Old Deck Rehash

[D45]

Not sure the age of this deck, since I just moved in 2-1/2 years ago

The boards are slowly popping up, the paint is starting to fall off, and about half of the boards are very soft.......I know the enclosed patio, garage addition, roof and new siding were all done in 1994. I would just assume this deck was also done then

It will definitely work this summer, but I want to start planning my fall project

The deck is 12 x 20

There is an electrical outlet in the corner, which I would like to keep, but most likely replace the box with a better outside grade box, slightly lower to the ground

I would like to remove everything (floorboards, rails, etc) and hope the underside structure is solid

I would really, really like to go with the "composite" boards........is the solid version the way to go or are the hollow boards any good?

 

[D45]

One concern I have: The current deck floorboards are all 2x6, that appear to go under the siding

If and when I go with composite, I will have a LARGE gap from the top of the new composite and the bottom of the siding

How can I compensate or adjust or fix this?

 

[mrpizza]

My dad has the composite ones hollow i think. He had to repaint them after 5 or 6 years i think.

 

[D45]

Painted composite? I guess I need to look at the color warranty

 

[Cyberbear]

What you presently have looks pretty good in the photos, but have you ever considered a concrete slab base with terracotta paver tiles on top. This might just be a permanent solution that would last many years w/o the usual maintenance and up keep for the usual plank type deck. Out on the left coast this is a common thing, even in areas where we have freezing weather.

 

[D45]

The previous owner did a good job in maintaining the deck, it also looks like right before I bought the house, the deck was painted

However, I want no/low maintenance.......this the reason for composite decking

The concrete slab sounds like a good idea, but too costly

I am going to re-do the deck all myself

 

[mrpizza]

You could space out the new composite boards from beneath with some wood stringers of some sort.

 

[mmb617]

I've had both wood and composite decks and will never have wood again. There simply is no comparison.

The newer "capped" composites are guaranteed to retain their color. I've never heard of anybody painting composites, although when they first hit the market years ago there were definitely some problems with color fade.

One concern for you might be the lack of ventilation under the deck. If you check you will find that all the composite manufacturers specify ventilation requirements, and I think you'll have a hard time meeting them.

I used to work for a building materials distributor that sold composite decking (TimberTech and Trex), so I'm pretty familiar with those two at least. There are normally three different levels of product and as in most things the more expensive ones are nicer in a number of ways. Personally I wouldn't use the bottom line, but the middle and top lines are really nice.

 

[Denwood]

Paver stones..or some other engineered stone over a compacted base would be the way to do this. It's low, so no reason for a railing.

I built a low deck using composite (Moistureshield, solid product) last year. Keeping a low deck frame dry and well ventilated to reduce rot (even with pressure treated wood) is a challenge. Looking back, stone would have likely been less effort, less expensive, and much more permanent!

area:

The build goes on for a few pages here and should help with your decision: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263351&page=29

 

[manwithtools]

Paver patio is made for your application. Very little maintenance ever required. It might be a bit more money than composite (if your framing is in good shape and does not need replaced) but it will last virtually forever.

 

[cdestuck]

I did away with my wood and went to vinyl deck boards, Azek. The composite lumber is made with wood fibers and resins. Because of this the composite lumber will still fade. The vinyl does cost more but a great product.

 

[D45]

I never really thought about getting rid of the railings, good suggestion

Some added seating might be beneficial

I guess My concern about the rail delete, is that siding is actually cut around two end sections, so I would have to fill this in with new siding if done

I guess the condition of the under structure will determine how far this project goes......I was hoping for a quick and easy "re-skin"

 

[Kaizen]

every time I feel rich I price out composite and just about choke. if you do get it make sure you get the hidden fasteners.
looks like this is on the front of your house? might feel weird to have no railing. also you have some electrical it looks attached so you'd have to relocate that to the bottom.
I don't think you need the railing as its only a foot high but i'd check with local code. you can just reface. doubt the pt is rotted under it. that 3/4 inch space under the siding is actually better to let the water run. if it were me i'd try and put the first board out from the wall so there is a small gap. sometimes a challenge at the door sill.
i'd be a little concerned about the prep to sell. be prepared for what you might find and have back up plans. example I took out a small entry porch on my house and found solid old school concrete porch under it. talking solid 12x12 round perimeter and 5 inch thick. once I got that all dug out and out of the way I realized there was an old cellar window some idiot put in there behind the poured porch. its a crawlspace with 12 inch headroom so never been in that far. had to concrete that up. fun stuff just don't think it will be a breeze. take up a few boards before hand to see what you have. if its all rotted definitely go the paver route. with the cost of composite you could probably use granite and it would be cheaper lol

 

[Kaizen]

Paver stones..or some other engineered stone over a compacted base would be the way to do this. It's low, so no reason for a railing.

I built a low deck using composite (Moistureshield, solid product) last year. Keeping a low deck frame dry and well ventilated to reduce rot (even with pressure treated wood) is a challenge. Looking back, stone would have likely been less effort, less expensive, and much more permanent!

area:

The build goes on for a few pages here and should help with your decision: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263351&page=29

Den can you please post up just one project you have done that doesn't look fantastic?

 

[Bighead38]

House is begging for a paver patio. I've never been a fan of decks that are close to ground level. Paver patios are usually so expensive because of the labor. I know whenever I give a quote people are always shocked that the labor costs more than material. If you can do the work yourself I would seriously consider putting in a patio. I think you will be surprised with the price. For that size I think the price will be really close between a deck and pavers with the possibility of pavers being cheaper.

It's hard to tell because the pictures are close up but it looks like a different shape or size patio would work well. I know pictures can be deceiving but if you keep the current size I think you could get all materials for a patio for under $4,000 and possibly under $3,000.

 

[WQ59B]

• RE the gap under the siding : rip that dimension off the edges of a composite board and slide it under siding to close gap, cut side down. Might have to tack in place if gap is deep (use SS nails).

• RE where the current railings meet the siding : you could install 1 section of rail at each house wall, kind of like 'partition walls', to create 'corners' to sit the grill, etc, then leave the rest of the deck railing-less. Could also either install an 'outside corner' 2-section of rail where the electric is, or just shorten the outlet on a short post, then plant something on that outside corner to keep anyone from walking over that outlet. Of course, if you are stripping all the decking off, you could move the outlet to either rail section at the house easily. Hope that makes sense.

 

[WQ59B]

I know pictures can be deceiving but if you keep the current size I think you could get all materials for a patio for under $4,000 and possibly under $3,000.

He's got 240 SF. You can get simple 12x12 patio blocks for 4.50ea, with bed material he can be under $1500 in materials.

 

[No Noise Dude]

Back in 2002 or 2003, I completely tore down a cedar screen porch and decking. An absolute not-to-code nightmare of a structure! Previous owner had an area roughly 22-feet wide x 14-deep in which half of the area was screened-in porch, the other half deck. Did away with the rotting cedar and went with composite....TimberTech decking, and never looked back! Maintenance consists of pressure washing the entire deck every two years.

 

[D45]

every time I feel rich I price out composite and just about choke. if you do get it make sure you get the hidden fasteners.
looks like this is on the front of your house?

This is the backyard........the door leads into my enclose patio and then to a sliding glass door, in to the house

The small concrete pad on the left leads to my pool

 

[D45]

The deck on the top of this plan is the "unvcovered" deck in question

 

[D45]

I know pictures can be deceiving but if you keep the current size I think you could get all materials for a patio for under $4,000 and possibly under $3,000.

There is noway I want to, or will, spend a quarter of that price

 

[Mr. Roboto]

There is noway I want to, or will, spend a quarter of that price

....but you think you will build a composite deck with railings for less than 1/4 of that price?

 

[RedVise]

If you have babies, might have babies, your kids might have babies that will be out on the deck, composite has no splinters, doesnt split, ect.

I have 390 sq. ft of Trek deck and 360 sq. ft of what ever the heck Lowes had when I put a deck on the back of the house. The Trek gets full Florida sun in the summer and still looks good after 14 years. No complaints about the Lowes product either.


Brian

 

[bczygan]

You want quick and easy?

Leave everything there and slap a layer of composite or Ipe right over top of what you have, but running perpendicular to the existing deck boards. And kill the railing.

Easy peasy, and good enough for a long while.

Bill

 

[Denwood]

Den can you please post up just one project you have done that doesn't look fantastic?

Kind words There are many fails in the collection!

 

[D45]

Do I "really" need railings?

I would say not, since it is only 12"-ish off the ground

I think removing the rails would be great, and adding in some composite benches would be very nice

 

[D45]

Removing and/or relocating the electrical outlet is not an issue, since I already have two other outlets on the outside wall anyways

 

[Trey T]

I'm not a fan of wooden or plank type deck patio. I think it introduces too many critters under there. I prefer stone paver (or concrete stamp equivalent) as patio. I think paver gives a higher-end look to the home when it's done right.

 

[j p smith]

You need to do your homework, I think you will have a hard time doing a new deck in Trex for less than 1500.00 to 2000.00. Out here just the Trex deck boards would be about 1200.00. A 1"x 5 1/2"x 12' runs 27.47

 

[ludakris04]

I dont suggest the IPE route, I have Cumaru and bought it for the "low maintenance" aspect... I have oiled it much more often than I thought I would, and its gray now.

I did lots of research and chose the Cumaru which was cheaper at the time than Trex or equivilant... and my 10x10 still cost around $2000 in materials...

I also have a stamped concrete patio, 11x20. I paid around $3000 for the patio and I feel it was well worth it, even if it does require some maintenance.

 

[D45]

Plain concrete will cost me $7-$8 per square foot

Custom stamped/colored patio will be $10-$12 per square foot

 

[D45]

$1,680-$1,920 for plain ole concrete

$2,400-$2,880 for stamped and stained

My determination on whether to rip out all the wood and pour a pad, will greatly depend on the deck's substructure (once I tear off the exposed deck boards)

 

[Trey T]

Have you looked into pavers yet? Holland concrete pavers is under $700 for your patio area. I would imagine $1000 total in material and equipment; add $1000 in labor for installation.

 

[D45]

Not yet...... the issue I also have is the landscape area around the deck is raised with deep mulch

 

[D45]

Bumping this up a tad........ I am just going to replace with PT lumber

Going to wait till pool season is done in September and start the project

After looking at costs, quotes, and materials......I am going to tear off the top boards and remove the railing

I plan on inspecting the underneath structure and see how things looks.

By removing the top 2x6 PT boards and then using new PT boards, I won't have to mess with the siding or anything else, just remove and replace

Should be a cheap and easy repair.......just need too find some stain/sealer

I have heard that some deck installers use a green end sealer, that carpenters use to re-seal the end cuts on PT wood?

 

[D45]

I also plan on running the boards the other direction, if possible

This way, there will be no seams over the 20' span and it will look better (I think) running them over the 12' wide section..................yes or no?

 

[Skiff Builder]

Your existing joists are running in the 12' direction. You'd have to do a lot of blocking to run boards in that direction.
A good lumber yard can get you 2x6x20' or 5/4x6x20' treated. No end joints than.
If I ever do another wood deck with 2x6, I will take the time to countersink the s/s screws 3/8". 15 years later I'd take a floor sander to it and resurface for another 15 years of use.

Best to your project.

 

[D45]

Well I will see how the structure looks underneath first, before making any determination on the final plan

 

[D45]

I found this, and not sure what I think of it......quick composite deck resurfacing boards:

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...e-deck-resurfacing-system/p-1444441506174.htm

 

[6768rogues]

I had red cedar and it faded, then I stained it and got tired of staining it every year. It would scratch from chair legs. A few years ago I removed it and put down Azek. It was expensive but worth every cent. There is a special nailer with stainless nails that leaves the finish fastener free. There are also screws with plugs that disappear when installed. If the space at the house is too large for the material, use a table saw and cut a small filler piece to put on top of the deck to make up the difference. Azek comes in 20 foot lengths.
Don't use the crappy composite made from sawdust and recycled plastic. It has organic material in it, meaning it will support mold growth and will deteriorate.