Old Emerson Electric Motor

[Bamacruiser98]

I’m currently breaking down this old Herman Nelson Fan Propelled Unit that hangs from the ceiling. The unit itself was produced in 1930. I plan to restore it. This Emerson motor seems to be seized but I really didn’t put much force on it before I could ask for input. I’d like to keep it if possible so is my best bet just to let it soak with some lube/blaster around the shaft or what? It has a little port with a spring loaded flap on it, that for oil? It looks rough but from what I can see on the inside isn’t that bad. I’m all ears.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

Only one "chemical" to use and it is KROIL penetrant.….. Squirt some around the shaft and anything you may want to remove then let it sit for a day and see what happens.

 

[fitter30]

You would want to pull the motor apart. Just from sitting even with sincer bronze bearings shaft can have micro rust on the shaft and if would have ball bearings they would need to be replaced. Any insulation or between the draft hood will have asbestos. Any wiring be gentle with it. Insulation will fall apart . if there is a temperature sensor with a remote bulb and a thin tube from switch probably will have mercury in it and isn't available. Like any sensors that are mechanical they never quit working from the day they were assembled.

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree with the taking it apart as mentioned above. I would assume the rest of @fitter30 information is probably correct too. even if you get it to turn without taking it apart it should still be taken apart to see the condition of bearings/bushings/brushes etc
It may or may not be repairable but I would venture into it and see what's up inside

 

[FrankLee]

That is the first Emerson direct drive mount I've ever seen.

I agree with the others... take it apart. Sleeve bearing motors should not be difficult.

Emerson motors should have a date code. It may be concealed by the bracket. If that is similar to later Emerson motors, this link may help.

Craftsman Drill Press

DP#151 - Part 8 I refurbished the chuck this morning. This is a Ridgid Supreme chuck, model 6T33C. It was a little sluggish opening and closing, so it definitely needed dismantling. This chuck is very similar to a Jacobs 633C, but the procedure to dismantle is very different. It took several...

www.garagejournal.com

That round plate with machine screws is an interesting feature. It suggests that the end frame was used on both single and double shaft motors.


Please take and post lots of pictures during the restore.

 

[Bamacruiser98]

I’m no expert but I’m guessing this old man is toast unfortunately. I’ve never seen one this bad, how the hell does this happen?

 

[The Cobbler]

no more magic smoke left in that one

 

[FrankLee]

I’m no expert but I’m guessing this old man is toast unfortunately. I’ve never seen one this bad, how the hell does this happen?

Wow. Lack of lubrication? Proximity to the heat?

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like maybe it actually caught fire

 

[Bamacruiser98]

After some reading I think the bearings locked up but it was left on causing it basically burn up. Not the end of the world but I like keeping my pieces original if I can but the cost of having it rebuilt vs buying a replacement is crazy.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

After some reading I think the bearings locked up but it was left on causing it basically burn up. Not the end of the world but I like keeping my pieces original if I can but the cost of having it rebuilt vs buying a replacement is crazy.

Check www.Grainger.com for a replacement………. They probably have one in stock.