Old Floor Jack Identification & Recc’s On Repairing

[300Deluxe]

Hello All,

I have an old floor jack that my dad owned for years and he recently gave it to me. What little bit of research I’ve done it could be an Ausco or Weaver?

The casting number on the bottom of the jack is D-7401-A with a “2” cast below it. The mechanism that the handle attaches to has a number of 2-53879. I’ll attempt to include pics of both.

My dad bought it used many years ago (probably early 80’s). It’s always been blue, and it appears to be the original paint if that helps in identifying a brand.

I’m going to add hydraulic jack fluid to it and bleed it, but one issue I’ve noticed is that the handle doesn’t engage the piston until about halfway down its travel. When working the piston back and forth it appears to be fully retracted, however. Curious if that’s how it’s supposed to work or if there’s something missing that should protrude down to engage the piston sooner. It’s operated like this as long as I can remember. Again I’ll try to include pics.

Lastly, if adding fluid and bleeding doesn’t fix it, what’s a good repair kit to buy? It will currently lift but slowly.

I used to use this jack quite often as a kid. I’d like to get it in good working order to use with my newer jacks.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[Shocker]

Check out these guys - https://www.hcrcnow.com/

They sell rebuild kits for any jack over there. They are super knowledgeable and would know what jack that is.

I think that is a US Jack or Ausco. The D-7401A is a Ausco part number - https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/3191

 

[300Deluxe]

Thanks Shocker.

In somewhat of an update, after tinkering with the jack today I noticed a spot on the floor below it. It appears as I was moving the handle up and down to depress the piston several times it may have forced some fluid from the u-joint that the handle rotates.

 

[paulsomlo]

Most jacks tend to engage low on the stroke - you may have some wear on the bore of the roller that contacts the pump piston, but probably not enough to make a large difference.

There should be an oring inside the release valve - it's probably hard and brittle. The slow pumping, if not cured by fluid and bleeding, would point to either the pump piston oring or the ram cup, and maybe both.

You need about $5 worth of parts - call Hydraulic Parts Supply in Sawyer KS at (620) 594-2247.

 

[300Deluxe]

Thank you paulsomlo!

 

[Speed-Racer]

Most jacks tend to engage low on the stroke - you may have some wear on the bore of the roller that contacts the pump piston, but probably not enough to make a large difference.

There should be an oring inside the release valve - it's probably hard and brittle. The slow pumping, if not cured by fluid and bleeding, would point to either the pump piston oring or the ram cup, and maybe both.

You need about $5 worth of parts - call Hydraulic Parts Supply in Sawyer KS at (620) 594-2247.

Also recommend Hydraulic parts supply. No website, you have to call them!

 

[mikedodge]

That piston looks like it should be up a lot higher then that. There might also be a seal on it that's bad and making it harder to move or a spring inside that's worn out.

 

[paulsomlo]

That piston looks like it should be up a lot higher then that. There might also be a seal on it that's bad and making it harder to move or a spring inside that's worn out.

Now that you mention it, yeah, the spring cover looks bent up - I wonder if that's keeping the spring from fully extending.

 

[300Deluxe]

Thanks for the insight guys. Would Hydraulic Parts Supply have the necessary hardware (springs, balls, etc.) in addition to the seals?

 

[paulsomlo]

Thanks for the insight guys. Would Hydraulic Parts Supply have the necessary hardware (springs, balls, etc.) in addition to the seals?

They might - but I don't think you'll need to replace any balls, or even springs. First step, really, is to get inside the hydraulics and see what's going on. Remove the main ram, remove the pump piston, and remove the release valve, then you can inspect the seals.

 

[300Deluxe]

I appreciate all of the info here. It’s stupid cold in TN right now and I don’t have a heated shop so I haven’t been able to tinker with the jack much.

I did, however, get it up on a bench and look at how I’m going to remove the release valve u-joint, since it’s the only obvious leak at this point.

The “handle socket” (the thing the handle inserts in) is held in place by hinges that are secured by pins, or “hinge retainer rivets” according to an exploded view I found of a very similar Ausco jack. Unlike newer jacks, this is how it’s secured. I assume I can knock the pins out with a punch and perhaps reuse them. I actually hammered on a punch today and moved one of the pins a bit, but I need to wait until a warmer day and use penetrant before-hand. But… once the pins are out I’m not sure how to knock out the hinges. Not a lot of room to get anything by the u-joint to knock them outward. See pics below pointing out the pins, or rivets, and the pic showing the direction the hinges, or shafts need to come out.

I’m also curious about the release valve u-joint. I assume once the handle socket comes off it will simply unscrew to allow me to replace the o-ring. Additionally, there is a lot of play in the joint. Curious if these are even still available.



Lastly, the return spring for the lifting arm has come off the “post” on the ram, probably because of a rock getting wedged in there from a driveway at some point. The spring isn’t broken, it’s just off the ram. With the lifting arm all the way down, it only needs to be stretched about 1/2” to be reattached. Unfortunately it’s tight quarters and a screwdriver doesn’t help enough to reinstall. I feel like if I had a drum brake spring tool I could probably hook it to pull it. I’m pointing at the spring with a screwdriver below.



If the weather was more favorable I’d give the jack a good washing. The exploded view I found of a similar Ausco 1-1/2 ton jack isn’t exactly the same. The fill plug on mine is on the ram reservoir, and mine doesn’t have a safety valve. I may need to rob one of the kids’ medicine dropper/syringes to fill with fluid (and never bring it back in the house.)

 

[paulsomlo]

You should be able to remove the small pins with a pin punch. The larger ones that enable the yoke to pivot in the frame may be fairly loose - try using a magnet and if that fails, maybe just a right angle pick from the inside to get them moving. It may end up being easier to remove the hydraulic unit from the frame.

Yes, a hook tool will get the spring reattached. And the u-joints do loosen over time, but it's not exactly a precision fit anyway.

It's -9 deg F in Denver right now.

 

[300Deluxe]

@paulsomlo Thank you! I’ll update when I have an opportunity to fool with it again. We’re in single digits currently which is uncommon in TN.