Yes. Insert the RED lead into the 10amp socket. Be aware that the max testing is for 10amp or below.to measure amps do I insert the red lead into the 10A fused and keep the black lead where shown.
DCNo you would need a amp clamp, is the circuit DC or AC voltage?
Yikes $800 for the Fluke 289.I have one of those.
Decent meter. Not great. Not horrible.
I would recommend Fluke 289
I you look at new meters make sure they state they read DC current, most will not.
That sounds like a great idea! What manufacturer makes those fused leads? I've never seen one.Fluke is a good meter.
For amp testing with that type of meter I use a lead with a 7.5 amp fuse holder in it much easier and cheaper to change that then the one inside the meter.
Home made with a inline fuse holder crimped into a cheap lead.That sounds like a great idea! What manufacturer makes those fused leads? I've never seen one.
It may COST that much, but it’s WORTH far more. It’s a bargain at $800.Yikes $800 for the Fluke 289.
With the resolution of the Fluke 77, you can only read to the nearest amp. You'll need another decimal place right of the decimal point to read tenths--like comparing draws across the windings of 3-phase motors.An AC/DC current transducer can be added to your 77 to take that reading through the mV/V side, but they are pricey and one really needs to be aware of the pros, cons, and how-to's of using it.
I used a 77 Series II for several years before upgrading. Very durable and reliable.
Thanks for the description. I have an inexpensive test lead set that would be a good candidate for modification. Does your inline holder use the automotive tubular glass-bodied fuses? Or, the newer flat blade type?Home made with a inline fuse holder crimped into a cheap lead.
Flat blade, easier to find these days.Thanks for the description. I have an inexpensive test lead set that would be a good candidate for modification. Does your inline holder use the automotive tubular glass-bodied fuses? Or, the newer flat blade type?