logo. I read on one of these tool forums that Sears switched to the newer version around 1977.

ETA: Regardless, it's a nice box. I've got a different version of a Craftsman 2-drawer that held all of my tools for quite a long time.
 
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Titanium Steel

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Outlawmws: I actually took the plunge I later now regret a call to Lowes about rivets and I must have talked to the most snakiest person I've talked to since my "fun" journey with McMaster and apparently they thought my phone call was a prank and then told me never to call again. Fine with me, I didn't know asking about rivets would cause such a explosive action though.

I think I'll give Grainger a call about these soon because I know that I'll get an answer.
 

NUTTSGT

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Nuttsgt: I figured a hammer (likely a dead blow, maybe pauding hammer?) but considering finding live chat on Grainger on a weekend is not possible, so I'll have to wait until Monday to get an answer to what this tool is called.

If anyone knows feel free to provide that information though. Just the name is fine though, as if I were to buy this, it would likely either be from Grainger or Amazon Supply. Maybe Fastenal.

For some reason as I read your post, the name rivet setter came to mind. A quick ebay search turned some up. I believe a hammer and rivet setter is what you need for that type of rivet. It's been a long time since high school Industrial Arts class. :beer:
 

Rust

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Is it really worth it to go to all that trouble for a few rivets? :dunno:
You could store Jesus' hammer in there and it will still be a retro craftsman box.
Keep it original. looks fine....and it will be worth more money in "original condition".
 
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Titanium Steel

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For some reason as I read your post, the name rivet setter came to mind. A quick ebay search turned some up. I believe a hammer and rivet setter is what you need for that type of rivet. It's been a long time since high school Industrial Arts class. :beer:


Nuttsgt: Sir, I can't thank you enough for that information. I thought all what was needed was a dead blow and potentially a center punch, but rivet setter sounds about right when I think about it.

If they are sold on Ebay though, that must mean they can be found though. I already own a dead blow (from Wiha) and two other hammers, so that is really cool to know.

My high school's Industrial Art class was smashing soda cans against concrete walls/sidewalk and sometimes against our heads. Not mine, but others did this. Looking back, that was really irrational and not so smart either, but live and learn right?
 

Outlawmws

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Those are different kinds of rivets that a rivet setter is used on. If you look at the back side of the rivets used you will (probably) find that the rivet is a solid head, hollow shank rivet. It takes a special forming tool (not a rivet set) to mushroom the "cylinder" of the hollow section of the rivet.

A rivet set is used with a solid rivet. First to "set" the metal being riveted together (the rivet set has a hole in it to take the solid shank of the rivet), then the conical part of the rivet set is used to mushroom the (typically soft iron) rivet into its matching mushroom shape, once everything is "set" tight together (leaving a gap between the sheets of metal in a riveted joint is bad news).

Here is a pic of the business end of a rivet set, and both solid and hollow shank rivets, (way too small for what you are wanting to be doing, sorry...)

If you look at how snaps are "riveted", that is a lot closer to what you are trying to accomplish.

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Titanium Steel

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Wow, thank you for the pictures, I though a riveter was much smaller and more or less something you could also put into a drill. Really neat picture though.

You certainly shed a great deal of light on this process as well. Really informative and detailed as well.
 

Titanium Steel

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Was on Ebay today and was a very similar tool box that was initially shown and the starting bid price was $5 and I think the closing price (free shipping in this case) was either $10-12 so this item was much cheaper and I think the wood grain was also in pretty good shape as well.

I only looked at this item once to double check, so who know how good the product really was. I will say this though, there is a a whole two pages worth of vintage Craftsman tool boxes that aren't that expensive though. Some of wear and others don't.
 
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