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Old Drill Press

Wingrider72

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Jun 25, 2019
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Southeast TX
A friend of mine was cleaning out his shop the other day and dropped off an old drill press. A little bit rough and has been somewhat jerry rigged in order to function, but seems to operate fairly well. Wondering if anyone can Identify or offer any advice as to whether it's worth cleaning up and salvaging. I have a modern benchtop press that I use regularly, but wouldn't mind spending time and $ on this one....if it's worth the trouble.
 

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exmaxima1

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It’s a Delta DP-600. The table does not look original though, and I can’t make out if it has a functioning lift. I have an early ‘40s version, and in my area it’s worth around $100 (and that’s what paid for it a few years ago).
 

Packard V8

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X2 - That is considered one of the best small shop DPs ever built. Congrats on a true "you ****!" Can't beat free and even delivered. A Delta 17" complete and in good condition will sell for $250 all day long around here.

Unfortunately, yours has the #2MT spindle, which is not as desirable for home shop use as is the JT33 spindle. The JT33s can be found and it's an easy replacement, but they're not as common.

The table does not look original though.
That machine was available with the small table or the larger "production" table. The smaller table can be more convenient for home shop use. It's certainly easier to move.

jack vines
 
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Made in USA

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In a van down by the river
I have a Delta DP 600 of about that era and I agree that is not a Delta table. Also missing the table lift. Great DP; and definitely worth putting in to working order.

If you choose to not renovate it, it can be parted out for decent $$. I could use a few of those parts.

Here's a link to a manual for a press of about that vintage (mid 50's - newer models had power switch mounted on front of headstock)
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5838

Lots more documentation can be found here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3&sort=1&th=false&fl=Drill%20Presses


9587-B.jpg

(not mine)
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
While older equipment may not have the bells and whistles something new might have it doesn't mean that new is better. Older quality equipment was built much better than many of the new stuff today. You would have to pay a lot of money to buy a new drill press that is even close to the quality of that one.

I don't know what isn't working on that one you didn't say.if it is useable try drilling some steel with it and your bench top. Should be some difference.

That is a great score, you should be pleasantly surprised.
 

lafester

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Northern CO
Worth fixing up for sure, or parting out as the table and table lift are missing. Those would be pretty expensive to replace if you want original.
 

JHuston

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Canton, Ohio
Your specific model is probably the 17-210, due to the MT spindle. I own a similar model, and have nothing but good to say about it; it's smooth, accurate and powerful, and it even looks cool. The missing table is a bummer, but if you decide to keep it, look for the T-track production table made for the 1960's 17" Delta- the original table leaves a lot to be desired in terms of holding down work. You will need the table raisning mechanism, because the table is quite heavy.

I know most people want the J33 version of the drill press, but for metal working the M3 spindle is more versatile, letting you run larger bits (a Delta 17" can drill an awfully big hole if you work slow ) and giving you a wider range of drill chucks. I have chucks for mine from 3/8" ( handy for tight quarters) up to a 5/8" and Morse taper drills for anything larger. If the taper and spindle are clean and don't have any dings, that drill press is capable of good accuracy. Your machine has what looks like a Jacobs Super chuck- don't get rid of it, it can be cleaned and regreased. A good replacement chuck will not be cheap, but used ones in good shape for the smaller sizes are fairly common.

I have three of that series of drill press, one for metal, one for wood and one set up with the mortising attachment. I really don't think there's a better drill press of that size made, to be honest.
-James Huston
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
X2 - That is considered one of the best small shop DPs ever built. Congrats on a true "you ****!" Can't beat free and even delivered. A Delta 17" complete and in good condition will sell for $250 all day long around here.

Unfortunately, yours has the #2MT spindle, which is not as desirable for home shop use as is the JT33 spindle. The JT33s can be found and it's an easy replacement, but they're not as common.

That machine was available with the small table or the larger "production" table. The smaller table can be more convenient for home shop use. It's certainly easier to move.

jack vines


The #2MT spindle is way better to have. You can have several chucks that you can swap out easily, you can get MT bit holders and you can also use MT drill bits.
Once you get used to having the MT spindle you will never want to go back
 
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dutchgray

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Yeah I would always have a morse taper spindle over Jacobs taper, got a drill with a Jacobs and its fine, but you can only use what bits you can fit in the chuck.
With a morse taper you can run so much more tooling.
Mt shank drills, counter sinks, reamers, counter bores
Weldon adapter for rota broaches
Mt to hole saw arbor adapter
Tapping heads/chucks
Quick change chuck systems, very handy for when you want to do several operations per hole quickly.
 

Packard V8

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The #2MT spindle is way better to have. You can have several chucks that you can swap out easily, you can get MT bit holders and you can also use MT drill bits.
Once you get used to having the MT spindle you will never want to go back
Your opinion and welcome to it, as I am to mine, speaking from fifty years of using Delta DPs in the home shop.

Thankfully, one is not limited to only one spindle. I have JT33, #2 MT and a couple of other spindles for both the 14" and the 17". I only use the #2MT for 1/2" to 3/4" drilling.

Most home shop drilling in steel is smaller than 1/2". Using a Jacobs chuck with adapter in the #2MT spindle places the point of the drill several inches away from the bearings, increasing runout. The JT33 spindle with chuck is directly under the spindle bearings. If I want a precise hole smaller than 1/2", the JT33 spindle is the go-to in either DP.

Run your DP however you want. I just know what works best for me and why.

jack vines
 

dutchgray

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Your opinion and welcome to it, as I am to mine, speaking from fifty years of using Delta DPs in the home shop.

Thankfully, one is not limited to only one spindle. I have JT33, #2 MT and a couple of other spindles for both the 14" and the 17". I only use the #2MT for 1/2" to 3/4" drilling.

Most home shop drilling in steel is smaller than 1/2". Using a Jacobs chuck with adapter in the #2MT spindle places the point of the drill several inches away from the bearings, increasing runout. The JT33 spindle with chuck is directly under the spindle bearings. If I want a precise hole smaller than 1/2", the JT33 spindle is the go-to in either DP.

Run your DP however you want. I just know what works best for me and why.

jack vines

So you prefer the direct chuck mount but admit you keep a morse spindle about for the work the direct mount can't do, the op stated he had a small modern bench top drill, which is likely to be a direct mount and even if it isn't will be better for smaller work anyway, so the op should keep this floor drill as it is with the MT spindle, get it cleaned up and use it.
 

Packard V8

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As I said, do what works best for you. Years of experience has shown more than 90% of my home shop holes in steel are 1/2" or smaller, making the JT33 better for my use.

In wood, my hole saw collection for holes larger than 1/2" up to 4" have three lobe shanks fitting the Jacobs.

There are certainly 1/2" three-lobe shank drills available in the 1/2"-to-3/4" sizes covered by #2MT. If it's just one hole and if I have a drill in that size, there's no need to switch to the #2MT spindle.

However, there are times the #2MT is nice to have. Over the years, by watching for them at garage sales and machine shop auctions, I've picked a box full of #2 MT for cheap; some in 32nds and 64ths for which I'd probably never buy new in the 1/2" shank. These can be useful if a slightly undersize or oversize hole is desired.

Random bit of OT trivia - I wanted an undersize hole to ream to final fit, and found a long 47/64" #2 MT drill in the box; perfect for what I needed! I changed to the #2MT spindle, installed the drill, set the RPM and it didn't cut worth a darn. Upon examination, it appeared sharp. Closer examination and it was a left-hand drill. What operation requires a 47/64" #2MT left-hand drill?

jack vines
 

larry_g

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oregon
What operation requires a 47/64" #2MT left-hand drill?

jack vines

In years past manufacturing used gang drills. These spindles were geared together so every other spindle turned CCW. This led to the Left handed drill bits.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Packard V8

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In years past manufacturing used gang drills. These spindles were geared together so every other spindle turned CCW. This led to the Left handed drill bits.

lg
no neat sig line

That would explain it. In fifty years up here, I've only seen one gang drill and didn't get to examine it closely enough to learn about the CCW heads.

jack vines
 

ClappedOutBport

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Mar 30, 2016
Messages
998
X2 - That is considered one of the best small shop DPs ever built. Congrats on a true "you ****!" Can't beat free and even delivered. A Delta 17" complete and in good condition will sell for $250 all day long around here.

Unfortunately, yours has the #2MT spindle, which is not as desirable for home shop use as is the JT33 spindle. The JT33s can be found and it's an easy replacement, but they're not as common.

That machine was available with the small table or the larger "production" table. The smaller table can be more convenient for home shop use. It's certainly easier to move.

jack vines

Huh? Alright, whatever floats your boat I guess.

As I said, do what works best for you. Years of experience has shown more than 90% of my home shop holes in steel are 1/2" or smaller, making the JT33 better for my use.

In wood, my hole saw collection for holes larger than 1/2" up to 4" have three lobe shanks fitting the Jacobs.

There are certainly 1/2" three-lobe shank drills available in the 1/2"-to-3/4" sizes covered by #2MT. If it's just one hole and if I have a drill in that size, there's no need to switch to the #2MT spindle.

However, there are times the #2MT is nice to have. Over the years, by watching for them at garage sales and machine shop auctions, I've picked a box full of #2 MT for cheap; some in 32nds and 64ths for which I'd probably never buy new in the 1/2" shank. These can be useful if a slightly undersize or oversize hole is desired.

jack vines

You swap your spindle every time you want to use a mt2? Surely that's worse than living with the additional runout of a mt2? I guess I'm spoiled using a bridgeport for everything precise, and using an mt4 machine for everything morse taper.

Agreed with larry_g regarding the lefties.
 
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